Power load balance

[vanwill52]

This is a bit off the central topic of the OP, but…

I think Tom Cherry’s idea of carrying a spare male plug is a great one.  I have a spare plug—but in my basement machine shop.  I’m going to put it in the coach NOW!  I ALREADY have a 50A FEMALE receptacle in the coach.  I’ve only needed one once, at a HOT summer FMCA event (when I DID NOT have the spare receptacle) where Bill D and Betty were my traveling partners.  I got the LAST available spot and the pedestal was wired for 50A, but marked “Bad Socket.  Use 30A only”—50 A socket was charred.  Bill D and I were both on the same telephone pole with multiple electrical boxes.  He backed in first and got the last of only four WORKING 50A connections in that whole HOT unpaved parking lot.  I quickly drove to Lowe’s, bought a 50A receptacle, and swapped out the outlet (50A breaker disconnected).  I would only use the one I carry if I were in a park with a faulty receptacle and no other spots were available.

I also own (courtesy of Richard Smith) a device that was once commercially available but was not available at the time I wanted one.  It is a “pedestal checker”.  Plug it into your pedestal before connecting.  It will tell you the pedestal voltage, whether it is wired correctly, whether it is a “true” 50A connection or one in which both “hot” legs are just “phony” in-phase connections to a single (3-wire) source, instead of the 4-wire required for a true 50A service.  As you plug it in, you can also “feel” whether the receptacle is worn out and loose inside, presenting a dangerous high-resistance connection which will heat up (and possibly destroy) your cord.  It also tells you if the neutral is correctly connected.  Loss of the neutral connection can do untold damage to your entire electrical system.  I’m not sure Richard still makes these things, but if not, he MAY be willing to send you instructions on how to make your own.

Just a suggestion—when I first bought my coach from Bob Haught (RIP) and Sue, it had a very expensive Marinco 50A supply cord with molded ends.  I had found a number of campgrounds where the plug did not insert into the pedestal as securely as I wished.  To save my expensive cord from being damaged by a faulty pedestal socket, I bought a 12” 50A male/50A female “dog-bone” to use as a “sacrificial cord”, in the event I plugged into a faulty socket.  AmazonSmile: Camco 55215 18" PowerGrip Extender - 50 AMP : Tools & Home Improvement -- $14.  If my dog-bone got fried, at least my expensive cord was still OK and I could either fix the problem at the pedestal or move to another site.

Unfortunately, that expensive Marinco cord would get an erection at anything below 50*F.  CHARLES ATLAS could not coil that beast into anything smaller than a 3-foot diameter, and then it had to be stowed into an already-full single cargo bay.  I REALLY envied those guys with auto-retracting cords.

After a few experiences in cold weather with coiling that beast, I bought 35’ of SEOW cable and built a powered retracting mechanism mounted in front of my generator.  It was a modified, powered version of the Mor-Ryde manual cord reel.  Now, I just turn on the truck tarp motor that powers it, feather the clutch, and reel in my (flexible-as-it-gets) cable.  But I STILL always use the dog-bone sacrificial cord.

BTW, be aware that, when replacing your coach’s cord, NEVER buy anything that has a “T” in the description.  For instance, “STW”, no matter the advertising hype, is stiff as a brick in cold weather.  My expensive Marinco cord is “STW”.  “SOW” or “SOOW” are much more flexible.  For ULTIMATE flexibility, the cord should have an “E” in the description, as in “SEOW”.  “T” indicates “thermoPLASTIC”.  Ever bought a thermoplastic garden hose that promised flexibility in freezing temps?—How did that work for you?  “E” (anywhere in the description) indicates “ELASTOMER” and is usually referring to the cover of the cord, where most of the stiffness comes from in cold weather.  There is probably an "SEEOW" somewhere, although I've never found one.

