DC-DC Charger and Breaker Mounting Location Question - Battery Bay?

[Bjohnsonmn]

I am in the process of choosing a mounting location for our Victron isolated DC-DC charger for our 2000 Windsor. The battery bay is a large box with only a 5" diameter hole in the bottom for ventilation. It is not an insulated bay.

Originally, it had two drawers with one on top of the other. The bottom holding the engine battery (8D 12v) and the house battery bank (6x6v GC). The 6v are being replaced with LiFePO4 batteries being placed elsewhere in the coach leaving a large space above the engine battery.

The DC-DC charger includes a small breaker box for both + sides of the connections.

The question is: Can I mount the breaker box and charger in the same space as the engine battery, or is that an explosion hazard? The space is aproximately 28-32" tall, 28"ish deep, and 28"ish wide. The chassis battery sits at the bottom. There is the large 5" hole in the bottom and the 2x 3" grommets where the battery cables enter and leave the bay.

Any experience with this is appreciated!

(I have the drawers disassembled and getting the entire bay ready for rust converter and new high-heat paint.)

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[Mark B]

Bjohnsonmn here is how my charger and battery lay out came out. 400  amphrs in the lower tray.

[Bjohnsonmn]

5 minutes ago, Mark B said:

Bjohnsonmn here is how my charger and battery lay out came out. 400  amphrs in the lower tray.

Looks Great! Where is your inverter and which one do you have?

[Rocketman3]

I will also be mounting my Dc-Dc charger where the battery isolator went. 

[Mark B]

46 minutes ago, Bjohnsonmn said:

Looks Great! Where is your inverter and which one do you have?

Zantrex Freedom SW3012, mounted inside behind the cord real and water heater. My solar controller, transfer switch and auto gen start are in there too.

I would do some things differently if I had to do it again. I would have used a Victron multi plus II (not out yet when I installed) and maybe cheaper batteries, even though I got the Battleborn on sale. I also have 700 watts of solar and a residential refrigerator. It's been worth the upgrades IMO.

[Tom Wallis]

If you put it in the battery compartment it may or may not present an explosion problem, probably not. What you may end up having is a corrosion problem. You don't want your expensive electronics looking like your battery trays do.

[johncvandoren@gmail.com]

20 hours ago, Mark B said:

Zantrex Freedom SW3012, mounted inside behind the cord real and water heater. My solar controller, transfer switch and auto gen start are in there too.

I would do some things differently if I had to do it again. I would have used a Victron multi plus II (not out yet when I installed) and maybe cheaper batteries, even though I got the Battleborn on sale. I also have 700 watts of solar and a residential refrigerator. It's been worth the upgrades IMO.

Please tell us what make & model of AGS you have, and how it connects to the generator.  I have the Victron Multiplus with “AGS built in”, but it cannot work with Onan generators.

[Mark B]

Just now, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

Please tell us what make & model of AGS you have, and how it connects to the generator.  I have the Victron Multiplus with “AGS built in”, but it cannot work with Onan generators.

The Xantrex Automatic Generator Start - 809-0915 replaced the built in unit of my old RV2012. It was a direct replacement for the existing system. It works over the Xanbus network and has multiple I/O and starts and stops my Onan 7500. It is programed and controlled using the Xantrex Xanbus System Control Panel (SCP) Freedom SW3012 - 809-0921. I just mounted it under my transfer switch because that's where the wires to the generator were located. Not sure if that helps with your issue with the Victron.

[Ivan K]

Magnum makes a standalone AGS unit that should work regardless of inverter type. I have one that you could try to see if you like it, temp and voltage settable. I think 'AZ Expert' installed one on YouTube. 

[CAT Stephen]

Your DC to DC Charger must be rated as "Explosion Proof" or "Ignition protected" to be present in your battery compartment that contains any SLA starting and/or SLA or LA house batteries.  It it is a Renogy branded DC-DC charger, these chargers are not ignition protected.

Edited May 3, 2022 by CAT Stephen

[RoadTripper2084]

I had the same issue as you and ended up mounting my Renogy 60A DC-DC vertically orientated in the rear electrical panel. I had to remove the original diode battery isolator, chassis battery maintainer, and battery Boost solenoid in order to make room for it. 

Connections were simple in the rear panel everything you need is right there, and the diode isolator and boost solenoid were failing anyway so no loss. I have booster cables that I can use if I want to temporarily boost the batteries, or get a boost from another vehicle.

I also re-wired the factory solar panel to maintain the chassis battery instead of the house, not sure that is doing much though but the idea is solid, never worry about the chassis battery running low while parked again (in summer, at least).

 

[Bjohnsonmn]

3 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

I had the same issue as you and ended up mounting my Renogy 60A DC-DC vertically orientated in the rear electrical panel. I had to remove the original diode battery isolator, chassis battery maintainer, and battery Boost solenoid in order to make room for it. 

Connections were simple in the rear panel everything you need is right there, and the diode isolator and boost solenoid were failing anyway so no loss. I have booster cables that I can use if I want to temporarily boost the batteries or get a boost from another vehicle.

I also re-wired the factory solar panel to maintain the chassis battery instead of the house, not sure that is doing much though, but the idea is solid, never worry about the chassis battery running low while parked again (in summer, at least).

