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Dish King Tailgater Install


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What type and size of screw am I supposed to use, in order to mount the Dish King Tailgater to the roof, and what sealant should I use?

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You're mounting your portable Tailgater to the roof?  I have a Tailgater, but use it on a tripod in the event I have trees around me that block the signal I can move it to avoid the trees.  Your unit may be different than mine, which is not designed for permanent mounting?

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This is what mine looks like.

IMG_2298.jpeg

IMG_2299.jpeg

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I have the same unit, I bought it because it is portable.   Most campgrounds where we live and often where we travel have many trees that can block the ability to receive the satellite signal, I use 75 ft of coaxial cable so I can usually move it away from the trees.  You might consider keeping it portable and set it on top of your coach yet be able to move it from end-to-end to access the satellites.  Amazon sells a nice tripod that fits it as well.

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Mine is the same also, and I have to have the handle pointing north and the front pointing south to get the satellites. Not sure how that will work being installed on the roof. I’ll be waiting to see. Good luck 

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I had mine installed on the roof (I’ve since removed it). I used #10 x 1-1/2” stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed directly into the Coach roof, and sealed everything up with Dicor self-leveling lap sealant. I had it mounted like that for about 5 years and never had any problem. 

This is where it was…  (I’ve filled the screw holes with Dicor and patched with Eternabond…) I’m doing a roof renovation, so please  ignore my dirty roof  🤣.

 

IMG_5544.thumb.jpeg.5fbbac6ee90f12c5c5c1668674e9dc46.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Scotty Hutto said:

I had mine installed on the roof (I’ve since removed it). I used #10 x 1-1/2” stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed directly into the Coach roof, and sealed everything up with Dicor self-leveling lap sealant. I had it mounted like that for about 5 years and never had any problem. 

This is where it was…  (I’ve filled the screw holes with Dicor and patched with Eternabond…) I’m doing a roof renovation, so please  ignore my dirty roof  🤣.

 

IMG_5544.thumb.jpeg.5fbbac6ee90f12c5c5c1668674e9dc46.jpeg

This is your old antenna, Scotty, just now getting around to installing it.

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35 minutes ago, FLynes said:

This is your old antenna, Scotty, just now getting around to installing it.

Well, now you know! 🤣

11 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Scotty, you don't have an aluminum roof? I thought that generation Monaco, HR had aluminum.

Gary 05 AMB DST

Nope. Fiberglass.  Aluminum would be nice, tho!

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2 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Scotty, you don't have an aluminum roof? I thought that generation Monaco, HR had aluminum.

Gary 05 AMB DST

 

2 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Well, now you know! 🤣

Nope. Fiberglass.  Aluminum would be nice, tho!

Ours is aluminum, which is why I asked about the type of fastener. I don’t want to end up with galvanic corrosion.

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1 hour ago, FLynes said:

 

Ours is aluminum, which is why I asked about the type of fastener. I don’t want to end up with galvanic corrosion.

You should be OK with SS fasteners.  If you are REALLY worried, put in a fiber washer between the head and the tabs.  You do NOT want to use Brass Screws.....trust me on that....I used Aluminum valve cover caps on my GS's car and it had plain (UNPLATED) brass.  4 months in a salted road environment welded the caps on and I sheared a TPMS getting off the cap.  MOST TPMS are plated....not plain brass.  

SS is probably OK...but a nylon or rubber or fiber washer will seal the deal.  Amazon has LOADS of SS Hex Washer Tapping screws.  A good dollop of Proflex over the heads will also protect and seal the whole thing against leaks.

My thoughts....others may differ.  If it is Aluminum....and you want it there, forever....3/16" Aluminum rivets with Aluminum washers will not react.  Only highly reactive metals like Brass and Aluminum cause issues.  Mate up those two puppies....they stay mated...

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2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

You should be OK with SS fasteners.  If you are REALLY worried, put in a fiber washer between the head and the tabs.  You do NOT want to use Brass Screws.....trust me on that....I used Aluminum valve cover caps on my GS's car and it had plain (UNPLATED) brass.  4 months in a salted road environment welded the caps on and I sheared a TPMS getting off the cap.  MOST TPMS are plated....not plain brass.  

SS is probably OK...but a nylon or rubber or fiber washer will seal the deal.  Amazon has LOADS of SS Hex Washer Tapping screws.  A good dollop of Proflex over the heads will also protect and seal the whole thing against leaks.

My thoughts....others may differ.  If it is Aluminum....and you want it there, forever....3/16" Aluminum rivets with Aluminum washers will not react.  Only highly reactive metals like Brass and Aluminum cause issues.  Mate up those two puppies....they stay mated...

I think I have some Tef-Gel on a shelf somewhere, for my boat...it does a good job of preventing dissimilar metal reaction.

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Frederic, look up the Anodic Index. It will give you a list of metals and their standing in the corrosion rank.

Gary 05 AMB DST

15 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

You should be OK with SS fasteners.  If you are REALLY worried, put in a fiber washer between the head and the tabs.  You do NOT want to use Brass Screws.....trust me on that....I used Aluminum valve cover caps on my GS's car and it had plain (UNPLATED) brass.  4 months in a salted road environment welded the caps on and I sheared a TPMS getting off the cap.  MOST TPMS are plated....not plain brass.  

SS is probably OK...but a nylon or rubber or fiber washer will seal the deal.  Amazon has LOADS of SS Hex Washer Tapping screws.  A good dollop of Proflex over the heads will also protect and seal the whole thing against leaks.

My thoughts....others may differ.  If it is Aluminum....and you want it there, forever....3/16" Aluminum rivets with Aluminum washers will not react.  Only highly reactive metals like Brass and Aluminum cause issues.  Mate up those two puppies....they stay mated...

A washer just prevents the head from touching the metal. The threaded portion is still in touch with the metal being screwed.

Gary 05 AMB DST

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22 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Frederic, look up the Anodic Index. It will give you a list of metals and their standing in the corrosion rank.

Gary 05 AMB DST

A washer just prevents the head from touching the metal. The threaded portion is still in touch with the metal being screwed.

Gary 05 AMB DST

No doubt, but the larger area of the hex washer face on the tab will promote the galvanic bimetallism reaction to occur faster.  The fiber washer will, for practical purposes, take much longer.  Since conductivity is also in the equation, covering the fastener head and the surrounding substrate, including the mating surfaces of the threaded portion and the tabs….that definitely will prolong, perhaps indefinitely, the major corrosion issues….just my understanding….

Use SS as it reacts much slower….if Aluminum fasters don’t have the tensile strength for the job

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