No HWH Hydraulic Slides

[Trevor and Laura]

Hi Everyone,

                    On Wednesday we had to move, only a short drive so we slept in and planned to leave around 11.00am, when Laura went to bring the slides in we had no noise from the HWH Hydraulics under the steps of our 2006 Dynasty, thought maybe I had heard "something" intitially, but certainly not the motor and pump. We have 3 hydraulic room slides and the gennie, the DS bedroom is electric and came in fine. This was our first big panic, started searching for fuses, found some in the closet related to the controls, Intellitec? all small and not blown. Knew the parking brake had to be on, cycled it a few times, still no go. Have the big book of wiring diagrams, but where to start. One thought was to just get 12v to the HWH motor terminal, but concerned about causing more issues.

Decided to bother Tom Cherry, who had been super helpful teaching me about the operation of the charging system, he once again spent too long walking me through things, got Frank McElroy involved and I learnt a lot, where the big DC breakers are located and the motor relay, as well as the intellitec board in the FRB.

We ended up with a HWH tech on the phone, he okayed jumpering 12v to the motor, did that from our toad, Laura pushed the switches and in they came, panic over and we were on the road... problem not fixed, but good to know the motor and individual controls all work. Put the slides out the same way, yesterday was wet and this morning I have been underneath with a volt meter. I am still confused, the relay for the motor has me concerned, it is not dead, but I am not seeing what I was expecting. The large studs look good, 12v on one coming in and the other connected to the +ve terminal of the motor, which grounds through it's mounting bolts and we know it runs fine.. There are 2 small connections to power the coil, I believe 1 should be blue, providing a ground when the parking brake is on and the other grey, sending a 12v signal from the Intellitec switches/controller when any of the slide switches are made. The wire colours are not distinguishable, neither terminal has continuity to ground or reads 12v when a switch is pushed... but both do give a very low voltage reading, maybe 1/4volt, one was .2v going to .4v when the switch was made.

Next I used my external 12v across the small coil terminals, expecting to maybe hear maybe a click, but then that big HWH motor burst into life, but instead there was whatsounded like something low powered spinning and not labouring at all..  certainly not just a solenoid clicking. The relay is a Trombetta 603, not finding that number, but there are equivalents, 100A, 4 terminal, insulated, I will be finding a new one, Trombetta with no nuts or a knock off with nuts and $10 cheaper??? Had enough under there, not thinking straight, wish I had put a screwdriver across the big terminals..

Why am I not seeing a ground from the parking brake or 12 volts from the slide switch? Why the unexpected noise when I put 12v to the coil. There is NO noise down there from a slide switch..  It seems as if multiple problems arrived at the same time, I am not used to that..

Any help will be welcome, we are here for 2 wks.

Many thanks, and a Happy New Year

[waterskier_1]

I'll just throw something out there.  I don't have a multiplex system so don't know if it applies, but I suspect that more than just the Park Brake has to be set to enable the slide switches.  Mine has to have all the bay doors reporting closed.  It has to have the engine off.  I'm not sure what, if anything else has to be satisfied before the system is enabled.  Might not be applicable.

  -Rick N.

 

[Marine Boy]

Just to share a one time problem I had.  I do have what sounds like the same system/Dynasty you have.  When I had a problem with slides not working, through trouble shooting, I found out that the motor circuits and solenoids circuits were controlled by different relay boxes in multiplex system, so I jumped it at the multiplex box in the PS rear closet and got it to work.  So after thinking about it and reading some blogs, there were comments about sometime the multiplex needs to be reset, which is just powering down the complete electrical system by turning off the main battery switches in the PS rear battery compartment for minute or two.  This will reboot the multiplex system.  This fixed my problem that happened almost a year ago.

Easy thing to try.

[dennis.mcdonaugh]

Check your bay door switches. They have interlocks and must be closed to activate the slides. 

