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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Discussions
Just Jim
I thought it was just me... I've loved the performance of my coach. It just seems effortless running down the road. Of course I had half the horsepower but a third less length in my old coach. I drove several Dynasty and Imperial coaches with the 400 horsepower engine before buying the Executive. They seemed adequate, but not sure I could go back now.
Dr4Film
My personal opinion is NOT to install another reel as they are notorious for problems. I would hard-wire it to your transfer case or to a junction box depending on exactly what you currently have and be done with it. Or wire in a 50 amp Male end on your coach, then wire a 50 amp Female end on the end of your power cord. That would allow you to coil it up and place it into a storage container then into one of your storage bays,
My previous Windsor and my current Dynasty both came with Glendinning Cablemaster's model RLC which are FAR better than any reel could ever think to be.
To install coolant shut off valves or not?
Dr4Film
I think installing shut-offs is a no-brainer. You never know when you may need them.
One of the best places to install shut-offs is on the fuel IN and OUT for the Aqua-Hot Diesel Burner. It sure beats using clamp-offs to stop the flow of fuel while servicing the Aqua-Hot.
Dr4Film
If you can't resolve the issue, take it to Talin RV in Brooksville Florida. @throgmartin will make your slide work better than when it left the factory in 2006.
cbr046
8 hours ago, Mike H said:When the transmission gets shifted into neutral the steering wheel is unlocked.
I was asking for our 21 4-Runner. It's a manual 4WD that I can disconnect the wheels from the transmission through the transfer case but the steering remains locked. I'd be willing to disable the steering lock . . . if I could find it.
- bob
Dr4Film
I use this to test all of the AC cabling to make sure there is proper communication.
Super Wall Slide goes out crooked - 2006 Knight
johncvandoren@gmail.com
40 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:If you can't resolve the issue, take it to Talin RV in Brooksville Florida. @throgmartin will make your slide work better than when it left the factory in 2006.
Well, Florida is one of two state stickers missing on my cross-country map! If I can get there from California, I’ll sure try! Thanks!
Dr4Film
Here is my latest trip results. 2006 Monaco Dynasty 42 foot Countess III - 49,000 lbs combined towing a 2006 Saturn Vue with a ISL-400-2 Chipped to 425 HP. Our trip was 1495 miles from Florida to New Hampshire. We averaged 8 mpg driving 55 mph normally which keeps the Allison in 6th gear at about 1450 rpm's. Last year with the same setup but a slightly different trip path with fewer miles gave me 8.4 mpg.
My previous Windsor which was more than 10K lighter towing the same car over a similar trip path (fewer miles) gave me 9 mpg with its ISC-350. However, I would drive at 62 mph as that's where the Allison would stay in 6th gear although I can't remember what the rpm's were back then for the ISC-350.
jacwjames
From the picture it looks like there may be a part number on it but I can't read it. Try doing a search for that PN.
Or take the cap off and go to a truck shop, they may have them or can order.
Rikadoo
WOW! First things first hats off to you Bob, i have torn into removing units like that an there not for the faint of heart. Next i would like to know what color was the fluid on the ground that you saw? Was it the same as your engine coolant? Most radiator shops after pressurizing them dunk them in a tank of water as a crack in the copper tubing is really difficult to find, now that said perhaps it might be a benifit to see if you still have a radiator shop that you can have test the core. From personel experiance there mostly previlant in small towns anymore mostly due to local epa crackdown.
dennis.mcdonaugh
The HWH system is easy to work on. There are three cylinders, a sync cylinder and two rams. Going in or out crooked is a symptom of air in one of the lines or cylinders. Since it’s a closed system it usually means you have a leak. If they put a significant amount of fluid into the system, you probably have a leak.
A small leak usually isn’t noticeable at first, but eventually enough fluid comes out it’ll drip onto something in the basement and become visible.
The rams usually leak into the roadside compartments. Open the slide and look into the boxed tubes that move in and out with the slide. You may see fluid there.
The sync cylinder is hard to find, but it’ll be in the top of the basement, mine was evenly split between the propane and fuel tank compartment, right next to the wall.
