Full Wall Lippert Hydraulic Slide issues - 2011 Camelot

[Denny Wagaman]

My Lipperet Hydraulic system failed.  Initially I was told that just the pump could be ordered. Later was told that the complete  Lippert manifold had to be purchased instead. This system was installed in March of 2019 and the warranty has run out.  Because of  COVID The coach has not been used very much since that time.  In March of this year  one of the Hydraulic hoses  started leaking at the manifold and so the hose was replaced and at that time The fellows at Elite worked the slides in and out half a dozen times. I drove directly home (340 miles)  into my garage. The next morning tried to put the slides out individually and the front curbside slide stopped. I pushed the button again and the slide went in. The same thing happened with the full wall slide. I called Elite and was told it  sounded like the pump was the issue.  Because I had other things going on plus Elite's schedule was full plus  both my wife and I had COVID I wasn't able to get the coach into Elite until this last Monday.   Naturally the Warranty ran out about 5-6 months ago.  

Question: Does anyone know of someone in the NW that can just repair the actual pump?  Elite doesn't know of anyone that does the work. I was told that there wasn't a bushing put in place and when the pump works what is supposed to be a round hole becomes oblong which creates the issue of the slide stopping. Excuse me for not getting the correct definitions.  Elite RV in Harrisburg OR has always done anything that needs to done to my motor home. The manifold has to be made maybe two or three weeks.  

Any thoughts suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  

Denny Wagaman

2011 Camelot DFT 43 full wall slide

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Denny Wagaman said:

My Lipperet Hydraulic system failed.  Initially I was told that just the pump could be ordered. Later was told that the complete  Lippert manifold had to be purchased instead. This system was installed in March of 2019 and the warranty has run out.  Because of  COVID The coach has not been used very much since that time.  In March of this year  one of the Hydraulic hoses  started leaking at the manifold and so the hose was replaced and at that time The fellows at Elite worked the slides in and out half a dozen times. I drove directly home (340 miles)  into my garage. The next morning tried to put the slides out individually and the front curbside slide stopped. I pushed the button again and the slide went in. The same thing happened with the full wall slide. I called Elite and was told it  sounded like the pump was the issue.  Because I had other things going on plus Elite's schedule was full plus  both my wife and I had COVID I wasn't able to get the coach into Elite until this last Monday.   Naturally the Warranty ran out about 5-6 months ago.  

Question: Does anyone know of someone in the NW that can just repair the actual pump?  Elite doesn't know of anyone that does the work. I was told that there wasn't a bushing put in place and when the pump works what is supposed to be a round hole becomes oblong which creates the issue of the slide stopping. Excuse me for not getting the correct definitions.  Elite RV in Harrisburg OR has always done anything that needs to done to my motor home. The manifold has to be made maybe two or three weeks.  

Any thoughts suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  

Denny Wagaman

2011 Camelot DFT 43 full wall slide

Comment from close, but no cigar section.  Your Lippert system, due to the full side, is probably different….so, I am sort of piecing  together some bits and tidbits from other full slide wall owners but your Camelot may be different.  Do you have TWO hydraulic units like the Dynasty folks had… in some years.  They had the stock HWH UNIT for slides and genny.  The full wall was a separate unit whose system was installed mid coach and the regular slide, that the full wall replaced had the HWH Slide/genny has NO lines from the full?

If you have a “beefed up” Lippert that also runs the other front living section, then you only have one.

Just trying to clarify.  Now, my experience, and other Non full wall Camelot owners is that you will invest all most 60% of the replacement cost of a Motor replacement in the motor alone.  Amazon has been known to carry some aftermarket NON Lippert motors.  Varying success…installing a new pump motor is somewhat “tricky and iffy”.  Many, now is that 50% or 80% of 10% will result in a leak.  Lippert keeps changing the seals and such or even the design of the motor and pump.  Mine failed…older design with the bread box not supported hanging out there reservoir.  I put in a whole new unit.  The labor was not that much more….but it was plug and play and I got a new pump and valving and solenoids and such.  Plus, mine was the redesigned “non cantilevered” reservoir.

If you had a new unit in March 2019, then get the PN and such.  Call Lippert.  Make sure you go directly to parts.  They can look it up and give you information.  Tech Support for hydraulics at Lippert can NOT cross reference OEM models.  That is an internal gripe.  So you need the aftermarket PN for the whole unit snd the motor.

