Scotty Hutto

Thanks! Bully is the nickname of my RV. The app is called RV Whisper. It’s a system that allows me to monitor temperatures, battery voltage, etc. either via internet, or if in the coach, directly. It’s fairly inexpensive. I use it to keep tabs on temps in the coach for the dog, the fridge, the batteries, and my wet bay temp. They have a lot of different sensors. What I really like is you can set up text alerts based on any sensor. Here’s their website: https://rvwhisper.com/ I have internet full-time in the coach using a ToGo Roadlink (aka Winegard ConnecT 2.0). I have a 100GB/mo data-only plan through Cricket @ $55/mo.

Finally installed my SeeLevel tank gauges this weekend. Connected the SeeLevel to my RV Whisper, and now I’m all setup to get text message alerts when my tanks get to specific levels. 😉

The ones pictured are Icon Direct. I was a noobie when I got them and just didn’t know to click the button to get the holes pre-drilled. 😜 Since these are original heat pumps (15 yrs old), the covers will likely outlast the heat pumps. PS - and you would think a mechanical engineer would know better than to order black HVAC covers. 🤦🏻‍♂️ But I did.

Thought I’d share one bit of advice and pictures of my re-do. Advice: Buy the true “AC” foam rubber mentioned in a link above. Either from Amazon or a local HVAC supply. I originally used the 1” x 1” foam insulation from Home Depot, and it disintegrated in about two years… that’s why I have a “re-do”. Since I harassed Steven about pictures, here are my before, during, and after holes drilled. I used blue painters tape to create a straight line, then makes it every 2”. I staggered the holes on each line (hard to see on a phone, but if you expand it you can see the marks) I drilled 1” holes, first with a hole saw, then cleaned up the hole with a step bit.

On city water I always have a regulator at 60 PSI, so I don’t notice any difference. Water flow at sinks and shower in most of our coaches build since the early 2000’s are *typically* controlled by flow restriction devices. Tub faucets and toilets would be the exception. I would say I don’t notice any difference in our water useage… if anything we might use a little less when using the pump… not because of pressure, but I think we’re just more conscious of water use? 🤷🏻‍♂️

Steve, There are a few documents in the Downloads (Files) section like what you mention, but none of them will be comprehensive for your coach. Unless, of course you find a list created by someone with the exact year and model coach, with all the same options. My advice would be next time you have a rainy day (or otherwise have some time), sit down with your owner’s manual (first), and creat your own maintenance list. Some use Word, some use Excel, I did mine on paper and then put it in a maintenance app that reminds me based on time and mileage. (I also use the app to track fuel mileage and the like. It’s called Auto Care, and FWIW I track generator maintenance as if it were a separate vehicle based on time and run hours). Once you’ve made it through the Owners Manual (no small task), pull out the box with all of the systems manuals and do the same. This is time intensive, I know. This process took me probably two weeks working on it periodically. The lists you find here are a great starting point, but using this process will teach you more about your specific coach than anything else you can do.

I upgraded the Shureflo in my coach to a Remco 55 AquaJet ARV. This is the pump used on upper level (Dynasty, Exec, Sig) Monacos. Much quieter and better pressure/flow than the Shureflo. Easily found on Amazon or your favorite RV parts store. I will say it was not a “drop-in” for my coach. The OEM pump was mounted vertically on the wall of the wet bay, and I chose to move the pump and mount the new one horizontally, and used 2 of the Remco 25-174 pulsation dampening hoses with right-angle fittings to connect to the existing plumbing. Whole installation, including removal of the Shurflo-flo and installation of the AquaJet took a little over an hour. The DW and I are very pleased with the results!

Mike, If it’s the hose leaving the regulator going out to the coach, reach out to me. They’re really hard to find, but when I finally found one they shipped me two. I offered to ship it back and they declined, so if it’s an exact fit, it’s yours for the shipping cost. If it’s the regulator, you can find the details on getting a new one in the parts list.