HWH has a lot of potential bro on line.
Thomas1655
On my 2006 the plastic gear inside stsriped out causing it not to pull the cord. On the FMCA site there was someone who was making a replacement gear. I got one and it has been working great ever since. But this was years ago.
Good luck.
Tom
Kimber
Emptied tanks this morning and turned flusher on. I could not hear it flushing, always have been able to before. Went inside to toilet and open the valve and could only hear a trickle of water. Worked fine a week ago.
Anyone have similar issue?
Thankyou
2004 Dynasty
brokenarrow1244
I had a problem with the Shoreline reel not retracting and found the reel had a gear(plastic type material) that had broken. I found there was a person that was making the parts to repair it. John Delmatoff 3440 Welsh Drive Norco CA 92860
I have an email address of jondel1234@yahoo.com
He charged 75.00 at t.he time. That was several years ago. My coach has the reel inside and area that was only accessible through the closet. Very difficult to get in there especially since I am not as flexible as I once was. But.. Got it done, it works wonderfully and I save a bunch of money.. AND Many THANKS to this wonderful forum.
Hope this can help you.
The parts he sent even had all the correct rivets and instructions!!
Patrick Roman
Always the biggest fear when removing exhaust manifold studs is snapping them off in the head once that happens you have a real problem getting them out. The old way was using a torch now they have a new invention called an induction stud removal kit that is a game changer works like magic. Check it out could save you a huge headache
Venturer
12 hours ago, Paul J A said:I
. Richard, that's great mileage. I suspect I would be close to that as well if I slowed to 55. I don't think it would have stayed in 6th gear unless in economy mode and then might downshift on slight inclines. The hardest part for me would be another day on the road with 2200 miles to travel. 🙂 I wonder where your extra weight comes from when I have a heavier engine and heavier Toad, but weigh 1000# less?
FWIW, My son's Newell weighs 60,000#, plus he tows a 15,000# enclosed trailer. He smiles when a strong tail wind that gets him up to 6 mpg, otherwise he's 5. He could probably do better but runs 70 most of the time.
vito.a
The sprayer has very small holes and gets plugged up. On our coach there is an extra basement door just aft of the regular doors on the passenger side that opens with some release levers underneath.
This gives you access to the sprayer. There are 3 screws holding it on. Make sure the black tank is empty, remove the sprayer and use a fine wire or drill bit to open up the holes. Use some silicone sealant and reinstall the sprayer.
Good luck!
Hancoman
Good Morning
Through my own stupidity I have lost my outside refrigerator vent cover. Anyone know where I might pick up a replacement. Thanks in advance
LakeBob
1 hour ago, Rikadoo said:WOW! First things first hats off to you Bob, i have torn into removing units like that an there not for the faint of heart. Next i would like to know what color was the fluid on the ground that you saw? Was it the same as your engine coolant? Most radiator shops after pressurizing them dunk them in a tank of water as a crack in the copper tubing is really difficult to find, now that said perhaps it might be a benifit to see if you still have a radiator shop that you can have test the core. From personel experiance there mostly previlant in small towns anymore mostly due to local epa crackdown.
Thanks, it was a fairly easy job on my rig. There's one screw on the upper left that is a problem, have to do my touch, will be fun getting that one back in.
Yes, a radiator shop might be able to determine if there's a leak, it may be very small and I cant hear it. I'll try some soapy water today. I'm hoping it is good as the first replacement I found was $525....ouch.
Ivan K
When I found a leak, I tried to torque the bolts to prescribed 35lbs and they easily turned a quarter of the turn. Of course that did not help so out they went without any problems. Trying to soak the threads was futile, pretty much non of the penetrant made it past the spacers unless the bolts were already backed off a little. And if the manifold needs to be backed out to replace one gasket, pretty good chance that the others get torn up doing it. It helps big time to temporarily replace a couple of bolts with studs so the manifold slides out and into its place easily. Not a bad job, just heavy with the turbo and deep in the hole, nothing like access on a truck.
