Scotty Hutto

…and I pronounce if “ruffle-mayo”. Or not at all…😉🤪

No. The only wet-bay option my 2006 Dip doesn’t have is the “Electric Automatic Winterization” also known as the Swan “Prevent-A-Freeze” system. (Since it was originally sold by Lazydays in Florida, that makes sense) Based on my wiring diagrams, that option has two unused harnesses in the wet bay. One for the bypass valve (6-pin AMP connector with orange, red, white black, yellow, with pin 6 unused) and the winterizing valve (6-pin AMP connector with red, brown, white, blue, orange, and pin 6 unused). I suspect the blue may have faded to violet over time. 😉 Both of those harnesses go from the wet bay to behind the information panel. I traced them to confirm that.

I have a 2006 Dip, and can tell you that connector terminates behind the information panel in the coach. I used it for the wiring for my SeeLevel system so I could put the display where the old KIB display was in that panel. What I can’t tell you is what option it was originally designed for.

The only modem settings I changed from the default are: APN fast.t-mobile.com TTL 65 iPV4 only Is that what you were asking?

Follow-up… A few weeks and 88Gb later. Speeds are still fantastic, still with only 2 bars service (my phone only has one bar) with only the standard paddle antennas. Proxicast antenna not hooked up yet… No throttling or slowdowns so far. I have about a week left in the billing cycle…. We’ll see what happens if I exceed 100 GB…

These might help. The troubleshooting guide has an exploded view. Shoreline Reel Model RW Installation Instruction Sheet.pdf Shoreline Reels Mechanical Driveline Troubleshooting Guide.pdf Shoreline RV Reels Brochure.pdf

@Frank McElroy can you add this to the downloads section?

I use a Watts 263A with oil-filled gauge. I bought it from here and have had great customer service. I sure didn’t pay this much 4 years ago, but I guess brass and stainless steel have gone up a lot. https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/263a-lf-regulator-stainless I keep it set at 50 PSI, which seems to work well for us. I’ve experimented with everything between 40 and 60 over the last four years, and 50 works for us; but then Debbie doesn’t like the shower spray too hard. Your mileage may vary… EDIT: I found my receipt and paid $99 in 2018. Almost triple the price now, but still a lot cheaper than a leak…. That happened to me in our TT before we discovered the joys of a motorhome. Connector blew off of the water heater and flooded the kitchen. What a mess!

Not to be Captain Obvious 😂, but the pinch bolt that holds the u-joint in place should go through that rounded grove in the splines. That’s what holds the u-joint in place and keeps it from slipping down the splines. IF the picture above is the “before”, your u-joint is actually 1-2” down and in danger of falling off the splines without the pinch bolt running through the groove.

Lenny, Here is an excellent thread on what you’re experiencing. And @vanwill52 is our resident expert on Monaco chassis issues, although certainly not the only one. https://www.monacoers.org/topic/3467-roadmaster-8-airbag-suspension-h-frame-movement-and-resulting-wandering/#comment-38152

Follow up to my earlier comment. If you read the mice type (fine print) in the T-Mobile plan, it’s a 50GB plan. If you go above 50GB in a month, they have the right to throttle your stats speeds, but they don’t cap it. I purchased a MoFi 5500 (5G version) and have been playing with it on a T-Mobile plan this weekend. My speeds, even with a relatively weak signal (2 bars) have been pretty impressive 45+ Mbps down, 15-+ up. that’s just with the paddle antennas that come with it. Stay tuned for updates, as I *will* go over the 50GB threshold this month, and will report back. As for the questions about the individual in the video, he no longer uses a MoFi. He has purchased a Insty Connnect device (http://instyconnect.com). I looked at that device and it’s north of $1,100 delivered with bells and whistles. It is a very neat concept in that the modem is housed in the antenna array, and it uses a USB cable to connect the router to the modem/antenna, which in theory has much lower losses. For my use, I felt the MoFi 5500 and the Proxicast antenna were a better fit. Your mileage may vary…

Mike, Fantastic work! Where did you get the Dynasty emblems done, and what did you have to provide? I’d love to get a set like that done for my Diplomat. Thanks, Scotty

I had floor rot in the corners of my flat floor slide on my 2006 Dip. cleaned out the wet wood (about a 4”x4” section) and filled with Bondo wood filler. Then I got Guardian plates from TalinRv.com and installed them myself. Problem solved. That’s been 4 years ago and no problems. If you measure yourself, double and triple check your measurements. (Voice of Experience!) Just as an FYI… on my previous coach (2002 HR Vacationer), I had the same thing and paid $8k to have the slide pulled and rebuilt. Repairs to my Dip were a small fraction for the same exact problem.

@pwhittle found a place that built a complete set for his 2005 Sig. I bet they could help.

You may be able to at the moment, and I'm certainly no authority, but in my experience, carriers (AT&T, Verizon, T-Mobile, etc.) typically find these "holes" in their system. They make their money selling data, and if this allows people to bypass their "meters", they'll catch it sooner or later. Of course that assumes there is no watershed event in the near future that causes cellular carriers to have to shift strategies. Remember when you used to pay for cell phone use (or long-distance calls) by the minute? What changed that? Maybe Starlink will be what forces that change. Time will tell...

From the Home page, scroll down to the section called “Parts & Services Vendor List” and there are two forums under that — one for parts, one for services. or just follow this link: https://www.monacoers.org/forum/20-rv-service-reviews/

I used the 5 ton. That’s roughly the size of a dash AC system. I did use the Leak Shot system after fully charging the unit. You also need to run the AC at full blast for about an hour.

Similar story... except mine has been going on for about a year. And like Bob S, I'm about $600 into two different shops. Both spent significant time (and lots of my money) leak testing & sniffing. Finally determined leak was in the evaporator. My mechanic would refill with R134a and it would leak down over about a 2 week period. Finally he said he shouldn't keep refilling... we needed to fix the leak. At the Gathering this year in Tampa, @David Pratt mentioned Leak Saver and related his experience. So rather than spend an even bigger pile of money replacing the evaporator, I figured I'd spring for the $35 it cost on Amazon. That's been almost two months ago and it's still holding a charge and working. 🤞 Website: https://www.leaksavers.com/collections/automotive Purchase on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071VMXMLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Based on feedback received from the membership, we have renamed the "Service Companies" section to "RV Service Reviews" and removed the requirement for posts to be moderated. Due to the Moderators' past experience, we will continue to monitor this forum closely, but will no longer require moderation of every post. Please use this section to recommend those companies who have provided excellent service to your Monaco, Holiday Rambler, Beaver, Safari, or related coach. We continually try to improve the site and it's usefulness to you, our members. Suggestions are welcome. 😁

There are a couple areas of the site where all posts have to be approved; Service Companies is one of those areas. The intent is for this to be a place to recommend service providers members have had a good experience with. We've had a problem in the past of places getting bashed - at least a couple of times unfairly. For that reason, one of the four moderators reviews posts in this section.

I gotta ask… did you polish the housing on that AC compressor?

That’s Mr. @Happycarz to you. 🤣

Paul, As Vito mentioned, they are prone to humming because of the 120v AC coils. They are considered a very solid product, and if installed where the humming doesn’t bother you, are just fine. There’s a lot of good discussion that recaps most of the info from the “old” Yahoo! Monacoers site regarding ATS units in the following thread:

Minor correction… and double check your system to be sure… I believe most dash ACs of 2001 vintage should be R134a. R410a is typically used in the Dometic Penguin (rooftop) units. Otherwise Vito’s advice is spot on!