Replace Penguin Heat Pump: what's involved?

[wamcneil]

Hi All,

So now that the Penguin II heat pumps are in short supply, I need one...

I'm about to place an order (and wait...), but this is my first time lifting up an RV AC unit, so I could use some guidance. The installation manual looks like it only covers use with a ceiling-mounted distribution box, but I've got ducts in the ceiling. And I'm not sure what to expect once I pull up the old unit.

I'm replacing only the forward unit ( one single rooftop unit controlled by one single CCC), so I'm also replacing the 5-button CCC with a 10-buttton CCC2.

Besides the rooftop unit (651816HXX1C0-01) and CCC (3314082.011), what else will I need?

For example, I probably need a new drain kit to route the condensate to my drain tube (3107688.016)? I've found the drain kit for sale on various websites, but I oddly can't find this kit on the Dometic website...

Anything else required to seal the new AC up against the built-in ductwork?

Thanks,

Walter

Edited August 21, 2020 by wamcneil

[Guest Ray Davis]

Walter ,   I just replaced one in the bedroom .    Bought it here  http://www.adventurerv.net/   I bought it there because they had one ,  they may have more , I didn't ask .

The regular freight was a little slow but it got here ok .    I had some 14 ft 2x6s that I used to make a slide which I placed one end  on a picnic table the other end on

the coach .    I used a rope , got on the roof and pulled it up box and all  , unpacked it up there  and sent the old one down in the box .

One thing I found  was the holes on the A/C didn't quite or exactly match up with the holes in the coach  so you could easily cross thread the bolts .

I think the mounting holes on my coach are just a little off so yours will most likely be correct .

The threaded holes in the A/C are 1/4 " standard thread so I cut 4 all threads approx 6 in long .   I  preinstalled those into the A/C  and  had someone

carefully guide them from the inside as I lowered it into place then I used nuts  inside to secure .

If  your duct is ok now you shouldn't need anything for it but foil tape might be a good idea to have on hand  .

This is the drain kit you will need   https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-3107688016-Auxiliary-Drain-Pan-Kit-New/124302386404?epid=1023679643&hash=item1cf0ffe4e4:g:yP0AAOSwUDhfNG-2

 Ray Davis

 

[Tom Cherry]

DO some reading first.  If you have the 5 button T'stat, then you can not install the new 12 (actually 10) TStat.  It will NOT WORK.....we have a LOT of threads here on that.

The new units are "smart".  They can be DUMBED DOWN.  You have to order the 12 - 5 Button Dometic Control Board (about $125 -$150) on Amazzon.  You have to pull out the existing OEM control board on the NEW unit.  Take pictures of all wires and such.  THEN, you (instructions are in the kit) install a NEW control board.  That involves repositioning or moving some wires and also cutting and butt splicing at least one wire.  You have to relocate the Ambient Temp Sensor also.

Once you have done that, you have DUMBED DOWN the unit  It will NOW work with the 5 Button T'Stat.

You have to do the RESET afterwards.....that is necessary ANY time you kill power and remove the the board or make changes.

Buy yourself nee INLINE PHONE CONNECTORS.  The old ones vibrate and you have continuity issues.  Once you lose the "connection", even though the AC is OFF, then you have issues.  90% of the "Don't Work" fixes is to either clean the old connectors (male and female) with a Q-tip and alcohol or clean the male ends and put in new connectors.

If you look at the Dometic site, you will find the "accessories" or perhaps "a transition" piece.  Good idea to replace the internal drain while you are in there.

you will need FOIL tape to patch and also seal the plenum.  Monaco did a poor job.

use this link.....read the ENTIRE post.   it is TWO pages long.   It answers MOST of your questions and confirms the gist above...

That should get you on board....

[Guest Ray Davis]

14 hours ago, wamcneil said:

I'm replacing only the forward unit (  single rooftop unit on the CCC), so I'm also replacing the 5-button CCC with a 10-buttton CCC2.