96 EVO
No help to you now, but, I have fans attached to my covers, so in order to not have to disconnect their wires when I remove the covers, I attached a pair of 12" stainless fishing leaders to each cover.
If mine ever came off, they would be flapping around, but they would stay with the coach!
Ivan K
6 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:No help to you now, but, I have fans attached to my covers, so in order to not have to disconnect their wires when I remove the covers, I attached a pair of 12" stainless fishing leaders to each cover.
If mine ever came off, they would be flapping around, but they would stay with the coach!
That's a good idea, I have a fan there too and plenty of fishing stuff. Have a pic of the attachment?
Ivan K
Would this one work? From description: cut out dimensions are in the description 13 3/4” x 21 1/2” that is your inside dimensions...
Super Wall Slide goes out crooked - 2006 Knight
grizzly
If I have too much weight on slide that will happen to me. Also If there is any debris in your hydraulic fluid is possible other issue
Martinvz
Oh, yes ! If you can access the flusher and tank, then remove it, and make sure it is unclogged. While it is disconnected, check the water flow.
You have a vacuum breaker, usually under the bathroom sink depending on the model of the coach, that may be bad. Easy to remove and test or just replace.
Our flusher is blocked but getting to it means serious surgery, so we just have to deal with the toilet challenge in a different way.
Hancoman
I lost the cover on the way to the shop to have residential refer installed. The measurements we took were 22.75 X 15. So that one is close
timaz996
3 hours ago, vito.a said:The sprayer has very small holes and gets plugged up. On our coach there is an extra basement door just aft of the regular doors on the passenger side that opens with some release levers underneath.
This gives you access to the sprayer. There are 3 screws holding it on. Make sure the black tank is empty, remove the sprayer and use a fine wire or drill bit to open up the holes. Use some silicone sealant and reinstall the sprayer.
Good luck!
This is why I always use a cheap water filter on the faucet when I flush the tank.
johncvandoren@gmail.com
TY. 4 y/o Res fridge is on slide about 9-10’ from rear. Think it weighs no more than original 4-door Norcold 1210, maybe even less. Front-most item is queen sleeper couch, which will be replaced this year—will look for lighter model. Nothing heavy in front overhead cabinets.
96 EVO
Grease caps
hex_nut
That is a Stemco 340-5096 used on grease packed front hubs. Here is a Amazon listing.
Black tank flusher
Donflem
Can you pour some CLR in the flushing hose a few times and see if that helps.
Don
hex_nut
Since you have converted to a residential fridge, you will want to insulate and enclose the original vent opening. The best option is to remove the entire plastic housing and replace with an aluminum panel with an insulated segment to fit the opening. That is on my "to do" list, but has not been done yet.
Kimber
did what you said and SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!
it is now soaking in a bag of vinegar till morning, I did use a dental pick to clean out the holes
thankyou
bklaes
To keep my black tank clean, I flush it with they gray water using one of these valves Black tank flusher
96 EVO
35 minutes ago, Kimber said:did what you said and SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!
it is now soaking in a bag of vinegar till morning, I did use a dental pick to clean out the holes
thankyou
May want to avoid using that tool on your teeth now 🤣!!
Tom Cherry
John,
Pulled your manual and the sales brochure. There is now reference in the manual to a 25 ft Super or Full Wall slide. NOW….all that to say. Very difficult to troubleshoot something that perhaps was a special build or a show coach or an experimental model. THERE may be others that are aware or have experience…but , from all the posts over a long time….you might benefit from the basics.
UNFORTUNATELY…. In many cases, the reliability of the full wall slides is poor. Chris Throgmartin ( @throgmartin) was mentioned. His comments have been honest, but not complimentary of them. We have helped folks over the years….I remember issues on a Dynasty and a Camelot and maybe a few more….the Knight does NOT pop up.
I googled as well as searched our data posts. NADA on a Knight with a Full Wall slide. So….that is unfortunate.
