OhReally

Three things... Just to echo what has already been said, NEVER, NEVER go by the manual to determine correct tire pressure for your rig. It will probably be bad for the rig and offer a bad ride. The manufacturer is the only one that knows how his tires behave under load. One more thing, be careful when replacing tires. You can find tires that fit your rig that are actually made for trucks that typically carry loads greater than your rig. Those tires have heavier sidewalls and you will regret the ride difference. Ask your tire supplier or the tire manufacturer if their tires are designed for a Class A RV. And lastly, don't think your rig is porpoising if it lunges down and up once after hitting a bridge joint. Once down and up and then settling for normal ride height is normal for good shocks. -Jamie

Count me as one "What me worry?" Cruise set at 62 to 64 and no problems! Correct setting for ride height and tire pressure made the most difference. -Jamie

Auto body shop or RV collision repair deal with this kind of thing all the time. Take yours to them after you call for an appointment. Also, beware of duct tape. If it's on your paint, it will take paint off when you remove it. Anywhere else, it will leave all of its adhesive on the coach after being sun drenched for a short while. -Jamie

Also looks like you might have some water infiltration. I would do a good inspection for water stains around the old receptacle. -Jamie

jacwjames, good work on your repair but you might want to consider one more possible leak point in your coach. If you have an AC in your bedroom it can produce a very large amount of condensation at times and it just might find its way to where you just repaired. If you run the bedroom AC at a very cold setting on an extremely hot day, you can produce condensation within the AC distribution box and maybe the ductwork. Best to always run bedroom AC on high fan and at minimum cooling to minimize condensation in that area. The high fan will help prevent freeze ups (which will overwhelm the AC's drain capability as they melt) and keep large amounts of condensation from pooling. -jamie

Remember, this is Pennsylvania. When I lived there they wanted me to get a "move in" permit for a house that I just bought. No inspections required, only a permit that amounted to a tax!

Dennis, you should be able to get the original airbag part number from your build sheet. Contact Monaco for the build sheet if you don't have it.

Todd, you should also note whether the "gen set" lamp is lit on the load shed control. The light will come on whenever the generator is supplying power to the coach. This signal comes from the generator on a unique pin located in a gang connector right near the front of the generator. Mine lost this connection and it caused some weird things to happen in the coach. You can disconnect the gang connector at the generator (with generator off of course) clean the connections and reconnect if required.

Bob, if you use the engine (dash) ac on recirculate you can get cooling without letting warm outside air in. Also, I close all vents in the back of the coach and over the slides. That way you will feel the cool air coming from the vents over driver and passenger heads. If you are like me and don't often use the generator, traveling is a great time to exercise it. You probably won't notice any impact to your fuel mileage and it keeps generator in top shape. A generator needs to work regularly under a load to remove accumulated moisture from the generating coils and short spurts of usage while in a campground is typically not enough.

Here is a website that talks about a mod to really fix the problem. Replacing the existing switch with one and the same is a bandaid. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/park-brake-air-pressure-valve-alarm-374632.html

Sounds like the parking brake signal. Your switch is on the bottom of the air brake switch and it goes bad often. Search for that on this or other Monaco/HR forums for fix information.

Bob125, I can't believe you are having so much trouble cooling down when running all three ACs going down the road. I can keep up with heat load on my 40ft Scepter with only the front AC that is sick (new one waiting to be installed). Your ACs should each cool to a minimum twenty degree differential. If they don't then they need some work or replacement.

Bob, look up Rover.com Their dog sitters are local people that sit dogs in their homes. You can meet the sitter beforehand, look at their sitting situation, and then leave your dog with a sitter who will send you updates and pictures of the dog while you're gone. We have used them several times with confidence. -jamie

Bobbyboy, hope this helps a bit. The reason you see the light flashing light or the light comes on intermittently is likely a partially stuck actuator. It does it's job on the turbo when driving conditions demand it. No demand, no vgt function and no error light; intermittent light, intermittent demand. It is possible that the vgt actuator is not moving along it's entire range of motion and that is why you don't always see the error. The demand is satisfied within the current range of motion of the vgt sometimes and therefore an error is not always seen. Here is a link to a YouTube video that may provide some more insight to Cummins vgt problems. This guy screwed up his initial vgt calibration when he worked on his turbocharger, but if yours hasn't been worked on you may simply have a partially stuck movement. Good luck. https://www.google.com/search?q=vgt+actuator&oq=vgt+actuator&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l3.7231j0j4&client=ms-android-motorola-rev2&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#

