Heliotrope RV-30D Solar Charge Controller

[Malcolm]

Looking for a Heliotrope RV-30D Solar Charge Controller for a 2001 Monaco Signature. 

[jacwjames]

These have been long obsolete. 

What problems are you having?

[Malcolm]

Hi Jim. Thanks for the quick reply.  The issue is I have lost the display and the ability to check the chassis and house battery voltages.   The charge light goes on, but that's it.  The display otherwise is blank.  I am attaching a picture.  Thoughts?

[jacwjames]

So the solar charging is working but you aren't seeing the voltages.  Have you checked the wiring/pigtail that goes from the solar charger to the display??  It might have worked it way loose. 

On recent mod that I've done is to install a Victron BMV712  https://www.victronenergy.com/display-and-panels/bmv-712-smart  

This is a shunt type monitor and I actually mounted the display next to the solar & inverter display.  I seldom look at the display but rather use the bluetooth function. 

[Malcolm]

Yes, I reseated all of the connections and double checked the battery voltages to be sure it was all up to snuff. I think the device is at the end of its life as best as I can tell. Hence the hunt for a replacement NE I have tye cut out for the display. If I can't find a working replacement, I'll look at your solution which with the Bluetooth makes it a lot easier to monitor.  Thanks for the info. 

[jacwjames]

FWIW, I mounted the display next to the solar & inverter displays, it was a chore getting communication wire all the way from my rear passenger side electrical bay where I mounted the shunt to the front overhead cabinet. 

But with the bluetooth function you can mount the display anywhere, you could even mount it the outside compartment and check voltages using your phone.  

There are not many solar controllers that have two outputs (house & chassis). 

[Ivan K]

Malcolm, I had the same factory configuration. If you can sacrifice one or both of the inaccurate gauges, you would have a great place for shunt monitor(s). I just reused wires that were originally used for tank monitoring when replaced by Seelevel. Took some effort and rewiring but it is all in one place now. The old RV30 is now only charging chassis batteries. 

[Malcolm]

Jim and Ivan-

Thanks for both of your replies and solutions. Believe it or not, the monitor started working again.  It must've realized I was talking about replacement. Lol.  Problem gone for now.

One other solution that I just tried before the controller started working again was using a cigarette lighter battery monitor which reads the battery voltage right from the lighter socket.  Cheap solution... Under 10 bucks from Amazon...malcolm

[cbr046]

@Malcolm  Speaking of cigarette lighters . . . . I ordered these because who uses a cigarette lighter anymore? 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B098KD2G8F/  

They have 2 USB power outlets, a VOLTMETER and fit into a cigarette lighter / accessory socket hole.  One went up front while the other went in the bedroom (I had to drill a hole and tap off the reading lamp for power)

I still have 2 cigarette lighter / accessory sockets up front (Garmin full time in a socket by dash return air vent, the other is on passenger side of dash)

- bob

Edited May 25 by cbr046

[JerryC]

On 5/21/2024 at 4:22 PM, Malcolm said:

Hi Jim. Thanks for the quick reply.  The issue is I have lost the display and the ability to check the chassis and house battery voltages.   The charge light goes on, but that's it.  The display otherwise is blank.  I am attaching a picture.  Thoughts?

Hi Malcolm or anyone,
 

I have this same display unit on my ‘02 Sig and cannot find anywhere the manufacturer. My challenge is a bit different… tank sensors fell off tanks and are shot. Trying to find compatible adhesive sensors that will work with the existing display. Have searched the forum and can find only people that have replaced display with SeeLevel. Does anyone know the manufacturer of that display panel or compatible tank sensors?

 

FWIW, I have replaced old solar panels with three new ones and have them going into old Heliotrope charge controller. Seems to be working fine.

[Malcolm]

Hi Jim-

The solar controller (RV-30D) is made by Heliotrope. Not sure if they are still in business or not.  The other panel RG7-GS is made by Trace.  Fortunately, our tank level monitors are still working but you bring up a good point that I should probably check to be sure they're still attached securely.  Hope that helps.

 

Bob- I was going to thank you for your reply, but I couldn't figure out how to do so to your specific message.  The voltmeter that you linked is almost identical to what I purchased.  I bought a different one because it had both USB and USB-C outs.  Price was similar.

[JerryC]

17 minutes ago, Malcolm said:

Hi Jim-

The solar controller (RV-30D) is made by Heliotrope. Not sure if they are still in business or not.  The other panel RG7-GS is made by Trace.  Fortunately, our tank level monitors are still working but you bring up a good point that I should probably check to be sure they're still attached securely.  Hope that helps.

 

Bob- I was going to thank you for your reply, but I couldn't figure out how to do so to your specific message.  The voltmeter that you linked is almost identical to what I purchased.  I bought a different one because it had both USB and USB-C outs.  Price was similar.

Thanks Malcom!

[Rocketman3]

Here are two options to monitor both house and chassis batteries. Using Victron equipment.

1. Like Jacwjames stated above install a Victron Smartshunt or BMV712. The shunt will monitor the house battery and you have a second option. That option can monitor one of three items- either a starter(chassis battery) or the temperature of the house battery or the mid-point of the house battery - if you have 6v batteries in series.  I am using that port to monitor the battery temperature.

2. If you also want to easily monitor the house battery. Here is what I did - on my 2000 Dynasty. I added a small 100w solar panel near the rear and a Victron SmartSolar 75/15 mppt controller in the rear run bay. I ran the 12ga solar wires through the rear air intake, dangled in the rear cap, (it has about 6” of space for the air intake- the whole width of the rig), drilled a small hole to let the wires exit in the engine area - and then to the rear run bay.  I tied the battery wires to the big wires there. I took out the old battery charger (lamprey?) that took a power from the house bank to charge the chassis.

The Victron mppt solar charger, will let you see the battery voltage. Plus it tracks the daily high and low voltages, and how much power (watts) it adds to the battery. I find it add just a little every day - about 70 W/hrs. So even a 50w solar panel will be plenty. I had a 100w Renogy standard panel on it, Then a few days ago, I changed my solar up again and got a flat BourgeRV fiberglass 100w panel (that I can walk on) for the chassis and moved the other panel to my house array.

Here is a photo of the history screen showing the daily charging to the engine battery.

not much power being added - but without it it would drain the battery over time. (FYI - I have an AGM Starter engine battery).