OhReally

Adam, a battery tender may not provide enough current to charge your house batteries. They are typically used to keep a charged battery charged. The tender may also have lights on but it really isn't doing anything for a deeply discharged battery. Most new battery chargers will not begin to charge on a mostly discharged battery - a safety measure. Not sure about the xantrex if that's what you have. BTW, that 2003 xantrex does work but it is a relatively weak charger/inverter/boat anchor compared to what is available today. Unfortunately it will be difficult to replace it and maintain the gen auto start, etc capabilities your coach once had. Others may have more information on this as I (on my 2003 Sceptre) elected to give up some of the automatic functions to get a better inverter and charger. Also, deeply discharging those house batteries, as you have, will have already damaged your batteries. If it were my coach I would seriously consider swapping your house and start batteries to get maximum house battery capabilities going forward. Cheers, -Jamie

I agree with folks who said toad Brake activation. If you have (or someone before you had) a Roadmaster air brake actuator on their toad then you would have had a wire from a (added) brake switch on your toad that activates this LED.

Marc & Lori, I just finished doing almost the same but I sent arms and base to Spacecoast Plating in Melbourne Florida to have them strip the chrome and return to me to paint. Cost about$100 vs 10X that to re-chrome. I definitely would recommend them as they do many velvacs with this problem. The bolts you refer to on my 2003 coach are stainless steel and have a Phillips head. They came out easily. If yours are rusting/corroding you might try going on the inside of the front cap and grinding them away. You should have no problem if you make the bolt holes bigger as the base is very large and you can reseal after removing bolts. Good luck. -Jamie

You'll notice a tab on the end of any of the Amazon switches. The wire you refer to should simply connect to that tab. Since the complete switch mounts to the door frame through a grounded surface, the wire will ground when the door opens and let's the switch close.

Here you go. -Jamie https://www.amazon.com/XtremeAmazing-Universal-Trunk-Switch-Bonnet/dp/B086P36KB3/ref=asc_df_B086P36KB3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463359003998&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5841417438731325907&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010513&hvtargid=pla-980290354745&psc=1

Greg, I have had issues with some Monaco connectors so before you get too deep in the weeds with this you might want to disconnect the first connector at the rear run panel and bend pins on the pin side so they dig deeper into the corresponding metal on the socket side. Usually a very small bend will fix things. -Jamie

Greg, you may have more than one solenoids in your coach. One may be with the solenoids that apply intake heater power. On my 2003, this solenoid is located in the passenger side rear most compartment under a black plastic cover, but on some models it is located under the bed. If I was troubleshooting this problem, since the engine starts from rear position, I would start at the rear run panel and listen for solenoid clicks to locate them. Also I would investigate the front/rear start switch first to make sure it is working. The front/rear switch probably switches a relay so you might listen for it's location. Also try jumpering the front/rear switch to see if it is failing. Good luck. -Jamie

Definitely Carefree of Colorado. I haven't seen this variation before. Usually the topper doesn't have a complete aluminum cover when rolled up, only a deflector. Yours looks like a cross between Carefree Omega II and Kover II (both obsolete I think). I suggest you contact Stone Vos as they do some 3D printing and may take on this job for you. -Jamie

Don't worry about the brand and model, just take your dimensions to the Throgmartins (also RV'ers), at Stone Vos (http://stonevos.com/) in Florida. They have a choice in materials and I'm sure one of their materials will match your currently installed toppers. -Jamie

Bob, sounds like all good/plausible answers above. Mine occasionally does the same. A couple years ago I installed a wireless remote on my slide outs so I could stand outside, by the slide and watch it come out. Occasionally the slides would move slightly with no hands on the controls or remote. I finally changed the remote frequencies and have had no problems since! Cheers. -Jamie

I am in need of an Instrument Panel (Dash) schematic for a 2003 or thereabouts Scepter. I have some other year Dash Schematics but the differences are in the area that I am troubleshooting. If you have a dash Schematic that you believe might help me please send it and I will try to use them. Many thanks to all and cheers.

If you are looking for a recliner couch it is likely the backs come off to reduce shipping box size. The removal mechanism is simply with a spring clasp that you open to release them. Cheers.

If the cooler water is happening when you connect to the campground pedestal and you have an in-line pressure regulator you could try reducing the incoming water pressure. This will reduce the volume of incoming water and allow it a slightly increased time in the heater. If water temp problem is from your tank you probably can't try this trick.

I recently installed a "UTec" combo lock on my Scepter. Door looks very similar to Cubflyer's but I modified the plastic molded inside part above the inside lock parts. UTec combination allows you to set a combo of 5 to 7 (I think 7 is limit) numbers and then to unlock, punch in as many numbers as you want just as long as the combo is contained, and in correct sequence, in the numbers you punch. This should help with the prying eyes. This lock has several options including Bluetooth and internet opening as well as a unique temporary unlock sequence should you desire to give to someone else to get in. I am very pleased with this locks quality, performance and price (Amazon) as compared to it's competitors. Cheers

First two pics look like oil pressure switch. Some Cummins engines had an oil pressure switch (on/off) to send a positive signal to the ECM when oil pressure existed, as well as an oil pressure analog sensor that sent amount of oil pressure to a dash gauge. This was a retrofit by Cummins and someone may have made a change to your coach to eliminate the switch sender. As for the rest, I can't comment except to say that your Cummins owners manual and Cummins online should have a picture and description to tell you where all your engine sensors are located.