  Tom ,   If I read Walter's statement above correctly he has 1 A/C on his 5 button thermo presently and wants to replace both with  new units that match each other .

   I don't think he will need to change any boards .  However if other A/Cs are on this thermo then yes he will need to make changes for them to all communicate .

   What I failed to mention was that he should look at / take a picture of the dip switches on his old unit  , set the new unit to match then reset the thermo .

   Ray

[wamcneil]

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

DO some reading first.  If you have the 5 button T'stat, then you can not install the new 12 (actually 10) TStat.  It will NOT WORK.....we have a LOT of threads here on that.

Ok, now I'm really confused. Maybe I just don't read that good.

I've actually done a lot of reading on here, and I read the entire thread you linked. And as far as I can tell the new Penguin II is set up to work with the new CCC2. But you're saying that the new Penguin II will NOT work with the new CCC2 thermostat!?!?!??

Maybe I wasn't clear. I'm wanting to change out my front A/C where one unit is connected to one 5-button CCC. Is there something I'm missing?

Walter

14 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Walter ,   I just replaced one in the bedroom .    Bought it here  http://www.adventurerv.net/   I bought it there because they had one ,  they may have more , I didn't ask .

The regular freight was a little slow but it got here ok .    I had some 14 ft 2x6s that I used to make a slide which I placed one end  on a picnic table the other end on

the coach .    I used a rope , got on the roof and pulled it up box and all  , unpacked it up there  and sent the old one down in the box .

One thing I found  was the holes on the A/C didn't quite or exactly match up with the holes in the coach  so you could easily cross thread the bolts .

I think the mounting holes on my coach are just a little off so yours will most likely be correct .

The threaded holes in the A/C are 1/4 " standard thread so I cut 4 all threads approx 6 in long .   I  preinstalled those into the A/C  and  had someone

carefully guide them from the inside as I lowered it into place then I used nuts  inside to secure .

If  your duct is ok now you shouldn't need anything for it but foil tape might be a good idea to have on hand  .

This is the drain kit you will need   https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-3107688016-Auxiliary-Drain-Pan-Kit-New/124302386404?epid=1023679643&hash=item1cf0ffe4e4:g:yP0AAOSwUDhfNG-2

 Ray Davis

 

Thanks Ray.

I've asked adventurerv to check their stock.

Cheers,

Walter

[Guest Ray Davis]

Walter ,  Here is the question , does the thermostat for the front A/C control just that unit or does it control other A/C units too  ?

If it controls the front A/C  only it should be plug and play  no board changing needed ,  however if it controls other A/C s  as well  then  boards will need to be

changed so that they can all communicate .

Ray

[wamcneil]

2 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Walter ,  Here is the question , does the thermostat for the front A/C control just that unit or does it control other A/C units too  ?

If it controls the front A/C  only it should be plug and play  no board changing needed ,  however if it controls other A/C s  as well  then  boards will need to be

changed so that they can all communicate .

Ray

That's what I thought, but Tom's unequivocal statements to the contrary and his kind suggestion for me to go do some reading has me confused .

 My front CCC controls exactly one Penguin. I'm changing out the one CCC and the one A/C connected to it.

Thanks,

Walter

 

[Guest Ray Davis]

 Walter ,  That's what I thought but then I began to question myself .

So basically I believe you just have some manual labor ahead and the elect should be plug & play 

Be sure to set the little dip switches on the boards then reset the new thermostat you should then be on your way to cool  .  🥶

Ray

[Tom Cherry]

5 hours ago, wamcneil said:

That's what I thought, but Tom's unequivocal statements to the contrary and his kind suggestion for me to go do some reading has me confused .

 My front CCC controls exactly one Penguin. I'm changing out the one CCC and the one A/C connected to it.

Thanks,

Walter

 

OK...I will try to be less unequivocal.....  Here is what I understand and Chris confirmed it with his tech.