[Tom Cherry]

19 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

I'll just throw something out there.  I don't have a multiplex system so don't know if it applies, but I suspect that more than just the Park Brake has to be set to enable the slide switches.  Mine has to have all the bay doors reporting closed.  It has to have the engine off.  I'm not sure what, if anything else has to be satisfied before the system is enabled.  Might not be applicable.

  -Rick N.

 

Frank and I went through the Multiplex system and the HWH.  There IS, as you suspected, a "HEY....you can move your slide" signal. If you pull the prints, the A Module, Pin 5, is a 12 VDC Signal to a relay that MUST me close before the HWH Controller will send the Pump Start signal to the Solenoid.

Trevor and I spent quite a bit of time on the phone and I texted him more details afterwards.

NOW, if you also pull the print, there is a DIFFERENT circuit for the Manual Generator Slide function. There is a 7.5 A fuse on board 7 Upfront. He checked that fuse. OK. He did not have a volt meter handy and did not do any readings as this was a MUST GET IT IN situation. If you look at the OUTPUT of the Genny Slide Switch, it is tied directly to the feed of signal wire that comes from MPX Module 1 Pin 5. So, that manual circuit bypasses, as we think it was designed, the MPX signal.

The way the MPX works is this. He had 3 slides. There is an EXTEND and RETRACT signal for each slide. So, on the MPX module, there are 6 circuits dedicated to the Retract and Extend. Each one of then also sends a CLOSE or signal to the MPX Mod A Pin 5. If you check the lights and watch it.  When any slide extend or retract is on on the MPX...you have ONE light for that particular function as well as the Mod A Pin 5.

Therefore, the MPS issue was ruled out as the manual Genny Switch would not work.

Hope that clears it up.

 

[Trevor and Laura]

Thank You for those thoughts, we powered down the DC and took the dogs for a walk, made sure that it killed those modules in the closet, condition was the same as... trying the rear pass side out hydraulic switch there are 2 sequential clicks and 2 lights on, module A, 4th down, and module E, 5th from top, but no hydraulic pump...  While in there I noticed some of the fuses in the E mod have been replaced with larger ones, a 15A even for a 2A, not ideal, and I used our last 15A when I blew the map light fuse.. 

The bay doors are all closed, still have to look at the switches, would Monaco have not used the same safeties for our 1 electric slide? next job? still plan to jump the large relay terminals just to be sure.. a new relay is ordered, Trombetta #684 1261 212, do not know that it is needed, but good to have; 12v across the coil now and it makes noises, but no noise from it with the switches. In my head a semi elegant work around will be to move the big cables to the new relay, hang it with cable ties and jury rig new control wires with a switch to turn the motor on... thoughts.

Obviously we need a real fix, so will be working / thinking about this..

Thanks again, Trevor in cool Arcadia FL

[Tom Cherry]

TREVOR and others....

Trevor and I just talked and went over all his issues.  When he said he applied power to the solenoid and it made a funny sound, that was power from this FIAT...not from the MH circuits.

He has a new relay coming in. He will install it.  Then that eliminates that.  If it still doesn't work, he has a manual switch that will suffice until he gets more time.

That's it...

Here are the PRINTS that are the main ones.

He DID confirm that the MPX "OK TO RUN" Circuit 5 or Pin 5 on the MPX Mod A is working and every time they try a different switch...the MPX appears to be OK and sends out the direction on which slide, but also the OK to run as well..

Same for the Generator Manual Switch.

SO, if the relay does NOT solve it, then he will have to dig deeper.

 

2006 DYNASTY HWH Control Circuit.pdf HWH Slide Switches and MPX interface - 2006 Dynasty.pdf

[Terry R]

I had a similar problem with my 2007 Dynasty a few years ago.  I am going from memory as the Dynasty is in FL set up for the winter and I am currently in NC.

In my situation, the pump turn on signal was being generated by the MUX correctly.  My problem was at the HWH control box (on firewall above the generator - with the clear plexiglas cover).  The signal was making it to the control box but the pump control relay inside the box had failed.