From a generic standpoint, I DOUBT you have a HWH system….why…even in the upper food chain Dynasty (2007 to be precise), the one model with a Full Wall Slide and the conventional HWH system for the remainder….had a LIPPERT “simple” Hydraulic pack or system. It was sort of “buried” or located on the Driver’s side in a bay….which is odd or very unusual. It took a LONG time to get it working. We spent time on the phone with a Mobile tech and he finally sort of “lucked into” it….like, what is “this thing?” The THING was that it WAS an oddly placed Lippert hydraulic package and he finally, by using jumpers from his truck…got it retracted…so the member could drive. I located a Tech nearby, who was really trusted and knowledgeable….I use him. The owner took it in. He diagnosed it. A TRIPPED Circuit breaker.
NOW….that is NOT your issue…but I CAN tell you that I chased a similar problem on the SAME Lippert system….which controlled my two slides. Only difference, I think, in your system and mine. I have two valves….you have one.
BTW…I had three techs tell me MINE was FINE….but it was intermittent….and never “balky” when they tested and ran an amperage test….
HERE GOES….and this is real world….
First of all….FIND the unit. If it IS a Lippert, it will have a motor with a Solenoid above it. There will be a cable to the soleonid….and a cable from the solenoid to the Motor. The OTHER side or motor terminal will be a cable to ground.
There are a LOT of bad advice, novice YouTube Videos on how to fix or such….and one was absolutely wrong and would mess up the motor.
Here is one that shows, but not in the best detail, what I THINK yours looks like as it is what was used in the rare 2007 Dynasty full wall.
yours will be slightly different, but the motors are sill the same design. I tightened my motor studs after some use….the NEW ONE.
Check every connection on the large cables. But pay particular attention to the motor. Unscrew (power off of course at house and chassis) the nut holding the cable. There will be a smaller net under it. Tighten “snuggly”….but not twisting off, that nut. That nut holds the motor stud (s) tight. If the stud retaing nut(s) is loose, there is a HIGH resistance connection….and the motor is moving slower and the slide will be balky and erratic. My slide is NOT as long as yours….but it did the same thing.
Do this SIMPLE TEST first…Have some extend or move the slide. Put your VOM on the House Bank….I doubt the Chassis is powering….but can’t find a print. If you are on shore or genny running….the voltage will be 13.1 or so…..if all is well, the voltage during the slide’s movement should stay in the mid 12’s. But if the motor has a high resistance connection….then note how low it goes. NOW…go to the Lippert unit. Out your VOM on the motor teminals. Exercise the slide. Whatever the voltage was at the House….hopefully no more than a few tenths drop. Check the connections per the above and repeat.
IF the motor is drawing too much current….bingo….it kicks up the amperage and your motor gets hot. Mine had, from the factory,the wrong size circuit breaker and I eventually killed the system….I figured it out TOO LATE. New pump system. The entire unit was about 40% more than just the motor….a NO Brainer.
That is MY experience. Now….if you want to try a “trick”. Take a vehicle….and put the positive on the INCOMING cable of the solenoid. Ground out the negatvie to the frame. Now….let someone work the slide….did it run faster and smoother and not balky? If so…you have a bad connection up stream. Swap out the House Disconnect switch. Cheap. You have a great switch….but they break. Mine was eventually the issue. I’d carry a spare one anyway….so, putting in a new switch…Blue Seas….is good maintenance and might just be the problem…again….this is real world and I spent a LOT of time with Lippert, Monaco and others and finally, Frank. McElroy taught me the proper way to isolate a problem.
THATS GENERIC….but I would not spend another penny on it until I had less than 0.2 - 0.3 VDC drop in Motor Voltage….while running from the House bank…
PAST THAT….If you have good voltage and can have someone check the current draw at the motor….it should be less than 70 amps. Lippert says 65 Amp motor and to fuse or protect at 80 A. Mine had a 150A…
Tom Cherry
Great you can clean it. Calcium or hard water deposits are bad.
BUT….EXPERIENCE HERE. A hose that was out coiled up for a while over the winter had a MESS of bugs and eggs and larvae in it. BINGO….instant clog.
BUT, here is how I had plumbed mine and escaped having to pull out the backflush unit…as mine is way out of sight and reach. A full day job to get off a panel.
