Slideout adjustors seem inconsistent

[Steve P]

My 20ft raised slideout sits at an angle. The left end doesn't go out quite all the way.  And it is canted slightly inward at the top.  Each is only 3/16" or so out of whack, but it's just wrong.  The adjustors appear to be set the same, but the slideout seems like it's not sitting down the same on the front ones.  See the pics -- the front is first, then the back.  They rotated to the right, don't know why... nor how to correct.

Any idea how to adjust the front to sit correctly?

 

 

[jacwjames]

I have four rollers under my slide, two are accessed by going through the kitchen base cabinet, there is one that is accessed through the basement compartment, and the last one is accessed from the front drivers side wheel well. The slide runs in and out on these rollers. 

My slide seemed to tilted in at the top at the rear and the bottom was slightly touching the floor.  So I adjusted the rollers under the kitchen cabinet to lift it up slightly, adjusted the furthest one back ~1/8" and the next one ~1/16" and that solved the problem.  Didn't adjust the front two.

[Steve P]

This slide has no rollers.  It rests on two or three support arms, and is driven in and out hydraulically.  It essentially floats in and out on plastic blocks. The coach floor is cut at an angle to raise the slide as it retracts, and then level it out (this is the apparent operation, although the slideout may have another technical name.

Does anyone know how the adjustors pictured work?  And do mine look normal or are they set incorrectly, or perhaps they have loosened up over time. 

Edited January 9 by Steve P

[Martinvz]

Steve, You state that the slide is tilted in at the top and I am interpreting this as there is a gap at the bottom and the top is tight at the top when retracted.

I had adjusted the closet slide on our coach but later returned the settings. The below is based on my experience. Monaco used a number of different mechanisms so look under the slide, at the ceiling of the storage box and behind the lower slide seal for adjustment screws for the rollers (if there are). Think carefully about what is being adjusted by the adjustment screws and how the box will move. You will not be adjusting the slide mechanism with the screws you referred to. 
The screws in the picture will raise the slide box relative to the slide mechanism and tilt the box. To make it possible, you need to loosen the bolts thad hold it tight as the long bolts are the adjusters primarily.

Making the changes will slightly raise the box but the greater impact is the tilt relative to the coach frame. Make small adjustments such as one turn of the adjusting screws at a time (one full turn or four 1/4 turns). 

Make sure to lift the slide with one or more jacks before making adjustments as the box is really heavy. And be prepared to undo some of the adjustments. Also look at the paint work and alignment of the box relative to the paint on the coach body.

One thing to be aware of is that lowering it too much, may result in the slide rubbing on the bottom of the opening of the coach, just above the belt line. Lots to think about and check the result by moving the slide in and out.

[Steve P]

The most noticeable issue is when the slide is out.  The top is tilted inward about 3/16", maybe 1/4" only on the front end of the slide.  The back end is fine.  I'm trying to figure out how to make the front end rock downward without messing up the back. It is sitting up above the adjustors.  Almost like there is something under that end of the slide...

[Tom Cherry]

8 hours ago, Steve P said:

The most noticeable issue is when the slide is out.  The top is tilted inward about 3/16", maybe 1/4" only on the front end of the slide.  The back end is fine.  I'm trying to figure out how to make the front end rock downward without messing up the back. It is sitting up above the adjustors.  Almost like there is something under that end of the slide...

You have what is called a DROP DOWN or some, I think call it a FLUSH FLOOR Slide. The way to determine if the slide is adjusted properly is to first verify that the slide is flush on both sides when retracted.  Then you extend the slide. The hydraulic mechanism will "walk" or balance the slide as it does out. There are THREE cylinders and one is a hidden "balancing" cylinder so the slide will sometimes go out and one side will pause and then catch up. 

There are commercial slide sprays on Amazon that folks buy and you lubricated the area where the slide makes contacts. There is a (white?) cam or nylon piece on the floor of the MH on each end. It has a bevel of a sloping "ramp". When the slide is extended, the contact area of the bottom of the slide, will ride on this. When the slide is fully extended, then the slide will "DROP DOWN" and become flush with the interior floor. 

Likewise, when you retract the slide, the bottom of the slide will start to lift or raise as it "RIDES UP" on the nylon ramp.  You lubricate the underside of the slide where it mates or rides on the two pieces of nylon. In some (MANY) cases, the floor will deteriorate and that requires the addition of a plate. @throgmartin  Chris Throgmartin is a member and has a RV repair operation in Brooksville, FL. He designed a SS plate that is used to recover or be added to the bottom of the slide when that area starts to "wear or tear". There is a design flaw in the way that Monaco attached the sidewalls to the bottom of the slide. It is prone to leak. Chris custom fabricates a "Guardian Plate".  It is a long flat plate that now rides or glides over the nylon ramp and it has a turned up edge (2 - 3") on each side so it covers up the "joint" on the corner and prevents moisture or water entry. Chris' shop is Talin RV.  Google it. Chris is our expert and often helps members correct problems.

