Magnum ME-2012 Inverter Compatibility with LiFePO4 Batteries

[Brad Loehr]

I have started doing the research into upgrading my house batteries to four 100 Ah LifePO4 batteries to replace the flooded 6 V batteries I have currently.

I have decided to go with four Renogy 100 Ah batteries, a 300 Amp smart battery shunt, a 50 amp DC to DC charger with MPTT (to elimate alternator fatigue), and the Renogy One Core monitor. 

The problem I ran into is my Magnum ME-2012 inverter charger is too old (2005).  It has the custom battery charge settings in the ME-RC50 but when speaking with tech support from Magnum he says my software is too old at version 3.6 and for the inverter to understand the settings the version needs to be 5.9 or higher.  

Info from Magnum:

"Thanks for reaching out to Magnum Technical Support today. You were looking for the settings to charge Lithium batteries. I have attached to this email a Magnum ME-RC50 remote setting sheet with the settings you should program into your remote for your Lithium batteries. Before you program them in I would like you to verify the firmware of the ME2012. The ME-RC50 is lithium compatible. Press the TECH button under the display and 01 Temperatures will be displayed on the display. now turn the spin button 1-click to the right to 02 Versions and press the spin button to select. Inverter version will be displayed. This version needs to be version 5.9 or higher. If version is 5.4 or lower the inverter will not understand the settings I just sent you. The batteries will charge weird. If you have installed your Lithium check and make sure that you did not attach the ME-BTS (Battery Temp Sensor) this is no longer needed it is plugged into the Yellow port on the inverter. The Lithium batteries have their own BMS which takes care of this and when ME-BTS is installed will cause weird charging of the batteries. "

Magnum has told me I need to replace the inverter or the control board to update to LFP.  I have a few questions for anyone that has done the Lithium conversion with the Magnum inverters and ran into this same issues:

Do I need to purchase a new control board or can the old one be reprogrammed?  

Do I need to replace my ME-RC50 control monitor to a newer version? 

Do I need to replace my AGS control to a newer version?

What have other people used in place of the Magnum inverter/chargers for charging the LFP batteries?

I have seen that some people have used the CC-CV charge mode settings for LFP batteries.  Anyone else use them?

CC-CV (CC is Bulk & CV is Absorb) Charge Settings for 4 100 Ah LFP batteries : Max charge current 100A, CV volts 14.4 V, CV charge done time 2 hours, CV charge done Amps 0 A, Max CC-CV charge time 6 hours, Set re-charge volts 13.2 V, Cut out volts 12 V

 

In case you have version 5.9 or higher I have included the document from Magnum on what to set your charge parameters to for LFP batteries.

ME-RC50 LFP Battery Settings.docx

[Rocketman3]

I can’t help with Magnum- I went with a Victron Multiplus for the inverter/charger. Yep it is expensive- but there are many benefits for RV’s. (If you want to know them - ask).

I don’t know the Renogy batteries - can you see the individual cell voltages in each battery with an app or the monitor device? This is a must have feature!!! a ways down the road the cells may get out of balance - with some kind of monitoring- you can know they are and you can know when they are back in balance.

Also do they have low temperature charging protection (most batteries do - but you want to make sure).

I did the CV/CC charging to 14.3v and float at 13.5v - set equalization to 14.4 if it has it (a good safe voltage).  I would only set CV charge time to 30 min. But before you lower you need to know what voltage the BMS starts balancing and make sure there is plenty of time for the balancing to occur.
 

I believe my batteries are slightly happier being charged to a lower voltage- which is why I slightly lowered to charge voltage.

Good Luck!

 

 

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, Brad Loehr said:

I have started doing the research into upgrading my house batteries to four 100 Ah LifePO4 batteries to replace the flooded 6 V batteries I have currently.

I have decided to go with four Renogy 100 Ah batteries, a 300 Amp smart battery shunt, a 50 amp DC to DC charger with MPTT (to elimate alternator fatigue), and the Renogy One Core monitor. 

The problem I ran into is my Magnum ME-2012 inverter charger is too old (2005).  It has the custom battery charge settings in the ME-RC50 but when speaking with tech support from Magnum he says my software is too old at version 3.6 and for the inverter to understand the settings the version needs to be 5.9 or higher.  

