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Fix for door arm after 16 years.


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I’ve had to bend up the portion that sticks out 3 times in 16 years on the 04 Dynasty that’s still in the family. Recently that didn’t work well... pivot is very loose. I know others have replaced the pivot and/or added a bigger dimple or even replaced with a gas strut. These solutions seem overkill but I decided to remove it and see what was needed.
 

Could not remove it easily as the door mount is pop-riveted to the top of the door, So, I got two heavy hammers and tightened the pivot. Took longer to find two hammers of my liking than the 10-12 times of hitting it to get it tight again. Now it’s probably only good for another 14 years. 

 

I’ve found a pipe wrench works the best for bending the end that sticks out... had to bend it back down to get the door to shut.

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Edited by Ivylog
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10 minutes adjusting over 14 years and now 20 minutes fixing...$260/ hour by my math and I doubt you replaced in less than 30 minutes. Different strokes for different folks.

My point is “what do you have to loose” beating on it???

Edited by Ivylog
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27 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

10 minutes adjusting over 14 years and now 20 minutes fixing...$260/ hour by my math and I doubt you replaced in less than 30 minutes. Different strokes for different folks.

My point is “what do you have to loose” beating on it???

Dick, I totally agree. With most things, we fix them ourselves. I've beat on mine more times than I'd like to admit. Even removed the arm in the past and beat on it in a vise. Problem is, that "fix" won't last more than a year at the outside. Then it has to be beat on again. Also, the arm is never as tight and useful as it was when it was new. I got tired of having the door 'just ok' so I finally replaced it. It made a world of difference and my wife is pleased....so it's all good.....Dennis

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Dennis, unlike you, we are only half timers so not as much use as FTimers gives it. Will be interesting to see how long it lasts although it’s now our daughter’s so even less use. I had to adjust the one on our 08 Navigator when we got it 2 years ago. ..still holds the right amount. Time will tell.

Hope you’re doing well in these interesting times. We just got back from a month out West.

Edited by Ivylog
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On 8/18/2020 at 2:40 PM, Ivylog said:

Dennis, unlike you, we are only half timers so not as much use as FTimers gives it. Will be interesting to see how long it lasts although it’s now our daughter’s so even less use. I had to adjust the one on our 08 Navigator when we got it 2 years ago. ..still holds the right amount. Time will tell.

Hope you’re doing well in these interesting times. We just got back from a month out West.

This was a frequent topic on Yahoo.  Here is what the consensus was.

Adjusting the arm or pushing it up and down to get more tension (and also keep from hitting the frame) is actually the worst thing to do.  When you push it up (for example), the riveted joint has more tension....so it seems "stiffer".  BUT, the rivet wears.

We had a member that had bought a box of "Tinner's Rivets.  They were a harder rivet than the soft OEM rivet.  He drilled the rivet out.  Put in the new Rivet and then instead of beating it with a hammer on an anvil, he had a hydraulic press and maybe a small forming tool.  Then he, properly, upset the end.  In the old days, that was called "Bratting" or beating down the edges.  His fixes lasted and very few ever had any problems.  He is retired....so no JOY, but that was the best solution.

Next up.....read this.

Hello. Randall Bergen, 249 Cherry Blossom Trail, Dandridge, TN. 37725 - repairs scissor arms - $40. This was a few years ago, so I'd call or email him to check if he is still repairing them. 865-323-1277 rjb4jcpa@gmail.com
 

I could NOT get my door hinge or bracket to our retired member before he closed shop.  I contacted Randall.  He uses an "OEM" automotive part that is harder and is an exact fit.  He does use the Blacksmith method and brats or beats or peens over the rivet.  Mine was fixed about 20 K miles ago and probably has been opened and closed several thousand times.  I camp with GK and we have a constant flow.  The tension is still there.

OK....NOTES or hints.  First....the Bracket needs to be STRAGHTENED.  Randall will probably do that.  BUT, if you bend it back to where it is CENTERED...as it was originally, that helps.

Second...  Use SS 3/16 Pop Rivets for the mounting.  They are a PITA to get in.  I used a 15" Tool....it is a two handled one.  You need a LOT of clamping force.  The hand held (single pliers tools) will NOT work.  You will tear up the jaws.  The tool is great to have and is less than $25.  You can buy a cheap pneumatic one. ....but they don;t last.  The Door Slot will work find with the SS ones.  SOME folks have installed threaded bushings (similar to a threaded insert put in by a Pop Rivet type tool).  You can put in screws.

However, mine is working fine after several years and the SS rivets don't back out.

Hope this helps....

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