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Frig 12 volt wiring?


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I lost 12 volt power to my water pump could not find any fuses blown so as a short term fix I jumpered 12 volts over from the close by the circuit to get the pump running.  That was a bad idea!   It ran for a very short time and a fuse blew.   So I search for the frig fuse.   No such thing in the front bay or the closet fuse panel.   Labels are questionable so I checked every fuse I could find (all 102) all test good with the multimeter.  Checked the rear low current box and again no joy.

So the question is, where does the 12 volt power come from for the frig?  Where is that fuse?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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If it’s just the refrigerator, there is a 5 amp fuse in a black plastic box on the backside of the fridge. You will see wires running into and out of it. If it is fine, then it is a fuse in the outside compartment of the driver. Wish you the best.

 

 

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Thanks for the ideas,  The fuse in the black box on the back of the frig is not blown, it is on a 120 volt A/C line not 12 volt.  Ivan, yes there are automatic reset breakers in the rear low current plate at the back drivers side.  The diagram does show a frig breaker back there but it does not match the actual layout of the breakers so  not sure which breaker goes to the frig however none of them are open.  Checked all the fuses in the front drivers side again none of them are open.    I am still missing a fuse somewhere.

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Do you have the high temperature cut off switch which cuts off 12 volt power to Norcold 1200 series. Also there is one for sure and maybe two fuses in black plastic box on rear lower left side of refer. which controls 12 volt power for control panel on front of refer. No lights on panel, refer does not run on LP or electric without 12 volt power. Go on to u-tube on how to reset high temp. switch with a magnet. That patch fix by Norcold is very susceptible to moisture especially when washing! Somewhere around here I have schematic for a jumper wire to bypass high temp. switch. I don't recommend using this patch. I believe that they only catch fire on LP when ammonia is leaking in gaseous state.

Hope some of this helps!

Edited by GNRACN
misspelled word (arould) around
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I just reread the original post.   It looks like I I omitted some info that might help you guys that a trying to help me.  I ran a cable from a breaker on the front driver-side electrical bay back to the back of the refer and connected it to the red wires which seem to be the 12 volt supply.   That results in the refer running as it should.  So the frig is working properly though just a temporary solution.  That cable is just laying on the concrete under the Coach.   I could run a jumper from another 12 volt circuit that is close to the refer and solve the problem but I really want to find what blew and fix it properly.   

I only found one fuse in that black box on the lower left of the back of the refer and that is a 120 volt circuit and the fuse is good.

I do have the temperature cut off module on the back of the refer as well.  It has a red led on it I'm not sure under what conditions that LED is supposed to light, it is not lighted.

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I believe the only thing 110 volts on that refer. are the electric heater coils (2), everything else is 12V.

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I think you are correct.   That fuse is in the lower left corner of that lower left black box located on the circuit board immediately above where the 120 AC comes in to the box.   It is a small fuse, 5 amps I think I expect the 120 volt heater uses more than 5 amps.

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My ‘06 Monaco Knight with Norcold 1210IM had three failure points:

Breaker on main panel for 110v operation.

120v tube type fuse on circuit board* on back of fridge.

5A fuse (#F73) in front run bay.

*May also have had 5A fuse on same circuit board—don’t know for sure as I replaced it with an LG French Door!

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I opened the black box again this morning and sure enough the 12 volt 5 amp fuse was blown.  Replaced it and all is working as it should.  Thanks guys for the help.

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