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Air horn,radio and more!


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One thing leads to another! As I had posted a few months ago my air horn stopped working. I did the test of the controller and it failed. They were out of stock so I bought a small horn button and will wire it to the air solenoid. I did some testing and there are 2 white wires connected to the solenoid. One tests as a ground the other is dead. I applied 12 volts to one of the solenoid terminals and nothing happened. Suddenly I realized that the unit has been sitting in my shop for months and there is no air!! Dummy!! I started the engine and was waiting for the air to build. I noticed that the radio and the monitor for the camera and Alladin were dead. I checked all the fuses in the front run bay. None were blown. I removed the dash cover and there were no other fuses. I pulled the upholstered panel by the driver's sat. I would have to get in there anyway to run a wire to the front run bay and then to the air solenoid. Monaco sometimes likes to hide fuses. Nothing. . I was through for the day but hooked up the wires to the air solenoid anyway. Went inside and the radio lit up!! Monitor is working. Somehow the ground to the the radio and monitor must be hooked up to that solenoid. I am stumped. That cannot be right! Any ideas??

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Is your salesman switch working?
 

In my 2000 Dynasty- I have two continuous relays attached to the salesman switch - one goes to my 12v fuse box for the interior. The other goes up front to a fuse box that runs the front fans and a lot of other stuff. I had that relay die on me a while back. 
 

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I have given up on repairing the controller or the  wiring. I understand that the horn button applies a aground when pressed. This must send a signal to the controller to send 12V to the  air solenoid. I am waiting to hear  if the mfr. has that model in stock.  One dealer had it but it was almost $350.00. I wonder if a newer version of that controller would work? I am trying to find a way to run a wire from a small horn button to either the front run bay or to the area behind the dash. So far no luck. I removed the upholstery panel under the driver armrest. There are wires covered with black foam. But that does not get you into the front run bay. I am becomnig frustrated and that is never good! Rocketman: Thanks but this has nothing to do with the salesman switch. I finally got the radio and monitor to work by turning off all power for an hour. I guess something had to reset. But the horn does not work.

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I just got off the phone with VIP. No chips for any of their products. No ship date for the chips. She said ti could be a year or more. They are looking for an alternate supplier but so far nothing. I think the controller may be repairable. I have a small horn switch that would work if I could figure out how to run the wires. Any help appreciated.

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Bruce - Because you mentioned a smartwheel control box, I'll assume you have a conventional and not a chassis multiplex coach.

See page 7 in the attached file.  If you ground pin 3 of connector P2 on the smartwheel control module, it should activate the air horn relay.  Try with a jumper from P2 pin 3 to ground and see if the air horn relay works.  It should then be an easy install for a remote switch to ground.

 

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Posted (edited)

Correction. If I remove the ground it keeps honking until you remove the fuse on the F8 Board. Strange. About 6 years ago the horn started to honk in the middle of the night. I went outside with a flashlight and re move the fuse. next morning all was good. I have had problems before in the front run bay. The bay was subject to water intrusion. I fixed that many years ago and all has been OK since. I wonder if that f8 board is  faulty?

Edited by birdshill123
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The wire from P2 pin 3 goes to a relay that you should be able to see with the generator door open.  Either cut the wire going to the smart wheel module or unplug this wire from the air horn relay and connect a wire to ground with a switch on your dash to work the air horn.

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Thanks Frank. There is no relay in the front area.  My new  horn switch has very light wires so I will put a bosch relay in the front run bay and run the hot to the air solenoid. I tried just putting 12 volts to that solenoid and it works. I think that relay is on my board 8 and it may be faulty. I think it is soldered.. I really appreciate your help. I still do not know what is wrong. One day when I have time I will go through the diagnostic again. I may take the controller to  a guy that does electronic repairs. he is very inexpensive. I do not think it is that complicated for him. I tried to remove board 8 to see if anything on the back showed a problem but I could not remove that  board. Something is holding it from behind. I did not  feel like undoing the boards  surrounding that #8. I wish I could run a ground from the existing steering wheel horn switch. Or pick up the ground from that horn relay in the front run bay. 

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13 hours ago, birdshill123 said:

Thanks Frank. There is no relay in the front area.  My new  horn switch has very light wires so I will put a bosch relay in the front run bay and run the hot to the air solenoid. I tried just putting 12 volts to that solenoid and it works. I think that relay is on my board 8 and it may be faulty. I think it is soldered.. I really appreciate your help. I still do not know what is wrong. One day when I have time I will go through the diagnostic again. I may take the controller to  a guy that does electronic repairs. he is very inexpensive. I do not think it is that complicated for him. I tried to remove board 8 to see if anything on the back showed a problem but I could not remove that  board. Something is holding it from behind. I did not  feel like undoing the boards  surrounding that #8. I wish I could run a ground from the existing steering wheel horn switch. Or pick up the ground from that horn relay in the front run bay. 

Yes, the horn relay is located on board 8 in the FRB.  The horn is tied into the smart wheel data code like the wheel keypads and you would need to rewire if you want to use the horn pad on the wheel.  Also, the clock spring may or may not be able to handle a relay current.

Likely FRB #8 J2 pin 1 connects to the smart wheel P2 pin 3.  If that's the case, if you want to have a switch to work your horn, either add a separate relay like you mentioned or cut the wire #3 on smart wheel P2 and connect to a switch going to ground to operate the horn relay on FRB board #8.

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I did not read though all of the replies on this so it may have been covered...

It sounds like you are describing exactly what I dealt with.

Had lost air horn, radio, electric windshield shades, etc.

Fixed by replacing the house continuous duty solenoid for the house. There are two of them in the passenger side rear electrical bay. Turns out one of them was corroded internally and would work at times but acted liked a bad ground.

Hope this helps.

BW

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  • 2 weeks later...

 I have wired in a temporary horn button. It has nothing to do with  any solenoids . But thanks. When the controller is available I will just buy a new one. There are a few used units available but none come with any warranty. Pig in a poke. Could be a long time for anyone waiting for electronic parts. Was bad enough before but now Shanghai is shut down. The Ford factory here in Mexico has 15,000 cars parked waiting for " chips". M & M can fix it but quite costly. I may take it to an electronic tech that works from home.

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