Instead of trying to find a relay and repair the board, I used a Bosch relay to bypass the bad relay.  I mouned the new relay on the firewall, picked up 12 V from a spare circuit in the front run bay and ran it through the normally open contacts of the Bosch to the start solenoid on the pump motor.  I removed the plexiglas to access the pump start signal that I connected to the coil of the Bosch.  The other side of the Bosch coil went to ground.  Now when the MUX tells the pump to start the Bosch relay provides 12V to activate the Pump motor solenoid.

Hope this helps.  I don't think I marked the changes on my schematics so can't provide one.  Your Dynasty wiring may or may not be like mine.

 Terry R

2007 Dynasty

[Tom Cherry]

19 minutes ago, Terry R said:

I had a similar problem with my 2007 Dynasty a few years ago.  I am going from memory as the Dynasty is in FL set up for the winter and I am currently in NC.

In my situation, the pump turn on signal was being generated by the MUX correctly.  My problem was at the HWH control box (on firewall above the generator - with the clear plexiglas cover).  The signal was making it to the control box but the pump control relay inside the box had failed.

Instead of trying to find a relay and repair the board, I used a Bosch relay to bypass the bad relay.  I mouned the new relay on the firewall, picked up 12 V from a spare circuit in the front run bay and ran it through the normally open contacts of the Bosch to the start solenoid on the pump motor.  I removed the plexiglas to access the pump start signal that I connected to the coil of the Bosch.  The other side of the Bosch coil went to ground.  Now when the MUX tells the pump to start the Bosch relay provides 12V to activate the Pump motor solenoid.

Hope this helps.  I don't think I marked the changes on my schematics so can't provide one.  Your Dynasty wiring may or may not be like mine.

 Terry R

2007 Dynasty

That would work in this case.  Trevor is unable to verify neither the “OK TO START” nor the Parking Brake ground. The signal you intercepted is actual a dual input signal.  The MPX signal is tied to the output of the manual Genny control switch.  So either signal or voltage is sent to the innards of the Plastic HWH control. Then the infamous GRAY wire signal is turned on from inside the HWH and remains on, thereby, energizing the solenoid until you release either an MPX Slide function switch or the manual genny switch.

I assume that HWH wanted the pump solenoid to get a single signal and not individual ones from each switch or slide function (movement) switch.

Thanks…

 

[Trevor and Laura]

Hi Terry, thankyou v much for your recall and for sharing, I suspect that this is my problem as well, might explain the .2v reading when a mpx switch is made inside.. Will find a relay, get the generator slide out and go looking. I know where the HWH box is, it was rebuilt by them a few years ago by the PO, sure they would love to do it again,  I like the Bosch relay, my kind of fix as well..

Will keep in touch with my progress.

The New Year is looking better..

Trevor & Laura 

 

[Trevor and Laura]

Just ordered a relay and some insulated connectors and now wondering if I will be able to find the "grey" wire near the HWH box to avoid running a new one down to the motor. Sounds as if finding 12v in the FRB should not be a problem.

Happy New Year to ALL

Trevor and Laura  

[Tom Cherry]

12 hours ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Just ordered a relay and some insulated connectors and now wondering if I will be able to find the "grey" wire near the HWH box to avoid running a new one down to the motor. Sounds as if finding 12v in the FRB should not be a problem.

Happy New Year to ALL

Trevor and Laura  

Trevor... Good to have SPARE parts and a work around.  However, as we discussed on the phone and your comments on my text.  You have not trouble shot the circuit yet nor identified the issues. You need to remove BOTH wires...since you are color blind and cannot identify the BLUE from the Gray, then do the following test.

Put your meter leads (clips) on each wire. Have your wife press any internal switch or use the Manual genny switch. If you do NOT get 12 VDC, then there is a problem in the solenoid circuit.

Next... Clip one meter lead to the POSITIVE (incoming) on the Large Solenoid Lead.  Then (DO NOT PUSH ANY SWITCHES) use your meter and test to either WIRE. That SHOULD identify the Parking Brake GROUND. 