The reason I suggested starting at the generator is, that is the easiest to get to. With no smoke at exhaust and no generator OR engine starting, I am fairly confident that neither are getting fuel. If this problem has persisted for awhile you may have also killed the engine lift pump. It shouldn't be a ticking sound, more of a hum or vibration. Something in the area of the pickup tubes in the tank is blocked. If you bypass the tank and feed clean diesel directly to the generator and it starts it will be confirmed. Keep in mind that if the generator still refuses to start after bypassing the fuel tank you could still have a blocked generator fuel filter. -jamie

Since engine and generator exhibit same, you should be looking at fuel delivery lines. Engine and generator usually have separate lines and priming devices so I would be suspect of: 1 - Amount of fuel in tank. Generator won't burn fuel from about 1/4 full down. 2 - Something in tank that is blocking pickup into delivery lines. I know you said "clean diesel" but if the problem is on the bottom of the tank you may have missed it. 3 - Fuel filters on both engine and generator. You can check generator by inserting the delivery line into a bucket of clean diesel and then see if it starts. If not, the filter is probably completely blocked which suggests a fuel tank problem. If so, there are several ways to get the tank and fuel cleaned up. Good luck. -Jamie

Hi Batmobile, I have a HR 40' PDT coach with the Norcold 1200 over the furnace AND a mid-coach side door. As you enter the coach the fridge cabinet is on the immediate left and it shares a wall with the shower. There was no room to grow the fridge space side to side and only a small amount down encroaching on the furnace. I looked for residential units for quite awhile and found nothing that fit the space available, so I recently replaced my 1200 cooling unit with a 12vdc compressor from JC Refrigeration and am very pleased. Luckily the Norcold is in very good condition and needed nothing else besides a new thermistor. The old thermistor had shifted, like they often do as they age. BTW, I got rid of that old ice maker as well since it took up significant freezer space and we never trust the water as we move from place to place anyway. -jamie

StillRunning, if you haven't resolved your short wire issue, snip the wires that connect directly to the light assembly, at the old light assembly, and that should give you additional length to connect the new light. Yes, it's not necessarily good to add additional wire connections but for a marker light that draws only a small current you will be okay. Good luck. -jamie

TIA, attached is a Norcold eyebrow reset procedure for a different error code. It has an interesting statement on that failure, "After the second consecutive no cooling fault code, a hardware reset is required to return the refrigerator to service." I suggest you try the reset procedure in the attached also if your unit is still malfunctioning. -Jamie Norcold reset details.pdf

I recently did the same as SteveJ, installed 12volt DC compressor in my 1200. I did the swap myself and it wasn't difficult. Only problem now is we need to let the ice cream sit out to thaw awhile before we can scoop it! I highly recommend the JC Refrigeration compressor swap. -Jamie

How about this hookup. See any issues (lol).

Mike, when I looked on Amazon all I saw was ABS plastic burl. Was yours made from that or actual wood as it looks in pictures? Thanks. -Jamie

Sam, sounds like something turns on with the key and that is your culprit. I would make sure everything (such as dash fans, displays, dash lights, backup camera, probably only things attached to your chassis battery, etc. is turned off or disconnected and then see if fuse blows. If not, then you can start plugging things back in and see if it blows. Be very patient as some of your parasitic draws may not run as soon as you turn the key on. When fuse blows again, the last thing connected is probably the problem, and it may be shorted to ground somewhere. Good luck. -jamie

Joe, I learned the hard way that the manual is incorrect on their listing of the air filter. Luckily I could return the wrong one - the one the manual said to use. Best you look at the pictures of the Fleetguard AH8503 and see if it looks like yours. If so, you cannot open the can and insert a new filter. It is a crimped (non-serviceable) assembly with a filter, enclosure can and entrance and exit ports. -Jamie

Joe, I also suggest you change it. If the monitor hasn't changed much over the time you owned the coach, it is probably faulty. My ISC 350 takes the following filter: Fleetguard AH8503 It measures 23.5" x 10.5" and the can and filter are an assembly and are replaced at once (try Amazon). I don't necessarily agree with general replacement every two years but it certainly can't hurt. A "dusted engine" may result from a bad or no filter and you are then looking at significant turbo and piston/cylinder damage. While you're at it, the monitor should be made to work if it is broken. -Jamie