Steven P

Thank you.  I haven't seen one of those on my Diplomat.  I'll keep an eye out.  

5 hours ago, Busnut said:

It was the driver side rear run panel. Mini breaker labeled VOLT REG 30 AMP

I'm not familiar w one of those.  Any chance you have a pic? Thank you 

2 hours ago, Paul A. said:

OK. What are all thosse blue items around the sewer dischage elbow/line connection?

I was wondering who would be the one to ask.  I changed out to an 8" hole and needed a way to "seal" it.  I had an extra foam noodle and did that for now.  

37 minutes ago, Bob Jones said:

Nice, Any chance you got a link to those LED strips? My Dad finds his instrument cluster a bit dark and wanted me to put a light in it. Try as I might, I could not find a 'normal' LED strip. Either I searched for the wrong key word, I don't know, but I would appreciate a pointer 🙂

Got em off Amazon. I felt like I'd start fairly inexpensive and go from there.  Pack comes w 4.  If you haven't checked, our O'Reillys has some there too. 

EverBright 30CM 5050 12-SMD DC12V... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MN9XYJ0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you're talking about the dash lights, can the bulbs be replaced w brighter ones?  

Gotcha.  Maybe post a pic of all your switches and someone with similar will be able to help?

I've never liked that I cannot see my clear 90 elbow at night without a flashlight when dumping.  While replacing my stripped water reel gear, I decided to upgrade the lighting.  Removed the original light and added 2 waterproof LED strip lights. One in place of original and other on the bottom of the gray tank.  Now I can see all I want to. Tied into original wiring but made it where I can remove my panel without the wiring being in the way. Pics of new don't seem to show the true brightness and they are not super bright, but plenty bright for the job. oldNew upbottom of gray tank. can see freshwater level and 90 elbow. 

@Paul A. Thanks for the tape idea.  May change it later but for now I like it.

If I'm reading right, the source wires are hot, but the new lights are not working?  I would try reversing those wires and see if the new lights work that way.  If not, hook them to the battery and make sure they work.  I ordered 6 puck lights from Amazon and the firstbwas a dud.  All the others worked.  You can see a bad solder spot.  In my 06 Dip, I have a switch below passenger window for the stepwell lights.  Did you ever have working lights there?  As mentioned above black tends to be pos and white neg in these Monacos for 12v. 

6 hours ago, Busnut said:

I had the light come on after an alternator repair. I changed out the relay for the ALT light. I didn't have any luck with that. I changed out the circuit barker in the rear panel. That fixed the problem.

Which breaker was it?  

Took the old one apart in the coach and took out.  Disassembled the new one outside (shipped in one piece), took inside and re assembled. 

As others said above, mine will do that if I have the generator running and then crank the engine.  If I have the engine running and then crank the genny it doesn't do it so I try to stick to that method.  Turning on headlights or parking lights makes it go away. 

28 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:

You shouldn’t have to do it again.  Almost 4 years after replacing my broken gear with the Delmatoff fix, mine still works great.  

I need to reach out and see if he has a fix for the Shoreline electric cord reel…. Mine hasn’t broken, but it is starting to get wimpy…

Scotty, when we spoke he asked me how my electric reel is working and was surprised to hear it's fine bc they use the same gear.  

When I bought mine, I kept it in storage and turned off the battery switches every time and had no issues that way.  I did not unhook the negative cables, but that sounds like a good idea. 

06 Diplomat. Mine is here. See pic. 

10 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Steve, how did you get the left rear bolt, lag screw out. My reel leaks and I stopped using it. I think those reels were installed on the ceiling, bottom of platform before the platform was installed on the chassis. Here's a picture of how I made access easier plus gained extra storage space. I also put a manual light switch in and moved my water pump up front 

Gary 05 AMB DST

 

I removed the 3 bolts that I had easy access to, leaving the left rear one, them I could pivot the reel housing back giving more room.  That part went smooth.  The reinstall involved a lot of words I won't repeat and a failed attempt at doing the same process in reverse.  What worked was I used my drill and replaced all 3 screws that easy saving the left rear for last.  I found with pulling the hose all the way out I could get my drill in from behind and with some contortion got it done.  Honestly, I hope to never do it again.  But hey, its done now. 

My water reel has never worked due to a stripped gear.  It got worse this year and I ordered a replacement from John Delmatoff (951-315-9135)  he was quick to answer,  paid via PayPal and shipped the next day.  I decided to cut my wet bay panel in the middle as others have done for easier removal. Replaced the gear yesterday and all is well today. Have to drill out 10 rivets and he sends replacements w the gear. I'm gonna make a trim piece to cover my ugly cut and stabilize it some more, but it's actually pretty stable like it is. 

On 12/25/2021 at 8:35 PM, 1nolaguy said:

Thanks Steven P, I read your link and it was very helpful. Did you by chance change your front slideout seals as well and if so did you use the same size seals (Steele on the sides and AP on the top)? Also, did you change the bottom seals and if so which one did you use there?

I have not done my other slides yet, nor the bottom seals.  They seem to be holding up for now. 

Yessir.  I got wipers from Steele Rubber and AP products. https://approducts.net/ for my bedroom slide. They both sent me samples allowing me to get the best blades. You should be able to see my past posts on this site w pics. 

Link: 

Mine have 2 screws holding them down and I removed the covers and vacuumed what I could see but that is very limited.  I suppose with a strong vacuum you could try to close/block off all but one and attach it around the vent trying to suction the whole system?  Maybe an inexpensive fiber optic camera can look around to see if there's stuff in there?  Also, make sure your fan spins freely and is blowing fully at the source.  There could be leaks in the ducts allowing air to escape along the way.  Lots of potentials for low air flow. 

Any chance it could be related to a rear engine bay start switch?  I don't have one but when i was reading your post I was thinking ignition switch til you said you replaced it.  Then I remembered some have a rear engine switch too.  Other than that, I got nothing. 

I like my Amp L Start to keep my chassis batteries charged when on shore power. 

8 hours ago, Tom Wallis said:

To your other point about alternator voltage, those batteries seem to be fully charged. I can't say if that's because the converter charger topped them off or if your alternator did, but they are full.

I have been parked and hooked to shore power for a few weeks now.  I have an Amp L Start to keep my chassis batteries charging while hooked to shore. It keeps them at 13.6V.  

I appreciate all the info from everyone.  I'll look harder for the date code when I'm off work again.  

Retested both chassis batteries just now. These are Duracell AGM 31C w 950 CCA.  I do not know how old they are.  They came w the MH when we bought it 3.5 years ago.  The PO had passed away but we were told they were fairly new.  I know one shop let them run dead when they did some work for me. The pics are the readings from each battery.  The volts look good after being unhooked overnight, but the CCAs don't.  You can see at the top of my tester one batt is NG (not good) and the other is marginal.  Outside temp currently about 39deg.  Thanksgiving one time he was slow to start but did start. That was a cold AM. 

Yea, these pics are from each of my chassis batteries at rest.  I had unhooked the amp L Start for about 2 hours prior.  The volts are good, but I'm concerned w the CCA only being about half of the 950 rated.  I'm gonna check again this am (after some coffee).

Unhooked my chassis batteries today and waited just over 2 hours and ran a test on them.  Not great as long as this tester works well.  I will say I compared it to a tester at advance auto earlier this year on boat batteries and they were the same. Pics attached. I plan on leaving them unhooked and retesting in am.