Paul Whittle recently replaced the original cord in his (2005?) Sig (Glendenning drum—no commutator) with an AWG-equivalent cord of much better flexibility, but smaller diameter, and was able to greatly increase the length of the cord.  For someone from the “outback in Australia”, he’s a really smart cookie…not just “strokes”, Paul…although I do need some electronic help…  😁

 

Tom Cherry—I’m not in a competition with you for the most all-encompassing, detailed posts, but do you think I’m competitive?  😊  When I was a "newbie", I would always look for posts by Tom.  They were always detailed, cogent, proofread, included references, and never left you thinking to yourself, "I'm not sure what he meant."  You have always been a great asset, Tom.  Thanks.  Thanks also to Paul Whittle, whose posts are always clear and concise, and he has proven himself to be an electronic Godsend to all the folks who cannot step on a pedal to flush a toilet.  😂

Just now, vanwill52 said:

This is a bit off the central topic of the OP, but…

I think Tom Cherry’s idea of carrying a spare male plug is a great one.  I have a spare plug—but in my basement machine shop.  I’m going to put it in the coach NOW!  I ALREADY have a 50A FEMALE receptacle in the coach.  I’ve only needed one once, at a HOT summer FMCA event (when I DID NOT have the spare receptacle) where Bill D and Betty were my traveling partners.  I got the LAST available spot and the pedestal was wired for 50A, but marked “Bad Socket.  Use 30A only”—50 A socket was charred.  Bill D and I were both on the same telephone pole with multiple electrical boxes.  He backed in first and got the last of only four WORKING 50A connections in that whole HOT unpaved parking lot.  I quickly drove to Lowe’s, bought a 50A receptacle, and swapped out the outlet (50A breaker disconnected).  I would only use the one I carry if I were in a park with a faulty receptacle and no other spots were available.

I also own (courtesy of Richard Smith) a device that was once commercially available but was not available at the time I wanted one.  It is a “pedestal checker”.  Plug it into your pedestal before connecting.  It will tell you the pedestal voltage, whether it is wired correctly, whether it is a “true” 50A connection or one in which both “hot” legs are just “phony” in-phase connections to a single (3-wire) source, instead of the 4-wire required for a true 50A service.  As you plug it in, you can also “feel” whether the receptacle is worn out and loose inside, presenting a dangerous high-resistance connection which will heat up (and possibly destroy) your cord.  It also tells you if the neutral is correctly connected.  Loss of the neutral connection can do untold damage to your entire electrical system.  I’m not sure Richard still makes these things, but if not, he MAY be willing to send you instructions on how to make your own.

Just a suggestion—when I first bought my coach from Bob Haught (RIP) and Sue, it had a very expensive Marinco 50A supply cord with molded ends.  I had found a number of campgrounds where the plug did not insert into the pedestal as securely as I wished.  To save my expensive cord from being damaged by a faulty pedestal socket, I bought a 12” 50A male/50A female “dog-bone” to use as a “sacrificial cord”, in the event I plugged into a faulty socket.  AmazonSmile: Camco 55215 18" PowerGrip Extender - 50 AMP : Tools & Home Improvement -- $14.  If my dog-bone got fried, at least my expensive cord was still OK and I could either fix the problem at the pedestal or move to another site.

Unfortunately, that expensive Marinco cord would get an erection at anything below 50*F.  CHARLES ATLAS could not coil that beast into anything smaller than a 3-foot diameter, and then it had to be stowed into an already-full single cargo bay.  I REALLY envied those guys with auto-retracting cords.

After a few experiences in cold weather with coiling that beast, I bought 35’ of SEOW cable and built a powered retracting mechanism mounted in front of my generator.  It was a modified, powered version of the Mor-Ryde manual cord reel.  Now, I just turn on the truck tarp motor that powers it, feather the clutch, and reel in my (flexible-as-it-gets) cable.  But I STILL always use the dog-bone sacrificial cord.

BTW, be aware that, when replacing your coach’s cord, NEVER buy anything that has a “T” in the description.  For instance, “STW”, no matter the advertising hype, is stiff as a brick in cold weather.  My expensive Marinco cord is “STW”.  “SOW” or “SOOW” are much more flexible.  For ULTIMATE flexibility, the cord should have an “E” in the description, as in “SEOW”.  “T” indicates “thermoPLASTIC”.  Ever bought a thermoplastic garden hose that promised flexibility in freezing temps?—How did that work for you?  “E” (anywhere in the description) indicates “ELASTOMER” and is usually referring to the cover of the cord, where most of the stiffness comes from in cold weather.  There is probably an "SEEOW" somewhere, although I've never found one.

