OhReally

Don't know about Nordic replacement but you might also consider JC Refrigeration in Indiana. I just ordered mine and will replace my Norcold 1200 with a 12volt compressor cooler shortly.

Ken, my coach is 2003 and the relays are in a black box on the wall facing the door on the battery compartment. The box is labeled "...solar" something. There is also a fuse for the slide lockout inside the box that does not appear anywhere on coach schematics. If that fuse blows the system will not get a lockout signal from things like engine running and the slides won't move.

My slide relay is located in the battery compartment against the back wall. Try there.

Ron, I have both ToughTop and Stone Vos on my coach and can't say enough good about Stone Vos awning and topper material. Tough Top is a fine company and they do what they say they will do and provide an excellent warranty and price, but my experience with vinyl awnings is, they roll up looser creating a bigger roll, they stretch in places you don't want, and they misbehave when the weather cools down. Your mileage may vary. Jamie J.

Dennis, thanks. I will be traveling next few days and won't know new address until I reach Gulfport, MS on Monday evening next week. Will contact you again, then. -Jamie

Dennis, I'll pay you $25 plus shipping for your panel. Mine works fine but PO scrubbed most of the writing off! -Jamie

Speedometer jumping is often the result of bad grounds. That's the first place I would look. You may have a wire braid from the chassis to the transmission that needs to be removed, cleaned up and reinstalled. I would also check for and clean up any wire braid from the chassis to the engine while you're at It. Good luck.

Well, my issue WAS with Nationwide insurance, not Nationwide Glass. They did not have their own glass installers so they asked me for a recommendation. I suggested a vendor that I had previously dealt with and they checked him out and then arranged everything with no further involvement from me. Additionally, as Dennis suggested, I went to the state commissioner and that was a total waste of time. They didn't even bother to contact me for information; again, our tax dollars at work!

Joel, sorry to hear about your issue with Nationwide but I had similar problems with them. They refused to replace a windshield that came off the delivery truck broken and wouldn't even get involved with the delivery service to fight for me. I took them to the state insurance watchdog and that too was a waste of time (our tax dollars at work!). I ended up purchasing a new windshield out of pocket. I can't recommend Nationwide for RV insurance under any circumstances.

Bruce, I had a similar problem that I traced to an in line fuse next to the pump/solenoid in the rear of my coach. I looked at the fuse repeatedly and it looked good but in the end it turned out to actually be open. Wasted a lot of time for no good reason.

James, just to close the loop on differences between your dryer plug and the RV wiring. The dryer takes 240 volts to run and your RV does not. The RV takes two 120 volt ines, splits them inside the RV breaker box and runs a 120 volt leg to some plugs and appliances and another 120 volts leg to others. Nowhere do the two 120 volt legs feed any single plug or appliance like in your dryer. Unless your RV has been rewired in some fashion (highly unlikely), you DO NOT HAVE ANYTHING THAT REQUIRES 240 volts. This is the easiest way to describe the difference between plugs without getting deep into electrical theory. As others have said, you may have damaged the refrigerator or you may have damaged the onboard Electrical Management System (EMS). Any good RV tech can figure it out. Do yourself a favor and either get a dedicated RV type receptical installed or use plug adapters to get only a single 120 volt input into your coach for limited power while parked at your home. Good luck! -Jamie

Joe, just a couple things to keep in mind as you sort your tv problems. 1- many campground cable tv services WILL NOT WORK if you have the rv antenna booster powered on while trying to get a cable signal, and 2- many TVs WILL NOT WORK (especially if a few years old) with the digital signal from the campground cable - nothing to do but try to update the TV's firmware or get a newer TV.

One thing that no one has mentioned so far is that some tank, lines, filters, etc. combinations simply lend themselves to accumulating more water in the tank than others. So, IMO if you haven't had a problem and don't use some preventative like Biobor you are either very lucky or your number has not yet come up. Cheers.

If your voltage was slightly low your fridge might do as you describe. Always check the voltage when you suspect a cooling problem, especially when operation in hot weather. You could also have a bad heater element. Measure the current dissipated through each coil and compare to each other and specs.

Gary, your melted plug could be anything from a loose connection in the plug itself or a lightning strike on the storage facility power to a loose connection in your breaker box. Since you obviously need a new plug end you will eliminate the plug issue and if the DC breaker for your cable reel actually went at the same time as a power surge, I would guess a lightning strike on the storage facility. Unfortunately it is difficult to diagnose but I would check out all of the remaining appliances/items in your coach looking for other failures to determine a power surge. Another thing to do is closely examine your AC breaker box looking for signs of something getting hot. While doing this inspection, it is a good time to re-tighten all wire connections in the box, especially the incoming shore power leads. This re-tightening is something that should be done routinely at least once per year anyway to prevent future box/wiring damage and potential fire. Good luck! -Jamie

Yes, replacing the switch is more difficult to get to than it is to replace, but you do need to drain the air pressure when changing the switch. Keep in mind that the circuit design is the problem and your new switch will be compromised by that same bad circuit design and may fail sooner than later.