Radar22, just to try and unconfuse things. RobertU may be correct with the pot on the back of the speedometer but not necessarily. Some speedometers have a set of dip switches as they work off of a digital signal and have no pot. When I suggested a "new, dedicated" ground, I meant a new wire from the speedometer directly to the chassis, not necessarily all the way back to the battery. If you simply clean up the ground path to it's original ground buss you may not correct the problem because speedometers are strangely sensitive to poor grounds and the original coach ground buss may have suffered some degradation in its connections over time. In most coaches there exists a daisy chain of ground busses so you can spend a great deal of time getting to and sorting out which one(s) have faulty connections. Yes, this so-called bandaid may be introducing a new ground loop as ChuckB says but, as a Physicist, I'm willing to go out on a limb here and suggest this one additional ground loop, added to already existing ground loops in your coach will not be detrimental, and it may be enough to fix your Wacky Speedometer. Good luck finding a solution.

Speedometer needs a good ground to prevent what you describe. I suggest you create a new, dedicated ground wire for the speedometer.

Bryan, I'm confused. In your initial post it sounded like you said the generator light on the dash switch was out and in your last post it sounds like the dash generator IS working. You should have a light on the generator dash switch as well as a light on the Intellitec panel when the generator is running. The Intellitec light says "GEN SET". If you are missing both of these it is the generator connector and things won't work correctly if missing. If you have the GEN SET light and no switch light your connector is good but your switch bulb is out and you need to replace the switch to get it back working. I have replaced the bad bulbs with an LED on some of mine but it's not a simple task. Also sounds like your pump light is out. Should not be any connection between the two lights failing -Jamie

If you have a Cummins/Onan generator, the connector between the coach and the generator will cause the light failure. This is a 6 to 10 pin connector and, although it has some weather protection, it will get dirty and pins/sockets will corrode or oxidize causing bad connections. The connector is easily seen near the front of the generator when slid out. One pin within this bundle is responsible for the referenced light and a signal to the auto generator start/stop. If the signal (light) isn't working, the auto start/stop won't work either. It's not difficult to disassemble the connector and clean it up but you may also find that one or more pins/sockets in the bundle aren't tíght enough. Some minor bending of the bad socket and some WD-40 or similar can also help. -Jamie

And oh, by the way, some skylights are doubled up with a small gap between them for thermal purposes. Are you sure you didn't remove the inside skylight? -Jamie

My ISC 350 has the large square tank and uses a 7 lb cap (Stant 10228). Whatever you get I would highly recommend a cap with a pressure relief lever. They are typically easier to remove/install and the square plastic tanks become brittle with time. You really don't want to find and replace the tank after you break it installing or removing the cap! -Jamie

So, I didn't get this posted last night... Here is loveseat installed. The opening between cabinets and slide wall is about 74" and the loveseat is about 72". The loveseat is from a "Chesapeake Collection". Sorry, I can't tell you more about the manufacturer, but as you can see, 72 inchers are available. The loveseat has a steel frame under it, just like the RecPro one removed so I used the same brace and bolt mechanism to hold it down. And since the loveseat is located on a raised floor slide I am using some Amazon supplied rollers in the front to take some of the weight when the recliners are used. Here is an installed picture and an Amazon URL for the rollers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQO4UO0/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_JYX8SEAN0D9WA74P4D58 -Jamie

I just went through this and replaced RecPro with dual recliner loveseat. New seat is a dark burgundy leather, about 72" total width (see attached photos). It took a lot of looking to find one that fit but we are very happy with our results. I am not at home as I write this but I will send additional installation pictures as well as manufacturer this evening when I get home. As for RecPro, the plastic upholstery was very cheap and near the end of the second year it all fell apart at once. The interior cushioning moved and left the seat ver uncomfortable as well. RecPro says they have better (pricier) upholstery but once was enough for me. -Jamie

No, washer will typically not drain to low drain. Washer has a pump to extract water from it and that must be winterized separately. On mine, I either add antifreeze to fresh tank, enough to flush it through the washer or disconnect hoses behind washer and then run washer with hoses stuck in antifreeze bottle. Keep in mind that when the washer cycles the antifreeze through it's pump it will dump water and antifreeze into your grey tank so you may need to add more antifreeze to your grey tank or drain it afterwards. -jamie

Like you see in replies from JohnnyDiesel and BradHend, Cummins codes often say "or voltage supplies". That is because working voltages are very easy to monitor for engine conditions. Unfortunately monitored voltages can be influenced by battery voltages that vary due to charging conditions, faulty connections, battery condition, etc. I'm with these guys, if oil pressure, engine temperature, and charging looks good I'd drive it to a repair shop or elsewhere with a weather eye on gauges. If you want to check things out before doing that you could look at and clean all electrical connections supplying power to the ECM. Good luck. -Jamie