Info from Magnum:

"Thanks for reaching out to Magnum Technical Support today. You were looking for the settings to charge Lithium batteries. I have attached to this email a Magnum ME-RC50 remote setting sheet with the settings you should program into your remote for your Lithium batteries. Before you program them in I would like you to verify the firmware of the ME2012. The ME-RC50 is lithium compatible. Press the TECH button under the display and 01 Temperatures will be displayed on the display. now turn the spin button 1-click to the right to 02 Versions and press the spin button to select. Inverter version will be displayed. This version needs to be version 5.9 or higher. If version is 5.4 or lower the inverter will not understand the settings I just sent you. The batteries will charge weird. If you have installed your Lithium check and make sure that you did not attach the ME-BTS (Battery Temp Sensor) this is no longer needed it is plugged into the Yellow port on the inverter. The Lithium batteries have their own BMS which takes care of this and when ME-BTS is installed will cause weird charging of the batteries. "

Magnum has told me I need to replace the inverter or the control board to update to LFP.  I have a few questions for anyone that has done the Lithium conversion with the Magnum inverters and ran into this same issues:

Do I need to purchase a new control board or can the old one be reprogrammed?  

Do I need to replace my ME-RC50 control monitor to a newer version? 

Do I need to replace my AGS control to a newer version?

What have other people used in place of the Magnum inverter/chargers for charging the LFP batteries?

I have seen that some people have used the CC-CV charge mode settings for LFP batteries.  Anyone else use them?

CC-CV (CC is Bulk & CV is Absorb) Charge Settings for 4 100 Ah LFP batteries : Max charge current 100A, CV volts 14.4 V, CV charge done time 2 hours, CV charge done Amps 0 A, Max CC-CV charge time 6 hours, Set re-charge volts 13.2 V, Cut out volts 12 V

 

In case you have version 5.9 or higher I have included the document from Magnum on what to set your charge parameters to for LFP batteries.

ME-RC50 LFP Battery Settings.docx 7.18 kB · 0 downloads

Practically,...Time to get out the credit card. The useful life of your inverter is way past OLD AGE. 

Putting in a NEW control board, especially on a MSV inverter, no offense, even if you do it yourself, is not cost effective.  The boards, depending on where you buy them, are in the $500 or so...or more...and that might be for a refurbished one...  NOW that info may be a bit old....but I have asked Magnum, several times over the years, what, if the control board is dead, should a member do.

SAME ANSWER.  Now Magnum has updated their Techs.  Caleb (memory) and the lady (sounds young).  The older techs all were pretty straight forward.  FORGET IT...

Practically, you will need to install a new PSW inverter.  it will come with the BTS.  BUT...YES, you WILL NEED a new Remote.  If you are NOT of the mind for the BMK (Battery Monitoring Kit)...specifically for the Magnum, then don't even  think about wasting your money on the ME - ACR or the ADVANCED remote.  The current one will work fine.

The AGS, assuming it is the 5 Knob, is reliable as a leaky life boat and you are in the middle of the Pacific.  The AGS-N is totally plug and play.  SO, it all pops in. We have threads on that.. The KNOBS style has a separate thread and that explains a whole lot about that issue.

NOW, many that have as much as you have invested...or will invest...in batteries DO WANT a "Shunt Based Monitoring System".  Victron makes one and the most recent experiences that I have had helping a Windsor owner and knowing his "knowledge and skill set", I would compare costs....  The cost of the upgrade to the Advanced or BMK compatible remote and the BMK kit.  I THINK the VIctron is a little more "high techy looking" so it reminds folks of their smart phones.  In the Windsor's case, he did NOT have a Magnum inverter.  

BUT, if I was putting in a NEW inverter, Remote, AGS .... I would give serious consideration to the upgrade and stay with the entire Magnum system.  We have members that are more than experts...they could do Magnum Tech Support...SO... staying with an entire system designed on one platform would be my choice.

BUT...  You FIRST have to decide if you WANT the Shunt based system...and then price out the VIctron.  I'd do some research and see how it integrates with the Magnum and what the reviews and satisfaction is.....as well as the costs of Victron vs Magnum...

There will be, as usual, members that will have differing opinions.  BUT, when Magnum recommends an upgrade...and based on the investment in your batteries, it seems foolish to me to pour money into a 19 YO device and try to "upgrade" it to make it work. The Control board will or may do that...but the rest of the package (remote and AGS) is gonna have to be done...