One NEW Penguin II and the NEW 12 Button (10 if you prefer) on ONCE single phone line.  NO PROBLEM.  That will work.  Obviously....and I don't mean that in a smart @$$ way.

One NEW Penguin II and an OLD Penguin on the NEW 12 Button.  It ain't gonna work.  You can NOT "Smarten UP" or upgrade the OLD Penguin.

One NEW Penguin II....WITH the retrofit or perhaps the removal of the SMART controller and the installation of the 12-5 Kit and an OLD Penguin on a single 5 Button T'Stat.....will work.

That is the simple statement.  NOW....if you read Chris' comments.....the Distributor and Dometic lead them down a rabbit hole....and then came back with the SAME scenario as above.

Dometic (as of Chri's post) has NOT shipped the NEW Penguin II's with a Dumb (works with a 5 button T'Stat) control board.  THAT is a field mod and they have a detailed instructions.

I re-read you post....but I wanted to state it like Domeitc tells you on Tech Support and Chris' tech confirmed.

Hope this helps.

 

[amphi_sc]

Removed information about an aftermarket  small profile software updatable WIFI/Bluetooth enabled thermostat that is compatible with the new Penguin II heat pump units per request.  I'll just keep the info to myself for when I replace my units.

Edited August 21, 2020 by amphi_sc
Walter thinks thermostat issues with the new units are off topic

[wamcneil]

Just for the record, this thread is not about thermostat compatibility matrix options. 
I asked about what to expect when I pull up the old unit and confirmation of specific part numbers needed to replace my solo unit.

Moderators, if you want to delete all the posts about thermostat compatibility (especially the wrong and confusing one...), it's fine with me.

Cheers

Walter

Edited August 21, 2020 by wamcneil

[wamcneil]

So, back on the topic of what to expect when I pull the unit off the roof...

I can't find any meaningful pictures or youtube videos of replacing a ducted unit. After shining a light up into the overhead cavity, it looks like there's a short vertical sheetmetal transition duct screwed to the underside of the A/C base pan.

The short transition duct appears to be bearing down on the top of the longitudinal duct in the ceiling (somewhat deforming the duct and pushing it down).

Is this transition duct just pressing against the upper surface of the ceiling duct, or is there some mechanical connection between the two? I can see one sheetmetal screw on the transition duct flange, but I don't think I'll have enough access to reach these screw with the A/C unit in place.

I can see myself re-engineering this connection so it doesn't deform the ceiling duct...

Thanks

Walter 

[Tom Cherry]

3 hours ago, wamcneil said:

So, back on the topic of what to expect when I pull the unit off the roof...

I can't find any meaningful pictures or youtube videos of replacing a ducted unit. After shining a light up into the overhead cavity, it looks like there's a short vertical sheetmetal transition duct screwed to the underside of the A/C base pan.

The short transition duct appears to be bearing down on the top of the longitudinal duct in the ceiling (somewhat deforming the duct and pushing it down).

Is this transition duct just pressing against the upper surface of the ceiling duct, or is there some mechanical connection between the two? I can see one sheetmetal screw on the transition duct flange, but I don't think I'll have enough access to reach these screw with the A/C unit in place.

I can see myself re-engineering this connection so it doesn't deform the ceiling duct...

Thanks

Walter 

Walter,

Two things....and a cleanup might happen when one of us gets more time to understand....I thought I DID and there are still questions that pop up or maybe "challenges".

I THOUGHT that I had posted this before.  

As to the DUCT issue.  GO to THIS thread.... and look at HerbStark's post about mid way down.  

NOT to sound like an expert, but from what I read and from what I found on the Dometic Site and what Chris Throgmartin has posted....the Penguin to Penguin 11 SWAP is just that....a Plug and Play.  When you go to the Blizzard NXT, that is what Herb outlined.

