Slow Power Awning - 2009 Camelot

[Guest ReneeL]

We have 2009 Monaco Camelot with a large power awning.  It is slow to come in and needs helps coming in.  When we purchased the unit a year ago, they replaced the motor in the awning because it was very slow and almost no movement.  
 

what can be do to make it move faster and on its own without manpower assistance?

[jacwjames]

Do you know the make/model of the awning.

I have a One-Touch Carefree of Colorado, mine was doing the same thing.  On this model year Carefree had an external bayonet twist lock connector on the outside of the coach that was the problem, I eliminated this and that solved my problem.

In other cases I've read of voltage problems.  Check the voltage at the motor or controller while trying to move the awning.   If you see low voltage you may trying bringing new/larger power wire to the the controller. 

 

[Tom Cherry]

On 5/7/2023 at 11:50 PM, ReneeL said:

We have 2009 Monaco Camelot with a large power awning.  It is slow to come in and needs helps coming in.  When we purchased the unit a year ago, they replaced the motor in the awning because it was very slow and almost no movement.  
 

what can be do to make it move faster and on its own without manpower assistance?

If you have the sidewall awning, this is a known issue.  Check the connections from the control box and at the motor.  Monaco undersized the wiring and there is low voltage to the motor.  You also need to verify the voltage to the controller…..as well as the house batteries.  There have been several topics on this.

MY Wild Posterior solution would be to install two relays.  Power them like a reversing electric slide configuration.  But send out 20 volts from a rechargeable and removable power tool lithium battery.  That is how the techs test.  Maybe some of the electronics gurus here will comment.  

EDIT.

The original post had a comment about no brake lights in the signature which has been edited and removed as there was a separate post on that band a separate topic.

your brake lights need to be troubleshot properly.  The “fuse” box is nat a fuse.  It is a 5 pin Bosch 87/87A relay.  if that didn’t fix it, then the incoming signal to the relay coil needs to be verified as well as the power lead.  Someone with print understanding and VOM skills needs to tackle it.

here is the prints for the files. There are two air pressure switches that initiate or make the signal up front on the other side of the firewall where the brake pedal is.  Start there and work back.  I can’t recall where the relay gets power….up front or in the rear. Look at the prints…

22 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Do you know the make/model of the awning.

I have a One-Touch Carefree of Colorado, mine was doing the same thing.  On this model year Carefree had an external bayonet twist lock connector on the outside of the coach that was the problem, I eliminated this and that solved my problem.

In other cases I've read of voltage problems.  Check the voltage at the motor or controller while trying to move the awning.   If you see low voltage you may trying bringing new/larger power wire to the the controller. 

 

The problem with the sidewall on the Camelot could be the incoming voltage, but all the posts blame the undersized wire in the sidewall and that is not replaceable unless you run external or internal wire mold.  Check some of the past topics….an issue that has popped up since 2013….memory.

if it is the overhead or top awning, it is a Carefree or “Girard wannabe”.  It is 120 VAC powered and rarely has motor problems….adjustments….yes.

Odds are it is the sidewall if it is being manually helped ……. But helping the rooftop would be a chore…

[Gweedo]

Good morning, I am not electrical Guru but this is what I found and how I repaired it.  I was losing voltage and you can clearly see how corroded the connector was.  I hollowed out the connector and eliminated it.  I kept the connector and wired the wires directly through.  If you choose to do this, try and cut the wires at different lengths, this will avoid trying to fit all the wires AND new connectors in the small opening of the connector to the MH.   This made a difference but it was still slow, the motor isn't very big.

I agree the wire should be larger, but that is a tough run.  Good luck!

[Tom Cherry]

OK….read this one. especially Chris Throgmartin’s last post.  He is a member and owns a repair shop.  I searched the topics and they are all the same…

Check for corroded terminals in the outside connector.  Get rid of it is an option.  After thinking about it…..here is the first step….measure the voltages as follows…

Incoming voltage to controller.

Incoming voltage to controller when the awning is being used.  If more than half a volt drop….there is an upstream problem.

Outgoing voltage to the motor….WHEN MOVING or in use.  If there is even a few tenths difference (lower) that the incoming voltage to the controller, when in use…bad controller.  EXPENSIVE.  

Incoming voltage to the Motor when in use.  If you have checked the connections or eliminated the connector and the voltage is dropping,,,.then it IS in the wiring and you need more voltage to the motor.

That in itself presents two problems.  If the controller is bad, that may be very expensive.  It is also posted….and Carefree would need to verify….that the controller has built in current sensors….in that when the awning is deployed (fully), then there will be an increase in the amperage….or a voltage drop.  Which ever, that is the signal to SHUT OFF/Down.  Same for retracting.  If I read the manual correctly, there is a NiCad battery switch for the outside….with a battery downstream of the controller.  The intent, again, in theory….someone shuts down the awning when it is fully deployed or retracted.  Thus, the current sensing controls are bypassed.

SO, if one set up two relays to extend and retract….the sensor in the motor circuit will never see the spike….from the inside….and you could (will?) damage the awning.  

Therefore use of an auxiliary power source in the 14 - 16 VDC range would require an external switch….and relays….and the interior switch which goes to the controller would be eliminated.  Now if the controller is bad….then this might be the best or most cost effective solution.

BOTTOM LINE…an alternate power source and relay logic will need to be controlled from the outside to prevent damage……

[Tom Cherry]

@ReneeL

You posted this elsewhere when you started a topic on your brake light issues.  I did not realize that there were two topics with comments on the same problem…

Thank everyone for their words of wisdom.  It was the magic in changing the 81 fuse and it’s all back to working properly.  We thought it was the relay but thankfully just a tiny fuse.  

Glad you figured it out.  In the future, please do not add a PS or Tag line like this. It confuses folks and you get dual posts and sometimes conflicting information.  One topic per post….and no double posting…

Thanks for understanding….