The ODDS of you having a circuit failure and losing BOTH SIDES of the Solenoid circuit are off the chart. SO, even though you have "tested over and over" the two wires, you need to revise your procedures or do them differentially.  

Just ordering parts and then trying to "GO INSIDE" the HWH control box and bypassing relay(s) that may or may not be bad can only result, if you are unsure of the issues, in damaging the HWH control box.

It is recommended that you do the tests above...exactly as outlined first....THEN, reassess.  

Also to review what you said when you used the Fiat's power to supply the control contacts on the solenoid....that the "sound of the motor was puny or whinning" as compared to when you used the Fiat power to energize, directly, the motor. THAT DOES POINT TO A BAD SOLENOID.  In that the contacts are burned and pitted.

THUS...the new Solenoid may be the "FIX".  HOWEVER, prior to installing it, you need to troubleshoot the circuit and see if the control circuit is working properly.

Just advice and I know that you are frustrated and want to fix this the easiest way and move on, but throwing parts at it and potentially damaging the HWH Control box might not be the best approach.

Good Luck... You have TIME to test, as you said, the circuit NOW...so eliminate or identify the problem before you go where Angels fear to tread.

 

[Trevor and Laura]

I hear you Tom and will be doing that first, my mind is covering multiple plans, we still have room for more spare parts. Easy to get into the FRB and find 12v. Plan to kill 12v power at the switches in back before taking the blue and grey wires off to avoid possibility of big sparks, and the cable to the motor to test the relay. Add a small wire to the 12v feed side to test the relay and to find the blue grd with a voltmeter. Clean those wires and see if Laura can determine colours. If we find the grd great, agree multiple failures unlikely, that only happens when your car is in the shop lol.. If we find the grd then I will put a switch in the new +ve to run the motor, will need to bring the generator slide out..

How does that sound?

Happy New Year 

Trevor 

 

[Trevor and Laura]

Today is for relaxing,  but I did take the box under the step, of course the motor relay cannot be seen, will need to be underneath, or maybe move it, tomorrow.. so I picked up the vom and looked in the FRB for a couple of minutes, what an intimidating place, how would one identify a spare circuit??

Out walking around and bumped into a mobile tech in his truck, but that is staying here at the Ranch in Arcadia, good to know and he let me pick his brain... he knows of this problem,  seems the ground from the brake switch also goes through that HWH box and can get lost.. he has had to add a new ground. Will be underneath again tomorrow.. would be nice to move the relay back a bit to get at the terminals, but suspect the main motor +ve terminal gets in the way of the hose clamp, so elegant, but will try.

Thanks

[Tom Cherry]

4 hours ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Today is for relaxing,  but I did take the box under the step, of course the motor relay cannot be seen, will need to be underneath, or maybe move it, tomorrow.. so I picked up the vom and looked in the FRB for a couple of minutes, what an intimidating place, how would one identify a spare circuit??

Out walking around and bumped into a mobile tech in his truck, but that is staying here at the Ranch in Arcadia, good to know and he let me pick his brain... he knows of this problem,  seems the ground from the brake switch also goes through that HWH box and can get lost.. he has had to add a new ground. Will be underneath again tomorrow.. would be nice to move the relay back a bit to get at the terminals, but suspect the main motor +ve terminal gets in the way of the hose clamp, so elegant, but will try.

Thanks

Far be it from me to argue with a Mobile Tech. BUT ON YOUR MH, the Ground from the Parking Brake Switch is not routed through the HWH Controller.  Look at the prints i provided.  If you have lost the parking brake switch and all he does is put in a PURE GROUND WIRE, then God only knows what OTHER CIRCUITS are impacted as a function of LOOSING or NOT having the proper Parking Brake ground signal. Beware of “experts” that say, I know how to bypass a safety circuit. If he is worth his time, then show him the print.  Let him do the proper troubleshooting that is required and was outlined earlier.  You stated that you had issues and could not test or locate either the BLUE GROUND or the GRAY POWER.  These have to be tested and then resolved.