The BEST advice.....get your OLD Penguin Part Number (off the Build Sheet).  Then call Dometic.  Be prepared for a phone wait...but you will eventually get routed to Retail or Consumer Tech Support.  They were informative and helpful.  IF you have you OLD PN then they can instantly LOOK UP what you have and then tell you what unit they recommend (assuming you are staying with the same style (AC only or AC with HP).  They will also go through the "color codes".  There WAS (and this is memory) a couple of "accessories".  ONE was a Duct Adapter....but i don't recall if that was for a Conversion from a Penguin to a Blizzard or if it was something about whether you needed an adapter for some design change.  

The OTHER thing, IIRC, the NEW unit (Ducted) MIGHT not come with a NEW lower filter bezel.  SO, if you want a new one (not yellowed or whatever), then you MIGHT need to order that.  Again...the Dometic Folks should help you out.  OR call Chris and see if he can help you or supply what you need.....

[wamcneil]

Thanks. I might call Dometic and see what they recommend

I saw HerbStark's post and it tells me a little about what to expect, but he's talking specifically about replacing a Penguin with a Blizzard. I'm not doing that.

I'm replacing a Penguin Heat Pump with a Penguin II Heat Pump.

Again, for the record, I do not need any information about the 12-button to 5-button conversion board. I have already ordered a new 15,000 btu Penguin II Heat Pump and new CCC2 to match, so unless there's something I'm missing, I do not need any kind of conversion board.

My MH has a long duct in the ceiling, and I really can't see much from the bottom. So my main concern is what I'm going to find once I lift the old unit off and how the A/C interfaces with the ceiling duct.

Cheers

Walter

[Tom Cherry]

39 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

Thanks. I might call Dometic and see what they recommend

I saw HerbStark's post and it tells me a little about what to expect, but he's talking specifically about replacing a Penguin with a Blizzard. I'm not doing that.

I'm replacing a Penguin Heat Pump with a Penguin II Heat Pump.

Again, for the record, I do not need any information about the 12-button to 5-button conversion board. I have already ordered a new 15,000 btu Penguin II Heat Pump and new CCC2 to match, so unless there's something I'm missing, I do not need any kind of conversion board.

My MH has a long duct in the ceiling, and I really can't see much from the bottom. So my main concern is what I'm going to find once I lift the old unit off and how the A/C interfaces with the ceiling duct.

Cheers

Walter

Walter....since Monaco never made one MH like the other.  MOST (and that is not an exact statement of fact....but a generality)  of the folks with 2 or 3 HVAC's have a SINGLE 5 button T'Stat and typically one or maybe two remote sensors (Like the Beaver Patriot for the front unit).

SO....If I understand your original (which was revised) post.... you must have MULTIPLE T'Stat's and the FRONT(?) unit is a single HVAC Penquin with HP and the 5 button HVAC.  Therefore, you are NOT muliplexing or have a data loop throughout the entire unit.  

Yep....you are cool....or at least I believe so.  NO ONE has reported any type of major "roof top" gyrations like Herb did....and he explained why.

I would assume that all you need it the NEW 12 Button T'stat and a new Penguin II (same rating with HP).  Once you have that....you should be good to go and any reputable tech or any experienced or meticulous individual(s) with reasonable skills should be able to swap it out and it WILL be Plug and Play.  Herb's comment about using a belt sander to abrade the FG was ingenious.  I like a little Acetone (which I understand HOW to use and not abuse).  Folks have used WD-40 to soften the adhesive residue and you have to wash off the WD-40 thoroughly and then do a quick alcohol wipe prep.  Making sure that everything inside the unit is taped and sealed is a must.  ONE comment.....some folks got "factory" goofs from Monaco.  There was a Dometic Assembly issue.  Some workers did not install the foam gaskets and diverters properly in the covers or on the unit and there was an air bypass.  I would look at the illustrations in the manual and VERIFY that the various gaskets and such were "as pictured".  This was RARE....but it happened to several folks.  After they did a quick mod and restored the foam to the original design, their units were way more efficient.