OK…aside from the failure, you need to do some digging.  There is (on mine) an upstream resettable circuit breaker that feeds the pump solenoid.  In some years, Monaco put in one that was twice the amperage.  Parts or tech support can give you the full load amps for the motor.  Add 15 or so…that is what should have been used.  Mine was 65…so an 80 was what was needed.  Monaco put in a 150.  Too complicated to explain why…but we know and it was stupidity and a mistake.

Bottom line, any good repair shops, including CW, can easily install the new package.  You could.  But the question….what causes the failure?  Hypothetically, if the manifold was nott designed for the higher, I would think, pressures needed for a full slide….has Lippert then   redesigned and upgraded.  I would want to know what is different, if anything from yiur aftermarket unit.  Tech support can look at the prints and rev levels and see if there was some beefing up.

My thoughts…may not be helpful …, but you learn a lot and are suspicious…

Maybe the real key is getting the proper adjustment on the slide… not a novice tech skill, then put in the right package and fix it right…

 

[Happycarz]

Are you saying when you pushed the button for the slide to go out the second time, that the slide went in? If so, it is not the pump nor the manifold, it is the revering solenoid on the backside of the manifold. There is a circuit board buried in the motor/solenoid harness. If it goes bad and doesn’t receive voltage the slide will only go in. If the buried PCB fails with the board supplying 12v continuously, the slide will only go out, and the reversing solenoid will be hot.

Would post some pictures of your Lippert motor/manifold/solenoid assembly? If the board went bad, you can buy the short harness separately. 

[Tom Cherry]

8 hours ago, Happycarz said:

Are you saying when you pushed the button for the slide to go out the second time, that the slide went in? If so, it is not the pump nor the manifold, it is the revering solenoid on the backside of the manifold. There is a circuit board buried in the motor/solenoid harness. If it goes bad and doesn’t receive voltage the slide will only go in. If the buried PCB fails with the board supplying 12v continuously, the slide will only go out, and the reversing solenoid will be hot.

Would post some pictures of your Lippert motor/manifold/solenoid assembly? If the board went bad, you can buy the short harness separately. 

Two comments.  Your system probably mirrors mine.  I do not think there is a “circuit board” as in some magical PCB.  If you look at the prints, and I haven’t dug into mine, the “circuit board” is nothing but 4 diodes.  They are in the wiring harness and you could dig and cut them out and replace easily from any online electronics supplier…if you read the specs.  If you looked at the circuit, you will see them.  Then follow the circuit.  They are designed to prevent back-feed voltage….  This was a “poor man’s” slide control system.  Instead of a complex controller with an IC chip(s) and relays and current sensors and such….the harness from the switches go directly to the pump but, there is the diode “circuit”.  When Lippert sells you a new system, they “include” (no charge”j a new slide control to match what you have. In our case…we do NOT have a slide controller…we have the Diode matrix…so it is plug and play.  Many techs don’t have a clue and replace the power pack or entire system…still no joy. Was just a shorted out diode….and either the new harness or replace the diode was the problem….happens too many times.

Second thing.  EDIT….we have no prints on 2011 Camelot.  Pulled his manual.  Despite the 50% or more “load” for a 42 ft Full Wall Slide, Monaco only has the same cut and paste as the 08 & 09.  If so, that is a heck of a load for the unit designed for a short, in comparison, drop down, flush floor slide….  I guess we see…END EDIT

He has the Full Wall Slide.  As I stated, it may, probably, is not like ours as it needs way more current for the motor as well as higher pressures and/or more flow capacity.  He also said, IIRC, that it was a leaking issue as well.  So, whatever might work for our’s might be totally different on his.  Could be WRONG…. But, based on doing all sorts of cycling tests and watching the speed and such, I seriously doubt that Lippert used the same stock motor or the 65 FLA one…that we have.

There is a whole lot MORE mass and length and friction and potential warpage….as in the balancing cylinder does more work.  I really wonder if he has 3 cylinders push/pull vs our 2….and then the balancing cylinder would have to be larger.

That’s my take as well as what I know…and stated as “fact” vs supposition…

[Tom Cherry]

@Denny Wagaman  OK…read and reread your post.  Here is what I know snd what I did.   HOPE that your new unit is the newer style.  Pulled your manual.  The picture of the “Jacks & Slides” unit is the reolacement.  The long canterleverd reservoir will fail even with a new motor…or,that is the experinece.

OK….from the top.