OK...maybe you can come close...but the $$ involved and having your expensive Lithiums fail....would not be worth the risk to me.

FWIW, I have helped more members on Magnum issues than I can count.  I have spent hours, over the years, asking questions and learning about the Magnums...and I STILL call and ask...

SO, based on what I know and the fact that I have been able to help maybe 20 members do RESETS and understand and salvage their 10 - 20 year old Magnums....my gut and experience and knowledge says...

Based on this discussion, many times and even more recently.. the reality of it is what you might not want to read.  Can't sugar coat it, perhaps put a little more bluntly..  Putting a  new board in the 17 YO Magnum is only part of the issues.  There is another board (power) as well as fans and sensors and such.  SO. it will NOT be a total rebuild...just a partial and it is at risk of other failures. 

That's my recommendation....based on what you said....Magnum said...and what I know from experience with many other members.

 

 

[Brad Loehr]

As always, thanks for the info Tom.

I get it for sure, the Magnum I have is really old but all in all the coach was not used very much at all and is in amazing shape.  I will see what Magnum comes back with a reply for costs associated with a new board or inverter replacement.  

As for the LFP battery monitoring system; the 50 Amp DC to DC with solar MPTT will control my solar charging for both house and chassis batteries and it will also eliminate the battery boost solenoid and the cabling that will over run the alternator so I can let the DC to DC charger do the work.  The Renogy DC to DC converter and smart battery shunt connects to the Core One Display and will be able to monitor everything onboard on the display and over the phone.  The batteries have quality BMS installed in each one.

The only thing I want the inverter/charger to do is give me inverted power when I need it and to properly charge my LFP batteries.  

My AGS does work in test mode but as for the other controls (voltage, temp, etc) it does not work automatically.  The coach is fairly new to me and I havent got into troubleshooting it yet but to me it is a nice thing to have in the future.  Whether I stick with Magnum or go with Victron or another inverter is to be decided.  

In all of the readers opinion:

If I had to buy a new Magnum inverter and other components what would you recommend? It would be nice to have more than 2000 watts of power...

If I had to buy a new Victron what is the best for that system?

Is there any others that I should look at?

Do I just cheap out and say screw it and buy another four 6 volt Trojan T-105s?

2 hours ago, Rocketman3 said:

I can’t help with Magnum- I went with a Victron Multiplus for the inverter/charger. Yep it is expensive- but there are many benefits for RV’s. (If you want to know them - ask).

If you could I would like to know why you went with Victron and what that system looks like. Thanks for your input

[Tom Cherry]

10 minutes ago, Brad Loehr said:

As always, thanks for the info Tom.

I get it for sure, the Magnum I have is really old but all in all the coach was not used very much at all and is in amazing shape.  I will see what Magnum comes back with a reply for costs associated with a new board or inverter replacement.  

As for the LFP battery monitoring system; the 50 Amp DC to DC with solar MPTT will control my solar charging for both house and chassis batteries and it will also eliminate the battery boost solenoid and the cabling that will over run the alternator so I can let the DC to DC charger do the work.  The Renogy DC to DC converter and smart battery shunt connects to the Core One Display and will be able to monitor everything onboard on the display and over the phone.  The batteries have quality BMS installed in each one.

The only thing I want the inverter/charger to do is give me inverted power when I need it and to properly charge my LFP batteries.  

My AGS does work in test mode but as for the other controls (voltage, temp, etc) it does not work automatically.  The coach is fairly new to me and I havent got into troubleshooting it yet but to me it is a nice thing to have in the future.  Whether I stick with Magnum or go with Victron or another inverter is to be decided.  

In all of the readers opinion:

If I had to buy a new Magnum inverter and other components what would you recommend? It would be nice to have more than 2000 watts of power...

If I had to buy a new Victron what is the best for that system?

Is there any others that I should look at?

Do I just cheap out and say screw it and buy another four 6 volt Trojan T-105s?

First...Magnum has sort of backed off from "the  OK, this is what is most logical"  Maybe the new owner.  But the older techs would shy away, based on useful life...from putting a board on a 8 - 10 YO UNIT.  Some have...with good results...but they did it themselves and Magnum assumes it will be done by one of the certified techs or distributors.

