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2003 Windsor - Driver Side Slide Stuck.


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Well...I figured out my basement door problem, but now I have my driver side slide out and cannot get it back in....

It starts coming in but after a couple of inches in the front top seems to get "stuck" and then it starts to rack with the rear still coming in but front top does not?  Then it binds up.  I tried lowering the driver side to let it not hang as much but that doesn't help.

Any ideas?  It's a gear driven system not hydraulic.  Coach is a 2002 (Moderator EDIT…Profile & Signature list 2003] Monaco Windsor 40DST.

Thanks!

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On the front of the slide between the window and the outer flange, there's that black cover piece. I believe that controls the slide movement. There should be one on the end wall. There is something that controls the slide movement. I'm sure someone will explain it. My neighbor had a problem with his. I never got involved because my slides don't have it.

Gary 05 AMB DST

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Thank you Duncan.... you are exactly right... I had extended the slide then it would not come back in.  I found that exact shear pin missing (I had the same experience with the rear shear pin a few months ago) which I replaced tonight but the slide seems "racked" in the opening so I need to figure out how to get it back aligned so it will come in and out correctly.

Does anyone have a diagram of how these slides operate?  How do I adjust the alignment?  I am looking online for information but appears very difficult to find information.

Thank you!

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Does anyone have any details on how the flush floor slide operates that you can share?  Coach is a 2003 Monaco Windsor 40DST. This is the roadside slide, flush floor with electric gear drive.

I searched all last night and it seems that there are no rollers, the Teflon straps are just a couple years old, the floor under the slide appears solid (no rot or sag) and I replaced the missing shear pin.

I am trying to learn what are the components of this slide and how do they interact to extend and retract the slide. 

Any insight is greatly appreciated!

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Lance:

 

I will give you a call today and discuss the slide issue and give you a few items to look at. I am very sorry I didn't call last night. I have a coach in for repairs right now that wore me out and I went to bed early. I call it the coach from hell. ( Got hit bad by lightning and the devil has taken up residence inside it. )

The slide you are referring to by the way is an HWH slide. They are not an easy slide to work on or adjust. You can do a lot of damage adjusting HWH slides if you do not have the knowledge base to perform the work. I will do what I can over the phone so you can at least get the slide in and get the coach to me.

 

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Chris, no worries at all, I can only imagine how busy you are!!  Thank you for the info on what slide type it is... mine has that power gear system so I thought it was Lippert type!!  I was going to head over to the RV sometime this afternoon and work from there and check a few things as it seems like the front rail is binding shortly after retraction activation!  I appreciate anything you can share to get me back on track and then I can get down to you when I can!

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We were able to get our front slide in but to put it back out it is bound against the front frame and is hanging up. I was planning on trying to put it out while pushing the slide out and to the rear at the same time…will this cause more problems? We discontinued using the slide for fear of having problems while we were away. Now that we are home after a 4.5 month Alaska trip, we have ordered most of the parts for repair- house cutoff switch, kwikee step motor. While away we had to replace the coach battery and kitchen faucet and 5 chips on the windshield repaired. We have to configure a end bracket for windshield driver shade, replace heater blower motor, repair ladder mounts, reattach bedroom slide gear( somebody tried to put slide in while the engine was running, me), replace hot water element, reglue kitchen cabinet door. That is just the big stuff! But the trip was so worth it!!

Sharon

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to 2003 Windsor - Driver Side Slide Stuck.
2 hours ago, malcoll said:

That's one busy trip!  I am heading over today to see if I can figure this mess out on our roadside slide, wish me luck!

Comment from the Peanut Gallery.  Chris is in Brookeville…maybe 2 hours from you.  The shear pin issue has been going on, based on my memory over 14 years, and the “debate” is…”WHY was there a Shear Pin instead of a high strength bolt?”  As a retired Director - “All sorts of disciplines”, who managed several large maintenance departments and had many instances where a shear pin would break….and shut down a critical machine….the debate with my techs was….

Why did the design Engineer put in a shear pin….?  Was he that smart or copied a design and was lazy?  We would make a judgement call after “the best minds….as in my maintenance techs would logically discuss the application and we knew the pros and cons of replacing the pin with a bolt and the consequences….

My RECOLLECTION was that many DID, in the past go with a grade 8….but MOST….like one of our founders and a cracker jack graduate Mechanical Engineer were really concerned about breaking things…..so definitely NOT a Grade 8….maybe some members will have more details or recollections as they might have had to make the call.  BUT…..READ THE FOLLOWING 

BUT, a FULL THREADED Bolt, the same diameter will have less Tensile or Shear Strength than a shear pin of the same diameter….since the threads cut into the shank or blank….

FOR EXAMPLE….suppose you had the following….

1/4” Cold Rolled Shear Pin….  63,800 PSI.  Don’t stress over the “units”….just follow the math

1/4-20 Plain Grade 2 bolt…think stove bolt…..55,000 or 14% WEAKER….or will shear QUICKER….

1/4-20 Grade 5 Bolt.  It has been hardened…to make it stronge….85,000   Or 1.33 TIMES or 33% STRONGER…..so, you have PROBABLY gone past the usual “Engineering Safety Factor” of 25%.  Therefore, it MAY (Probably?)….damage the motor or drive and you got a REAL ISSUE $$$$$.

1/4-20 Grade 8 Bolt.  Higher strength steel and more “exotic” hardening to make it SUPER STRONG…..120,000 Or 1.88 TIMES or 88% or dadgummed NEAR Double.  Let the slide bind….then 

Bottom LINE…Grade 5 is the maximum and it MUST BE a fully threaded bolt…NOT a solid shank with threads on the end….

 

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  • Solution

Well...I believe the origin of this problem is the front shear pin broke.  Then I was trying in/out maneuver and got it all out if time between front and rear gear packs.....then I had inadvertently dumped the airbags.

So today I pulled all the pins and got the gears better aligned, then it was still binding in the upper front corner took me a few beverages to realize I had dumped all the air....I aired up the system got to "trave" height and now the slide goes in and out and in and out like it's supposed to. 

I would say, there is a need to keep it at or close to travel height on suspension when moving slides in and out...that was a journey!

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