I use a short 3 ft hose extension….male on one end….female on the other. I have a 1/4 turn garden hose shutoff valve. I attached the hose to the flush fitting….and used a washing machine mesh washer. Then I put the quarter turn valve on the other end. But, belt and suspenders…also used a washing machine filter washer.
SO…I want to backflush. Bring the hose to the MH. Hook up to the 1/4 turn valve. Turn OFF valve. Walk and turn on hose at faucet.
NOW I can turn ON and OFF the backflush at the MH ….as needed.
I also ordered a FEMALE Garden Hose plastic plug with a “tab” on the end….there is a hole in the tab. I zip tied the plug so it is hanging. AFTER I backflush and remove the hose….I screw in the plug
I have the same plug on the fresh hose to keep critters out….
Steven 53
Okay just wired in my 2 bosh relays and inline 20 amp fuses one for each relays still have some tiding up to do. That's for another day mid 90 now been in sun most of the day except when in generator bay. Headlights work both hi/low took few days for my stuff to come in. Hopefully tomorrow take for a test run with lights on and see if any fuses blow.
jacwjames
7 hours ago, cbr046 said:I was asking for our 21 4-Runner. It's a manual 4WD that I can disconnect the wheels from the transmission through the transfer case but the steering remains locked. I'd be willing to disable the steering lock . . . if I could find it.
- bob
Bob,
Your post about pulling a Toyota intrigued me so I spent some time searching. From what I found Toyota does not recommend pulling any of their vehicles but plenty of post though of people pulling them as long as they are 4WD and have the transfer case that can be put in neutral.
As to the ability to remove the key on newer Toyota's, I did not find one post that explained how to do it. One poster went through several attempts but none panned out. The steering wheel lock is in the column and an electric solenoid with pin that locks the steering wheel. The software has a timed function that will lock the steering wheel after a period of time as an antitheft device. I did some searches to see if it could be defeated in the PCM but didn't find any.
Let me know if you find out if it can be done.
The Ford I am interested in may not happen, another buyer is looking at it this weekend. Wait and see I guess but after looking at the overall positive reviews and ease of pulling the F150 has moved up on my list of potential toads.
Bruce Hull
Going to sell my 2011 honda pilot. About 170000 miles great shape, timing and water pump done at 150,000. Blue ox base plate, air force one braking system ,, we are in sumter SC
Head light fuse keeps blowing
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, Steven 53 said:Okay just wired in my 2 bosh relays and inline 20 amp fuses one for each relays still have some tiding up to do. That's for another day mid 90 now been in sun most of the day except when in generator bay. Headlights work both hi/low took few days for my stuff to come in. Hopefully tomorrow take for a test run with lights on and see if any fuses blow.
Great. Now….if they blow or have issues….I’d pull the Positive (signal) wires from each relay. Or pop out relays. That will totally “disconnect” the leads from the HI/LO sowtch. Then drive and test and such. Still got an issue….it is UPSTREAM….of course….assuming the HI/LO switch is OK. Then disconnect the power from the HI/LO switch…..keep working your way backwards or upstream. If one of the inline fuses pops…issues in the Headlight housings or in the harness.
YES…working on MH’s provides one to make repairs in sometimes “exotic” locales….or in non hospitable climate conditions….
Paul J A
Try a penetrating agent of 50% ATF and 50% acetone. Best one I have ever used with excellent results.
Happycarz
Here is on guys fix for the copper wipers wearing of on the reel of his Shoreline / Southwire reel. Solution is on page 2 of the thread.
Super Wall Slide goes out crooked - 2006 Knight
Tom Cherry
EDIT and UPDATE. Was watching a video and the YouTuber rebuilt the motor. My windings were toast. However if you look at the screen shot, it is a GREAT show and tell. Notice the stud. It is a “drop in place and tighten down”. GREAT as long as you don’t have it in a MH that vibrates like a 4.5 Mag earthquake. The retaining nuts, on the outside, loosen. Poor contact on the inside….arcs and sparks and high resistance.