Although I love my gadgets (and when driving usually have both my Garmin and Waze running, for different reasons), I still have this and use it…

There are three types of emails you get from Monacoers: 1. Notifications for specific threads. You can sign up for these either by category or specific thread by clicking to follow (upper right on the page) a thread, a category (i.e., chassis, engine, etc.). You are automatically signed up for all threads that you post, and will automatically get notifications for any thread where you post a response. To subscribe: Click on the “Follow” button for any category or thread. Or use the method below To Unsubscribe: Click on your name in the upper right corner of the page Select “Manage Followed Conten” in the drop down Select “Topics”, “Forums” etc. on the left hand side You can add or remove any Notifications from this screen 2. Daily Digest Newsletter - this is the daily email summarizing all activity on the site. To subscribe / unsubscribe: Click on your name in the upper right corner of the page Select “Account Settings” in the drop down On the left hand side of the pop-up box, select “Newsletters” Select or unselect “Monacoers Daily Digest You can also change the format from HTML to test on this page 3. Administrative emails (typically sent by an administrator to all signed up). These are very rare (less than 1 month). I strongly recommend that you do NOT turn these off, as it is the only way the administrators have to communicate with the entire community. But… if you must: To unsubscribe from ALL site emails: Click on your name in the upper right corner of the page Select “Account Settings” in the drop down On the right hand side of the pop-up box, select “Notification Settings” Scroll to the bottom of the page and find the box titled: “Notification Types available” On the right hand side, click on the the highlighted line that says “Stop All Email Notifications” After do this, you will not receive ANY emails from Monacoers Hope that helps. Scotty

Fleetguard Filters from Cummins parts online. Shell Rotella T4 oil from Walmart

Richard, I had the same issue with my 2006 Dip. The spring in the arm that holds the blade to the windshield had lost just a bit of tension over time. I ended up replacing the arm and all was well. My wipers were made by AM Equipment, and the helped me find an exact replacement. https://www.amequipment.com/windshield-wiper-arms

There is also a generator sense wire that runs to your AGS module (if you have one). Fortunately for me, mine is in the bay next to the battery compartment, so it’s a short run from that generator sense wire to my ML-ACR (but I haven’t hooked it up yet 🤦🏻‍♂️).

Moderators Note: Some posts from this thread were split to a different thread on Lithium Batteries.

Follow-up… Upon further investigation, the white wire going to the Trombetta is a ground and does not go all the way to the front run bay (FRB). The purple wire does make it to the FRB, but after going through two connectors (one of which ties to a relay tied to the IRD), it changes to a purple/black wire by the time it arrives at the Battery Boost switch. Upon further consideration I plan to run new wiring for the ML-ACR. Since I must run new wire to have full functionality of the ML-ACR switch, I plan to run a 4 or 5 conductor cable from the battery bay to the FRB, have a few extra wires on that route, and leave the existing wiring intact.

What an elegant solution for the surge protector! Innovation at it’s best.

Might be?? I always called it an A pillar, but I don’t even recall where I got that from.

Rick, For my front camera, I plan to mount exactly as John did. By removing my TV, I can access the back of the front cap. I have replaced marker lights and broken a wire in the process, plus fished speaker cables through the front cap, so I know the drill there. The camera cable will come to the driver side A pillar and down under the dash. My “brain” will be mounted in the dash where I already have a factory access panel. I currently have a video multiplexer there, so already have power, grounds, etc to that point. My 10” monitor is already dash mounted with a Ram mount bar that also holds my TPMS and Garmin 780 The rear camera will be mounted as John’s, except I don’t have the vent on top, so I’ll use a cable plate as in his pictures. That brings me to the side cameras…. I want to mount them mid-ship, but can’t quite picture how that would work on a slide. While the ability to see clearly when the slides are open is a great security feature, my primary focus is blind spot elimination when driving. My mid-point is about 12” behind my curbside slide, and about 24” behind my roadside slide. My only issue is an “elegant” way to get the cables to the roof. If I mount them just below the beltline, I think that will be optimum for the viewing angle, but right now I don’t see a way to do that on the curbside without an exposed cable. On the roadside I can punch through to the refrigerator vent, up, and out, just as John did. I have a residential reefer, so heat isn’t an issue there. Cables will come across the roof, and down through the drivers side A pillar. I have an existing hole and plate there where the previous owner ran satellite cables. If I can come up with an “elegant” way to get the camera cable to the roof on the curbside,I’ll be ready to go. Right now my best idea is use eternabond tape to secure the cable/sleeve where it goes over the roof radius, but the thought of that white stripe doesn’t sit well. Any ideas or suggestions appreciated…

