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Battery Cutoff Switch


Craggar
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I'm sure I saw a post or two on this but couldn't find anything while doing a search. I want to replace both my battery cutoff switches but can't find the specs for amps. Anyone know what they should be?

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I just replaced mine. The specs were on the backside under the studs. Mine is 1250a  dc crank and 275a dc continuous.  Part # 701hbrv ( says house on the knob). I ordered it from Panther rv products. Note that I have a different coach than you.

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Thanks Matt, mine is the old style which I'm going to stay with just for ease of replacing but the specs on that one should be all I need to know to get the ones I need. 

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4 hours ago, Craggar said:

I'm sure I saw a post or two on this but couldn't find anything while doing a search. I want to replace both my battery cutoff switches but can't find the specs for amps. Anyone know what they should be?

Matt may have the correct switch.  OR NOT.  Monaco, that long ago, used some really exotic and funky switches.  Folks have gone down this path before.  What you want, I assume, is a switch that will fit exactly in the mounting holes and also meet the AMPS.  

You really NEED to post a picture.  I can think of about 10 different designs that I have seen.  SOME were especially made with brackets and such and you have NO room to move or build a plate or fabricate a mount without adding a high current stud and then putting in a custom jumper cable.

The MOST popular ones and the trusted are BLUE Seas.  They look like the Marinco....if you googled the PN, that takes you to Amazon and "MAYBE IT WILL WORK".  Amazon has an AMAZING data base.  You can put in a part number and their search identifies it as a "Battery Cutoff"...  BUT sometimes they don't carry it or is no longer in manufacturing....then BINGO, they do a generic search for Battery Cut Off switches and you get a plethora of "HEY....they are what we have..."

SO..  the MAIN THING.  

Pictures of WHAT your HAVE.  
Do you have a PN on the SWITCH

Is there a BRAND NAME on the Switch.  MANY of the older switches, like yours were no very well labeled...and even when folks pulled them OUT...they couldn't find them.  We have helped folks and found the old brands.  That is fuzzy, but I spent a lot of time in the OEM catalog, once we figured out WHO MADE it...and the switch was NO LONGER made...but there was a NEW model.  Now these were the SPECIALTY mounts.  Mounted like a tank and had a long handle.

SO...without the above info, those of us that help find STUFF are stymied...  

HOPEFULLY some one will chime IN.  I edited the TITLE to alert folks that BROWSE as to the YEAR....

Hope this explanation makes sense...

Post the specs and will then be able to chase.  I tried the usual  1998 Switch.  then 97 and 99... then WINDSOR CUTOFF....lots of info...but no cigar.

BOTTOM LINE....WHY do you want to replace.  There is a VERY SIMPLE and easy method to test the switches.  Then you will know if they are going bad and you need to or if they are fine.  

State the reason and if they are failing or you think so...then the procedure will be posted.

Thanks

 

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38 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Matt may have the correct switch.  OR NOT.  Monaco, that long ago, used some really exotic and funky switches.  Folks have gone down this path before.  What you want, I assume, is a switch that will fit exactly in the mounting holes and also meet the AMPS.  

You really NEED to post a picture.  I can think of about 10 different designs that I have seen.  SOME were especially made with brackets and such and you have NO room to move or build a plate or fabricate a mount without adding a high current stud and then putting in a custom jumper cable.

The MOST popular ones and the trusted are BLUE Seas.  They look like the Marinco....if you googled the PN, that takes you to Amazon and "MAYBE IT WILL WORK".  Amazon has an AMAZING data base.  You can put in a part number and their search identifies it as a "Battery Cutoff"...  BUT sometimes they don't carry it or is no longer in manufacturing....then BINGO, they do a generic search for Battery Cut Off switches and you get a plethora of "HEY....they are what we have..."

SO..  the MAIN THING.  

Pictures of WHAT your HAVE.  
Do you have a PN on the SWITCH

Is there a BRAND NAME on the Switch.  MANY of the older switches, like yours were no very well labeled...and even when folks pulled them OUT...they couldn't find them.  We have helped folks and found the old brands.  That is fuzzy, but I spent a lot of time in the OEM catalog, once we figured out WHO MADE it...and the switch was NO LONGER made...but there was a NEW model.  Now these were the SPECIALTY mounts.  Mounted like a tank and had a long handle.

SO...without the above info, those of us that help find STUFF are stymied...  

HOPEFULLY some one will chime IN.  I edited the TITLE to alert folks that BROWSE as to the YEAR....

Hope this explanation makes sense...

Post the specs and will then be able to chase.  I tried the usual  1998 Switch.  then 97 and 99... then WINDSOR CUTOFF....lots of info...but no cigar.