Disconnect House battery.  Go to the slide pump motor.  Disconnect one terminal.  Take off the cable.  Now, find a small wrench and tighten…snuggly, don’t twist it off, the small nut under where the cable was.  The motor studs get loose on the inside.  Tighten it good.  Clean and reassemble.  Do the other motor terminal.  Now the Solenoid needs to be cleaned.  Should NOT be a small nut.  Clean and reassemble.  Go to the FRB.  There is a resettable circuit breaker in the lower left.  The downstream side or cable goes to the solenoid.  

Here is where it gets tricky.  The 09 snd maybe forward had the WRONG size solenoid.  If you have the SAME unit as I do, thatmshould have veen a 80 A.  The 08’s were correct.  I changed mine out.  IF the motor studs were loose, high resistance.  Mine was a 150.  Order an 80 or even a 100….in csse Lippert put on a bigger motor.  You can call Lippert and find out what the rated or full load current.  The old and my new one was 65…if yours is lrger, add 15.

I ASSUMED you did look at the resettble circuit breaker in the FRB and it is NOT TRIPPED…lever down…reset it but do all the PM…

Now, look at the PN on your House disconnect switch.  Order s new one and put it in….yes…replace it.  I chased the same isues…except mine would go so slow…. If there is a high resistance contact in the Blue Seas, even half a volt, under load, the motor is overheating.  

NEXT TRICK….run your generator.  The House MUST be good….after fully charged…keep genny ON….mine would run slow.  

The FINAL issue, could be the solenoid.  Assume you have a VOM. Have wife run the slides.  When either switch is pushed, either way, there is a 12 VDC signal to the solenoid.  Measure the small terminals.  I DOUBT a new unit solenoid failure…. If no 12 VDC, then there is either a faulty voltage line to the center of the two switches or there is a problem in the harness…but you should get 12 VDC on the solenoid terminals regardless of which or which way.

NEXT…let her run the switches again.  The positive on the incoming side of the solenoid is alwasy HOT….check that.  Then cycle the slides.  You need 12 VDC on the motor….incoming GOOD to solenoid…but not to motor…bad solenoid.

NOW…a slow moving slide is a sign of low voltage.  The fix…and you can do it.  There are two big studs on the upper rifht of,the FRB PCB.  One is CHASSIS…other house.  With batteries disconnected, purchase  a jumper from NAPA and run a cable from the Chassis to the incoming cable on the lower right circuit breaker.  I installed a selector switch and run mine off chassis.  Just found a bad house switch…fixing that will  allow  me to go back to house.

thats all I know…  IF the motor is bad….get a new unit…but you have got to find the high resistance connection.  I had  two  shops and another member  and myself run current checks…all fine.  Drive and vibrate….low voltage…that is why I switched the battery bank…

 

[Happycarz]

Tom, those diodes you saw on the schematic are in the the mass of wires dangling behind and below the convenience center in the wall cavity.

My “magical circuit board,” as well as the ones in other folks who I have helped, is indeed incorporated in the “pony” harness. That harness has its own part number, and also will come with a new pump/motor assembly.

Lippert used a PCB to engage the reversing solenoid to direct the fluid flow to the ether the extending or the retracting ends of the slide cylinders. That reversing solenoid is on the rear side of the pump manifold and uses the harness white wire. When that solenoid has 12v to it, the fluid is directed to extend the slides. When no 12v is applied, the slides retract, hence my question to the OP.

While on a trip to New England 10 years, my hydraulic front slides failed to extend. I found the reversing solenoid hot to touch, and once I disconnected it the front hydraulic slides would extend. To retract, I temporarily plugged in the white wire.

After retuning to AZ, I contacted Lippert and bought a new harness. All better!

As I understand 12v automotive circuits, I dug out my schematics to find no mention of this harness extension. Curious as I am, I tore into old harness, only to find the “magical PCB.”  Once I dissected the harness and I drew a schematic of the circuit, I found the operation  easy to understand.  

I am attaching a picture of that schematic, though resolution drops significantly when posting such. (Maybe you could help me with as to how to post higher resolution pictures, or files.)

If this harness were to become obsolete, I would think a Bosch style cube relay with a fly back diode would suffice as a replacement to the board. As I have drawn such circuit, I should run it by Frank for his opinion. 

I hope understanding the above makes it easier for you to help others  I also realize the above pertains to 2008 and 2009 Camelot's and their sisters.  I’m not sure if Monaco and Navistar continued to use the same Lippert systems in the OP’s coach. If he is able to post pictures, we will know.

