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Trailer Plug


Georgia Mike

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I have owned my Dynasty for a little over a month and so far I have replaced skylight due to leak, replaced electronic fan control with wax valve(still not working right) trying to fix front driver side leaking down in an hour, Jake bake stuck on (can’t disengage it) installed 100watt solar system because batteries kept draining down to fast, going to order Amish cooling unit for Norcold that has very rusted pipes and now trying to get this wire harness plug to work. With a test light all I get constant power on one spade and the running lights on another. No left and right turn signal and no brake lights. The tail lights on the. bus work fine just the plug has the problems. The bus has a brake controller installed and it looks like a 3 wire harness is spliced into the plug harness just in back of the plug. Is there a separate fuse for just the plug harness? I have looked in both front and rear run bays and can’t find anything labeled that has anything to do with it. I am leaving in a week on a trip and want to get this fixed before I go any help would be appreciated 

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Mornin mike, so im not familure with the style coach, 1st on the back of your coach does it have amber colored turn signils? If it does then it needs a “converter” which should be between the wires from the coach wiring to the trailer plug, it is a little black box with 5 or 6 wires on one side with 4 coming out the other which is going to the trailer plug. You will need to test the power going into the converter. When testing there will be LT, RT, Brake, Ground, (and some have a battery wire which will be hot all the time) and posably a tail light wire, some converters dont use a battery hot wire though. The pic is a non-battery power style, If your coach only has red lights at the back and NO amber then its possable it is using a “trailer tow” system, which means the trailer lights have there own fuses for all the lights going to the trailer. The reasoning is when a trailer has a short if it was wired directly to the lighs on the back it would short out the lights on the coach. So you may need to check your owners manual as to where that fuse shall be (usually in one of the fuse boxes) and if you dont have a owners manual then perhaps someone on this site does an can share that with you.

67F6352E-545F-4D3E-A42D-71AE279BB6D5.thumb.jpeg.283ed113a3e9291fb903568fb9d500f0.jpeg

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Mike, I'm sure there is a file of electrical schematics on this site that is comparable to your coach. Print a copy and keep it with the coach at all times. Also,  invest in a good Fluke multimeter.  It will save you in the long run. I haven't had my coach too long and I've had some of the same problems. Just take one thing at a time and usually the problems you'll have will be a quick simple fix. Look at the wiring and see if there has been a splice somewhere close to the plug. A bad splice can corrode overtime and lose voltage. Sometimes those plugs go bad too, check the voltage before the plug. 

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Ok Mike so one thing to look for are connectors like these, some are red but most are blue. Over the years me an mostly anyone who has had to deal with the electrical gremlins have discovered these were the worst thing in the market of electrical wiring!!! If your trailer plug wiring has any of these GET RID OF THEM! 
They create more problems than they solve, check the wire going into them to see if theres power.54299449-921E-43E9-BA59-CBF2AD2EE994.thumb.jpeg.ce98e5a26b822000c50135cb33810168.jpeg

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22 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

I have owned my Dynasty for a little over a month and so far I have replaced skylight due to leak, replaced electronic fan control with wax valve(still not working right) trying to fix front driver side leaking down in an hour, Jake bake stuck on (can’t disengage it) installed 100watt solar system because batteries kept draining down to fast, going to order Amish cooling unit for Norcold that has very rusted pipes and now trying to get this wire harness plug to work. With a test light all I get constant power on one spade and the running lights on another. No left and right turn signal and no brake lights. The tail lights on the. bus work fine just the plug has the problems. The bus has a brake controller installed and it looks like a 3 wire harness is spliced into the plug harness just in back of the plug. Is there a separate fuse for just the plug harness? I have looked in both front and rear run bays and can’t find anything labeled that has anything to do with it. I am leaving in a week on a trip and want to get this fixed before I go any help would be appreciated 

The wax valve. It’s very seldom you have a problem. You did drill a hole and weld the weld nut to the stack and screw the wax valve into it, correct.? If not , there is a good how to video on you tube.

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Thanks Woody, yes it is welded on correctly. I have been talking with Scott at Source and he told me to take out the restrictor valve first to see if that helps. I have another thread in cooling systems that explains the problem im having with it. next step would be to check the allen screw and make sure its backed out 4 3/4 turns. 

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I checked the trailer plug yesterday a little more and didnt find any bad splices. I found the 2006 schematics and found a tow marker relay and the rear run bay. I am wondering if that relay might be bad and causing some of wires to be dead. looking at the schematics i cant seem to find where the fuses are for the trailer plug turn signals and brake lights. My next step is put a wire tracer(toner) that i have from working at the phone company to try and find out where these dead wires at the plug go. I only have next week to figure this out because im leaving next Sunday on a trip.  

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On my '07 Beaver built 09/06 there are fuses in the RRB I've blown more than once accidentally grounding as I connect the toad (so now I make the last connection at the coach rather than having the umbilical hot as I feed it along the tow bar to the toad and the running lights were hot.)

I'd also think carefully about running a brake controller from the tail lights especially if you like using the engine brake.  Others may have differing opinions but when I'm going down a long grade with engine brake on (and my taillights are on) I'd rather not heat up the toad brakes until I actually press the service brake.

Edited by amphi_sc
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Update….. well I fixed my trailer plug. I hooked up my tracer to two of the spades in the plug that where open and found about 3 feet into the large wire loom a plug that had been pulled apart. Strange as to why it was there and why it was unplugged but glad I found it. Now on to the next thing in the never ending list.

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  • 1 month later...

After reading this thread, I just knew I could find my plug.  No dice.  I took the panel at left knee out and searched, nothing.  Pulled the shifter panel out just to make sure.  Nothing.  Removed the trim pieces around steering column, nothing.  Removed the instrument panel, dug through all of those wires, nothing.  I spent 3 or 4 hours digging for nothing.  I am going to try a tic tracer or cable tracker for one last hurrah and if that doesn't get it, I am going to just run a two pair to the rear and go with that, I am over it.  Really frustrating that Monaco didn't take the extra minute or two that it would have taken to mark this one harness that would commonly be used by owners.

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The assembly line is a entrant job at the old Monaco assembly lines.  The new techs would work until a higher paying job becomes open such as in the service centers.

So the high turn around of techs leaves little job experience on the lines.  The wiring harness was assembled on a wire loom ordered to a specific coach.  So no consistency from coach to coach.  

Each stop on the assembly line was a timed stop.  When the buzzer sounded the coach would be moved to the next position.  Any work Not Completed was left undone.  What you see is what you get.  

Chuck B 2004 Windsor

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On 4/8/2022 at 10:18 AM, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

The assembly line is a entrant job at the old Monaco assembly lines.  The new techs would work until a higher paying job becomes open such as in the service centers.

So the high turn around of techs leaves little job experience on the lines.  The wiring harness was assembled on a wire loom ordered to a specific coach.  So no consistency from coach to coach.  

Each stop on the assembly line was a timed stop.  When the buzzer sounded the coach would be moved to the next position.  Any work Not Completed was left undone.  What you see is what you get.  

Chuck B 2004 Windsor

I could never work like that.
If I can't do it RIGHT, I'm just not going to do it. 👀

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IF you ever visited the Monaco service center on Hively in Elkhart, you know it made a statement for the necessity for correcting POST assembly omissions and errors. 

I would never purchase a Monaco product again. SOB will/may have comporable issues. My $$$ my choice. 

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