Wet bay dismantling to replace sanicon

[Gweedo]

Good morning all, I am upgrading my current sanicon to the new turbo model.  Are there any tricks or concerns to dismantling the wet bay, or anyone who has done this that can provide any info I should know about.  

 

Thanks,

[bklaes]

I just went through this exercise replacing the hose reel last week.  It's not as daunting as it first appears.  Although, I ended up calling a handyman/plumber to help break apart the fittings for the fresh water spigot, black tank rinse and winterizing blow out fixtures.  He had a couple pair of LARGE channel locks and muscles.  Niether of which I have.  He also stuck around to help replace the reel and reassemble/reinstall the white panel.  He wasn't an RV guy but his assistance made the process much quicker.

[Gweedo]

Thnx. Good idea I’ll replace the water hose as well n c if there is anything to lube while I’m in there 

[Mike T Phillips]

While your there replace your black and grey water gate valves.      
 

I also put a black mesh (nylon) around the discharge hose to prevent pen leaks seems to work good for the past year and a half

[Gweedo]

I ordered up some mesh for the hose. Got the old macerator out very easy, but he new one can only go in one place.     
 

anyone happen to know electrical wire.  The batt wire is a 10 awg 600v mtv or mtw.   I have 10 gauge 600v mtw or  thhn    It’s not quite as flexible.   Will this work?   I bought this before I opened the box.  
 

both r 105 degrees dry or 75 degrees wet macerator is oil resistant.  Just don’t know the difference in mtw n awm   Difference I see is the one I bought has thhn n awm not mtw

 

Edited March 13 by Gweedo

[Gweedo]

In doing some research it appears the wire can be used

 

[Mike T Phillips]

I put the turbo in my coach last year   And used the existing wire that was there and it seems to work fine. I did put in two switches the main Mari raider switch has to be on and then I put the flip switch that came with the turbo up on top of the wet bay so I’ve got a flip two switches on so it doesn’t get turned on accidentally. I also made a larger hose holder to go standing up and down on the right hand side right at the end so it will hold all the hose seems to work well 

Mike Phillips 2008 

holiday rambler imperial 

[Steve P]

@Gweedo This is on my to-do list (hose reel and macerator upgrade).  Could you take lots of pics of the disassembly process for use as a reference by me and others?  Mine looks like it will be tricky to get all the handles and switch covers and wires and other misc gear off to release the panel.  Thanks in advance! 

[Gweedo]

I sure will!!

[grizzly]

Just have a question. Why do you use the macerator? We have one and I used it at first but takes to long to empty all the way. I just dump direct

[Glen-Deb]

1. How much quicker is turbo Maserator?

2. I have “hate-like” thots with mine in my 07 rig. I hate the 20+ mins to finish black & grey tanks. I like ability to use in my driveway 80’ ft to sewer line (by threading nine 7-ft sections of 3/4 PVC I store in RV, on top of fuel tank). 

[Mike T Phillips]

I had the regular Sanicon on an old coach ad liked it because it was clean and no fuss it took a little longer but it was fine. 
on my new voa h I put the turbo sanicon and it’s much faster.     I like the hose is always connected and no need to fiddle with hoses.   They’re always connected.     It takes the same amount of time to dump with a free flow (regular)  as with the turbo     

[Gweedo]

So I had the same problem with it taking too long.  I watched a video on the new turbo n it took less than 2 minutes to empty the tank.  Looking inside the old one, lots of hair (I wondered where mine went) definitely slows them down.  Others have taken them apart and clean them.  
I got the new one on sale and after reading the reviews n seeing the real time test I was sold. 
I hated waiting forever to empty, I could finish a cup of coffee.  Best thing is no messing with hose just push the button. 
I hope to be finished tomorrow, I noticed a leak from the water tank drain union.  When I blew out the compartment water came out the other side. 
apparently it has been dripping extremely slowly, I’m hoping the water I blew is residual.  Drying everything up tonight n cross my fingers in the morning that it’s not the tank.  
I had to fix that before installing the new macerater. At least all the wiring is finished, that was fun.      
I’ll update soon with pics as well 

[Gweedo]

Good morning, it all finished.   I will attach several pics of what I did.  First the new one would not fit where the old one sat, much wider n so only had one spot.  (Dry fit first).

 I ran the power wire out n up the frame n tied to existing wire looms.  In the battery compartment I allowed extra wire so the batt tray can be pulled out.   I ran the ground just out the compartment in front of the rear tire, all wire was in cased in plastic loom n then completely tapped. I ran automotive grommets in the steel where the looms exit,   I siliconed each exit point n painted the ground. 
I now place my hose where the old macerater was.    
On the hose I installed the protective cover n heat shrunk them to each fitting (macerater n dump connector)    I got this ideas off you tube.  After sliding on protective cover I slid a 2” heat shrink covering the protective cover n the fitting.  The shrink has a glue inside so should hold everything tight.  TIP: before shrinking put the hose on the attachments so the hose doesn’t shrink n let it cool before removing).  I stretched the hose n added 12” of protective cover to allow for bends. 

The instructions are great for wiring super simple. I used a 7mm wrench to insert the wire into the plastic casing it allows you to easily slide the wire inside. I used heat shrink butt connectors n the covered them with heat shrink   I used yellow tape on the outside to mark where I have a butt connector in the casing

I bolted the macerater to the floor, cut a small circle in the underneath foam n then painted the bolts.  

“Steven’P.  I didn’t have to remove the panel as mine sat below.  If you look at the pick of my panel to the left of the faucet you will see two cuts. Looks like the PO used a dremel n made an access to replace the water hose. Good idea if that’s all you’re replacing.  Otherwise the panel looks intimidating but it’s just a matter of loosening the facia screws. 
hopefully the pics will make sense of things.   
Any questions just ask away.   Unfortunately for me my water leak fix didn’t work on my drain so I’ll try one more thing, if it doesn’t work I’ll put a diverted tray in.  I couldn’t get the tank fitting off without removing the tank.  Dripping about 2 tablespoons last night.  One day if I feel ambitious enough I’ll remove the tank but for now I’ll live with it, too many other priorities.