 

 

[96 EVO]

I've had the same issue as Harry, with the reversing solenoid smoking hot, hours after trying to retract the front slides!

He walked me through what I needed to do to get my slides retracted.

Uncovered the PCB, heavily taped into the harness, and allowed it to dry out. All worked fine after that, and I didn't need a harness replacement 👍!

[Tom Cherry]

OK....sit down and gather round.  This is what Lippert told me....  First....  LOOK AT THE PRINTS....

156844 - THAT is my NEW pump assembly shipped from Lippert.  Note in the lower RIGHT corner that there is a bill of materials.  Item 2 has on it a Deutsch Slide Only Harness. PN 369701.  

NOW....open the 369701 Wiring Harness Loom Lippert.  That is the print that they sent me when I asked for a detail on the plug and play "harness" or the Deutsch Connector details.  Look carefully around the area where the Process Control Stamp number is "overlaid....specifically under the 793 AREA.  Also NOTE that there are the callouts for the wiring and sizes and such.  THAT is what was SHIPPED with my pump....which was ordered on 10/16/2020.  The Invoice shows the PUMP and also the Loom or the harness.  So, I got the whole enchalida...  New Pump and New Harness so it would Plug and Play into my existing Monaco harness from the slide switches.  NOTE....there are NO electronic components inside.  The tech said that the harness I received had absolutely NO INTERNAL electronics and could not find the OLDER versions.  

OK...NEXT PRINT.  369701.PDF.  I called Lippert and the tech just sent me this print.  You will NOTICE that the Rev Level on this print, in the title block is "A".  THAT coincides with the Info in the pictures....also note the Process change gate....the print is behind...but the picture of the NEW harness is correct and that is the print for it.  NOW, look above the 10/14/2021 date.  BINGO....there IS an electronic component inside.  BUT, it is NOTHING more than a 1 Amp Diode.  So, without exploratory surgery, there is ONLY ONE Diode inside.  

OK....NEXT PRINT....Living Slideouts....  Notice how the circuits work.  I ASSUME from the pictures that the reddish-pinkish heat shrink tubing is the DIODES in the Living Slideout Prints.  As I said, I have NOT dug into my control panel and pulled out the harness on the switches.  BUT, from the pictures, it looks like they should be there.  NOW...a CAVEAT....from Monaco.  Monaco threw in Diodes....once something was wrong and they figured it out.  Case in point....DIRECTLY from Jim, the old time Tech when Monaco and Navistar had tech support.  On the Camelots, and presumably other models with the simple "Tank Level" lights.  There were FOUR different drawings.  The Tank Monitor (one you have on the control panel) had TWO DIFFERENT drawings.  One WITH Diodes and one WITHOUT Diodes.  Not the ACTUAL tank or the fresh, gray and black "INSIDE THE BAYS" harnesses also had TWO different drawings... One WITH Diodes and one WITHOUT Diodes.  The "assemblers were to SUPPOSED to get one or the other and make sure that there was only ONE set of diodes in the circuit.  So, a Remote with Diodes....was used with a Tank harness with NONE.  GUESS WHAT....they shipped a LOT with TWO harnesses with DIODES.....NOT GONNA WORK.. They also shipped a lot with NO DIODES....NOT GONNA WORK.  The system only works with a set of diodes in ONE harness....not two and will NOT work with No Diodes....Jim gave the specs for the diodes and the polarity, so a buddy fixed his.

Therefore...  Monaco is not exactly consistent in WHERE they mount Diodes...but the pictures, hopefully, tells me MINE are inside behind the control panel.

THUS....there PROBABLY and I certainly don't dispute the pictures, a PCB in the harness.  BUT, then later on....  NO internal Electronics (PCB) and THEN, a Diode.  All I know....mine worked from day one and all the installer did was unplug the connector on my old pump and plugged in the new connector.  Lippert had BOTH Tech Support and Parts verify exactly WHAT I had....  

That's it....NOW the pony harness does NOT have the PCB....and had nothing for awhile....but the Rev A does NOW have a diode...and the tech said... I HAVE NO IDEA....you know more about this than I do, but you have the prints...

I also have NO idea if one pulled out the PCB, how to rewire it as the tech could NOT find that old print....and I assume that if I ever have a harness problem that I will buy a NEW one with the Diode... (Rev A) unless they have a Rev B.

