OhReally

I agree with David.

Mike, I assume you have lithium batteries since you are using solar. If so, the following information is appropriate. If not lithium, then forget this. What setting are you using on your Magnum? If you have LiFe batteries and are using CV/CC instead of LiFe setting, it is probably not a problem as the information on the display does not correspond to actual voltage or current. It is part of an equation within the Magnum as it sometimes trades off voltage and current in the charging cycle. If you have it set for Lithium, not LiFe, then voltage is a little high but still may not correspond to actual voltage or a problem. Best to get your voltmeter out and check the voltage at your batteries to make certain it is not just an artifact of the Magnum inverter/charger. If you use Magnum's CV/CC setting on LiFe batteries you can lower the battery charge voltage just a little and keep your Life batteries charged while not allowing the Magnum to overheat or input too much voltage or current.

If you're talking about the blue and white stickers on top front and back, I got mine from Amazon.

DC to DC charger is the way to go. Completely passive and no need to worry about different battery chemistries. Use your solar and inverter to charge your house batteries and connect DC to DC charger to be driven by solar to charge your start batteries.

Here is picture you are looking for. My understanding is that if you are only using the return manifold part of the pump, you could only develop a leak where the banjo fittings connect to the manifold. Good luck.

Definitely jacks up. Rust and corrosion can occur on jack rams and seals will dry out if jacks left down over prolonged period. Only exception to this would be if you wanted to visit coach no less than every two weeks and lubricate rams and seals with WD 40, or raise and lower jacks during that visit. -Jamie

I know it might be difficult but try to get lights from US source. The Chinese variety bleach out too soon. -Jamie

When the switches are working correctly the lights will only work when the switch inside the coach is on and the doors are opened. In other words, the door switches turn the lights OFF when the switch inside the coach is on. Cheers, -Jamie However, if you don't have the chime or other signal inside the coach, this is the way it works. The switch on the light simply enables or disables the light, regardless of door open or interior switch on.

Surge Guard Auto Transfer Switch, Model 41300 for sale. Excellent condition. Was installed in my coach before I rewired my system to accept lithium batteries. See attached pictures. $50.00 OBO

Yes I installed fass. I could not get to the lift pump easily on my coach - mostly because of wire bundles and liquid lines, so I left the lift pump and manifold attached to the engine block. My original fuel line plumbing may be a little different than yours. I had a line from the tank going through the first filter (on left of engine block when viewed from rear) and then to the lift pump and then through the second filter (on right of engine block when viewed from rear) and then to the injection pump. Here's what I did: 1- removed fuel line from first filter to lift pump and plugged the hose end because of no access at lift pump 2- removed fuel line from second filter and plugged the hose end - same access problem as above 3- tied both of above lines out of the way 4- moved second fuel filter and filter mount (originally right of engine when looking at timing cover from rear) to first filter location, leaving fuel line to injection pump intact 5- removed fuel line from tank from first filter mount and connected it to second fuel filter and mount (now at first filter location) and discarded original first filter and filter mount 6- added plumbing on top of original second filter mount for fuel pressure gauge and sending unit for dash gauge 7- purchased correct wiring connector from Napa to connect to original lift pump electrical harness and added the relay to fool the ECM The above left the lift pump return manifold intact for the fuel return to the tank and cut the fuel supply to the original lift pump. I wanted to remove the original two fuel lines from/to the lift pump but pump access prevented it. Let me know if this isn't clear. -Jamie

I have two new fuel filters and a Pure Sine Wave Inverter for sale. Since l installed the FASS system I no longer need the fuel filters. They are: Fleetguard FS 1000 (with drain) and Fleetguard FS 1003 (with drain and electrical connector for water)Both for $30.00 or FS 1000 for $15.00 and FS 1003 for $20.00 plus shipping. The Inverter is a 2500 Watt, Pure Sine Wave, 12VDC to 120 VAC Inverter. Gently used and in good condition. $200.00 plus shipping. PM me for additional information.

Your lift pump is located on the right side of the engine when looking at the engine timing cover at the back. It should run about 30 seconds and shut off after you turn on the key without starting. Turn on the key and get out and walk back to the rear curb wheel and listen for the pump. Do this 2 to 3 times and then try starting the engine. If it still doesn't start you could try having someone else turn on the key after you have loosened the fuel filter at the engine. Only loosen it to the point when the filter gasket lightly touches the filter mount. Turn on the key and listen for the fuel to arrive at the filter and quickly tighten it to stop leak. If the loose filter doesn't start leaking when the lift pump runs, the lift pump isn't pumping. If it isn't pumping, look for leaks in the line, as best you can see near the engine and near the fuel tank. The installed fuel lines are good quality so they should only leak where connections exist or where the lines have been damaged. If still no start, you might try mounting a fuel pressure gauge (about $25) at one of the fuel filters - there should be a plugged access hole on the filter, many stories about adding the gauge on Monaco/Holiday Rambler forums. Pressure should be about 18 PSI. If pressure checks out, the fuel supply is not the problem. -Jamie

Brouck, I assume you have already tried the switch to connect all batteries. if not, do that to start the generator as Wayne suggested. It will be much easier to get the generator to start instead of the engine. After generator starts and if you don't have AC available, plug in engine heater if you have one. Mine is a plug hanging near a 120 volt AC duplex near the engine. Yours may be different. You may also have frozen batteries. Even if you have voltage showing, as you indicated, it could be due to a single battery and the other(s) have frozen. Check fluid level in all of them. If they froze, don't add water, it will simply run out of breaks in battery case. Basically, slowly raise the temperature of your coach. If you get aqua hot or any other source of heat working, open all cabinets to increase the heat circulation everywhere. Good luck. -Jamie