The next step for you is to measure the slide when retracted. In theory, once the slide extends and drops down. the front edge (part that contacts or overlaps the MH body should be parallel to the body. You measure the lower corner....and then the upper corner. I can't recall, buy mine are within maybe 1/4". So WRITE DOWN the dimension at the top, middle and bottom of the front.  Then repeat at the rear.

My large living DROP DOWN slide has the refrigerator on one end. There is NO CONCEIVABLE way, in any structure, that the 300 pounds (Typical gas/electric refrigerator) or 200 pound Res Refer will NOT cause a corner to sit a little lower. The bottom measurements on each side MUST be the same....you MIGHT see some variation in that the middle of one end, if it has a refrigerator will be further out...as in the slide is "sagging" a smidge.  Then the TOP will be out about 2 TIMES that amount. I think mine was maybe 1/2 to 3/4" more or further away from the sidewall of the MH at the top than at the bottom.

The slide stops are tricky and only one with knowledge should adjust them. The "trick" is that when the slide is fully retracted, the cylinder on each side pulls the slide in, but does NOT warp it.  Likewise, when extended, the hydraulics push out the slide so that it is parallel to the side of the motor home.  THUS, the front lower corner and the rear lower corner should be close, very close.

You stated that the slide is "tilted" inward maybe 1/4" on the front. You need to measure the entire side of the slide and see if it is parallel. Be PRECISE...when using a 1" Tape Measure (I used to make them and was the Engineering Manager for a major brand), you PUSH the end stop (hook) firmly against the side of the body as the end hook has an elongated slot where the rivet is so it is accurate when pushed in against a surface or accurate when hooked over a surface. Any good 1" tape will work. I prefer the LUFKIN Brand.  (LOL).

Once you have your dimensions, you can call Chris and discuss with him.

I HATE TO ANAYLYZE or make assumptions without dimensions...but it sounds like the front slide is not being extended enough for the slide to full drop down or the underside of the slide to be "off" the incline or the ramp.

That's the deal...  Get info.  Talk to Chris.  Inspect the underside for any damage and send him pictures. The SS Guardian plates work great. I have them on 3 of my 4 slides...
 

[Steve P]

@Tom Cherry Thanks... I do have Guardian plates on all my slides, installed by Talin, to prevent the floors/corners from rotting.  And Chris @throgmartin's team at Talin is trying to work me in this month to assess and address the alignment issue.  In case they cannot, I'm trying to size up the alternatives...  I don't know if the trip home will make the problem worse, and that's a concern too.

[Tom Cherry]

11 minutes ago, Steve P said:

@Tom Cherry Thanks... I do have Guardian plates on all my slides, installed by Talin, to prevent the floors/corners from rotting.  And Chris @throgmartin's team at Talin is trying to work me in this month to assess and address the alignment issue.  In case they cannot, I'm trying to size up the alternatives...  I don't know if the trip home will make the problem worse, and that's a concern too.

I trust Chris and his folks.  They are experienced. I don't have the skill set to know what to adjust and how to do it. My main slide had an issue, a NORMAL one, due to the weight of the Refrigerator on the back corner of the slide. I had it in for some other issues at a shop in Elkhart run by a friend of Chris'. He was an Ex Monaco supervisor (Paint area). He and another tech did some minor tweaking and such. Due to the geometry and loading and structure of the slide....they moved it a smidge.

BUT, in general, it never moved, nor was adjusted, until 2018 and was built in late 2008. The ONLY reason I had them look at it was that when the rear corner sagged, it stretched the topper and caused a minor sag in the upper or front side. That helped a little with the ponding. BUT, the consensus was that any drop down slide will have the same issue....  Chris actually made the toppers and was concerned about the issue and remade another one. It was the same...so we just rocked on. The topper was installed in 2015.

Therefore, I think you are in good hands and have the best plan....

In the future, it would help if you include all the pertinent information about the slide as in "it has Guardian plates"....

Good luck and let us know.

[throgmartin]

Steve:

I can work with you on making some adjustments to that slide. The adjustments need to be small as you can get the slide so far out of whack that the inside of the slide can hit the ceiling when bringing it in. Those adjustment bolts raise and lowers the slide. The bolts actually work in reverse. You raise the bolt to lower the slide and vice versa. The inward and outward position ( distance of the extension ) of the slide is accomplished using stop bolts. If these bolts are out of adjustment the slide will not go all the way out or in.