I still throw out the two caveats (other than the qualifications above).  If the NEW Penguin II does NOT come with the Inline Connectors.....be a big spender and purchase some.  I personally carry them (and I had a very frustrating experience earlier this summer) and replace them.  I would also advise cleaning the male phone cable ends with Alcohol and a Q-tip. If you lose you OTHER two units (which I am going to PRESUME...unless you have THREE TStat), then odds are....it will be the inline connectors or the connections therein.  SO, having a $5 pack as a backup is a no brainer.

Second....if you want a pure and clean NEW lower Grill, THAT may not be included.  You will have to determine that from the Instruction manual.  All I know about that is Dometic listed it as a "Required" Accessory on one of their pages.  Better to know that ahead of time than once it it ready and you don't like the looks of the old one.

Good Luck....

[wamcneil]

Thanks Tom.

There's adhesive between the foam and the roof??? The installation manual doesn't talk about any adhesive there.

Right. I have TWO thermostats. The front controls the front A/C only. And the rear thermostat in the bedroom controls the mid and rear A/Cs. The current project is to replace front unit only and its dedicated CCC.

The installation manual shows an included "Base Pan Duct Adapter", which looks similar to what I can see attached to the old unit's base pan. So I just need to get a mirror up in there and figure out how that adapter is connected to the ceiling duct.

The installation manual makes it sound like phone connectors are included, but I'll get new ones if they are not.

I think I'm good on top-side parts. And the coach has wood frame return grills, so no Air Distribution Box required.

Thanks again,

Walter

 

 

[Tom Cherry]

39 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

Thanks Tom.

There's adhesive between the foam and the roof??? The installation manual doesn't talk about any adhesive there.

Right. I have TWO thermostats. The front controls the front A/C only. And the rear thermostat in the bedroom controls the mid and rear A/Cs. The current project is to replace front unit only and its dedicated CCC.

The installation manual shows an included "Base Pan Duct Adapter", which looks similar to what I can see attached to the old unit's base pan. So I just need to get a mirror up in there and figure out how that adapter is connected to the ceiling duct.

The installation manual makes it sound like phone connectors are included, but I'll get new ones if they are not.

I think I'm good on top-side parts. And the coach has wood frame return grills, so no Air Distribution Box required.

Thanks again,

Walter

 

 

I may have misinterpreted Herb's comment.....whatever.... he did have SOME residue that he had to abrade and remove.  For SOME reason, I thought there was an adhesive....but maybe you adhere the gasket to the bottom of the "pan" or whatever and then it just sits flush and after all the years, some of the high density foam broke down and left a residue.  Whatever, it sounds like you are good to go and well prepared.....

Unless you see something that looks "strange", I think MOST folks just disconnect wiring and terminals and stuff and then loosen and remove the hold down or mounting bolts and then just "Pull it UP and OFF".  Herb will probably give you more info if you PM him.

All I can say.....with my YEARS of HVAC experience....  is that you DO need a GOOD Inch Pound Torque Wrench to tighten down the gasket.  Having said that, Dometic MAY have some bushings in place now.  But generally, the instructions specify a torque value which few people ever measure.  

NOW....after you do that PROPERLY, the Senior Tech/Instructor at Lazy Days said.....  LEAVE IT ALONE.  He does not follow the "advice" to annually retighten and retorque.  He says that they get more AC's that are almost flat on the roof.....and the gasket is toast and they leak.  His advice....do it RIGHT the first time....

MAYBE, after a year or so....then go in and "snug" it down.  I know others have retorqued their without any issues.  I started to crank down on mine and realized that I was gonna really compress the gasket.  It has never leaked and that was after sitting through the LD seminar.  So, I have not been "diligent" in that.  Probably SHOULD have checked it....but so far....no issues....

Thanks for the feedback and the explanation.  