On my 06 Dip I removed the panel in one piece. It’s a bit fiddley, because I had to reach behind it to disconnect the shower and water fill connections. Most of what’s on that panel is just a few screws and maybe one connector. The only one I had an issue with was the panel with the water pump and light switches. If you disconnect those wires, make sure you take a picture of the connections first. The panel itself must be flexed to remove it, but once you get the panel out, replacing the hose (or hose reel) is pretty straightforward. On mine, the gear was stripped, and since I had to pull the entire reel I went ahead and replaced the hose. it probably took me three hours total for removal, repair, and replace everything. That’s been about four years ago and everything still works fine. Here’s info on the replacement gear kit in case anyone needs that.

There are certain words that get “flagged” by the system software and require moderator approval. I think by the time I saw the approval notice you might have edited it, because I couldn’t find anything wrong with your post. The “earthen structure” word shouldn’t get you flagged. 😂 It’s mostly an annoyance for everyone, posters and moderators alike… if I could turn it off I would. UPDATE: I still can’t turn it off, but now it will post the first letter and asterisks (for example: d***) for all but the most offensive language, instead of requiring admin approval. I get 1-2 of these per day, so yay.

Here is a link to the complete wiring diagram in the downloads section. There is also a file for the 2007 Diplomat, but the AC diagrams should be the same. https://www.monacoers.org/files/file/206-2006-diplomat-chassis-wiring-diagram/

If you have the Dometic Comfort Control Center (CCC) thermostat, the Mode button should cycle between off/ac/heat pump/furnace. If “furnace” isn’t showing up, you may not have power to the furnace (blown fuse, bad connection), or there might be a loose connection in the control wiring somewhere. The ccc connects to a control box in the front AC, which then has connections to you furnace. (See wiring diagram below). The first thing to try is check fuses (I’m sure you’ve done that). Next, remove the thermostat and unplug the phone wire to the thermostat and clean the contacts. For troubleshooting purposes, a pencil eraser will work for that. Next would be the contacts in the front AC. After that start checking wiring to the furnace. Hope this helps.

Jim, You *may* not need to run a wire. I posted some questions for the experts on the “ML-ACR” thread mentioned above. I suspect our coaches are wired almost identically. It may be a pretty easy fix.

@vanwill52, @pwhittle, @Bob Nodine I have my ML-ACR in hand. My coach (2006 Dip) has a LN 160A alternator, an Isolation Relay Delay (IRD), and a Trombetta. I don’t have the BIRD, Big Boy, or (to my knowledge) an SSI. I added a Amp-L-Start a few years back. There are 4 wires into the Trombetta…. Coach+, Chassis+, purple (goes to IRD), and white (battery combiner switch). Looking at the schematics, it appears I could use the white wire to connect to the remote switch that comes with the ML-ACR. The purple “voltage sensing” wire to the IRD could be run up from the FRB and used for the LED. I would need to add +12v and ground from the front run bay (directly below the switch). The Trombetta, Amp-L-Start, and IRD would be removed. What am I missing? Reading the above posts, apparently I need to run an additional wire for the remote, but if I already have the white wire running to the battery combiner and the purple wire to the IRD, it seems that those would work? Also, would I need to make any changes to my alternator wiring? I plan to change out the alternator to the Delco unit before we go on our “big adventure” next year. Finally, (for bonus points🤣) I’m thinking I could pull the start signal “Isolation #1” from the starter solenoid. Then, the next bay over I have the AGS module for my Magnum inverter. There is a generator run sense wire going to that. Could I piggyback on that as the “Isolation #2” signal for the generator? Any and all advice appreciated.

Thanks so much! I have three slides, so my sides will be a little different. I’m about to go do some maintenance, take pictures and measurements… I’ll post my results when I get ‘er done. Scotty