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Whirlpool Refrigerator Stopped Working


rpasetto
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We discovered the Whirlpool Reefer in the coach was at 70F in both compartments last night.  Seems it just suddenly stopped working.  It seems to be the OEM model (gs2shexns00).   Just now looking over the various diagnostic steps for what could be wrong; some parts, like the Condenser fan, require getting to the back of the refrigerator and I have no idea how to move it out of the cabinet.  THere doesn't seem to be anything bolting it to the floor.  

 

Suggestions will be appreciated.

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Does it still have power to the fridge and the internal lights still light up?

Unless some member here has the same fridge setup as it came from the factory and sees your post I would also check over on iRV2.com for some guidance and direction on how to unfasten the fridge from its resting place.

Here is one thread from iRV2.com where one person states how it could be secured and removed.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/whirlpool-fridge-removal-for-repair-481337.html

Edited by Dr4Film
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1 hour ago, rpasetto said:

We discovered the Whirlpool Reefer in the coach was at 70F in both compartments last night.  Seems it just suddenly stopped working.  It seems to be the OEM model (gs2shexns00).   Just now looking over the various diagnostic steps for what could be wrong; some parts, like the Condenser fan, require getting to the back of the refrigerator and I have no idea how to move it out of the cabinet.  THere doesn't seem to be anything bolting it to the floor.  

 

Suggestions will be appreciated.

Hi Rick, I had to replace a leaking water valve on my Whirlpool and thought I’d never get the refrigerator out of the cabinet. It was not bolted to the floor at all. It was secured at the top by the cabinet trim piece and a metal flange. It was VERY hard to get out of the cabinet because it had fiberglass insulation wedged on each side making it extremely tight. I had to have someone push from the back while I pulled from the front.

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45 minutes ago, Mocephus said:

Hi Rick, I had to replace a leaking water valve on my Whirlpool and thought I’d never get the refrigerator out of the cabinet. It was not bolted to the floor at all. It was secured at the top by the cabinet trim piece and a metal flange. It was VERY hard to get out of the cabinet because it had fiberglass insulation wedged on each side making it extremely tight. I had to have someone push from the back while I pulled from the front.

Thanks for the info on removal.  Hopefully I won't have to do that.  I removed the outside access panel and found loose fiberglass behind the refrigerator and some dropping down towards the coil area below.  Underneath was extremely dusty; I did a first pass vacuuming underneath; went to take a break as I write this now.  Plugged the reefer in and it looks likes it's started cooling.  there's a lot of dust (probably some fiberglass shreds too) underneath which I will go back to removing with a refrigerator coil brush I now have and more vacuuming.  I will eventually make a semi rigid foam block to secure the reefer compartment.  [No way will I put loose fill fiberglass back in there.]

So if it works reliably after all the airflow blocking dust is removed, I may not need to pull it out to test components in the rear.  It looks like the evaporator fan & motor are accessible from inside the freezer compartment but repair to Condenser fan, motor capacitor and other parts require rear access.

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Part of the routine maintenance for residential fridges no matter whether they are in a stick&brick house or a motorcoach is to vacuum the bottom of the fridge area both front and rear especially the coil area every few months to remove dust, hair and debris that prevents the flow of air over the coils and motor area.

In a house usually the fridge can be easily rolled out to clean but in a motorcoach  that's not possible.

I purchased a special tool that goes onto our vacuum that reaches all the way to the back and sides of the fridge from the front. I also remove the old outside vent cover and the rear access fridge cover to vacuum back there too.

https://www.ezvacuum.com/flexible-crevice-tool-for-all-vacuum-hoses-36-p-6452.html

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2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Part of the routine maintenance for residential fridges no matter whether they are in a stick&brick house or a motorcoach is to vacuum the bottom of the fridge area both front and rear especially the coil area every few months to remove dust, hair and debris that prevents the flow of air over the coils and motor area.

In a house usually the fridge can be easily rolled out to clean but in a motorcoach  that's not possible.

I purchased a special tool that goes onto our vacuum that reaches all the way to the back and sides of the fridge from the front. I also remove the old outside vent cover and the rear access fridge cover to vacuum back there too.

https://www.ezvacuum.com/flexible-crevice-tool-for-all-vacuum-hoses-36-p-6452.html

Thank you.  Funny you should mention that, Richard.  A few hours ago my wife found a similar crevice tool and I ordered it.

Earlier today, I went out to the coach and removed the refrig. bottom panel to find an unbelievable mat of dust covering the coils underneath.  My bad, I should have done this when I bought the coach last year.  

As @Moecephus reported about his, the refrigerator is packed in fiberglass mat at the sides.   Much of the "dust" I removed from the coils was likely bits of fiberglass.  I removed most from the rear at the outside access panel,  It will be replaced with a sheet of semi-rigid insulation just to seal the coach inside ... If I ever need to pull the refrigerator out that fiberglass batting will go too.  Surprised to find it there.  Given that both our coaches have the same... it seems like it was there from the factory;  yet most refrigerator mfgrs specify an inch or so of airspace at sides and top of reefer.    Oh well, live and learn.

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43 minutes ago, rpasetto said:

If I ever need to pull the refrigerator out that fiberglass batting will go too.  Surprised to find it there.  Given that both our coaches have the same... it seems like it was there from the factory;  yet most refrigerator mfgrs specify an inch or so of airspace at sides and top of reefer.    Oh well, live and learn.

I am surprised that it was there also as the fridge needs to ventilate on the sides top and bottom. Maybe it was prepped for a NotSoCold RV Type fridge and they just slipped the residential into the same place without removing the insulation. That would be typical of the Monaco assembly tech's.

Edited by Dr4Film
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