No one can help you in the future if a tech or another uninformed person “rewires” and fixes something but does not follow the steps and finds the issue.  We have members that spend big bucks after “a fix” messed up something else.  They have to find a qualified tech to UNDO and possibly repair the damage done by a well meaning, but incompetent person.

Either fix it properly or don’t make it worse….but, if he does, then you will be on your own as no one here can determine what he did and why.  We depend on proper troubleshooting shooting and qualified repairs.

Your MH….your risk….and if you go down that path, the first post will be….rewire it LIKE THE PRINT….

[Trevor and Laura]

Tom, he is not touching our MH, my plans have not changed, I will post what I find tomorrow. 

Regards, Trevor 

[Trevor and Laura]

Progress today, things are still thought provoking lol.. small wires removed from the coil terminals and passed up to Laura, who still says they are both black. Also have the 2ga 12v feed off. Neither wire gives 12v from either intellitec or generator switches, 1 still gave about 0.2v from all switches.

Now looking for the ground, they both passed that test, 1 gave 12.2v, the other 13.2, directly to the hydraulic manifold was 13.7v, charging on shorepower. then tested the relay, 12v to one terminal, 1st of the original wires tried gave the expected solid clunk, but the other did not complete the circuit, so can I a$! u me that is the one that originates from the HWH box?  One thought to determine was to chock the wheels and air up to release the spring parking brakes, no change, the wire still provided a good ground..

Since we will be using that ground I will add a new 12v feed to the other coil terminal with a switch to run the pump on demand..  my fingers are not good with holding things, after dropping a little nut a few times it finally disappeared on me, so have to go shopping before I can finish the next stage tomorrow, hoping it did not go into the step mechanism.. there are better places to have mounted this relay, still tempting, then open the generator slide to see that hwh box..

Any thoughts welcome

Regards,  Trevor

[Tom Cherry]

38 minutes ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Progress today, things are still thought provoking lol.. small wires removed from the coil terminals and passed up to Laura, who still says they are both black. Also have the 2ga 12v feed off. Neither wire gives 12v from either intellitec or generator switches, 1 still gave about 0.2v from all switches.

Now looking for the ground, they both passed that test, 1 gave 12.2v, the other 13.2, directly to the hydraulic manifold was 13.7v, charging on shorepower. then tested the relay, 12v to one terminal, 1st of the original wires tried gave the expected solid clunk, but the other did not complete the circuit, so can I a$! u me that is the one that originates from the HWH box?  One thought to determine was to chock the wheels and air up to release the spring parking brakes, no change, the wire still provided a good ground..

Since we will be using that ground I will add a new 12v feed to the other coil terminal with a switch to run the pump on demand..  my fingers are not good with holding things, after dropping a little nut a few times it finally disappeared on me, so have to go shopping before I can finish the next stage tomorrow, hoping it did not go into the step mechanism.. there are better places to have mounted this relay, still tempting, then open the generator slide to see that hwh box..

Any thoughts welcome

Regards,  Trevor

Trevor....I am confused....so try to answer directly.

If you removed the two wires (May be BLACK) from each terminal.  Then put your VOM on the two wires.  When Laura pushes either the Generator or MPX Switch, then you should have 12 VDC (approx) on the wires, directly....NOT ATTACHED to the solenoid.

Next, your second paragraph alludes me.  If you take the 12 VDC from the #2 Gage solenoid (the power IN...  Then use it and measure the VOLTAGE on either wire. If you get 12 VDC with one wire....that that wire is the Parking Brake Switch side or the BLUE wire on the print. You should NOT get 12 VDC if you measure that wire to the HOT (incoming).

If I read it correctly, you HAVE a good Parking Brake switch lead. You need to use some masking tape or whatever and label that wire (the one that made the RELAY CLICK when you hooked up the 12 VDC from the Hot lead.  That is GOOD....that means that the Parking Brake switch is ON. You SHOULD be able to test this....do this.

