saflyer

I’d like to know more about this problem. We dump and then have the sewer smell for some time. I reasoned it was because our toilet flush doesn’t seal well and after dumping the residual feces was no longer covered by water. After several flushes the smell went away. Just my reasoning. Now the information in this post suggests these vents. I’m not sure but my guess is these are at the top of pipes next to and attached to the sink and shower drain lines where the p-traps are. Am I correct? If so, since that is the gray water system how is that related to sewer smell? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

I guess it’s a tub/shower but only a little kid could fit in the tub part. I agree a simple screen with holes is the answer since we’ll never use it as a tub. A project for when we get home. Thanks That’s what I was wondering. Does the mechanical part come out by unscrewing it? Will try. Thanks

We’ve tried the hot water and hot water with dish soap route. That didn’t help. In case this makes any difference here is the drain we are dealing with. I don’t think it lends itself to a plumber’s helper or any other probe. It’s the kind you step on to open and close. Would removing it and replacing it with a simple plate with holes be the answer?

Those are the details I needed. Thanks

You say a battery maintainer for the chassis battery needs to be at least a 1.75-2 amp one. Why is that. I have a 1 aml Battery Minder that I was thinking of using. Would that not work? Ed

Thanks. Found it. I have a good memory……………it’s just short. Ed

Yes but it’s dependent on the search terms you use. Evidently I’m not using the right ones.

OK, I’ve used every search term I can think of but to no avail. Can someone give me a list of Monaco lines versus their corresponding Holiday Rambler models. I promise I’ll save it this time. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

Do you have a web address or other contact info for RVA?

My leveling control panel switches have stated to stick so it’s difficult to just do short taps. I have to physically return them to the neutral position after activating them. I plan to pull the control panel out and inspect it. Is there a good lubricant to shoot on the underside of the switches? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

Our shower is slow to drain. When showering it fills to almost my ankles. What is best way to clear it? I don’t know it it’s the P-trap as I read it may also have something to do with a vent through the roof. I also read not to push a physical device to the P-trap as it may have a membrane to stop odors. Ed ’05 HR Ambassador

Ok, problem solved. Had a mobile RV tech come and in ten minutes found the problem. It was a resettable fuse or CB just downstream from the battery cutoff switch. Image attached. Thanks for everybody’s advice. I will bypass the salesman switch soon, add a DCDC charge connection for the lithiums and possibly an Amp-L-Start to keep the chassis batteries charged. One more question at the risk of thread drift. One thing I learned is my leveling leg activating switches are sticking. I need to take it out of the console and clean it. What kind of spray lube should I use? Thanks again, Ed

So, where do the positive and negative cables go from the battery bay to the front run bay? Does the positive one run uninterrupted there. I know where it comes in to the front run bay. What about the negative cable? Does it run uninterrupted. I know TC said there are some big fuses somewhere along one of the lines but where? I can’t identify it at the FRB OCB.

What are the chances my 12v problems have anything to do with my leveling jacks not extending. I just tried the jacks and what I could hear above the low bag pressure warning was a click around the dash area.

I did not have voltage to any of the posts on the salesman solenoid, large or small. Here is an image of the battery bay. BTW, that is where the boost solenoid is. Testing from the positive of the house batteries, red arrow, to the negative junction, yellow arrow, gives 13.4v. So the disconnect switch and batteries are good. From that junction it looks like the negative cable goes in the back wall and comes out I know not where. Also, the battery boost switch is disconnected. I could use jumper cables between the house snd chasdis batteries fir your test. Is the rear run bay the battery bay?

The fuse is good. There is 0 voltage to either large posts on the side of the solenoid. I used the frame around the bay door for ground. Of course that may not be a good ground. Any other options for ground in that area. Also, what is PCB?

To check voltage on each side of solenoid what should I use for ground lead if my meter? I don’t see any solenoid for the battery boost system but I know there is one. Salesman switch image included. I believe it gives 12v to coach when pushed in at top and disconnects when slider is pushed down and switch pushed in at bottom. Correct? My wife cycled it a few times with no click sound at solenoid.

I tested for continuity across what I believe is the salesman switch solenoid, the black cylinder in the lower left of the image. Checked between the large posts on either side. It showed continuity. It also has a fuse that is good.

Having a brain hitch. Where is the rear run bay? I’ll note also that the Magnum remote for the inverter is working and shows batteries charging. The house batteries are being charged by solar as well. If the CO and propane alarms don’t test I assume that rules out the salesman switch, according to my understanding of the manual.

Where are they and what do they look like?

Yes on the Intellitec Smart EMS and no 12v devices work anywhere including the propane detector. The main switch panel where the tank level test, water heater, slide operation switches are located is inactive except for chassis battery voltage test. The roof air control panel has no power either. I checked the salesman switch. I believe it is reset by pulling out on the bottom of it, am I correct? (At one time years ago I intended to eliminate it if it used power to stay closed but eventually decided it didn’t draw from the batteries so I left it operational. Wish I hadn’t.) I cycled the house battery disconnect and checked it for continuity. It’s good. That’s what I know so far.

My house batteries are not charged from the alternator. I disconnected that function when I installed lithium batteries. Will be adding a DCDC charger in the future. The house batteries are being charged from AC through the charger/inverter. It indicates charging correctly.

Edit. Revised Topic title to state the issue more clearly. End of edit. We came back from a day at the beach to find none of the 12v lights or devices work. All 120v items like lights and microwave work. The surge suppressor shows power from each leg of the 50a shore power. The EMS panel doesn’t have any lights illuminated but, like I said, all 120v outlets work. Is there some main 12v fuse that may have blown? Earlier in the day we had a problem with the leveling jacks. I was going to adjust them. The front jack switch stuck in the extend position and might have gone to it’s limit. After retracting it some none of the legs would extend, only retract. When I try to get any of the legs to extend I hear some sound from the lower front electrical bay and at the hydraulic pump but not the sound of its running. Could there be a connection. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

This brings up two questions. What are the manufacturer options for replacement A/Cs? Mine are Dometic Penguin ducted heat pumps. Dometic and Coleman are options, I believe. I think there are at least two new manufacturers, Furrion and one other that I can’t remember the name of. Do they all have the same footprints and attachment design? Has there been any improvement in noise levels from any of the manufacturers? When I need to replace mine I’d like to upgrade to 15k, also. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

My original Dometic shrouds didn’t have holes. Should I replace them with shrouds with holes or possibly drill holes in mine for more efficiency? Or don’t they have holes for a reason?