Paul Whittle recently replaced the original cord in his (2005?) Sig (Glendenning drum—no commutator) with an AWG-equivalent cord of much better flexibility, but smaller diameter, and was able to greatly increase the length of the cord.  For someone from the “outback in Australia”, he’s a really smart cookie…not just “strokes”, Paul…although I do need some electronic help…  😁

 

Tom Cherry—I’m not in a competition with you for the most all-encompassing, detailed posts, but do you think I’m competitive?  😊  When I was a "newbie", I would always look for posts by Tom.  They were always detailed, cogent, proofread, included references, and never left you thinking to yourself, "I'm not sure what he meant."  You have always been a great asset, Tom.  Thanks.  Thanks also to Paul Whittle, whose posts are always clear and concise, and he has proven himself to be an electronic Godsend to all the folks who cannot step on a pedal to flush a toilet.  😂

 

[Tom Cherry]

14 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

This is a bit off the central topic of the OP, but…

I think Tom Cherry’s idea of carrying a spare male plug is a great one.  I have a spare plug—but in my basement machine shop.  I’m going to put it in the coach NOW!  I ALREADY have a 50A FEMALE receptacle in the coach.  I’ve only needed one once, at a HOT summer FMCA event (when I DID NOT have the spare receptacle) where Bill D and Betty were my traveling partners.  I got the LAST available spot and the pedestal was wired for 50A, but marked “Bad Socket.  Use 30A only”—50 A socket was charred.  Bill D and I were both on the same telephone pole with multiple electrical boxes.  He backed in first and got the last of only four WORKING 50A connections in that whole HOT unpaved parking lot.  I quickly drove to Lowe’s, bought a 50A receptacle, and swapped out the outlet (50A breaker disconnected).  I would only use the one I carry if I were in a park with a faulty receptacle and no other spots were available.

I also own (courtesy of Richard Smith) a device that was once commercially available but was not available at the time I wanted one.  It is a “pedestal checker”.  Plug it into your pedestal before connecting.  It will tell you the pedestal voltage, whether it is wired correctly, whether it is a “true” 50A connection or one in which both “hot” legs are just “phony” in-phase connections to a single (3-wire) source, instead of the 4-wire required for a true 50A service.  As you plug it in, you can also “feel” whether the receptacle is worn out and loose inside, presenting a dangerous high-resistance connection which will heat up (and possibly destroy) your cord.  It also tells you if the neutral is correctly connected.  Loss of the neutral connection can do untold damage to your entire electrical system.  I’m not sure Richard still makes these things, but if not, he MAY be willing to send you instructions on how to make your own.

Just a suggestion—when I first bought my coach from Bob Haught (RIP) and Sue, it had a very expensive Marinco 50A supply cord with molded ends.  I had found a number of campgrounds where the plug did not insert into the pedestal as securely as I wished.  To save my expensive cord from being damaged by a faulty pedestal socket, I bought a 12” 50A male/50A female “dog-bone” to use as a “sacrificial cord”, in the event I plugged into a faulty socket.  AmazonSmile: Camco 55215 18" PowerGrip Extender - 50 AMP : Tools & Home Improvement -- $14.  If my dog-bone got fried, at least my expensive cord was still OK and I could either fix the problem at the pedestal or move to another site.

Unfortunately, that expensive Marinco cord would get an erection at anything below 50*F.  CHARLES ATLAS could not coil that beast into anything smaller than a 3-foot diameter, and then it had to be stowed into an already-full single cargo bay.  I REALLY envied those guys with auto-retracting cords.

After a few experiences in cold weather with coiling that beast, I bought 35’ of SEOW cable and built a powered retracting mechanism mounted in front of my generator.  It was a modified, powered version of the Mor-Ryde manual cord reel.  Now, I just turn on the truck tarp motor that powers it, feather the clutch, and reel in my (flexible-as-it-gets) cable.  But I STILL always use the dog-bone sacrificial cord.

BTW, be aware that, when replacing your coach’s cord, NEVER buy anything that has a “T” in the description.  For instance, “STW”, no matter the advertising hype, is stiff as a brick in cold weather.  My expensive Marinco cord is “STW”.  “SOW” or “SOOW” are much more flexible.  For ULTIMATE flexibility, the cord should have an “E” in the description, as in “SEOW”.  “T” indicates “thermoPLASTIC”.  Ever bought a thermoplastic garden hose that promised flexibility in freezing temps?—How did that work for you?  “E” (anywhere in the description) indicates “ELASTOMER” and is usually referring to the cover of the cord, where most of the stiffness comes from in cold weather.  There is probably an "SEEOW" somewhere, although I've never found one.