Hook up your meter to the wire that made the solenoid click.  It does NOT need to be on the terminal.  Then put the OTHER end on the HOT wire on the Solenoid. You SHOULD, as you stated....have 12 VDC.

Therefore, you now know which side of the solenoid does NOT have power. The HWH lead (the Gray Wire) is NOT working. 

Please re-read this. You NEED to understand this.  You have been chasing a ghost. NOW that you have determined that the BLUE WIRE (the on you hooked up and then used the HOT wired from the solenoid and it MADE the Solenoid go CLUNK....  The Parking brake circuit is FINE.

You WILL have to go INSIDE the HWH box. You need to follow that wire or look for a GRAY WIRE inside the Box. That lead will come off a relay....just as Terry said.

You will have to look or test the OTHER side of the relay contact. There may be ONE wire or TWO. I do NOT know where the Manual Genny Switch wire and the Intellitec MPX is connected...but they are TIED or joined together.  SO, when EITHER one has power....that energized the REALAY inside the HWH box. If you have a 12 VDC signal, then the relay is bad.

Please look at the prints again. Please also do the test as I laid it out....you have not done that yet.

Then you will have to figure out HOW to find the Manual and MPX signal or have someone that knows what they are looking for, isolate it.  THEN you install the BOSCH relay.  BUT, you will need a FUSED HOT POWER lead to get power to the solenoid.

 

[Oilcan]

Trevor &Laura just a thought Ilooked through your post and most of the replies I was sutprised that Tom did direct you totry and contact Az. Pete as he is very knowledgeable in HWH systems and helped me out with the issues I was having just a thought I would definitely tryto contact Az Pete 

[Tom Cherry]

I have NO information on any techs in the field, except the one that I use...

@Trevor and Laura

You and I have texted and talked and you have posted and such. There comes a time when the staff has to put on our "FIDICUARY HAT" and make a post....so this is sort of a summary and also a concern that we, the staff have, and why we have to "refer back to the ORIGINAL" wiring diagrams.

You have the print on the HWH Solenoid.  You do NOT have, I think, color coded wiring (Control wires). Monaco show a BLUE wire. That is the GROUND from the Parking Brake switch. In your posts and also your texts, you have located a GROUND WIRE.  You have it, I think, labeled. You indicated that you found it by hooking up a HOT wire from the Solenoid's 2 GA cable and then touched one of the Solenoid's control leads. You hooked up each of the TWO "mystery" wires...one was supposed to be GRAY and is the POWER ON signal from the HWH Control Panel. The OTHER is the BLUE and is supposed to be the PARKING BRAKE ON and GROUND wire. 

SO...I'm refering to the "black" wire (was a GROUND)  that made the Solenoid Click (on one terminal) and your HOT test lead on the OTHER. 

That wire appears, based on your texts, NOT to come from the Parking Brake. Unless I misunderstood, you disengaged the parking brake (why did it not roll?) and you tested the HOT again on the solenoid terminal with the mystery GROUND "black" wire....IT STILL WORKS.

Bottom LINE....someone, prior to YOUR ownership,  has been tinkering with the wiring. We, the members and staff, can NOT make recommendations when the prints don't match....that is all we have.  BUT...it is WORKING...as in you DO HAVE a PERMANENT GROUND.  So, if it works, and you are aware that the wiring is INCORRECT...you have to live with that and proceed...

OK.. NOW the PROBLEM. You are NOT getting the PUMP ON signal from the HWH Controller. Terry told you about a work around he did...but you have not been inside it and unless you know exactly WHERE to start bypassing the presumed "faulty" relay like Terry did....that might be beyond your skill set....thus a good tech to help.

You HAVE STATED, here and on the phone and texts that you are ADDING A SWITCH to activate the PUMP.  That way, you do NOT have to hold wires while Laura runs the slide switches.  THAT IS A DECISION THAT YOU MADE.  There are some issues that many, myself included, would raise. From our own personal liability and also the Monacoer's "credibility", the addition of a BYPASS switch needs to be done carefully and cautiously.  THUS, the following recommendation...

