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No power to some 120 VAC outlets - 2004 Endeavor. Help?


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I have no power to the three 110v sockets at the front of the moTtorhome.he one behind the tv the one at the rear of the entertainment booster and the one on the console as you come in the door,Any thing common to those fhree and i have checked the breakers etc. with no success.

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Maybe on the same GFCI circuit (controlled by one of the GFCI outlets - mine has one in the bathroom and another in the kitchen).  If one resets but keeps popping (disconnecting), then replace the outlet.

Also, using Search, specify files and search for:

2004 Endeavor wiring 

and you may find something to provide a clue.

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Same with my 2000 Dynasty. Found a burned connection  (neutral) in one of those crummy plastic wire connectors that they lay the wires in and snap the cover down. It was under the overhead cabinet plywood flooring (behind co-pilot seat) where the romex cables are run. Had to use a wire tracer (toner) in order to find where the break was. I set two junction boxes in the cabinet to eliminate the hidden connections. Now it’s accessible . The bottom floor is thin and had brad nails holding it down. Easy to pry loose. 
Maybe you could be lucky and find a bad connection in a receptacle killing the power downstream. It’s always something simple. Just finding it can be the hard part. 

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to No power to some 120 VAC outlets - 2004 Endeavor. Help?
14 hours ago, bonfield said:

I have no power to the three 110v sockets at the front of the moTtorhome.he one behind the tv the one at the rear of the entertainment booster and the one on the console as you come in the door,Any thing common to those fhree and i have checked the breakers etc. with no success.

First....I lucked out when I went searching.  Here is the 120 VAC outlet layout.... and FWIW, that is QUITE a find and Monaco was stingy on many prints. This should help you start tracing...

From the prints....these are NOT GFCI controlled.  Look at the INVERTER.  There are THREE push button or pin circuit breakers.  ONE is 30 A incoming.  The other are TWO 20A outgoing.  Check there.  IF you have power in the REAR (Bedroom)....as in the line from J-Box 7 (B), then you have either an issue in that box or at the ENT Receptacle....

BUT, odds are... CB.  Check that.  Then pull the ENT (Entrance?) Receptacle.  IF you have incoming power, it may be those stupid Manufacturing Home outlets.  Change to a residential...

The print is great....now the work begins....where do I have power and where have I lost it.  BUT, at least you have a good roadmap.

I also included the entire file in the following download.  FWIW, If you open the entire file....use the FIND in the upper right.  I put in GFCI and this print was the first that popped up.  JUST what I needed....

 

120 VAC Layout Dip & End and others.pdf

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I had the same problem a while back. Figured it was a GFI plug someplace. Checked the ones inside, All OK. Finally found 2 in a storage compartment these used for the tank heaters. Reset the one that had popped and unplugged the heaters. Why some plugs inside would be wired with those only Monaco know, but no problem since.

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2 hours ago, CTerry said:

I had the same problem a while back. Figured it was a GFI plug someplace. Checked the ones inside, All OK. Finally found 2 in a storage compartment these used for the tank heaters. Reset the one that had popped and unplugged the heaters. Why some plugs inside would be wired with those only Monaco know, but no problem since.

Circuit does not show any GFCI in the one impacted.  Take a look at the print.  Yes, GFCI are sometimes a nuance, but don’t appear to be involved….

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I have searched that invertor which seems the best solution but on it i can only find one reset button and that is not tripped.it has to be simple but i am not getting it. 

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19 minutes ago, bonfield said:

I have searched that invertor which seems the best solution but on it i can only find one reset button and that is not tripped.it has to be simple but i am not getting it. 

Have you read the manual.  The prints show a Magnum inverter.  I just downloaded your manual.  As usual, Monaco allowed different favorites to do different things.  Your rig was most likely an Elkhart MH.  You have the Freedom.

Go to page 307.  There is one circuit breaker for the incoming power.  This comes from the 30 A breaker in the main panel.  It is labeled on the inverter.  You havevTWO “BREAKERS” on the LEFT SIDE.  ONE is for the Mirowave. The other is the interior outlets.  If you look at the JUNCTION box called out….that powers the Bedroom and the outlets that are not wotking.  Use your VOM and verify power in the bedroom. Follow the line from the junction box to the upper left.  Do you have power there.  
 

you must determine a starting point and trace the circuits and go through the junction boxes.  Your description is not exactly clear to me.  If you have microwave power….one circuit is good….and whichever circuit’s breaker on it is OK.  YOU can turn OFF one of the breakers.  Microwave off and circuit 1 off….now you know. Then you focus on the OTHER” CIRCUIT.