Paul Whittle recently replaced the original cord in his (2005?) Sig (Glendenning drum—no commutator) with an AWG-equivalent cord of much better flexibility, but smaller diameter, and was able to greatly increase the length of the cord.  For someone from the “outback in Australia”, he’s a really smart cookie…not just “strokes”, Paul…although I do need some electronic help…  😁

 

Tom Cherry—I’m not in a competition with you for the most all-encompassing, detailed posts, but do you think I’m competitive?  😊  When I was a "newbie", I would always look for posts by Tom.  They were always detailed, cogent, proofread, included references, and never left you thinking to yourself, "I'm not sure what he meant."  You have always been a great asset, Tom.  Thanks.  Thanks also to Paul Whittle, whose posts are always clear and concise, and he has proven himself to be an electronic Godsend to all the folks who cannot step on a pedal to flush a toilet.  😂

 

Many thanks for the kind words.  I have, like Maverick, “reengaged” a bit lately….I always learn that I don’t have enough knowledge or I formation and that I call folks, most know who, and then dig…

Your idea of the Dogbone is cool. I had issues with the 30 and 50 in Canada as they used Eaton boxes….or receptacle boxes and outlets with a “bar” across the bottom and the plug would not mate or be square.  I carved a relief notch.  When you finally do your field replacement….use it for a while.  Retorque and then pot.  That is as good as a Molded from a weatherproofing standpoint….

[Dr4Film]

I purchased one of those 50-50-amp extensions after talking with Van one day at Lazy Days. I have had to use it on numerous occasions, some with boxes that would not allow the Glendenning power cord to seat into the receptacle correctly and some that had less than desirable looking 50-amp receptacles to use.

Also, thanks for the reference on the Power/Pedestal Testers. I do still build those custom testers, but I only build the digital model. I no longer build the analog model as shown in your photo. They are custom made so once the order has been placed and paid for it takes a few days to get the parts and put one together.

 

[Georgia Mike]

I just returned from a 8 day trip. I had no issues with the electrical system at all until about an hour before we were ready to head home. We went to use a toaster and the main park pedestal 50 amp breaker blew. I was surprised because there wasn’t a heavy load at the time. When I reset it there was an error on the Magnum panel saying “ac overload”  I reset the Magnum and it was ok but I then noticed the batteries were low 12.3 on one and 12.4 on the other. It would try and charge but after a few minutes it would say internal fault and stop charging. I did notice a few days into our trip that one of the banks seemed low around 12.4 when plugged into shore power. I went over to the Magnum panel and realized I still had it on 15 amps so I changed it to 30 amps. A few hours later they were both around 13 volts so I thought ok good. A couple of days later I noticed again one of the banks was low around 12.2 and I thought it shouldn’t get this low when the charger is on. I kept watching and later in the day it was back up so I don’t know if that’s normal but it doesn’t sound right to me. So now when I have it on shore or generator it starts charging for a few minutes but then stops and says internal error. Another thing is when looking at Aladdin screen it shows 0 amps being drawn on one of the legs but it shows 120 volts on each leg. There is always at least 1 or two amps showing so I don’t understand that at all. I checked the shore outlet and it had both 120 volt legs working. So my question is being since I’ve had all these issues on the trip before and now this do you think my inverter is shot that’s what I’m thinking just wanted everyone’s opinion. 

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

I just returned from a 8 day trip. I had no issues with the electrical system at all until about an hour before we were ready to head home. We went to use a toaster and the main park pedestal 50 amp breaker blew. I was surprised because there wasn’t a heavy load at the time. When I reset it there was an error on the Magnum panel saying “ac overload”  I reset the Magnum and it was ok but I then noticed the batteries were low 12.3 on one and 12.4 on the other. It would try and charge but after a few minutes it would say internal fault and stop charging. I did notice a few days into our trip that one of the banks seemed low around 12.4 when plugged into shore power. I went over to the Magnum panel and realized I still had it on 15 amps so I changed it to 30 amps. A few hours later they were both around 13 volts so I thought ok good. A couple of days later I noticed again one of the banks was low around 12.2 and I thought it shouldn’t get this low when the charger is on. I kept watching and later in the day it was back up so I don’t know if that’s normal but it doesn’t sound right to me. So now when I have it on shore or generator it starts charging for a few minutes but then stops and says internal error. Another thing is when looking at Aladdin screen it shows 0 amps being drawn on one of the legs but it shows 120 volts on each leg. There is always at least 1 or two amps showing so I don’t understand that at all. I checked the shore outlet and it had both 120 volt legs working. So my question is being since I’ve had all these issues on the trip before and now this do you think my inverter is shot that’s what I’m thinking just wanted everyone’s opinion. 