EVERY LIPPERT owner should do this PM every few years. Sometimes experience is a dear $chool….just passing on. The solenoid connections are fixed…just clean and tighten…
Gary 05 AMB DST
I thought that the only towable Honda Pilot was the 2003-2005 AWD?
Gary 05 AMB DST
Bruce Hull
I thought it was 2015! Or 16, it was 4 wheel drive but that was disabled, not to burn back bearing,, now front wheel drive only,, be towing it for 4 years now,, I do stop 250 miles or so to start it for 10 minutes, drive to neutral , then turn off key
hex_nut
The 2005 model year of the Pilot was the last year that was certified by Honda to be towable 4 down. The CRV was certified through the 2014 model year. I do not know what changes that Honda made to the Pilot after the 2005 year, but that was the last year they certified the Pilot to be towable. Honda changed the transmission in the CRV for the 2015 model year and the CVT transmission they used is definitely not towable.
Richard
96 EVO
I've had no issues with mine so far.
I don't reel any in, or, pull any out with power flowing.
Gary 05 AMB DST
Bruce, who told you that that was the way to tow it? The stopping every 250 miles is interesting. Sounds like the 2015 FWD Pilot had the same transmission as the CRV and the towing procedure was transferred to your Pilot. Replacing the transmission on my Pilot was $4500, but that was a common procedure for those 2003-2005 Pilots.
Gary 05 AMB DST
Tom Cherry
Comments on, I assume, the “Shoreline” reels, commonly used.
NO POWER. Most of those issues were traced back to “operator error”. Primarily folks that spent time, a lot of it, in one location. If you pull out the cord and leave it in that position for several months, possibly load dependent, the contacts on the “power circles” or where each contact rubs, will arc and eventually cause a high resistance. Folks have solved this by routinely powering in the cord and then pulling it back out in a random location. If there was a shorting or intermittent issue, then, most will repeat the IN & OUT quickly maybe 5 or so times. The contacts (spring loaded) will burnish and sort of self clean the concentric circular copper/bronze contact rings.
Drive mechanism issues. Somewhere in my brain, I remember that a machine shop or individual made a new drive gear. Googoing a bit….I ran across this.
if the link breaks…EBAY. Shoreline parts. And you will find it, yes….expensive…but one has to decide how to fix. YES…removal is a PITA. It IS accessible, on the Camelots from inside the closet or the side wall. However, you must drop or raise the flex air intake hose (from the rear cap upper corner). Not that bad. You can also do the needed PM on the hose where most were nicked or had minor slits. A couple of rounds of Gorilla tape (clean the hose) works great….10+ years…and perfect. Monaco had more jagged corners and brackets so nicking was easy. This exposes the MAIN Junction Box. Always remember to do that very 5 or so years. The connections loosen….trust me.
THEN….to Richard’s observations. Yes the Dynasty ones with the “rubber wheel drive on the cord” is much nicer. Can you retro fit? Don’t think so. They are NOT CHEAP per a member’s post.
YES, you can run a short length of SealTite or plastic flex conduit and put in a Camco 50 A male. IF I did that…I’d keep a blank Female (no wires) over it. I do NOT think that an ATS will malfunction… but having the possibility where exposed MALE prongs are….spooks me, Then, you salvage the cord…NOW, also replace the MALE end. These are getting older and banging around, even lightly, has lead to power issue….especially the high cost (over $10K) Open Neutral. Then you coil up the old cord…and go manual.
OTHERS probably have some more to add, but this is the gist or history of the past problems…
Thanks for the link on repairs….I KNOW that several have done this….maybe they will chime in…
dandick66
I ordered the ones above from Amazon. I did not install them, since my fix is still working. They will work, though . The form, fit and rating are correct. What are your symptoms? Did you try the screwdriver handle trick?