Thus, my comment.  Why spend 50% or more for a 17 Year Old box...with a whole lot more components.  That is the rule of thumb that industry uses on Replace vs Repair...this one fails misearabely....or it wound if I were approving the expenditure...which I did and we were in the hundreds of thousands...but the logic applies

Next...  You will need a total rebuild of the AC distribution system to get full value from the 2,800 units.  There are TWO outputs on the 2012. NOT SO, the 2812 needs dual inverters in the AC panel and a full blow, 8 breaker sub panel.  SO, you have a problem.  You can copy the Monaco system...but a 2,800 is wasted.  The ONLY reason for the extra 800 Watts...a Res Refer.  We have hundreds...maybe more that are FINE with the 2000 watt inverter.  They understand that you can exist quite nicely.  NOW...some like NOT to use their Genny.  So, depends on what your needs and motivations and wantees are...

The extra 800 was to give you full 2000 Watts...of HOUSE power....and most have not exceeded that or had issue.

Victron upgrades and all sort of goodies and systems are a HORSE of ANOTHER COLOR.  We have Threads specifically on that.  Put Victron in the Search Box.  Click on Everywhere and pick topics.  Put on a large pot of coffee (not DECAF) and read and read...then PM folks or call them and discuss. 

OK...now, if you READ the Battery 101 and the Magnum HOW TO SET UP files, which I was asked to pull together and author, I am a simple person.  You can spend say $700 for 4 new 225 Amp Hour Trojan T-105's.  Maybe another $50 for the Battery Miser caps.  Then less than $50 for a "Halogen Work Light" and a hydrometer.  This assumes yo have a DVOM.

You keep the fluid level where it should be and the NEW Trojans have a MARK for that...no guessing.  You exercise or run down, to around 50%, the Trojans every 4 - 6 months or so...I multitask and do things to the MH.  The actual battery maintenance takes maybe an hour each time...but you have to discharge...so you fix things...or surf...  

Folks are ROUTINELY getting 8 or more years from the Trojans. NOW...these folks, like me, do the PM...but our costs per year are minimal.  YOU CAN KEEP your existing Magnum....and such.  IF the Magnum dies....upgrade to PSW and get a new remote. I do NOT need nor would utilize the BMK or Shunt system. Others do...If you do BOON DOCK and run down the Trojans every few months....all you need to do is refill...BUT read the two Papers..

Personally...and I HOPE this does not offend anyone...  I don't see Lithiums in my future....even if the cost comes down.  There is a HECK OF A LOT MORE RISK or damage if you are NOT a real expert on them. I know how to and COULD keep them up and use them.  BUT, I do fine with Lead Acid's  We have had many members that felt that putting in the AGM's and never touching them was the panacea...and then they found out...you have to STILL exercise...but not refill the cells.  Many have been disillusioned and reverted back...most to Trojans.

SO...the call is yours.  IF I had a brand new, upper end....way above the old Monaco Sig...I WOULD expect Lithiums...but that entire electrical system was designed around them....

The Monaco systems were never even designed for AGM's.  Fortunately the Magnums will work with them.  Magnum is probably NOT the most technologically advanced and their forte is LEAD ACID...or AGM's.  SO...  I would not, even with what I know I can do and my understanding, put Lithiums on a Magnum.  I'd start over.

BUT, to do that...you need to totally understand what ocean you are now swimming in...and it like like the backyard pool at your house.

We DO have experts...and they know HOW to rewire and they take a different route.  From my "Cost evaluation" standpoint...the total upgrade of my system with components that would protect the Lithiums would be way too much to invest...and the return on that investment would be POOR....very poor compared to my conventional system with Trojans. Mine works for me.  I don't SCRIMP on batteries... I use Trojans and maintain them. 

SO.. It costs me maybe $100 per year, depreciated, to have a robust and reliable DC inverter system.  Even if I had to purchase a NEW Magnum PSW, that with the accessories and such, would only be $2000 or so...but then and ONLY then, would I sit down and cost estimate and design, after a LOT of research....a Lithium system.  The cost of the cells would be a key factor...

That's my take.  This is my opinion, which you asked me and others for...

SO....read and learn...and then do the cost analysis and remember....that money into a 19 YO box....will only be a money pit...and if it FAILS....Then the odds are HIGH...you have damaged your Lithiums...