BOTTOM LINE....WHY do you want to replace.  There is a VERY SIMPLE and easy method to test the switches.  Then you will know if they are going bad and you need to or if they are fine.  

State the reason and if they are failing or you think so...then the procedure will be posted.

Thanks

 Yes your post makes perfect sense and the reason I want to replace mine is I can't shut them off so they are always on and have been since I've owned it.  Mine looks like the Moroso one below and I have one left over from my drag racing days so I just wanted to know if it could handle the amps. I'm not worried about being the exact same switch just that they will handle the amps and mount the same way. 

https://www.amazon.ca/Moroso-74101-Heavy-Duty-Battery-Disconnect/dp/B000CON4MA/ref=asc_df_B000CON4MA/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293019627766&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=111014011401714124&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20113&hvtargid=pla-571598931021&psc=1&mcid=d0275baff4313d778cb375bbb78c31e6

 

 

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16 hours ago, Craggar said:

 

OK...we are on the SAME PAGE.  It would be nice, when you replace the switches to post a picture of the OLD in place and the NEW.  We did spend a LOT of time with a really funky NO NAME Switch....and there was NO INFORMATION on it and we finally kept looking and found a picture and was able to "locate the manufacturer"

NOW, with your experience...you may KNOW this... OTHERS DO NOT.

There were TWO styles of Switches.  One is the SIMPLE.  It has nothing but TWO STUDS.  OK...my GS can handle that concept.

BUT, there were also, especially on the upper ends...and the Windsor was considered as an UPPER END... a FOUR terminal Switch.  There were TWO SMALL lugs...and they were USED to power some "stuff".  Many folks have bought the TWO STUD and put them in and then wrote....SOMETHING DON'T WORK.  Then, the photos revealed that they (or a Previous Owner) neglected to install the CORRECT ONE.  They just left the two "Low Current" terminal wires off.  AND THAT WAS NOT GOOD.

Most of the 2005 (GUESS) Dynasty and above had the FOUR wire switches...and, YES, many Owners purchased the TWO wire Blue Seas (the PN was different...but, hey...it FIT) and then wanted to know WHAT WAS WRONG.... NOW...  for the Windsor Owners..  That is an EXAMPLE...and Monaco changed their minds constantly.

THE MORAL.  Verify if you have a FOUR Terminal (Two Studs and Two small contacts) style switch.  if you do, try to find the correct 4 terminal switch.  IF NOT....either add a replacement ON/Off Toggle or straight wire the two small wires.  OTHERWISE...issues.

BUT, if you only have the TWO STUDS....rock on.

BUT... in some issues....which I was afraid here...the switch mounts were an abortion....as in there was ONLY one switch that would work without extensive recabling due to lengths and lack of slack.  In one case....there was absolutely NO ROOM.  The owner would have had to fabricate or had made a riser to mount on the OLD welded/bolt on bracket and then drilled it to take the NEW (usually Blue Seas) switch....and THEN he could use the cables.

That is the warning....which we see all to often and the reason for the depth of the discussion....

Let us see your handiwork...

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1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK...we are on the SAME PAGE.  It would be nice, when you replace the switches to post a picture of the OLD in place and the NEW.  We did spend a LOT of time with a really funky NO NAME Switch....and there was NO INFORMATION on it and we finally kept looking and found a picture and was able to "locate the manufacturer"

NOW, with your experience...you may KNOW this... OTHERS DO NOT.

There were TWO styles of Switches.  One is the SIMPLE.  It has nothing but TWO STUDS.  OK...my GS can handle that concept.

BUT, there were also, especially on the upper ends...and the Windsor was considered as an UPPER END... a FOUR terminal Switch.  There were TWO SMALL lugs...and they were USED to power some "stuff".  Many folks have bought the TWO STUD and put them in and then wrote....SOMETHING DON'T WORK.  Then, the photos revealed that they (or a Previous Owner) neglected to install the CORRECT ONE.  They just left the two "Low Current" terminal wires off.  AND THAT WAS NOT GOOD.

Most of the 2005 (GUESS) Dynasty and above had the FOUR wire switches...and, YES, many Owners purchased the TWO wire Blue Seas (the PN was different...but, hey...it FIT) and then wanted to know WHAT WAS WRONG.... NOW...  for the Windsor Owners..  That is an EXAMPLE...and Monaco changed their minds constantly.

THE MORAL.  Verify if you have a FOUR Terminal (Two Studs and Two small contacts) style switch.  if you do, try to find the correct 4 terminal switch.  IF NOT....either add a replacement ON/Off Toggle or straight wire the two small wires.  OTHERWISE...issues.

BUT, if you only have the TWO STUDS....rock on.