8730910E-FE63-4A4E-B0D0-30A672CB5E67.MOV

OK....this is getting deep.  BUT here goes.

First.  I assume that you know how to do the setup on the Magnum Remote set up.  If not, read up on it.  I had a similar issue....but saying it was the same would be futile.  Go through the setup and either take pictures...but better write down all the 8 or 9 steps.  If you aren't comfortable with that....then you need to get there or call Magnum and let them help you.  It is important to know HOW and WHAT parameters are set up correctly.  Using the wrong Shore is bad....yours should always be set to 30 amps....that is the breaker.. when you were on 15, that was an issue.

BUT, you still have the problem.  And whether on AC or Genny....you got a FAULT...

The other big issue, is what is the Charging Rate.  Typically, for the age of your Magnum, I would use 80% as that keeps things cooler inside the Magnum...

Past that, you need to understand what each one does.

DO NOT ENABLE THE FIRST ONE....SEEK WATTS.  Set that to OFF>...it will drive you crazy...want a better insight.....if it is set incorrectly, every time you go from AC to DC/Inverting or back...a Satellite box will reset.  You probably won't see it on the Microwave...but it has happened.  

Here are some things you can try....BUT, you will need to be on 50 Amp power to see if it works.   You can also be running on Genny if you don't have 50 amps at home.

The first thing....the Magnum was overloaded.  PLAIN AND SIMPLE.  Without going into the gory details, and Frank and I have spent a lot of time on this....you need to start digging and fixing....and if it still is bad....call Magnum....and then....maybe get a Tech...  .  read these....and then here is what we think you might do.

https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/hard-reset-instructions-magnum-energy-inverterchargers

https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/fault-code-troubleshooting-me-rc-me-mr-me-arc-and-me-artr-remotes

First....the SIMPLE.  Your Magnum wiring is a "one only year" or maybe TWO configuration.  Your Battery Cut Off Switch controls the Magnum.  Mine is wired straight....through a big "fuse"

SO...if you Battery Cut off switch is bad, then you will NOT get good power to the batteries.  The current flows both ways....in when inverting; Out when Charging.  BUT....testing that is a little tricky.

Disconnect the Battery post....BOTH.  Turn OFF the Genny breaker upfront on the main panel. Unplug the SHORE.

SO....you need to put out fires.  Look behind the battery box. there are TWO large Ground cables coming out. One is the Chassis and the other is the House.  They are on a stud welded to the frame. Assuming GO obvious corrosion, then loosen slight and turn or rotate the terminals on the studs.  This burnished.  OR PULL THEM OFF....clean and reassemble and spray with Battery Post spray.  NOW, you KNOW you have a good ground.

Then, it is TIME to start exploring.  Disconnect the leads to the Magnum (Positive and Negative).  There are THREE, i think, phone lines installed so disconnect (marking them) those three lines.  That is STEP 3.

Remove the Magnum cover. There are SEVEN two screw terminals.  See Pages 39 and 40 of the manual and look at the figures.  I have attached the file with it.

Use a good light....like a small high power LED.  Tighten the 14 screws. If any one of them is loose....AN ISSUE. Now look at the board and the wiring. If you see any charring or burned spots or such....you are gonna need a new Inverter....and you MUST buy a new Remote....as your remote is more apt to be flaky than the Inverter.

SO....all is tight.  No signs or issues.  Take us a LOT of pictures....that helps.

Put the cover back on....STOP THEN.

Find the House Battery Cut Off.  Check the nuts on the studs on the back. If this switch is bad...you will get LOW voltage IN or NO or LOW Charging Voltage back..to the Magnum.  NOW, you have had the Magnum off for more than 5 minutes....so that is OK.  Plug back in the phone lines. Hook back up the BATTERY Bank. DO NOT turn the Battery Switch ON YET.  That is the last thing....