 

How is the heat in that bay? Someone had said that the Victron DC-DC chargers get real hot, though I am wondering how hot is real hot and if they measured it or just "heard through the grape vine" that they get real hot. I suppose the other option is to cut in a vent into the RRB.

 

[RoadTripper2084]

13 minutes ago, Bjohnsonmn said:

How is the heat in that bay? Someone had said that the Victron DC-DC chargers get real hot, though I am wondering how hot is real hot and if they measured it or just "heard through the grape vine" that they get real hot. I suppose the other option is to cut in a vent into the RRB.

 

Well the RRB has a vent port in the bottom right corner and top left corner, so I assume it will vent alright. Also the exhaust fans on the Renogy are at top of the device, so should be pulling cooler air from the bottom vent and exhausting toward the top vent. Though I haven't measured the temps at all.

Edited May 4, 2022 by RoadTripper2084

[Bjohnsonmn]

1 minute ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

Well the RRB has a vent port in the bottom right corner and top left corner, so I assume it will vent alright. Also the exhaust fans on the Renogy are at top of the device, so should be pulling cooler air from the bottom vent and exhausting toward the top vent. Though I haven't measured the temps at all.

Sounds like yours is a little bit different than mine. Mine is sealed except for the pass through gromets for the cable that enters from the engine bay. Do you have a photo of yours?

Here's what mine looks like: (Before I started removing all of the unneeded equipment)

 

[jfbolkovatz]

I wish I 'd have the electrical box in the rear of our 03 Exec.

Our instillation of the 40 amp (size limit) placed the DC-DC in the rear above the high amp box. Removed the battery isolator, installed connector posts for the alternator feed. 6 Ga wire to the converter and a common ground, maintained the boost solenoid, and maintainer. Main problem was a circuit that provided power from the key / chassis power solenoid which is in the FRBB to the converter. Solution was the RR start selection switch which powers up on turning the key. This provides the 20amp power the converter needs. Works great and charges the house to 12.4V then the Cassey as needed, - 800amps of lithium.

[RoadTripper2084]

On 5/4/2022 at 9:19 AM, Bjohnsonmn said:

Sounds like yours is a little bit different than mine. Mine is sealed except for the pass through gromets for the cable that enters from the engine bay. Do you have a photo of yours?

Here's what mine looks like: (Before I started removing all of the unneeded equipment)

 

 

Mine is a standalone panel in the engine bay at the back (side radiator). I have the start-detect input running from the fuel-start circuit, which was readily available in the panel, seems to work.

On 5/4/2022 at 8:57 AM, RoadTripper2084 said:

I had the same issue as you and ended up mounting my Renogy 60A DC-DC vertically orientated in the rear electrical panel. I had to remove the original diode battery isolator, chassis battery maintainer, and battery Boost solenoid in order to make room for it. 

Connections were simple in the rear panel everything you need is right there, and the diode isolator and boost solenoid were failing anyway so no loss. I have booster cables that I can use if I want to temporarily boost the batteries, or get a boost from another vehicle.

I also re-wired the factory solar panel to maintain the chassis battery instead of the house, not sure that is doing much though but the idea is solid, never worry about the chassis battery running low while parked again (in summer, at least).

 

I'm also happy to report that this solar panel IS keeping my chassis battery topped up while parked, but with the chassis battery enable (not cuttoff). It just needed some more direct southern sun exposure this time of year (southern Utah). My voltages vary from 12.9-12.6 🙂

 

Edited May 11, 2022 by RoadTripper2084

[Exekia]

Hi All

This thread has been super educational, and perhaps pointed out some of my own ignorance.  I have my DC-DC (Renogy OEM - Wudnum) mounted in my upper battery tray.   It is really the only place I could put it.    But I'm now concerned with the three SLA batts in the tray below.   The battery compartment has a vent / hole in the top left corner where several cables come through, not sure that is enough venting but would love some advice as I'm worried now about vented gases and the DC-DC - worst case I'll kill the DC DC (I have it switched) - but we are off to Alaska soon and don't want to leave without being more clear about this situation.  Pic attached.

Also not sure why I'm posting here as Exekia.  Usually post as anand.s;  I must have used a different email address.

Thanks in advance and for all of the help on this forum.   

Anand

[Bjohnsonmn]

On 5/22/2022 at 7:43 PM, Exekia said:

Hi All

This thread has been super educational, and perhaps pointed out some of my own ignorance.  I have my DC-DC (Renogy OEM - Wudnum) mounted in my upper battery tray.   It is really the only place I could put it.    But I'm now concerned with the three SLA batts in the tray below.   The battery compartment has a vent / hole in the top left corner where several cables come through, not sure that is enough venting but would love some advice as I'm worried now about vented gases and the DC-DC - worst case I'll kill the DC DC (I have it switched) - but we are off to Alaska soon and don't want to leave without being more clear about this situation.  Pic attached.

Also not sure why I'm posting here as Exekia.  Usually post as anand.s;  I must have used a different email address.

Thanks in advance and for all of the help on this forum.   

Anand

You are after the exact same question I am seeking to answer!!!

[Exekia]

Brad,

I've decided to add a 3" bilge air pump that runs with the ignition on to vent the battery compartment, it might be overkill so I've also found a smaller squirrel cage air ventilation fan, but I assume if I keep sucking air out of the compartment it'll be fine.  Will try to post a picture when done.  Leaving for Alaska on Saturday hopefully I get to it in time.

Anand