[wamcneil]

Thanks again. 
I got up in there with a flashlight and mirror and now can see how the duct adapter on pan slips down into the coach duct. 
And I’ve got a good in-lb torque wrench, so I think I’ll be ready when it gets here Monday!

cheers

Walter

[Guest Ray Davis]

 Good morning Walter ,    The adhesive side goes on the A/C .    Don't know if I can explain how the gaskets and drain fit together but it will be simple

 and easy to grasp when you flip the old A/C up side down .    First with a drain system you use 2 gaskets .  On the 1st gasket , the thick one ,  after

 sticking it on you will cut a place for the drain tubes to pass from outside to inside .  The 2nd gasket is then attached to the 1st gasket doubling up the gaskets .

 Caulk / sealer is used where the hoses passes through the cuts you make in the gasket .

 All of this will need to be done as you assemble the drain pans , tubes and gaskets to the bottom of the new A/C 

 BTW you will need to purchase a gasket in addition to the thicker gasket that comes with the drain kit .  My gaskets had adhesive on them  ( peel  & stick )

 so they just stick on .

 

 

 

[wamcneil]

11 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

  BTW you will need to purchase a gasket in addition to the thicker gasket that comes with the drain kit .  My gaskets had adhesive on them  ( peel  & stick )

 so they just stick on .

 

 

 

Thanks Ray.

What do you mean about an additional gasket besides what comes in the drain kit? 

The drain kit instructions made it sound like the kit included all the additional foam gaskets.

I pulled the old unit up this afternoon. Yeesh! It was stuck down good. Maybe I'll have some better insight when I see the new gaskets. Perhaps the gaskets have some kind of slow-cure adhesive that eventually bonds with the surface?

Walter

Here's what the duct interface looks like in case anybody is interested. There's a "Base Pan Duct Adapter" screwed to the bottom of the A/C pan, and this stub adapter slides down into the mating stub coming off the top of the coach ceiling duct. Once the foam seal against the roof is cut, the A/C just lifts up and the duct adapter slips out.

There doesn't appear to be any caulk type sealant on between the foam and the roof, but oh-boy it's stuck good. It took a lot of effort, swearing, prying and cutting at the gasket with a sharp scraper to finally part the foam.

I'm do something to pull the duct back up in position and hold it there so the duct isn't smashed down flat.

Cheers,

Walter

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, wamcneil said:

Thanks Ray.

What do you mean about an additional gasket besides what comes in the drain kit? 

The drain kit instructions made it sound like the kit included all the additional foam gaskets.

I pulled the old unit up this afternoon. Yeesh! It was stuck down good. Maybe I'll have some better insight when I see the new gaskets. Perhaps the gaskets have some kind of slow-cure adhesive that eventually bonds with the surface?

Walter

Here's what the duct interface looks like in case anybody is interested. There's a "Base Pan Duct Adapter" screwed to the bottom of the A/C pan, and this stub adapter slides down into the mating stub coming off the top of the coach ceiling duct. Once the foam seal against the roof is cut, the A/C just lifts up and the duct adapter slips out.

There doesn't appear to be any caulk type sealant on between the foam and the roof, but oh-boy it's stuck good. It took a lot of effort, swearing, prying and cutting at the gasket with a sharp scraper to finally part the foam.

I'm do something to pull the duct back up in position and hold it there so the duct isn't smashed down flat.

Cheers,

Walter

Walter.  You are making progress.  only two comments for you...

Make sure you use the highest quality silver foil HVAC tape and tape the feces out of every place and seal everything that you can get to.  I KNOW you know this....but that is key to getting an efficient and not leaky air flow.

