EMS on 20A

[BradHend]

I’m not sure if this is normal, so any insight would be helpful.  
If I plug my coach into a 120v, 20A receptacle for shore power, the EMS displays that all the loads are available, and they are.  
If I happened to have both A/Cs on, both would attempt to run.  It still recognizes if I’m plugged into 50a shore power or running off the genny, but being plugged into only 20A I thought the load outputs were automatically throttled back to say one A/C and the water heater.   Unless I’m wrong and it dynamically sheds loads as it sees higher current being drawn, in which case it must be malfunctioning as it will try and run both A/Cs on 20A service until it blows the shore breaker. 

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, BradHend said:

I’m not sure if this is normal, so any insight would be helpful.  
If I plug my coach into a 120v, 20A receptacle for shore power, the EMS displays that all the loads are available, and they are.  
If I happened to have both A/Cs on, both would attempt to run.  It still recognizes if I’m plugged into 50a shore power or running off the genny, but being plugged into only 20A I thought the load outputs were automatically throttled back to say one A/C and the water heater.   Unless I’m wrong and it dynamically sheds loads as it sees higher current being drawn, in which case it must be malfunctioning as it will try and run both A/Cs on 20A service until it blows the shore breaker. 

You must re boot or reset the EMS.  TWO WAYS.  Depends on how your MH IS CONFIGURED.  IF I guess wrong, it will not.  So the tried and proven method.

No SHORE (20 A) or Genny on.  If you have solar, either find the controller and disconnect the battery leads or throw a tarp or blanket over the panel.  Turn off BOTH House and Chassis batteries.  There should be no 12 VDC power inside nor should the Xantrex panel have any lights on.  If the Xantrex has lights, you will need to disconnect the Negative to the House bank.  Wait a few minutes..some don’t. I usually do a minimum of 5 minutes.  Turn back on House and Chassis and renergize the solar.  Then plug into your 20 amp.  You should see it normal and be able to select the 20 Amp light.

The other is to have no shore or Genny. Turn off the Genny circuit breaker at the Genny.  Remove the main 50 Amp cover.  The EMS a will be the module of electronic device on the lower or middle RIGHT.  Maybe 2 or 3 wire connectors. Pull all…they are polarized and you can’t put them into but one connection.  There’s a 3 amp fuse, maybe hidden by some bundle of wires.  Pull it.

NOW a get up close and pwesonal with the electrical panel.  Preventative Maintenance time..  Tighten securely EVERY screw you see and/or any Allen heads.  Make sure all the breakers are lined up and one has not slipped or looks “crooked”.  They snap in place, so if one is drooping or such lift and reseat it.  This is intuitive and doesn’t require a YouTube video.

Plug back in the connections and reinstall the fuse.  Panel back on.  Turn on Genny CB.  Apply 120.

Thats the very FIRST srep.  Report back here on status…

 

[OhReally]

I second what Tom Cherry says about tightening as all screws you can get to in your electrical system. I also recommend that everyone do this once a year as preventative maintenance. The more you use your electrical system, the hotter a bad connection can get. The hotter a bad connection gets, the more potential for a fire. Many RVs have been lost to this lack of appropriate maintenance.

I would also add, while tightening the screws, pay close attention to any burned or slightly burned wire insulation. If you see any signs of a hot connection get it looked at as soon as possible by a trained RV tech or electrician.

[Cushman_Ruth]

MODERATOR EDIT

THIS TOPIC WAS MERGED INTO AN ONGOING DISCUSSION OF THE INTELLITEC EMS.

END OF EDIT
 

We have an Intellitec 750 EMS in our 2005 HR Endeavor 40PDQ. Recently the Intellitech display panel has begun "blinking" intermittently, it "blinks" in a random fashion whether we are connected to 50 Amp shore power or on the generator. It may not "blink" for hours at a time.

Has anyone experienced this symptom? Any idea of the cause/solution?

[Dr4Film]

First thing to do is reset the control board. Then repost.

[Tom Cherry]

@Cushman_Ruth

Your new post or topic was merged into an ongoing topic.  Scroll up to my post yesterday.  These are the steps for resetting.  One scenario that does not require pulling off the main 750 main cover.  The other set is for folks that have a little electrical and troubleshooting shooting experience.

As Richard suggested, a reset is needed….so the post is the detailed “how to”.

Let us know what the results are….probably will restore it.

[Cushman_Ruth]

Performed the "reset" this morning. Shut off all AC and DC power and waited 15 minutes, restored DC and AC power, the EMS restored AC power to the display, however the display still "blinks."

Any further recommendations?

[Tom Cherry]

6 hours ago, Cushman_Ruth said:

Performed the "reset" this morning. Shut off all AC and DC power and waited 15 minutes, restored DC and AC power, the EMS restored AC power to the display, however the display still "blinks."

Any further recommendations?

Is the EMS acting funny and shutting down any devices?  
If all seems OK, then, do, if you are handy, a little trouble shooting and pull the remote off the wall.  I believe it has a telephone cable that connects the remote to the EMS.  Whether that phone cable plugs into the back of the remote, i can’t get to in the manual.  If it does plug in, unplug it and clean the plug and receptacle with a Q-Tip with alcohol.  You may have to also remove the panel and clean the phone cable there.  A loose or intermittent connection in a phone cable is a problem on MH.

As long as it is working….and you reset it and you cleaned the phone connections, that is 90% of the simple issues.  

Past that, contact M&M RV Electronic in Ohio City, Ohio.  They are “free” tech support for Intellitec.  If may be that you have a faulty remote head.  The remote head is strictly a display and has no “brain”.  It only can do one thing….tell the main Intellitec module or brain if it is on 20 or 30 amp power.,,that is a an “toggle action” switch that you manually go from 20 - 30….the Intellitec brain can’t measure ot test or figure that out.

All the decisions or actions take place in the module….so a bad connection or a faulty remote might “blink”.  Be on a cell phone and in the motor home when you call.  They run a repair and sales business….so be patient and call ….

 

[fredelkamp]

I did the "reset" this morning. Shut off all AC and DC power and waited 15 minutes, restored the DC and AC power, which was acting funny, AC wouldn't stay on an washer/dryer wouldn't run. All fixed now, just need to find me a display with all the things it's controlling listed.