Good Luck...great questions...

[Rocketman3]

The reason I went with Victron:

#1 Reliability- They started in the marine world

#2 interconnected. If you go “all Victron” (except batteries), it all talks to each other. Plus most devices store their data for a while - so when you have issues you can see what was happened.

This is where Victron shines: You can tell the inverter how many (120v) amps to pull from the grid. My usual options are 50a, 35a (generator), 30a, 15a and 7.5a the minimum (they can be adjusted by .1a). If there are more loads than can be pulled from the grid, PowerAssist will pull the amps from the batteries to makeup the shortfall, then after the loads drop it automatically recharges the batteries.

This last winter we were in Baja at a park (30a).  As the park filled up, the power got worse. I lowered my input to 7.5a. I didn’t even notice that our PowerWatchdog kept dropping power and restarting it for a while - the lights and computer and Starlink never had a flicker. My wife was cooking - using the convection microwave. Never even noticed. The park manager asked me how the power was (he had been getting complaints) - I said - There were issues huh? Later other people gave me an earful about how bad the power was. 

Victron inverter has a very low standby watts (important for us boondockers), it also has a very good surge to help get things started.

For our 50amp rigs (with 12v) this is what you want:

inverter - Multiplus II 12/3000 2x120v 120amps of 12v charging. You can set all voltages (bulk, float, storage) by .1v and use any kind of battery- because you can give the battery the charge it wants. Cost $1134

Here is the spec sheet:

 https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-MultiPlus-II-3kVA-2x120V-EN-.pdf

Shunt/Battery Monitor: SmartShunt $112 or BMV712 $159 the difference is a remote display.

Dc-Dc charger 50a $328

GX Device: this is a small “computer” that ties everything together. There are several variations- Cerbo & Touch are the most common $495 

Solar charger : depends on the size of your array… a 800w array mppt 100/50 $184

various communication Cables etc - $100.

The advantage of connecting everything to the Cerbo is first you can see exactly what is happening. If your rig has internet, you can look at what is going on anywhere on the Web. (Very nice when my rig was in the shop and the Residential fridge was full of food).

This is my older CCGX, not the newer Cerbo &Touch.

A few nice things it does is it will pass the temperature and battery current and voltage to all charge devices, so each device can compensate for voltage drop and help supply current uses.

Each device can hookup to a phone app - Victron Connect. And you can see the exact details (that’s one way to program each device).

My Victron dealer is https://www.continuousresources.com/

Buy from a dealer not Amazon - your dealer will help you get everything and know the systems well.

I installed my inverter 4years ago -2-1/2 years of full-time 24/7-365. No issues…
 

Good Luck

If there are any parts I didn’t explain well - let me know - also there is a lot on YouTube.

[Rocketman3]

One more item…

I am very involved on the DIYSolarForum, and on that site Renogy does not have a good reputation.  It seems they remarket other manufacturers products. Some are good others not so much… Their customer service and technical knowledge seem poor. They do a fabulous job marketing their products.

I have only used some 100w Solar Renogy panels- they have worked just fine. May want to pop over there and look at reviews.

 

[wamcneil]

“If I had to buy a new Magnum inverter and other components what would you recommend? It would be nice to have more than 2000 watts of power...“
If I were doing it again, I would go to higher voltage 24v-48v. Trying to get more than 2000w out of 12v is just silly in my opinion. On my rig, the 12v system has preposterously long 4/0 cables and is nowhere near capable of efficiently handling 200a, much less the 300a needed for a bigger inverter. 
I don’t have any victron gear, but I would agree with anyone that says the victron ecosystem is superior to anything you can cobble together with magnum hardware. Victron is a thoroughly modern and well integrated system. Magnum is not. 
But when I upgraded from the old xantrex inverter I bought magnum. 
For me, there were just too many other costs involved with building up the victron system to the point where I could take advantage of all the greatness. Once I evaluated the logistics and cost on both the 12v system , 240v side and solar, the ms2000 was the far more compelling option for me. 
Magnum has a 2-in/2-out hybrid inverter that is nowhere near as cool and integrated as a victron system, but would be a very simple drop-in upgrade for your old ME
 

[saflyer]

On 5/17/2024 at 7:01 PM, Tom Cherry said:

Practically,...Time to get out the credit card. The useful life of your inverter is way past OLD AGE. 