If you don’t have a VOM, then use a cellphone charger and see which outlers work.  Print out the diagram and test every one…Mark them on the print.  Take a picture and post it we  can see. Mark it heavy …

you need to read the manual.  We need more specific information.

Thanks

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  • 1 month later...

After a lot of searching etc.i have not discovered why all the 110 sockets ahead of the entrance door are not working.I have only found one GFI which is located in the rear bathroom and none on the invertor as mentioned.Could anyone tell me where they have GFI so i can search and find one that i may be missing because to me it is a disconnect problem.

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19 minutes ago, bonfield said:

After a lot of searching etc.i have not discovered why all the 110 sockets ahead of the entrance door are not working.I have only found one GFI which is located in the rear bathroom and none on the invertor as mentioned.Could anyone tell me where they have GFI so i can search and find one that i may be missing because to me it is a disconnect problem.

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Although I doubt there's a another GFI Downstream of the one you found, you may want to look for a tripped circuit breaker on the inverter itself. My inverter has two small push button circuit breakers which will occasionally trip; pop out.

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Don’t know if this will help, but we have a GFI outlet on the radio/CD box outside (located on the curb side main slide). 

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2 hours ago, bonfield said:

After a lot of searching etc.i have not discovered why all the 110 sockets ahead of the entrance door are not working.I have only found one GFI which is located in the rear bathroom and none on the invertor as mentioned.Could anyone tell me where they have GFI so i can search and find one that i may be missing because to me it is a disconnect problem.

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OK...  From the TOP...

You have power to the Microwave?  CONFIRM please

You have power to all the other "INVERTER CONTROLLED" outlets....except the three up front? CONFIRM please.

The GFCI is in the rear.  If you go to page 8-329 of the manual, there is the block layout.  I had originally used a KNIGHT drawing....and maybe a Diplomat.  You have the Freedom Inverter.  There are two Circuit Breakers or such on the left.  There is a PIN style on the right.  ASSUMING you have power to all interior outlets (that work off the inverter) and the GFCI is NOT tripped and the Microwave works... THEN, the Manual points me to the conclusion.  ONLY ONE GFCI.

There are a FEW Monaco's that have some really RUBE style wiring and there are TWO GFCI's...but the assumption...  YOU HAVE ONE.

That leaves the only conclusiion.  There is one of the following.

  • Last Junction BOX (somewhere in the kitchen Galley area...I DID pull your Floorplan) that has loose wire nuts.
  • There is a bad piece of Romex (Monaco drove a staple in it and almost sheared the Black or White...it has now been a HIGH resistance connection...and that piece of wire has shorted or burned OUT.
  • The Junction box up front, behind the TV (generally speaking) has LOOSE wire nuts.

The GFCI is in the rear of the bathroom with the shower....did I GET THAT CORRECT.  It then runs up and splits for the Icemaker and the various wall outlets in the front bathroom.. THEN it heads UP FRONT and comes in somewhere to a Junction BOX in the front.  That is where you start.  Find the three circuits or outlets.  The TV outlet runs to a switch that may look like a Junction box.  It will have Two pieces of Romex and two small wires.  Trace from there. It should go back toward either one of the other two outlets...or maybe to the Junction Box. you have GOT to find that.  Pull the cover.  Check for incoming voltage and also the WIRE NUTS.  Wire nuts ain't my first choice for a MH, but Monaco used them.  OK...no incoming power to the J-BOX....then...

Find the Box that is feeding it.  EASIER SAID than done.  May need a toner or a chaser.  NOT my thing...but we have experts here.  IF you have power in and OUT of the J-Box...then a nicked or clipped or "CUT WIRE".  ODDS ARE....impossible to fix.  SO, you have to run a NEW piece of #12 from the FRONT J-Box to the REAR.  

NOW, as they say... a funny thing happened on the wat to the FORUM.  The Refrigerator COULD be feeding the front.  If the Icemaker circuit works....then look or follow that Romex.  If it goes to a J-Box or there is a PIECE of Romex coming OUT of the outlet....then that could well be the feed to the front.  LOGICALLY the rear to front Romex is on the passenger side....BUT, whoever said Monaco was logical.

That's it.  I think you are chasing a ghost for a SECOND GFCI.  WHY....the FRONT does NOT NEED GFCI protection....so WHY install a second GFCI for that?  