The next is to hook up the two leads...Positive and Negative.

You will have to start the Genny and let it idle for 2 minutes or plug into a GOOD, KNOWN 50A Shore. When you are sure the Genny is warmed up

While you wait.....Set UP your Aladdin to read. You will monitor the Aladdin as well as the remote. 

NOW....last step....turn ON the Battery Cut Off switch....that will complete the Hard Reset...when the Magnum comes back to life.....you MAY have to TURN ON the Magnum from the remote.

Odds are....the batteries will go directly to charge...so you will see current.  Read the Magnum Remote.  See how they are.  Pictures of EACH would be great.

That's IT....If you have NO MORE issues....then you had a bad or loose connection. That popped the breaker...why it went back to the Pedestal....anybody's guess.

BUT, if you get faults or error codes or it goes out again....Magnum is the first call.

I can tell you that the big relay that does the internal switching is NOT replaceable. YOU can either have the Magnum rebuilt...but there are so many things that could also be bad...that is not a good investment.  You can buy one direct....put it in yourself.  Buy yourself a NEW REMOTE.  Remember my issues.  My remote was messing up the Magnum.  WHY TAKE A CHANCE.  $150 or so. A new Magnum will be in the $1,500 range....the last time I looked....

Personally, if I were doing all this, I would spend $30 and get a NEW house battery cut off switch. You now have rebuilt the entire high current inverting and charging circuits....

Good Luck....keep up posted. Pictures are great....

 

Magnum Inverter Manual 64-0007 Rev A (MS Series).pdf

[Tom Cherry]

BTW.  We helpers lose some details as we have multiple folks needing advice. I vaguely recall you opening your ATS.  Based on a recent electric issue.  You need to pull all your covers….main and subpanel.  Do the PM and tighten all the terminals.  Pay attention to the breakers. Sort of tug or gently lift each one like you were going to pop out or replace.  Make sure each one, especially on the sub panel and the two 30’s on the main are stalled properly and seated.

[Georgia Mike]

Thanks Tom for the information. Yes I have checked all the connections in the breaker panels they were all tight and I also ended up replacing one of the breakers that just seemed a little loose. I went over today and did the hard reset on the inverter I pulled the cover off and checked all the connections inside the inverter they were all tight. I checked the grounds near the battery banks and they were tight and clean as well very hard to get to the backside of the cut off switch’s  from where they are located in my motorhome but the connections seemed very clean and not corroded whatsoever. I checked all of my batteries house and chassis which are all new in 2020 and all connections were tight and clean and all the voltages we’re good on each individual battery. I also unplugged the three phone cable communication wires to the inverter and disconnected the two main battery cables and clean them and re-terminated them as well. After all that I turned it back on and it immediately went to internal fault again and the internal transfer switch isn’t passing through the voltage as well either because none of the inverter circuits on the subpanel have power when the generator was on Which was the microwave the TVs in a bunch of other outlets were all dead the Air conditioners were running fine because obviously they aren’t on the inverter sub panel. So it sounds like I’m gonna be ordering a new inverter from what I can tell and as you mentioned getting a new magnum remote screen.

[Dr4Film]

Mike,

The previous owner of my 06 Dynasty had recently replaced the Magnum Inverter with an upgraded one prior to my purchase. It is now a PSW Magnum MS-2012. I changed out the ME-AR remote for a new ME-ARC remote plus I upgraded the AGS from the ME-AGSS to the ME-AGS-N.

I still need to call Magnum Tech Service to discuss the setup of the ME-ARC and the ME-AGS-N before our trip back to Florida.

The Magnum components I removed will go up for sale on eBay.

[Georgia Mike]

Richard, according to the brochure the 06 Dynasty came standard with a 2000 watt pure sine wave charger/inverter that’s what I have and it’s original and it’s the MS 2012

[Dr4Film]

I am always one step behind the times. You are absolutely correct.

They obviously replaced it with the same model. It looks brand new!