You and Laura are a team. You are both senior citizens and like many of us, we work well with our partners. THUS...this is the recommendation from the Moderating Staff.

DO NOT INSTALL A PERMANENT ON/OFF SWITCH... it needs to be a MOMENTARY CONTACT style.  If you put it up front, as you indicated, then it will be a TWO PERSON event.  You intend, as you said, to EVENTUALLY resolve the problem and either get the HWH control box fixed (troubleshot) or add the bypass relay that Terry did.

Therefore, please look at this link....

https://www.amazon.com/DMWD-Momentary-Waterproof-Anti-Vandal-Pre-Wired/dp/B0CCMHB4BW/ref=sr_1_49_sspa?crid=2ZW1XJHEDPZO&keywords=push+button+hand+held+spst+switch&qid=1704393381&sprefix=push+button+hand+held+spst+switch%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-49-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGZfbmV4dA&psc=1

You can go to Amazon and put the following in the search box...

DMWD 16mm Heavy Duty Momentary Metal Push Button Switch Waterproof Anti-Vandal Large Current 20Amp 12V-24V ON-Off 1NO 2 Pins with Pre-Wired Socket for 5/8" Mounting Hole Without LED

ORDER the MOMENTARY CONTACT MODEL...NOT THE LATCHING.  Get either size. You can wrap some tape around it to hold it easier or get a piece of rubber hose and use it as a grip. 

Then you will need enough two conductor stranded #16 gauge hook up wire (in a covered jacket).  Use THIS as the BYPASS.   You need enough wire so you can take the PUSH BOTTON (Momentary CONTACT) switch back to where the Slide Controls are.  Thus....you can push a SLIDE Function switch and then also use the other hand and pus the momentary contact switch and that will start the pump.  LET OFF on both after the slide stops. This will also be used for the Genny manual switch up front.  

This is the SAFEST method...and if one of you is not available, then one person can operate the slides.  

You have come a long way and have isolated the problem and the TEMPORARY switch above will allow you to continue to travel until you are stopped long enough to trouble shoot or find a tech to add the external relay.

WE, the STAFF, have to make the point that ANY MODIFICATION, which deviates from the OEM prints or the Manufacturer's recommendation have this "COMMENT" or perhaps warning.  

YES, many of us have made temporary hookup and done things....but adding just an ON/OFF switch and mounting is is NOT recommended and the remote momentary contact switch will be as safe as it can be, given the circumstances.  In addition, you and Laura KNOW the PROCEDURE.

Please let us know how things progress and such after you install the new Solenoid.

Thanks....

[Trevor and Laura]

Good news Everyone, our HWH slide switches are working again, many thanks to Tom Cherry who guided me through the Monaco prints and shared his safety concerns and to Terry R, who shared his knowledge and fix for the failure inside the HWH control box that he had experienced previously, saving us a lot of trial and possible error..  The big relay on the motor was fine and we now have a spare and some new soldering stuff for another adventure..

The motor start circuit activates every time any hydraulic slide moves,  so a robust fix is good to have..

Thanks again

             Laura and Trevor

 

[Tom Cherry]

49 minutes ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Good news Everyone, our HWH slide switches are working again, many thanks to Tom Cherry who guided me through the Monaco prints and shared his safety concerns and to Terry R, who shared his knowledge and fix for the failure inside the HWH control box that he had experienced previously, saving us a lot of trial and possible error..  The big relay on the motor was fine and we now have a spare and some new soldering stuff for another adventure..

The motor start circuit activates every time any hydraulic slide moves,  so a robust fix is good to have..

Thanks again

             Laura and Trevor

 

GREAT….you get the “MARK AS SOLUTION” award.  Glad it is fixed and is “close” to OEM.  Just, as you probably know, if your trouble shooting was correct, that the Parking Brake ground signal may be a FULL TIME Ground…

Drive ON!!!!

[Terry R]

Great job.  Glad it worked for you.