Putting in a NEW control board, especially on a MSV inverter, no offense, even if you do it yourself, is not cost effective.  The boards, depending on where you buy them, are in the $500 or so...or more...and that might be for a refurbished one...  NOW that info may be a bit old....but I have asked Magnum, several times over the years, what, if the control board is dead, should a member do.

SAME ANSWER.  Now Magnum has updated their Techs.  Caleb (memory) and the lady (sounds young).  The older techs all were pretty straight forward.  FORGET IT...

Practically, you will need to install a new PSW inverter.  it will come with the BTS.  BUT...YES, you WILL NEED a new Remote.  If you are NOT of the mind for the BMK (Battery Monitoring Kit)...specifically for the Magnum, then don't even  think about wasting your money on the ME - ACR or the ADVANCED remote.  The current one will work fine.

The AGS, assuming it is the 5 Knob, is reliable as a leaky life boat and you are in the middle of the Pacific.  The AGS-N is totally plug and play.  SO, it all pops in. We have threads on that.. The KNOBS style has a separate thread and that explains a whole lot about that issue.

NOW, many that have as much as you have invested...or will invest...in batteries DO WANT a "Shunt Based Monitoring System".  Victron makes one and the most recent experiences that I have had helping a Windsor owner and knowing his "knowledge and skill set", I would compare costs....  The cost of the upgrade to the Advanced or BMK compatible remote and the BMK kit.  I THINK the VIctron is a little more "high techy looking" so it reminds folks of their smart phones.  In the Windsor's case, he did NOT have a Magnum inverter.  

BUT, if I was putting in a NEW inverter, Remote, AGS .... I would give serious consideration to the upgrade and stay with the entire Magnum system.  We have members that are more than experts...they could do Magnum Tech Support...SO... staying with an entire system designed on one platform would be my choice.

BUT...  You FIRST have to decide if you WANT the Shunt based system...and then price out the VIctron.  I'd do some research and see how it integrates with the Magnum and what the reviews and satisfaction is.....as well as the costs of Victron vs Magnum...

There will be, as usual, members that will have differing opinions.  BUT, when Magnum recommends an upgrade...and based on the investment in your batteries, it seems foolish to me to pour money into a 19 YO device and try to "upgrade" it to make it work. The Control board will or may do that...but the rest of the package (remote and AGS) is gonna have to be done...

OK...maybe you can come close...but the $$ involved and having your expensive Lithiums fail....would not be worth the risk to me.

FWIW, I have helped more members on Magnum issues than I can count.  I have spent hours, over the years, asking questions and learning about the Magnums...and I STILL call and ask...

SO, based on what I know and the fact that I have been able to help maybe 20 members do RESETS and understand and salvage their 10 - 20 year old Magnums....my gut and experience and knowledge says...

Based on this discussion, many times and even more recently.. the reality of it is what you might not want to read.  Can't sugar coat it, perhaps put a little more bluntly..  Putting a  new board in the 17 YO Magnum is only part of the issues.  There is another board (power) as well as fans and sensors and such.  SO. it will NOT be a total rebuild...just a partial and it is at risk of other failures. 

That's my recommendation....based on what you said....Magnum said...and what I know from experience with many other members.

 

 

I had a system with an ME-2012 that I had upgraded to the ME-ARC and ME-BMK. When I switched to lithium batteries I upgraded the inverter to a MS-2012. Since then I’m learning Magnum doesn’t seem to be doing much to keep up with new tech. For instance I don’t think they’ve added Bluetooth capabilities to any of their devices yet.

I recently learned the original BMK doesn’t work well with lithium batteries. As I recall it works but the state of charge gets less accurate over time and there may be other problems. They now have a BMK for lithium but it’s hard to find. One vendor tried to pawn off a regular BMK as a lithium one. Magnum doesn’t help as their sensor has no identifying marking on it. It’s just a black box. They put a sticker on the lithium sensor that says “Lithium”, that’s it. 
 

I wanted to stay with Magnum because it should have been as close to plug and play as possible. In hindsight I should have looked hard at going with a Victron system.