It would be better to instruct you over the phone. Send me a text and lets set a time. You can at that time go out to the coach with your slide out and we can go over things. If you have an Apple phone we can do it through facetime. I am currently battling bronchitis so will need a couple days to get to feeling better. Maybe this weekend ?

 

 

[Steve P]

44 minutes ago, throgmartin said:

Steve:

I can work with you on making some adjustments to that slide. The adjustments need to be small as you can get the slide so far out of whack that the inside of the slide can hit the ceiling when bringing it in. Those adjustment bolts raise and lowers the slide. The bolts actually work in reverse. You raise the bolt to lower the slide and vice versa. The inward and outward position ( distance of the extension ) of the slide is accomplished using stop bolts. If these bolts are out of adjustment the slide will not go all the way out or in.

It would be better to instruct you over the phone. Send me a text and lets set a time. You can at that time go out to the coach with your slide out and we can go over things. If you have an Apple phone we can do it through facetime. I am currently battling bronchitis so will need a couple days to get to feeling better. Maybe this weekend ?

 

 

Chris - that would be very helpful. Let's see how you are feeling by the weekend.  Hope you heal by then regardless of my needs.  If we need to wait, I'm here thru the end of the month. I talked to Bethany last week about maybe squeezing me in sometime between now and then.  I'm supposed to check next week to see if that's going to be possible.

I don't have any jacks with me here in Brooksville, but I will ask around the park and see if I can borrow some.

Thanks - Steve P

[top flight]

My advice would be to let Chris & Talin do any adjustments and needed repairs.  We were at Talin recently and they did a fantastic job on installing Guardian plates, repairing a rotted section under the slide out floor and adjusting the slides.  They are great, honest ( which is rare in repair shops these days), and a pleasure to work with.

[Steve P]

6 hours ago, top flight said:

My advice would be to let Chris & Talin do any adjustments and needed repairs.  We were at Talin recently and they did a fantastic job on installing Guardian plates, repairing a rotted section under the slide out floor and adjusting the slides.  They are great, honest ( which is rare in repair shops these days), and a pleasure to work with.

I completely agree.  They are great people, and stand by their work.  If they can't see me in person, I may have to limp along following Chris's instructions.  Hope not, I'm all thumbs!

[Steve P]

UPDATE:  We are camped just a couple of miles from Talin RV, so Chris did me a huge favor and came by this morning to assess my slideout issue first hand.  His expertise is obvious and I'm incredibly appreciative that he took the time to consult with me.  It turns out the hydraulic ram does need an adjustment on the left end (the forward end) of the slide.  The left side is not extending all the way (probably a half inch less than it needs to based on Chris's measurements.  He explained in detail what to do and how to progressively adjust and measure, and then repeat as required.  He also recommended the penetrating lube T-9 for a couple days of soaking the nuts and bolts before doing the adjustment.  I will get that adjustment done next week when the weather is warmer and drier.  The nuts are on a long horizontal threaded rod that has probably never had a wrench on it and has a very "nice" crust of rust.  Chris emphasized repeated applications of the T-9 before trying to break the nuts loose.  I will provide further updates and pics as the adjustment progresses.

Chris noted two other issues while looking things over, including the beginning of the beltline over the drivers window starting to pop (most probably rusting screws letting go slowly).  After Chris described in detail how to do that repair, I went to Talin's shop and bought the very necessary narrow-flanged stainless steel rivets needed for the beltline channel, along with the T-9 for the lubricating the nuts and bolt on the hydraulic ram.

The third issue he spotted was a slight separation where the 4-inch trim piece on the bottom of the slide is mounted.  The clear sealant has a barely noticeable section where it is drying out... well, barely noticeable to me, but glaringly obvious to Chris!  This is an easy fix with Proflex RV Clear sealant.  As Chris explained, if disregarded, water intrusion will enter the wall just above the floor, soak into the plywood and rot the edge of the floor from the edge inward.  NOT good, and very expensive to repair.  So check your bottom trim piece on every slide.  The top edge of the trim piece has to have an uncompromised sealant bead, or you will get water intrusion.  And rot.  I think 3 tubes of Proflex RV cost about $45.  That's about 1/100th minimum of the probable cost of the floor replacement, even for a small section of floor.

I'm writing a Google review as well as this one.  They did my guardian plates (6 total).  They repaired/replaced my 20 plus foot topper roller and spring and end cap.  Suffice it to say that Chris and Talin RV are my primary go-to team for slideouts, beltlines, trim, and other water intrusion prevention and correction work.  Schedule at least 6 months in advance... They are that good, and that busy.

Highest regards - Steve P