Good Luck...

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Checking the wiring diag it shows the affected sockets are all on the same line and the j box is located behind the load centre and also the bed tv and inverter.Is it possible that the GFI is hidden behind one of these.power to microwave YES power to other circuit YES
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On my coach a 2003 Beaver I had a similiar problem with plugs being dead. Found GFIs in bath and kitchen. Wasn't those. Just kept looking. Found a set of plugs in the compartment under where the water pump is that had some tank heaters plugged into them. One was a GFI and had popped. Killed plugs scattered all over. Just figured some guy in Bend was on wacky weed that day.

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13 minutes ago, CTerry said:

On my coach a 2003 Beaver I had a similiar problem with plugs being dead. Found GFIs in bath and kitchen. Wasn't those. Just kept looking. Found a set of plugs in the compartment under where the water pump is that had some tank heaters plugged into them. One was a GFI and had popped. Killed plugs scattered all over. Just figured some guy in Bend was on wacky weed that day.

Yes…there are some “heat” or winter protection packages that have GFCI’s.

NOW, with Monaco’s prints, they all show them dedicated to the individual circuits.

6 hours ago, bonfield said:
Checking the wiring diag it shows the affected sockets are all on the same line and the j box is located behind the load centre and also the bed tv and inverter.Is it possible that the GFI is hidden behind one of these.power to microwave YES power to other circuit YES
__

Do you have the specific prints for your motorhome?  We don’t.  You can upload the print you are referring to?  Also, we need the set of prints to add to the files.

Monaco did some strange things….but never would hide a GFCI.  CODE requires that they be easily accessible and also visible?  

The prints would also show if there were 2 GFCI’s…. I only see one on the block diagram.  Upload the print or take a picture of it.  When Monaco shows the circuits and lines…they also show the outlets and GFCI’s.

Thanks…

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All the sockets that do not work go through J-BOX 7 [B] and it is supposed to be behind the load centre /which i assume is the electerical box in the rear bedroom with the breakers and the fuses.Anyone any ideas how this can be troubleshooted as i think an electrition will be be aware of HR thinking

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46 minutes ago, bonfield said:

All the sockets that do not work go through J-BOX 7 [B] and it is supposed to be behind the load centre /which i assume is the electerical box in the rear bedroom with the breakers and the fuses.Anyone any ideas how this can be troubleshooted as i think an electrition will be be aware of HR thinking

BEST WAY.  Find the GCFI.  Check the screw terminals for being tight….then Remove it or pull it out from the box.Mark which piece of Romex goes to the top and which to the bottom. NEXT.  Remove the LOAD, most likely the bottom, wire or wires.  If you have two piece of Romex….then lightly twist the blacks to blacks and whites to whites.  Find the J Box.  You’re gonna have to get into it.  Remove the cover.  Get a 25 ft piece of #16 stranded hook up wire.  You’ll need two short leads with Alligator clips on both ends.  Put an alligator clip on the two BLACKS.  On the other end….put the clip on the hookup wire.  
 

FIND the J’box….and remove the cover.  You MIGHT get lucky….and find a broken wire….remove the wire and inspect.  IF all is well….then attach the hookup wire to the a meter lead.  Then to the hookup wire.  Probe one black.  Mark that Romex INCOMING.  Repeat for WHITE and GROUND.  SHOULD BE GOOD…

Now….get a 3 prong AC Plug.  Put short wires on each terminal….or maybe you can attach an alligator clip. Plug that into any up front outlet.  Then run the hookup wire back to the Junction Box and start to test each wire in the run to the front.  That is the only way.  If the meter shows CONTINUITY….you have a wire with a nick in it.  It works or tested OK, but when you out a load on it….the nick or split opens up.

YES, a household electrician can trouble shoot.  He has to find the bad piece of Romex.  Then if it between the J-box and the front….gonna have to run s new lead.  SOME have snaked a piece of Romex to the roof.  Then run plastic wiremold tomthe front….and down through the roof and fixed it. Others have drilled through the floor and run.  PROBLEM…how you gonna get it around the windshield.  NOW, if you have an outlet right under the dash on the right on the side of the console….run s new piece under the body, above the ceiling panels in the bays.  Then use the old INCOMING wire from the top to feed back up.


 

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I just remembered that I experienced the same problem a year ago. The problem ended up being one of the wires from a wire nut in the J box had broken off in the wire nut and looked connected but was not. Remove the wire nut strip the wire put it back together and smooth sailing since then.

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