@Denny Wagaman  UNLESS your replacement power pack had the PCB inside it....then that COULD well be the issue....I can't diagnose it.  BUT, if Harry and Ben said they had issues....who knows.  You will have, if you are of such a mind, to do some exploratory surgery.  IF it has the PCB, then order the new one...but call parts and tech support.  The tech support person said that Parts, sometimes had MORE hands on knowledge than the did and also understood the compatibilityh and which PN or superceded PN was required.  It was a very easy task...no more than 10 minutes and they were SHARP...

 

 

156844 New Pump Assembly.pdf 369701 Wiring Harness Loom Lippert Print.pdf 369701.pdf Living Slideouts.pdf

[Tom Cherry]

@Denny Wagaman

OK...her is how you test if you want to trouble shoot and have a VOM or have a friend with a VOM.  

Look at the print....  Disconnect the 8 pin connector that goes to the pump.  You want to put the meter probes on the HOUSE side or the side coming from the switches.

You MIGHT have to get the color codes from the Pump side....they are colored.   Start with one side.  Have you wife push the Full Slide button, either way.  There should be, with the meter grounded and set to voltage the following. Look at the bottom of the print....where it says MOTOR.  The MOTOR is actually the SOLENOID contacts...

Try the Full Slide.  Either way.  ONE of these TWO pins should have POWER of 12 VDC to Ground.  Pin 5 (Gray) or Pin 4, (white).  IF Neither have power, there is either a problem in the upstream diodes or the power to the switch.  I assume you know that there is an IGNITION lock out so if the ignition key is ON...NO WORK.  That can be defeated, but will not go there yet...  

If there is power on Pin5, GRAY.....then when she pushes it one way, there will be power also on either pin 1 (Brown) or Pin 2 Orange.  SO  IF you have 12 VDC on Pin 5, the GRAY....then when that switch is in the RETRACT OR IN position, Power will STILL be on the GRAY, but also on the ORANGE or PIN 2.  Push the switch to the OUT or EXTEND....Still power on the GRAY, but Pin 1, the BROWN will have power.  If that works....then lets do the next one..

OK....go to the other switch....or the opposite slide....Push it EITHER WAY....Pin 4 or the WHITE should have power.  NOW, same as before.  Hold the switch to the RETRACT or IN position....then Pin 2, the ORANGE will have power....as well as Pin 4, White.  NOW, hold it to the EXTEND or OUT position.  Pin 4, White will STILL have power and there should be POWER on pin 1, BROWN. 

IF THAT WORKS....then the issue is NOT in the switches or the DIODES....it have to be in the Harness or the PUMP. 

Plug back in the harness.  SO....now, lets test the solenoid....assuming you have power from the circuit breaker in the FRB... Look at the PRINT....the "MOTOR" is actually the solenoid....so we test there.... DO the same test.  You will have to label which is the FULL and which is the OTHER....  In the DRAWING...  When you get power on Pin 5, GRAY, that is the ROAD side....so whichever side gave you power on Pin 5, then when you plug the harness back in....and push that side...to get power on Pin 5, there should be POWER  on the POSITIVE side of the Solenoid.  You can put the meter on continuity or ohms and ground it out.  Then whichever terminal is GROUND, put the meter on Volts and then test.  Pushing either one of the slide, either way will START or close the solenoid and the pump should run....  If there is NO power to the solenoid....then there is an issue in the harness.  Same for the OTHER switch....if you do NOT have power, either way, from either switch to the solenoid....then harness...

You can test the IN and OUT solenoids the same.  Pin 1 (OUT) Brown on the two hydraulic valves or solenoid should be there when EITHER switch is in the OUT POSITION OR EXTEND....likewise,,,push either switch....then Pin 2 (Orange) should have power for IN or RETRACT.  

You have checked the switch signals....if they are sending out the correct signals...but either the valves or the solenoid...and BOTH have to have signals....the SOLENOID to turn on the PUMP and the Direction solenoid on the valve to allow the fluid to flow...

The FINAL TEST...  IF you have a Jump Pack for starting a car....then if you Hook the Negative to the GROUND (back...memory) terminal of the motor and then touch or briefly make contact on the motor with the positive and the motor turns....then the motor is trying to turn...but NOTHING...there is an internal short inside the motor.  I FINALLY, killed mine....deliberately and had to do the Drill trick to get the slides in.  BUT, I knew the motor was not getting sufficient voltage and the windings inside were damaged.

