Scotty Hutto

The two most popular on this board are the ESCO LPT50BRD (in your post above) and the Southwire 40100. I have the ESCO, but if I had to do it again (and I hope I never do) would likely go with the Southwire. @Tom CherryTom Cherry provides excellent advice about changing the Iota to a ESCO. Search the board for "transfer switch" and look for his name by the post 😉

Todd, I still have access to the old Monacoers email database and have counted 9 instances of Monacoers member's coaches having "meltdowns" of their Iota ITS-50R. Keystone and Navistar (who owned Monaco at the time) issued a voluntary recall of coaches made while Navistar owned Monaco. Unfortunately, coaches build prior to Monaco Coach Corporation's bankruptcy and acquisition by Navistar in 2008-9 were not included in the recall. Rather than share my opinion, I'll simply post the text for the NHTSA Campaign Number 12V060000. I replaced mine. There is another thread all about replacement options, so I won't belabor that here. Scotty February 16, 2012 NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 12V060000 AUTOMATIC TRANSFER SWITCH ELECTRICAL OVERLOAD OF THE TRANSFER SWITCH COULD LEAD TO OVERHEATING, AND A FIRE, INCREASING THE RISK OF PROPERTY DAMAGE, PERSONAL INJURY, OR DEATH. NHTSA Campaign Number: 12V060000 Manufacturer NAVISTAR, INC Components ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Potential Number of Units Affected 249 Summary NAVISTAR IS RECALLING CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2008-2010 BEAVER AND CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2009-2011 MONACO, AND CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2009-2011 HOLIDAY RAMBLER RECREATIONAL VEHICLES, MANUFACTURED FROM OCTOBER 25, 2007, THROUGH AUGUST 26, 2010, EQUIPPED WITH IOTA ITS-50R 50 AMP AUTOMATIC TRANSFER SWITCHES. THE IOTA ITS-50R 50 AMP AUTOMATIC TRANSFER SWITCH BUS BAR AND/OR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS MAY BE INADEQUATE TO HANDLE THE ELECTRICAL LOAD. Remedy NAVISTAR WILL NOTIFY OWNERS, AND DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IOTA ITS-50R TRANSFER SWITCH FREE OF CHARGE. THE SAFETY RECALL BEGAN ON MARCH 15, 2012. OWNERS MAY CONTACT NAVISTAR AT 1-800-448-7825. Notes NAVISTAR'S RECALL NUMBER IS 12504. CUSTOMERS MAY CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY: 1-800-424-9153); OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

The “pop” is the Intellitec system doing what it’s designed to do - manage the load. It has a relay at each AC unit and if the total coach power exceeds 20A (assuming you have it set to 20A and not the default 30A), it turns off one of the ACs to keep from overloading the shore power system. Even if set to 30A, it will likely shed load when the second AC comes on. Each AC unit typically uses about 14A, so just normal lights, etc, plus 1 AC unit will run on 20A, but add a second AC and you blow through both 20A and 30A, so it sheds load. The Intellitec is controlled by a board usually located in the breaker panel. Hope that’s helpful.

Sharon, Sorry it's taken so long to respond. That's really a question that only @David Pratt can answer, and I believe he's on the road right now. I mentioned him, so hopefully he'll see this and respond. Scotty We'll send out another email update in August that will go out to everyone on the site that has not opted out of receiving emails (if someone opts out, we're prohibited from sending them emails.)

I can echo Joe’s comments. I’ve had the Micro-air for several months and have been very pleased. I also have (almost) full time WiFi, and being able to check on the status is nice. I’ll also echo an earlier comments… being able to see a FPC change the temp from anywhere in the coach is very convenient. The interface isn’t the prettiest software I’ve ever seen, but it does everything I need (and a few things I don’t). Probably the biggest compliment I can give is that my DW loves it and can operate it without having to ask for assistance. (She doesn’t love the NEST in our bricks & sticks).

Short answer: Yes. I’ve done it. Make sure you match the color sequence of the wires. I cut the wire and added RJ-11 plugs on each end with a phone jack crimp tool, then used a double-female phone connector. You don’t have to use this (I already had everything on hand)…. Just make sure your connections are secure, insulated, and somewhat resistant to vibration. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D2Y5DFW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_MT568QB1NDHKYNQ309D1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Drums that large aren’t typically turned is what I’ve been told by those more knowledgeable than me. Unfortunately, I didn’t take pics, but the driver’s side front drum was cracked all the way through — you could see a big crack on the inside of the drum and the same crack - slightly less obvious - on the outside. I’m no expert, but I sure didn’t want to drive anywhere with it like that! The passenger side front looked to have gotten overheated, but no cracks.

My coach is at Jack's as we speak having the front bearings replaced (I had a bad bearing) and new brake drums and shoes installed. Garrey was super helpful.

Found it! The drums are made by Webb Wheel Products, part number 65555B. https://www.webbwheel.com/online_catalog_drumdetail.php?dn=65555B Found them in Birmingham for $1k/ea. The local NAPA counter guy couldn't find it, but they do have them (pricey!!): https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWR65555B Now that I have the specific dimensions (and not worried about the three assembly holes) I'll find a cross available locally. Will post details once I have it. Thanks Everyone!! Looks like our July 1 trip is still on!!! (I was worried). Scotty

Thanks Chuck. I have the steer axle assembly (I202BN201-1) and the Bendix brake assembly (ES-150-4L). Just not the drum. There is a "Hub & Drum Assembly", part number 975352, but I don't need the hub, and can't find the drum. Perfect!! That helps!!!

Yes sir. No joy.