Ed         
‘05 HR Ambassador 

[Brad Loehr]

On 5/18/2024 at 7:11 AM, Rocketman3 said:

I am very involved on the DIYSolarForum, and on that site Renogy does not have a good reputation.  It seems they remarket other manufacturers products. Some are good others not so much… Their customer service and technical knowledge seem poor

As of right now I have to say that Renogy customer service has been exceptional with me so far.  They respond quickly and are very knowledgeable with all of my questions about their products on the spec out of my LFP conversion components.  I am looking at getting a 50 Amp DC to DC converter with MPTT, four 100 Ah LFP CORE batteries, 300 Amp smart battery shunt, One CORE monitor system with Bluetooth module, and a remote ambient temp sensor, smart relay, and smart 110 volt plug for automation for different scenes to monitor and control battery cabinet temperature while in the Baja.  We will see about longevity and after sales service once I place the order but for now everything seems like Renogy has good support.  I have used a Renogy solar charge controller with Bluetooth for many years and it works the way it should so I think I am okay with working with them.  

As for forums and complaints, you have to filter the people that self induce their issues and or do not have the skillset to rectify their problems.  It seems that complaints are the loudest with people that do not know what they are doing.

As for Magnum customer support, it has been really poor in my experience on trying to find out the details of their inverters and LFP charging.  They are very slow to respond and it seems like they do not know their product 100% which I would not expect.  I can find most of my information I need when doing a fair bit of research on their website but crucial details on the how specifically does the charging work for CC-CV, Gel, Custom, and LFP on the inverter versions. I am still trying to get detailed information from them and see what the differences are on battery types and how they inverters respond.  I am probably just going to go to the coach and physically measure the current ab voltage for the parameters I want to see.

More to come...

[Tom Cherry]

4 minutes ago, Brad Loehr said:

As of right now I have to say that Renogy customer service has been exceptional with me so far.  They respond quickly and are very knowledgeable with all of my questions about their products on the spec out of my LFP conversion components.  I am looking at getting a 50 Amp DC to DC converter with MPTT, four 100 Ah LFP CORE batteries, 300 Amp smart battery shunt, One CORE monitor system with Bluetooth module, and a remote ambient temp sensor, smart relay, and smart 110 volt plug for automation for different scenes to monitor and control battery cabinet temperature while in the Baja.  We will see about longevity and after sales service once I place the order but for now everything seems like Renogy has good support.  I have used a Renogy solar charge controller with Bluetooth for many years and it works the way it should so I think I am okay with working with them.  

As for forums and complaints, you have to filter the people that self induce their issues and or do not have the skillset to rectify their problems.  It seems that complaints are the loudest with people that do not know what they are doing.

As for Magnum customer support, it has been really poor in my experience on trying to find out the details of their inverters and LFP charging.  They are very slow to respond and it seems like they do not know their product 100% which I would not expect.  I can find most of my information I need when doing a fair bit of research on their website but crucial details on the how specifically does the charging work for CC-CV, Gel, Custom, and LFP on the inverter versions. I am still trying to get detailed information from them and see what the differences are on battery types and how they inverters respond.  I am probably just going to go to the coach and physically measure the current ab voltage for the parameters I want to see.

More to come...

Great that you are doing a deep dive and deciding what is best for you, what you understand and also appreciate the complexity of Lithium installation.

As to Magnum, there has been turnover in the Tech support.  There used to be at least 4.  Now there are 2. They don’t offer the “OK, in our experience” support that they did a few years ago.  I had to tell them that there was ONE VERSION of the remotes that actually let you program or take over setting the 5 KNOB AGS. The 2008 Dynasties required manual knob settings.  Same AGS in the 2009 Camelot, the Remote “overrode” the knobs….you set all the parameters from the remote.

MY TAKE….Magnum is the workhorse of the RV & Marine Industry. That’s what they understand and flooded/AGM’s are predominantly the OEM batteries.  They are, as you point out, slow…and probably technologically behind. From being involved with “buggy whip” companies and understanding the corporate and marketing mindset…. Their focus is on what they are selling and that demographic.  Lithium batteries are a different breed of cats. We have a lot of expertise here.

Whether there is any economic benefit is something that will be debated.  If one wants more advanced technology and is prepared to do the research and understands that today’s Lithiums are not as robust as Flooded or AGM’s…but they design the systems and purchase the components to do a complete upgrade…then they will reap the benefits. I, and others…with way more experience and electronics knowledge! “FEEL” that we are satisfied with our Trojans and Magnums and such.