That's as much help as I can be....

Living Slideouts.pdf

[96 EVO]

3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK....sit down and gather round.    New Pump and New Harness so it would Plug and Play into my existing Monaco harness from the slide switches.  NOTE....there are NO electronic components inside.  The tech said that the harness I received had absolutely NO INTERNAL electronics and could not find the OLDER versions.  

 

Lippert may have changed things between my '08 and your '09, but, with HANDS ON experience, I'll believe my eyes and hands, over any Lippert 'Tech' you may have spoke to 😉!

I recall Harry chuckling when I told him my hand's were filthy from unravelling about 5 feet of black electrical tape from that harness to expose the board!! 

 

156844 New Pump Assembly.pdf 325.37 kB · 1 download 369701 Wiring Harness Loom Lippert Print.pdf 429.34 kB · 2 downloads 369701.pdf 93.77 kB · 1 download Living Slideouts.pdf 80.2 kB · 1 download

 

Edited September 15, 2023 by 96 EVO

[Happycarz]

Apparently mine has no board according to Lippert. I was sure mine did.  My mistake. I was just trying to help the OP. 
I’ll butt out.

Edited September 15, 2023 by Happycarz
Verbiage

[96 EVO]

With everyone working from home, Tech support may mean pausing your 'Dungeons & Dragon's' game, till you get the caller off the line 😂!!

[Tom Cherry]

44 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

With everyone working from home, Tech support may mean pausing your 'Dungeons & Dragon's' game, till you get the caller off the line 😂!!

Ben, this is getting out of hand.  If you reread the posts. My unit failed because of the motor overheating.  No idea what was in my my original Deutsch connection cable.  Lippert told me and confirmed that my Monaco supplied harness with the diodes would work with the new assembly.  I trust my “hands” or the hands of the tech that installed it and it worked.

Lippert said they could not find the original one that was in ours….assuming they were probably the same.  The new unit that I bought came with the a new connector, 369701.  It works…with my current diode harness.  As an Engineering Manager in several different plants, it is not surprising that the prints for your connector, probably my original, as well, are buried in a print cabinet in the basement and never scanned.  You fixed yours.  If it breaks, then Lippert will sell you a 360791 Rev A as that is the current rev level.  It should work with your pump…unless Lippert says otherwise.  I think that Harry has confirmed that the Rev A works…

That’s about it,  You have the PCB version.  That is discontinued or been superseded.  Pull the PN and see if  Lippert says the current replacement is the 369701 Rev A. Or not….as long as it works…but now you have the correct information in case you need one.

There appears to be no electronics, per the print, in my current 369701.   Harry confirmed that the print I posted, which they sent, does not have the PCB, but a diode… and it works in his 08…and you have an 08.  

That’s about it.  This sidebar needs to die and focus on solving Denny’s problem….Lippert has made changes…three that we can identify….why, nary a clue….

Thanks for understanding.

 

[Happycarz]

Might be some confusion going on here.

My original harness had a PCB in the harness. The 2014 replacement harness has a PCB in it as well. Both these harnesses were a “universal” harnesses, as there were three unused connectors in both. When I received the replacement harness in 2014, I did not need, nor want, the three extra connectors just dangling about, like the OE harness. I open the harness and removed the unused circuits. At the same time, I observed the PCB in the new one, too. The PCB’s had black heat shrink wrapping.

The slide circuit schematic shows diodes in the circuit. These are located in the cavity behind the switches and have red heat shrink covering them.

Getting back to the OP, I would like to verify his Lippert pump unit so we can help him.  That is not the case now. We know his year, and his certainly could have a different type of control. We don’t know.  Once we see his Lippert unit, we can go forward from there.

Picture shows the diodes with the red heat shrink, pulled out from behind the slide switches. This is just for reference in case somebody needs to find them.

 

 

[96 EVO]

Harry, didn't we 'think' one or two of the extra connectors was likely for a hyd generator slide that would have come in some models?

[Happycarz]

Yes, the Beaver Contessa has a hydraulic slide, but not sure about yours. With hydraulic gen slide it would require one or two of the three “spare” connectors that  I removed. The Camelot gen slide is a manual slide. 

[Guest Ray Davis]

11 hours ago, Happycarz said:

The Camelot gen slide is a manual slide. 