Ray, sounds like you got the Cummins B-Team. The battery voltage may drop during starting with a bad starter but your batteries may be fine. Voltage is probably the wrong thing to monitor to diagnose this problem. The bad starter has sucked up a lot of current from the batteries and you naturally see a low voltage condition. Based on your history replacing batteries I would guess the starter has been bad or the fuel problem has resulted in hard starting that damaged the starter previously. Like Jim said, biodiesel can be a problem. If you have a dirty tank to start with, biodiesel will do a great job dissolving the existing solids and they will deposit throughout your filters and maybe pump and injectors. If Cummins can't polish the fuel you might look into a service that can. This is pretty common around diesel boats. Also, some good ideas after getting this straight is, keep your tank full while parked for a period of time, use a biocide "regularly", burn biodiesel only when you will burn through the tank, carry additional filters and replace them on a frequent basis until problem resolves, AND never let the engine turn over for long periods of time without engine start. This last thing will kill another starter by overheating it.

Here is another Day I part number you might try, Dayco 3936213. I can't vouch for correctness as I simply ran across this number while searching. You are correct to suspect the different timing of the tensioner you tried. If too loose it will not do the job and if too tight it will fatigue and break down the rubber in the tensioner quickly (from experience)! -Jamie

Sure sounds like the nason switch on your park brake control. There are many articles on this, in this and other forums. Not hard to replace switch once you find one. Some are cheap and some expensive for the same part. HR and Monaco both suffered from this poor design in that vintage of rv - too much current through the switch causes the failure. I have attached an article RE the nason switch. I made the mod described in the article and everything now works as it should. Hope this helps. -Jamie nason parking brake switch.pdf

Probably the same as my 2003 8.3 ISC, Cummins 3973819. -Jamie

One on left closely resembles a muffler bearing.

Ken, I agree with above answers, especially Highwayman. Solenoid on starter or cabling to that solenoid would be my troubleshooting starting point. Most likely, your starter is current limited and that explains the intermittent operation. A loose or corroded cable between the battery and the starter solenoid will do exactly what you describe. If you ignore a bad connection on the starter or starter solenoid it could eventually burn through a connection post and force you to replace a part. The ignition switch would be the last item on my troubleshooting checklist.

Dave, you will likely not get the best performance from the existing fixtures and LEDs but that doesn't mean you won't get some "improvement". That said, you need to be aware that most aftermarket LED replacements (and many OEMs) are not legal in most states. Our state enforcement officials have completely rolled over and are not enforcing the laws. I am a physicist who has spent much of my career designing and building optical systems so I have a bit of experience in this area. Most replacement LEDs concentrate on brightness but that is very misleading since the brightness is a function of light color and the wavelengths being measured. Your eyes can't appreciate certain levels of "brightness" if the color is not compatible with a person's eyes, AND that compatibility varies from person to person and with eye age and weather conditions. Have you ever been blinded by incoming LED headlights, especially during a rain storm? That is the danger of simply replacing regular bulbs with LEDs. Chinese manufacturers, where most replacements come from, will claim almost anything. So, yes you might see some improvement from behind the wheel of your vehicle but you might also get run into by another driver who has been blinded by your new LEDs. As you noticed, suppliers like Auto Zone don't understand what they are selling. They aren't alone. I considered replacements at one time and gave up for all of the above reasons. Not a rant, just trying to spread a bit of education.

Just a note since you don't want to travel in northeast. The I95 corridor in South Carolina would be a good place to put an interstate highway! -Jamie

Terry, Just some experience I had so you can be careful. I told my insurance company that I needed a windshield and they agreed to pay. I also advised them who I wanted to install the windshield because not everyone can do it reliably on a motorhome. When the windshield arrived, the truck driver was quick to make his exit and the install shop didn't discover the newly delivered windshield broken until the driver was gone. Because I had recommended the install shop, the insurance company refused to do anything about the broken windshield, not even make an attempt to force the delivery truck company to make good. Since I had no relationship with the delivery company (the insurance company had made all the delivery arrangements) I couldn't get the delivery company to pay any attention to me. I even took the insurance company to the (Virginia) state insurance commission who sided with the insurance company and not me, so I ended up paying for a second windshield out of my pocket. You might relate this story to your insurance company beforehand and save you some heartache. -Jamie