BUT…if we decided to go the Lithium route…we would abandon Magnum and then gut and do it right. We also don’t overtax our electrical systems and feel that 2000 watts, even with the addition of a residential refrigerator, will still be OK.

NOW…a little know factoid…. I THINK, and just verified.  A Magnum 2800 watt will invert and provide 2,800 watts.  Where a 2000 is just that. However, the total watts for BOTH is 3,900.  That is limited by 30amp circuit breaker(s). The single in - dual out and dual in - dual out is the same…. Just the way the power is distributed.

THUS…the only advantage of a 2800 over a 2000….800 more watts on the inverter. BUT for the MH’s “NOT INVERTING” AC capacity…same.  As the 30 amps come from the main panel and then is redistributed via the Magnum.  Just because there are DUAL IN breakers…there is NOT 60 amps…and TYPICALLY, if one does not have the Dynasty sub panel….then rewiring for a Dual IN is a bit challenging.

However, if one puts in a 2800, and there was no subpanel, like the Camelot and down….one will have to add one.

Keep digging.  Keep reading.  That’s the only way to protect your investment…

[Brad Loehr]

3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

 I had to tell them that there was ONE VERSION of the remotes that actually let you program or take over setting the 5 KNOB AGS. The 2008 Dynasties required manual knob settings.  Same AGS in the 2009 Camelot, the Remote “overrode” the knobs….you set all the parameters from the remote.

Funny that you say that.  I have the dial/knob (non network) AGS module and when pressing the test button the generator starts up properly.  However my voltage to start the generator setting does not work.  I have a ME-RC50 old remote version 2.8 and again I can test the generator start digitally through the remote and it starts up fine.  Settings for the AGS are available in this remote but once again voltage setting to start the generator does not work.  I have to troubleshoot which settings are controlling the generator in the near future.  I am assuming it is the dial/knob style AGS module that will override the remote controls settings. Any experience/issues with this?

[Tom Cherry]

4 hours ago, Brad Loehr said:

Funny that you say that.  I have the dial/knob (non network) AGS module and when pressing the test button the generator starts up properly.  However my voltage to start the generator setting does not work.  I have a ME-RC50 old remote version 2.8 and again I can test the generator start digitally through the remote and it starts up fine.  Settings for the AGS are available in this remote but once again voltage setting to start the generator does not work.  I have to troubleshoot which settings are controlling the generator in the near future.  I am assuming it is the dial/knob style AGS module that will override the remote controls settings. Any experience/issues with this?

Let me state it different for Clarity.  This is based on @Frank McElroy and I comparing notes and experiences as well as, GOD FORBID, reading the Monaco Manual.

In 2008 (Dynasty) the Monaco manual said…. Remote will enable or disable the AGS. BUT, you MUST use the Knobs.  Frank has tested that….so we can verify.

In 2009 (Camelot), the Monaco manual said….KNOBS ARE NONFUNCTIONAL….Set parameters from the Remote.  I used my AGS a few times and it, as beat I can recall, functioned properly.  

THEN….it BROKE. Magnum had me (took 45 minutes) test and troubleshoot the AGS. The “test button” on the AGS would NOT work. If I jumpered the wires on the plug to the AGS, the start and stop functions worked….therefore NOT a wiring issue. But the Remote would not “work it”. They never ONCE, after they saw the Rev Level of the Remote and the Inverter, told me….he DUMMY…the KNOBS have to be set.

NOW….there is NO GUARANTEE on yours….if you had the same remote….rev level as mine….maybe (most likely) it would start when the temp called for it or the voltage dropped.

That also throws in another “wringer”….the rev level of your Modified (I think you have the ME and not the MS).

Bottom line, there was a change somewhere circa 2009.  Maybe someone can test and chime in….that change in the remote or maybe an upgrade within the inverter made the knob settings NON FUNCTIONAL. Rarely, do we out 100% stock in the manuals…but both our experiences coincide with the manual’s instructions.

Hope this clears it up….snd I called that out to Magnum and they said…  Gee, our stuff says NOPE….hard to argue that a Manufacturer like Monaco would get it 100% wrong….  NOW, the AGS-N was not widely used….and was a more reliable AGS than the 5 KNOB.

BTW….how about 39 posts on this same topic….fixing….and also “how it work”….read on….