[Tom Cherry]

18 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

Thanks Tom for the information. Yes I have checked all the connections in the breaker panels they were all tight and I also ended up replacing one of the breakers that just seemed a little loose. I went over today and did the hard reset on the inverter I pulled the cover off and checked all the connections inside the inverter they were all tight. I checked the grounds near the battery banks and they were tight and clean as well very hard to get to the backside of the cut off switch’s  from where they are located in my motorhome but the connections seemed very clean and not corroded whatsoever. I checked all of my batteries house and chassis which are all new in 2020 and all connections were tight and clean and all the voltages we’re good on each individual battery. I also unplugged the three phone cable communication wires to the inverter and disconnected the two main battery cables and clean them and re-terminated them as well. After all that I turned it back on and it immediately went to internal fault again and the internal transfer switch isn’t passing through the voltage as well either because none of the inverter circuits on the subpanel have power when the generator was on Which was the microwave the TVs in a bunch of other outlets were all dead the Air conditioners were running fine because obviously they aren’t on the inverter sub panel. So it sounds like I’m gonna be ordering a new inverter from what I can tell and as you mentioned getting a new magnum remote screen.

I answered your email as it popped up first.  Since you are now up to date on the…”find problem and THEN spend money” approach, let’s go from there.

THERE is one final step….and Magnum would recommend it.  
AS FUTILE as it may seem.  Perform the Hard Reset again.  But do NOT plug back in the REMOTE.  Plug in or give it Genny Power,  it MUST AC have power for the next step.

THEN… Hold on the Magnum power for 20 odd seconds. Seems redundant, but that forces the Magnum into the default “setup” mode.  It will work fine and the parameters are designed for a 4 battery bank….and all the setup in the Remote are “in there”.  If you do not have “pass through” power…the onboard ATS is gone,  

Just for your “education”, that relay is a Normally CLOSED one,  as long as there is AC or The InVerter is OFF….then the relay stays closes.  Look at the two diagrams I pointed out, When the board reads NO INCOMING AC…and of course there is DC, then the Inverter starts to invert and supply AC. If there is AC, THEN the relay is closed….passing through power.

SO…if it is not passing power, odds are…NEW inverter….but MY Remote “lied” to the inverter.  You can actually run or use the MH without a remote….once you have done the Soft Reset.  That is how I knew my inverter was OK.  Later on, the Remote lost the setup and/or locked up.  

I feel like a coach….you are on the final leg of your race.  Do the above.  If no power…call Magnum.  We could not find the “failure code list”.  Magnum has it,

Thanks for being diligent.  

[Georgia Mike]

Yesterday after I did the hard reset and the same error came up on the screen “internal fault-1” I went back outside and tried to do a soft reset by holding the button in until it started to flash. As soon as it started flashing the generator cut off. I went back in and started the generator back up and it was fine but still no ac passing through to anything on the sub panel. Now I did have the remote still plugged in and today I did the hard and soft reset without the generator running with all the phone plugs disconnected but i still got the internal fault error on the screen within 15 seconds or so. I will try tomorrow one last time as you said with Generator running and remote disconnected and do the soft reset but I’m pretty sure it’s going to kill the generator again. That should eliminate the remote panel for sure.

[Tom Cherry]

On 8/9/2022 at 6:00 PM, Georgia Mike said:

Yesterday after I did the hard reset and the same error came up on the screen “internal fault-1” I went back outside and tried to do a soft reset by holding the button in until it started to flash. As soon as it started flashing the generator cut off. I went back in and started the generator back up and it was fine but still no ac passing through to anything on the sub panel. Now I did have the remote still plugged in and today I did the hard and soft reset without the generator running with all the phone plugs disconnected but i still got the internal fault error on the screen within 15 seconds or so. I will try tomorrow one last time as you said with Generator running and remote disconnected and do the soft reset but I’m pretty sure it’s going to kill the generator again. That should eliminate the remote panel for sure.

UPDATE....I had to call Magnum to get the skinny on another member's problems.  I also took that as an opportunity to ask Magnum.  Here is what the tech told me.

You MAY have a FATAL error....as in NEW INVERTER.  The System Fault -1 is the ATS relay or a failure in the "Bridge"....OK, ENGLISH....the BRIDGE is the main circuit or "chip" if you will.  They call it the FET.  If you have EVER got a Flashing light....then odds are....it was an OVERHEATED FET.  The solution....turn back the Charging Current to 80%.  I have seen this.

OK>>>>>next up....he told me to have you do this....

Do the HARD RESET AGAIN....PITA....but it is the ONLY way to actually see.  BUT, he said that their procedure, he thought was wrong....but he was NOT a design engineer....just had a lot of experience....