I need help sourcing steer axle brake drums for a 2006 Diplomat. I've been through 1) the Parts List, 2) the downloads section (LOTS of brake info - but nothing on drums) 3) the roadranger.com site (Bendix brakes), and multiple web searches with different search engines. The existing drums are corroded to the point where you can't see the part number. (15 years of road grime will do that.) We've also tried taking the drums to some local parts suppliers (Atlanta area). I've yet to find an exact match; the problem seems to be the three small bolt holes used to attach the drums to the hub before you put the wheels on. Otherwise they can match the drum dimensions. Any help appreciated.

Bob, 1. Where did you put the Seelevel sensor strips? I was thinking curb side, but don’t see how I can get one on my gray tank fresh water and black water look relatively simple… 2. did you use the existing wiring, or run new for the Seelevel? Thanks, Scotty

Bruce, I believe my 2006 Dip has the same tank setup as your 2004. Where did you mount the sensors, and did you use the original wiring, or run your own? I have my gauges in hand and will be installing them in the next couple of weeks, and planning for that… Thanks, Scotty

Yes, the TireMinder Smart TPMS will work with Android devices. (Just not Windows tablets 🙄) It doesn’t need to be the latest device…. My iPad mini is a first generation unit, but it does this just fine.

I’ve used TireMinder for 4 years and have been very pleased with it. It has alerted me to a few issues before they got serious. Just keep the batteries up-to-date. 😉 Tire Minder sends you new batteries for free once per year - you just have to remember to ask for them. Pressure Pro is probably the most loved system on this board (and the old Yahoo Monacoers group.). The only downside I’ve ever heard to Pressure Pro is that you can’t replace batteries in the sensors, although anecdotally they seem to last a long time… when the battery is toast you have to replace the sensor (unless they’ve changed that recently). I chose TireMinder because I can use an old iPad mini for my monitor - having had a system with dedicated monitor before, I like the flexibility of a device that can be upgraded. TM is coming out with an upgrade for that system later this year that will show all tires at once.

The entire floor over the hatch lifts off. It is normally held in place by Velcro. Once you lift the floor off, you can open the hatch.

The Moderators are following this thread (there are five of us), and no rules have been violated. Three comments: 1. The OP mentioned inflation the the context of RVing. There’s no rule against discussing the economy. It was done in the context of RVing, which would still comply with the rules even if it was “political”. 2. Discussing past experiences regarding the economy isn’t considered politics. If it was done in a Democrats vs Republicans or a political nature, we’d take a hard look. We’re not about being censors, just keeping the conversation somewhat on-topic. 3. As a reminder, if you see something you think might be a violation of the rules, click on the three little dots in the upper right hand corner and “Report” it. DO NOT call someone out in the thread. The Moderators will most likely discuss it, and we will handle it. Carry on…

Echoing what Frank said…. My gaskets were attached to the covers (and looked about like Frank’s), and when I replaced the covers after a storm blew them away in summer 2017 I attached the foam to the AC unit like Frank did. I wasn’t as smart as Frank… I just couldn’t figure out where the gaskets were supposed to go on the cover, but I could clearly see where they had been touching inside the unit, so…. As my older brother would say… “even a blind hog finds an acorn once in a while…”

Well, I have his number, but I was told very emphatically never to give it out under penalty of severe harassment. 🤪

Ray, et. al., Invision deployed an upgrade yesterday. Most of the changes were “behind the scenes”, but a few affect the user experience. For those interested, a full description of the upgrade is described here: https://invisioncommunity.com/news/company/whats-new-in-460-r1229/ The only exception to these changes (and for reasons I believe we all understand), Monacoers does not allow anonymous posting.

But, but, but... that's what we DO.

Bill, I'm no expert on headlights, but I have fooled around a lot with the ones on my 2006 Dip and learned a few things the hard ($) way. Couple of thoughts from a lighting engineer: - I sell LED lights (street lighting to utilities, mainly) for a living. We spend a lot of time and money on engineering to make sure the light coming out of the LEDs goes in the right place - it's not easy! Don't get me wrong -- I love LEDs; they feed my family. ...and LEDs will put out a LOT MORE light for the energy used, BUT... the reflectors in your headlamp assembly determine where that light goes. Unless you really do your homework and get LEDs with the exact shape, size, and focal point of the Halogen lights they're replacing (no small feat), most of that extra light goes in the wrong places (i.e., oncoming driver's eye, shoulder of the road, etc.). Also, technically speaking LED headlights in a reflector designed for Halogen (incandescent) bulbs aren't DOT approved, and I hear that in certain places you can get a ticket if caught with LED retrofit bulbs. - Aftermarket headlight assemblies abound, from cheap to expensive. Short of a specialty company that knows what they're doing (see JD's comments above), spend the extra $$$ and buy OEM Lincoln headlight assemblies. (Mine are from a 2000 Buick Century. My coach came from the factory with TYCO knock-offs that put light everywhere but the road. I found actual OEM units on GMParts.com for about 50% more than knock offs, and the difference in light distribution is quite noticeable.) - If you stick with incandescent (Halogen) headlights, make sure you're getting good voltage to the bulbs. My coach did not use relays and ran the headlight current through the headlight switch (!!!). IF your coach doesn't use relays for the headlights, adding them will improve your voltage and light output. The best source for info on how to do this is http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html. Warning: Daniel Stern hates LED headlights. - Aiming is critical. Good article at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html As for me, I've gotten great results with actual GM OEM headlights from a 2000 Buick Century (to replace the TYCO knockoffs - in your case it would be actual Lincoln OEM headlights), a well engineered, but (not super high-output) LED bulb, and some basic headlight aiming. Hope that helps.

Still a goal for some of us...

Plus you have a really nice looking, freshly painted battery tray! 😁