BUT... in some issues....which I was afraid here...the switch mounts were an abortion....as in there was ONLY one switch that would work without extensive recabling due to lengths and lack of slack.  In one case....there was absolutely NO ROOM.  The owner would have had to fabricate or had made a riser to mount on the OLD welded/bolt on bracket and then drilled it to take the NEW (usually Blue Seas) switch....and THEN he could use the cables.

That is the warning....which we see all to often and the reason for the depth of the discussion....

Let us see your handiwork...

I hear you and mine is only the two terminal but that could be from the previous owner who did some funky stuff with the electrical I’ve been learning. 
 I will probably do this next week and will post a picture but like I said it may be the wrong one in there now. 

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On 5/13/2024 at 9:08 AM, Tom Cherry said:

OK...we are on the SAME PAGE.  It would be nice, when you replace the switches to post a picture of the OLD in place and the NEW.  We did spend a LOT of time with a really funky NO NAME Switch....and there was NO INFORMATION on it and we finally kept looking and found a picture and was able to "locate the manufacturer"

NOW, with your experience...you may KNOW this... OTHERS DO NOT.

There were TWO styles of Switches.  One is the SIMPLE.  It has nothing but TWO STUDS.  OK...my GS can handle that concept.

BUT, there were also, especially on the upper ends...and the Windsor was considered as an UPPER END... a FOUR terminal Switch.  There were TWO SMALL lugs...and they were USED to power some "stuff".  Many folks have bought the TWO STUD and put them in and then wrote....SOMETHING DON'T WORK.  Then, the photos revealed that they (or a Previous Owner) neglected to install the CORRECT ONE.  They just left the two "Low Current" terminal wires off.  AND THAT WAS NOT GOOD.

Most of the 2005 (GUESS) Dynasty and above had the FOUR wire switches...and, YES, many Owners purchased the TWO wire Blue Seas (the PN was different...but, hey...it FIT) and then wanted to know WHAT WAS WRONG.... NOW...  for the Windsor Owners..  That is an EXAMPLE...and Monaco changed their minds constantly.

THE MORAL.  Verify if you have a FOUR Terminal (Two Studs and Two small contacts) style switch.  if you do, try to find the correct 4 terminal switch.  IF NOT....either add a replacement ON/Off Toggle or straight wire the two small wires.  OTHERWISE...issues.

BUT, if you only have the TWO STUDS....rock on.

BUT... in some issues....which I was afraid here...the switch mounts were an abortion....as in there was ONLY one switch that would work without extensive recabling due to lengths and lack of slack.  In one case....there was absolutely NO ROOM.  The owner would have had to fabricate or had made a riser to mount on the OLD welded/bolt on bracket and then drilled it to take the NEW (usually Blue Seas) switch....and THEN he could use the cables.

That is the warning....which we see all to often and the reason for the depth of the discussion....

Let us see your handiwork...

Because I said I would post a picture of the old one here it is. Nothing that I could read on the backside and I'm not even sure they were originals. So still no idea what the original amp ratings were but I picked up another Moroso switch and replaced these with them.

image_67171073.JPG

image_67211009 (1).JPG

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19 minutes ago, Craggar said:

Because I said I would post a picture of the old one here it is. Nothing that I could read on the backside and I'm not even sure they were originals. So still no idea what the original amp ratings were but I picked up another Moroso switch and replaced these with them.

image_67171073.JPG

image_67211009 (1).JPG

Some of the Cole - Hersee switches had, memory, a really robust and complex fabricated mounting bracket.  If the Moroso works and is 300 Amps or do and is 12 VDC  (can be higher), then you are good to go.  

300 is fine….some later models, in the upper ends, might have been 350.

Thanks for the picture…if you get a moment, the bracket and your new switch would be of interest to pre 2000 owners 

NOTE. This switch did not have the small, low amps additional contacts.  It is SPST.  The switches with the 4 contacts were DPST.

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17 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Some of the Cole - Hersee switches had, memory, a really robust and complex fabricated mounting bracket.  If the Moroso works and is 300 Amps or do and is 12 VDC  (can be higher), then you are good to go.  

300 is fine….some later models, in the upper ends, might have been 350.

Thanks for the picture…if you get a moment, the bracket and your new switch would be of interest to pre 2000 owners 

NOTE. This switch did not have the small, low amps additional contacts.  It is SPST.  The switches with the 4 contacts were DPST.

I think Bruce is right that they are factory and mine were installed similar to his probably where the back side is exposed to the elements. No fancy mount just a hole in the wall of the electrical bay which on mine is the last bay on the pass side. 
Raining again now but when it gets nice I will post a picture for you. 

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Certainly NO DOUBT on the mount.  We have seem some switches with NO NAME , PN or brand.  Just a simple lever….similar to this.

And those switches were a PITA to find and get a suitable replacment.

Still, no rush, a picture of the installed switch.  This helps members in the future.

Glad it was simple.

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