Instead of "waiting a minute or so" with the power off....do it this way, Kill the AC power.  Remove the DC connections.  Remove the three phone lines.  SHUT IT DOWN FOR 30 minutes....maybe an HOUR.  Take a screwdriver and JUMPER over the DC terminals or use a wire.  You have GOT to get all the stored current in the capacitors bled OFF.  Then.....you have an OPTION.  If you follow one of my recommendations.....then do NOT plug in the REMOTE.  

Reconnect the other 2 (one is the battery temperature sensor and the other is the AGS or NETWORK one.  Reconnect the DC leads. Then plug in or turn on the Genny and let it come to life.  WAIT a few minutes if the Genny is used. THEN do the SOFT RESET.  That probably was DONE...but he said to do it again.  THEN....see if the AC is passing through....as in all the subpanel outlets or devices are working.  

Then, with GOOD CHARGED BATTERIES.....kill the Genny or the Shore.  The AC might "Flash" on the Microwave....but you should be able to clear it and see if all is well. Measure the voltage to make sure (use an outlet) that you are getting around 115 or so.  Then let it cook a while....to drain off a little.  Then start the Genny or Shore....even 30 Amps will work.  If it switches OK then you are GOOD to go.  NOW, you MAY get a flicker and the microwave clock goes off and resets.  THAT IS NORMAL...as the SEARCH WATTS has kicked in. 

Plug in the remote...if you get an error code....then call Magnum and tell them.  If it is clear....then go through the setup on the Magnum.  If you are unsure....then call and they will do it.  DISABLE the SEARCH WATTS.  Use a Low Battery Cut off of 11.8 VDC....otherwise, set it up like they tell you.  They will also go through the diagnostics and help you.

That's it....Let up know....

We, or at least me, are out of "trouble shooting options".  Get Magnum on board.  I had to wait less than 5 minutes....so they are back in business and helpful...as usual.

 

[Georgia Mike]

Great, thanks Tom. I was just about ready to order a new one from an authorized dealer of course but I’m glad you gave me this information. I am going to go back over tomorrow to the storage lot and give one more Hail Mary to make sure this thing is toast or not. Who knows maybe I’ll score a TD

[Georgia Mike]

Went over to do the steps Magnum suggested to no avail. I disconnected the battery Leeds at the inverter and shorted them out. I let it sit for about 45 min with all phone cable leads disconnected. I turned on the two battery disconnects and started the generator. I went straight to the microwave because I know it goes through the inverter pass through and it came on. I was excited for about one minute and it went dead. All sub panel circuits where dead again. I plugged in the Magnum panel and had the same error code. Time to order a new one.

[Tom Cherry]

3 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

Went over to do the steps Magnum suggested to no avail. I disconnected the battery Leeds at the inverter and shorted them out. I let it sit for about 45 min with all phone cable leads disconnected. I turned on the two battery disconnects and started the generator. I went straight to the microwave because I know it goes through the inverter pass through and it came on. I was excited for about one minute and it went dead. All sub panel circuits where dead again. I plugged in the Magnum panel and had the same error code. Time to order a new one.

If you are ONE to have a toddy.  Give yourself ONE.  I am awarding you the SPECIAL GOLD STAR for following advice and instructions.

NOW>>>>  Before you order, call Magnum.  Make sure that you have your OLD part number and tell them that it is a DUAL IN - DUAL OUT....with SubPanels....so they get you the RIGHT ONE TO ORDER.

THEN....ask them what the latest remote it.  It is probably the RC model. You do NOT need the ARC, unless you plan to totally upgrade and put in a Battery Monitor Kit.  If that is not in the cards....then get a new remote.

If you have the ORIGINAL AGS, with KNOBS....and it works or your don't use it or intend to....then leave it alone.  BUT....TEST IT PERIODICALLY... Mine failed.  The NEW N series AGS is great.  I'm living on borrowed time.  Original Magnum works.....but I have replaced my Remote and the AGS.  BUT, I got a LOT of hours on mine.....OMG...what DID I SAY...

Good Luck...

[Georgia Mike]

Just wanted to follow up on this electrical problem I was having. I ended up ordering a new Magnum 2000 watt inverter and installed it back in August and also not long after that installed the Hughes Autoformer. Since that time I have been on 4 or 5 trips without any problems. Hopefully this lengthy discussion will help someone in the future. Thanks to all that responded.