As to the Gaskets.  My "bet" and you will find this out.  IF there is only adhesive or a peel off strip on ONCE side of the gasket....then what has happened is this.  ALL "plastic" contains a chemical called a "Plasticizer".  I am NOT a chemist....but think about it this way.  That is like the "solvent" in paint.  The solvent is supposed to not leach or "vent off", but it happens.  IF, over the years, the plasticizer or the solvent continues to "vent off", then it will act like glue and the foam starts to deteriorate and it is LIKE having an adhesive.  That is what Herb found out and sanded or abraded off.  I now doubt that WD-40 would loosen it.  Acetone MIGHT, but you have to be careful.....mechanically scrapping or sanding is probably the best.  Just don't go crazy.  IF you are comfortable using Acetone and it loosens it...then go cautiously.  Acetone will attack the Gel Coat on the roof.  SO, pouring it on or taking steel wool and abrading the roof with Acetone is a formula for disaster.

Again you probably know that....I just wanted to comment that there is not any type of "slow release" adhesive.  I had a 1977 Toyota Celica and the black dash left a film (think the coating if a bunch of heavy smokers were trapped inside for a long time).  It was "greasy and smeared" and was always on the inside of the windshield.  I cleaned the inside of the windshield religiously from 1977 until I sold it in 1992.  That was about every 3 months or 45 times....maybe more.  That was the BLACK dash continuing to "gas off" or vent the Plasticizer(s)....

I used to do be in charge of a plastic molding department, so that is the best explanation I can offer.  We have graduate and advanced degreed chemists....they will have a FIELD day with my dumb @$$ description....LOL...

[saflyer]

On 8/21/2020 at 6:16 PM, Tom Cherry said:

 

NOW....after you do that PROPERLY, the Senior Tech/Instructor at Lazy Days said.....  LEAVE IT ALONE.  He does not follow the "advice" to annually retighten and retorque.  He says that they get more AC's that are almost flat on the roof.....and the gasket is toast and they leak.  His advice....do it RIGHT the first time....

MAYBE, after a year or so....then go in and "snug" it down.  I know others have retorqued their without any issues.  I started to crank down on mine and realized that I was gonna really compress the gasket.  It has never leaked and that was after sitting through the LD seminar.  So, I have not been "diligent" in that.  Probably SHOULD have checked it....but so far....no issues....

Thanks for the feedback and the explanation.  

Not annually retightening the hold down bolts might help with an issue I have with my Wacko silencer.  The inner plate Wacko supplies covers the bolts so you have to remove it to do that job.  I plan to suggest Wacko put holes in that panel where bolts are but your advice might make that unnecessary.

[wamcneil]

Thanks guys. I’ve been thinking about that. I suspect that periodic retightening has has pulled the unit down and caused my duct compression. 
I figure that once the bolts are finger tight, then evenly tensioned till at torque spec, the gasket will eventually adhere and at that point the fasters aren’t really doing anything. 
So I plan to leave it and hope my OCD doesn’t force me to tighten the bolts in the future.

cheers

Walter

[Tom Cherry]

46 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

Thanks guys. I’ve been thinking about that. I suspect that periodic retightening has has pulled the unit down and caused my duct compression. 
I figure that once the bolts are finger tight, then evenly tensioned till at torque spec, the gasket will eventually adhere and at that point the fasters aren’t really doing anything. 
So I plan to leave it and hope my OCD doesn’t force me to tighten the bolts in the future.

cheers

Walter

words right out of the Senior Tech or the "Instructor" at the LD Seminar on HVAC Maintenance, Tips and Tricks in July, 2010....

[Guest Ray Davis]

Walter ,  Your roof opening is not quite the same as mine at least the duct is different .  If the duct does not compress farther I don't see that as

causing a perceptible restriction .  Guess you'll have to figure that part out .

Never the less we are using the same Penguin A/C and drain set up so more than likely the gasket install will be the same .

What I meant by additional gasket is my drain kit came with only one thicker gasket but my old A/C used two .

This kit plus another gasket without the drain pans etc .   Perhaps the drain tubes can be made to work with one gasket but two gaskets were

shown in my A/C installation instructions .

Have you flipped the old unit over to see how yours is put together ?

BTW my instructions mention torque but it also say compress the gasket 1/2 inch .  Guess they realize most don't have an in lb torque wrench .