I'll declare,  I didn't know some were manual.  It's still a slide tho, right?  You just pull it out & push it in?   If so you could really hurt some fingers, or so it seems.

I've thought that a 12v actuator like on my gate could work in place of the hydraulic cylinder on my gen slide.   Something like this.   

[96 EVO]

2 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

I'll declare,  I didn't know some were manual.  It's still a slide tho, right?  You just pull it out & push it in?   If so you could really hurt some fingers, or so it seems.

I've thought that a 12v actuator like on my gate could work in place of the hydraulic cylinder on my gen slide.   Something like this.   

Yes, still a slide.

I push right on the center of it, so no chance of getting a finger pinched.

[Happycarz]

I had two Dynasty’s with the hydraulic generator slide before this Camelot. It is so much easier accessing the generator on the manual slide with a quick roll out, instead of holding the button and waiting for the generator slide to extend, or retract.

The key is to make sure you lube the rollers, clean the tracks, and also lube and adjust the latching mechanisms. When I clean and lube my entry door latch and strikers, I do same with the generator slide. Mine moves so easily that I use a prop stick to hold it open if the front of the coach is slightly uphill. Otherwise it will close on its own.

I have cleaned, lubed and adjusted many manual generator slides for friends that struggle to open theirs. It’s sort of a pet peeve with me. Those slides should glide freely.  

 

 

 

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Ray Davis said:

I'll declare,  I didn't know some were manual.  It's still a slide tho, right?  You just pull it out & push it in?   If so you could really hurt some fingers, or so it seems.

I've thought that a 12v actuator like on my gate could work in place of the hydraulic cylinder on my gen slide.   Something like this.   

Briefly …history, and not calling you out, we ALL suffer from thinking our MH is just like everyone else.  This “mentality”, from our moderating staff’s perspective, often results in many knowledgeable members offering advice and troubleshooting guidance that is 180 degrees wrong and  in some electrical cases, a novice can do additional damage.  We try to be tactful, but sometimes it is difficult to get the person offering advice as well as the person receiving the advice to understand….there ARE differences…..thanks for letting me state that….

AS TO THE ORIGINAL ISSUES….and also give you a brief history lesson….The lower food chains, like the Diplomats, Knights, Ambassadors, Endeavors, etc. never did, nor were planned to have the powered Genny slides.  Again, in general, the Windsor was a higher food chain and well built and coveted then and now..  

The Windsor was last produced in 2006.  Do NOT know about the chassis and such, but the electrical system in the Camelot/Scepter was the same as Windsor.  The Monaco primts verify that.  There were no 2007 Windsors.  The 2006 Windsor had POWERED.  The 2006 Camelot/Scepter did NOT.  So, the TOP of the lower food chain (Dynasty being the low end of the UPPER) did NOT have power…whether there were special built or such… This is from our Prints and the Brochures.

To make it simple…and sort out the issues that seem to take priority over solving Denny’s problem.  BEST GUESS…Monaco reworked the Electrical system in 2008 on Scepter/Camelot.  That did NOT include an optional or standard power genny slide.  The 2008 had cirvuit breaker protection for the 2008 CORRECT…an 80 A for a 65 FLA hydraulic motor…as specified by Lippert.

In late 2008, there was a drawing change, MOST LIKELY, to add an OPTIONAL or maybe STANDARD Power slide.  But, it appears that it might have been a standalone…NOT part of the front slide system.  OR they were idiots…and installed a 150A CB…on s circuit that should have been protected at 80.  I fell victim…and over the years, sorted this out and our 2009 Camelot prints have a warning and recommendation to put in the correct CB.  

Denny has an 11, that was the first full slide year Camelot, I THINK…the 2010 were mostly stranded 2009 and probably some “from scratch” builds…but very few. Thus, was stated early on, we do NOT know exactly what was inside.  BUT, if you sit down, noodle out, and look at the prints, odds are….he MAY have only one unit.  If you look at the 2009 primts, a Genny Slide will work….but is UNUSED pigtail was used on the slide system.  That is logical in that Lippet had one STANDARD wiring harness or cable.  My original, as I suspect Ben and Harry’s have several 2 pin connectors that just dangle.  If you look at the 369701 REV A print as wells as study the 09 Camelot….if Denny has a single unit….then he can test and verify the control circuit as well as the Harness.

THAT IS WHAT IS IMPORTANT….

 

[96 EVO]

Just going from my own experience, the first thing I would suggest Denny do, is feel all of the solenoids on the sides of the hydraulic pump, checking for a hot solenoid!