Joe, one more thing that hasn't been mentioned about batteries. Many battery seller's simply add acid to dry lead acid batteries and then sell them. The added acid will result in a minimum battery charge but NOT a fully charged battery. The seller is leaving it up to the buyer to charge the battery or, IF it is sufficient to start the vehicle, the buyer's alternator then charges the battery. This is not a good practice because an alternator charging a "dead" battery can damage the alternator due to excess heat. As Stephen mentions 12 volts is not a fully charged battery - probably considered dead. Batteries have what is known as a surface charge when depleted or when acid is added with no subsequent charging. That surface charge is probably all you are measuring at your meter. When you subsequently charge a new battery you add significant amperage to the battery. Think of it in terms of a liquid in a pitcher. A partly full pitcher is not empty but it has a minimum of what it can hold. When you fill the pitcher to the top you add as much as it can hold, just like adding charge to the nearly empty battery. Get those batteries charged up. If your generator now starts, leave it running and plug in a battery charger on the engine start batteries. By doing so with your generator you will overcome generator problems due to it's lack of use (also turn on an AC in your coach to properly load the generator) and get your batteries charged. Good luck on this and your new venture, Captain. -Jamie

Joe, from your picture of battery connections I'm not sure it is picture quality or dirty terminals. Again, if it were mine I would get those cables off the battery and use one of the cheap battery terminal cleaners on both batteries and wire terminals. Make sure to clean the posts and wire terminals until both are shiny lead, then reassemble per picture. BTW, your ignition switch doesn't carry the starter load. It simply provides low current 12 volts to the starter solenoid, where the solenoid then provides high current 12 volts to the starter. Get that large black wire off the chassis, wherever it is connected, and make those connections shiny with a wire brush or sandpaper. The large red wire will go directly to the starter solenoid. Clean it up to shiny at the solenoid, as well. There is also a large wire going from solenoid to the starter. Get it off and clean it shiny also. Since you get nothing from front or rear start key your switches may be good and the problem is elsewhere. Be aware that when you clean up all your positive (red) connections at the solenoid and starter you should have your battery positive disconnected to prevent accidental arcing. Don't use the RV battery disconnect to disconnect this because it probably won't disconnect the battery from the solenoid and starter. I've tried to be succinct in my instructions since I don't know your automotive/electrical background, please don't take offense. Just trying to be very clear. And, get those batteries charged. The dash voltmeter may be correctly showing you a bad connection, a bad battery or nothing significant. Good luck again. -Jamie

It does sound like you have the batteries incorrectly connected or, the batteries have a limited charge or, you have a bad starter or, you have a bad connection. Here are some things I would try. It isn't easy to test the starter but you can start by disconnecting all positives from the starter and then check continuity between the positive starter post and ground. That should be open. Beyond that you could remove the starter to see if the armature turns, inspect brushes and check to see if the solenoid is moving when power is applied and that it is making good connection within itself. You should also try putting a charger on the batteries to make certain they are fully charged. New batteries can show voltage but be only partially charged. You should also minimize the positive connections to the new batteries by disconnecting anything other than power to the starter and the ignition switch and then try starting. If none of this works I would go through EVERY high power connection (big wires), positive and negative, to make certain that connections are all clean and TIGHT. Good luck! -Jamie

Frank O, what makes you sure of this? What testing was done to diagnose? I'm not an expert on this but it sounds like a possible drastic diagnosis that may not be correct and you might discover you have spent a bundle of money and not fixed your originalp roblem. -Jamie

Of course you can, Larry. -Jamie

Yes, LEDs can also cause this. Any low voltage to them usually results in flashing. And for the record, you should never install LEDs into your original halogen socket. They may produce brighter lights but the light won't be in the correct position in the original headlight reflector and you will get poorer light output - maybe just the opposite of why you went to LEDs - and often blinding oncoming drivers, lol. -Jamie

That will happen with a bad battery or battery connections. I would check both my battery connections to make sure they are clean and tight and my connections to the headlights. -Jamie

Some Onan generators get cantankerous and start but then stop shortly thereafter when the oil level is low. You might want to rule that out before going further. -Jamie

Ditto on what jacwjames said! -Jamie

As Dwight indicated, the front of the coach will rack (bend to one side or another) due to limited structure. That's why you need good "control" of the windshield hole shape. Gluing it to the coach is sometimes the solution on cheaper coaches in order to get the necessary control of the windshield hole. As an RV tech, I always wanted to see manufacturers not use one piece windshields because in a two piece, each side could move independently, helping to maintain the best seal as the coach moved and contorted. -Jamie

Like all before me said, no glue windshield. The main reason to glue to coach is to keep gasket in place while working the windshield down into the rubber gasket. If they glue to windshield you will likely have stress fractured (cracks) occur down the road. Go back to installer and if he insists on gluing to windshield, find another installer. -Jamie

CaptPat, the relay that you see is most likely a circuit to prevent the opaque visor from coming down and blocking your vision while the engine is running. The relay should feed the power to your visors only when sitting still or engine running. -Jamie