On shore power & dead cassis batteries/no start w/ boost

[Frank McElroy]

2 hours ago, Just Jim said:

Frank,  I've looked at the wiring diagrams and don't see any mention of spare wires or extra conduit?  I've purchased wire and was just fixing to run some extras, so your comment is very timely.  I've looked but have not found any.  I have two rear run boxes; one on each side.  There is so much wiring that it could be right in front of me.  Any idea what it would look like and a more specific place to check?  I've looked under the dash and don't see any spare wire.  Again, any specific location to look and what to look for?

Jim

I don't know how far back Monaco installed a spare harness and empty conduit.  On my coach I have it but it's not shown in my set of schematics.  I had to go back to an older model year to find it.  On my coach the empty grey electrical conduit is about 1" in diameter, and located up high next to the PS frame rail and accessible from behind the steer axle to in front of the drive axle.  It runs through all the storage bays.

Spare Wiring Harness.pdf

[jacwjames]

I didn't have a BB but my system incorporated an isolation solenoid, BIRD, and Lambert 415 maintainer.  Two years ago the Lambert was acting up so I decided to bit the bullet and install the Bluesea MLRac.

Installing the relay was easy, 15 minutes.

Installing the dash switch not so much.  I spent a day looking for spare wires.  I found several in the wiring looms around the engine and using a tracer could not find the ends in the front or visa versa and some of the wires I found were labeled for functions I didn't want to take a chance on.

So I opted to put in a 3/4" conduit.  I bought two 10' pieces, started in the front.  Had the generator extended out, pushed the first piece through the hole cut in the floor supports other wires and hoses were run on the passenger side,  Pushed it across the top of the fuel tank and then into the basement roof area, hit something and had to drop the ceiling panel in the first pass through bay.  Was able to push the conduit further back, added another piece of conduit, pushed some more conduit and got it the small bay where my inverter is and was able to reach up and find the end and push it back across the top of my water tanks and it day lighted just in front of the rear axle to where I could access it.

I decided to pull multiple wires in case I needed more in the future and found that I could buy a trailer wiring kit at a decent price so used that.  Pulled the wires through rear to front and pulled them up into the dash area where my switch would be and back into my rear passenger side run bay where the Bluesea is mounted.  

So now I have 4 extra wires, not sure what I'll use them for, been contemplating a EGT install.

[grizzly]

I had similar issue and once I cleaned the big boy all was good

[Newcsn]

Thank you @Frank McElroy & @Tom Cherry and everyone else who chimed in with advice - this group is amazing! After cleaning the BB & reinstalling & cycling the chassis cutoff switch a couple times I think we're functioning again! It took quite a while for the chassis batteries to get back to cranking strength. Came home from church this AM & she spun right over!

Thanks again to everyone!

 

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, Newcsn said:

Thank you @Frank McElroy & @Tom Cherry and everyone else who chimed in with advice - this group is amazing! After cleaning the BB & reinstalling & cycling the chassis cutoff switch a couple times I think we're functioning again! It took quite a while for the chassis batteries to get back to cranking strength. Came home from church this AM & she spun right over!

Thanks again to everyone!

 

You’re welcome.  Driving in a nice trip is a great way to rejuvenate the batteries.  I would NOT stress…OMG…I KILLED THEM.  Frank and I have a “simple” chassis battery condition test.  Next time you travel and it is HOT outside….maybe 90….or more.  Leave the Front HVAC on.  Stop at a rest stop or such.  Wait about 5 - 10 minutes.  My rule of thumb….totally disconnecting the Yukon and getting cover on hitch and such….that’s about the interval.  Get inside….no noise…no grandkids…. Listen carefully…..turn on the engine (no radio on).  If it starts quickly with no hesitation…..good to go.  After maybe 5 years…(Frank and I have same ISL 425….with the 950 CCA batteries)….as long as it doesn’t hesitate….fine.  The engine has heat soaked….and the compression is higher…. NOW..if it doesn’t instantly start and the “OMG …..it ain’t gonna start” pops in your head…..but then it turns over and fires….plan on a replacement in a year or so.

BTW….the ignition ON….Low Battery warning (we both have Medallion instruments) is a ULTRA WOLF alarm….we both got it with almost new batteries.

11.4 VDC was “not enough” to start….but if they charged back up….then measure.  BUT… cover a solar panel or disconnect batteries from solar.  NO genny or shore. Turn on switch and run the AC blower or radio or steps or whatever….you need to knock off the surface charge….

THEN….turn OFF chassis….let it sit for maybe 30 minutes.  Then MEASURE.  That is the REAL voltage.  You can look at any “battery” chart…12.6/7…..they charged back up to 100%…

Good Luck…