[Happycarz]

To differentiate the 2008 & 2009 Beaver Contessa from its sisters, the Camelot and the Scepter, a power generator slide was installed. Monaco placed the Contessa at a higher level, albeit a small one.

I sure hope the OP, Denny, chimes back in.

[Denny Wagaman]

MODERATOR EDIT

The following was a new topic for an ongoing issue.  It has been merged with the original.  OP has been contacted and advised that duplicates are not permitted.  In addition to making a list of the questions and additional information requested.  Post that and some pictures of the Pump Assembly....would be helpful.  From a response standpoint...It would be helpful to wait until the OP has posted the additional information, as well as the summary of "We need to know this.." Otherwise, this is just a repetious  tail chasing exercise. Thanks in advance. 

@Denny Wagaman, Please review the past comments and take a few notes of what has been requested and then respond so that members have a more complete understanding...such as .. STOPPED?  Did the motor shut off or quit pumping and the slide control button was released?  How long do you wait between the cycles? Is the motor hot. 

It is also suggested that you review the connection and cabling recommendations and perform those simple tasks and see if that improves it or has no impact on the pump.  

Thanks,

END OF EDIT

Last week I posted about my pump for a full wall slide and a front slide...that  I was told that the pump needs to be replaced by a company that I have worked with for years. Lippert Tech support and others said as long as the pump is working the problem is not the pump.  I also said that a hydraulic line to the full wall slide had been replaced and that the workmen worked the slide in and out until the pump became hot.  Then I drove 340 miles home put the motor home away (heated garage) and the next day the slide would go out, stop and I would have to depress the button again to get the slide working.  The far or rear of the slide would last not evenly like it did before the line was replaced.  Anyway I am wondering if the hydraulic line wasn't bled enough and there still is air in the line making the full wall slide slide work but stop then press the button again and it continues. The full wall slide continues to do pretty much the same thing now it goes out in one shot but bringing it back in it takes 3 button presses to get it all in.  Any more thoughts?

Secondly I cleaned the three steel slides that are under the floor exterior of the full wall slide that runs in and out and into and out of a steel sleeve. I have second thoughts today of what I did yesterday  because I removed the grease seemed to be baked on.  It took me several hours to scrape the sometimes crusted grease off. Now what do I do? what grease do I put on those three steel bars? Spraying silicone on the bars isn't the answer.

Third -  what is the correct way to bleed the new line that was installed in March?

thanks,

Denny Wagaman

2011 Monaco Camelot DFT 43

[96 EVO]

They should be self bleeding.

Just cycling the slides out / in should bleed any air.

When the slide(s) reach full out / in, keep holding the switch for a few extra seconds.

Edited September 17, 2023 by 96 EVO

[Tom Cherry]

Got a few OFFLINE emails from the OP, Denny.  This thing is getting complicated....and he is going to do the PM on the motor.  What he says...  The smaller slide (normal like all we Camelot/Scepter owners have) works like a dream.

His issue...the Pump "STOP" or the slide stop on the FULL WALL.  I THINK, maybe a mechanical problem...but sorting it out.  From a PM...

I do keep pressing the top of the rocker to make sure the slide is set in place.  The rear of the full wall stops about 12 inches from going completely in (After the front is in place) Even if I continue to hold it down for another couple of seconds  the sounds eventually goes off so its the same thing  Then he states in a second PM...

just went out to the garage.  The motor stops!

I don't pretend to be a hydraulics expert on the Lippert.  All I know is after watching mine for 300 or so times in and out...especially the Drop Down or the larger slide, that mine will sort of "walk" or self correct as it moves.  That is the same for the smaller one and it does NOT drop down.  The ends move at slightly different speeds, but when one end gets ahead, the other catches up.  I would guess and Ben and Harry might chime in, that the two ends of the slides never gets more a couple...maybe 4" at max, out of "alignment".  and YES, typically, one end will seat...but it is just a fraction of a second and the gap on the other is less than an inch and it just "keeps" moving.

If there are any Camelot Full Slide folks, please comment....

That's it.  He is going to do the PM and also try the Jumper Cables from the Chassis...and have the Genny running to get max voltage....  Mine, since it is running off the Chassis and does not have the half volt drop on the House runs smoother and faster now...and I will replace the switch and that might have been the original issue for me.

He might post or contact me and I'll relay...