Jaymor
If you dig into the magnum docs they say not to use these dry contacts for anything directly but only to drive another relay. I am sure that's what happened as I installed the ags in my brothers coach and didn't use external relays. It worked for a while then quit. Most likely it arced the contacts. I haven't had a chance to open it up and test it yet. Maybe this week. I just installed a new Victron inverter and raspberry pi computer running Victron software to manage everything and though I should get the ags working also
96 EVO
On 12/5/2021 at 8:51 AM, dandick66 said:I have only tried to use my AGS one time and it didn’t start. I had assumed that I had the start voltage set too low (11.0 volts as recommended in the manual). Anyway, this week I decided to see if it works. I went to the AGS menu on the remote and executed a test. The generator started and ran for about a minute as it was supposed to. Next, I set the start temperature to 65 degrees and put warm air on the thermostat and watched the temperature rise above 65 and the generator started as it was supposed to. Next, I set the starting voltage to 12.2 volts. I let the batteries run down to 12 volts and the generator did not start. I called Magnum tech support and they had me do some troubleshooting and determined that my AGS board was bad. The part number is ME-AGS-N and the cost is anywhere from$200-$250. Magnum doesn’t sell direct to consumers.
Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT.
Several years between my coach build and yours, but when I first tested my AGS with low voltage, it didn't start either.
A little investigation with a volt meter in the front run bay, I discovered they were using chassis battery power for the AGS sensing 😖!
Quick rewire, and all was well!
pwhittle
Magnum AGS
Jaymor
Thanks! I just ordered the ones off of Amazon. I am in Canada so not as many options.
dandick66
22 minutes ago, pwhittle said:Samsung RF18HFENBSR Service Manual
gjh2916Does anyone have a electronic copy of a service manual for a Samsung RF18HFENBSR residential refrigerator. My freezer has stopped getting cold stays around 55 degrees, frig is working fine stays right at 36-38 degrees. Evap and Condenser fans both work, no ice buildup, defrost circuit is working. No error codes. Red light on circuit board in back of frig is on constant, that's suppose to be normal. I would be flashing a code if something was wrong.
I'm puzzled
Samsung RF18HFENBSR Service Manual
Bill RHere is mine. Have you tried to shutdown the unit for 5 minutes and restart?
Samsung RF18HFENBSR Service Manual
gjh2916Bill R
Thank you for response, yes I have tried to shut down and restart, done this several times. Also it says your manual is not available, maybe it takes awhile to upload. I will try again tomorrow. Is your manual a service manual or owners manual? I'm looking for a service manual.
Samsung RF18HFENBSR Service Manual
Diane M.I think this link may be what you are looking for.
Samsung RF18HFENBSR Service Manual
Bill RI had to reload it. Should work now.
Samsung RF18HFENBSR Service Manual
gjh2916Diane M
yours is users manual I’m looking for a service manual
Bill R
Your manual is a users/owners manual I am looking for a Service/Repair Manual
Samsung RF18HFENBSR Service Manual
Jim ByrdI had the same problem with my RF18 in my coach, it worked fine for over 5 years before the problem developed. I couldn't find any refrigeration repairman willing to service it in place even though the compressor was accessible from the outside of the coach.
I removed the refrigerator and took it to the shop, and they found it low on Freon and they found a leak in the refrigerator evaporator, and it was replaced it. I reinstalled the refrigerator in the coach and within 6 months developed the same symptoms, freezer not freezing. I removed the refrigerator from the coach for the second time and returned it to the shop. They had it in the shop for several month and chased several leaks and made repairs but were never able to prevent the Freon from leaking out. Their concussion was that the leaks were caused by corrosion on the inside of the tubing in an area unaccusable to repair.
All of this was happening during COVID and refrigerators were in short supply. It just so happened that the shop had a used RF 19 that was the same outside dimensions of my RF 18 and I purchased it and installed it in my coach.
So far so good, just keeping my fingers crossed.
Jim
Samsung RF18HFENBSR Service Manual
Duffer51I also had this same issue with my Samsung Refrigerator. Turned out to be the evaporator fan in the freezer. Watched a video on You tube, order the part and took me about 20 minutes to replace it. I got my replacement from PartsSelect.com, their part number is PS4138377.
New Downloads
Blue Sea ML-ACR
Frank McElroy
Blue Sea Magnetic Latching - Automatic Charging Relay (ML-ACR) Application Overview and Installation Instructions.
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