Steven P

What's doing most of the holding on mine are 4 large brackets held on to the side of the fridge w heavy double sided 3m tape.  Then I have multiple small brackets also attached in various places front and back.  Also in front I have 2 pieces of iron attached to the frame, but inserted into the wheel spacing for added support.  See pics 

Awesome news!  Thank you for sharing!

7 hours ago, Mike Wahl said:

I have a 2018 Jeep Wrangler that I have started researching to set up for flat towing behind our 2001 Signature.  During my research I ran upon the surge braking system built-in to the tow bar by NSA.  Just wondering if anyone has used this and their thoughts on this style system verse an air or electric system.   Also does this system meet the requirements for supplemental braking.  

I tow a 2019 4dr Jeep Wrangler JL and a 1986 Jeep CJ7 with a ready brute elite from NSA. It's the only tow setup I've ever had so I cannot compare to others.  From what I can tell, it works fine when properly adjusted. As far as the legal concern,  I've not looked into that as I feel as long as the braking system is hooked up I have faith it would count as any other system does. Keep in mind, these are light TOADs compared to a full size truck. If I were to tow a full size truck, I'd look at a braking system that uses the MH's air system. 

I did mine. Was changing from 2 12V house batteries to 4 6V batts.  I took pics, but didn't really matter for the house batteries since I was changing them anyway.  Took out the tray, cleaned it well. I used a rust remover called Ospho.  Then repainted w spray truck bedliner from Ace. Put it back in when dry and have been happy since.  

When mine was doing this, I ordered a replacement Nason parking brake switch online and replaced the defective one and that fixed my issue. 

John Delmatoff sold me a gear for my hose reel and the same gear for a shore power reel by Shorline.  The old gear was broken, which you could tell by pressing the retract button and getting noise, but no retracting.  

Mine is at Talin right now for that reason (and others).  They are replacing some of the wood and putting a large plate on this one.  Getting plates all the way around too.  

I'd double check that outlet.  Mine was getting intermittent power but was roasting inside.  Wiggled the plug and it worked, them I took a look. Not a chance I'd wanna take. 

Richard, congrats on the new coach.  Sounds like u went right by me off I10 in AL in all our recent rain.  Glad you got home safely and have stories to share. 

On the gulf side, we stayed at Camp Gulf in Sandestin and liked it a lot. Just spent a weekend there,  but it was great.  Gulf State Park in Gulf Shores, AL is also great and on the gulf, just not in FL. 

When I pulled mine, I used OSPHO rust remover as directed and painted with a truck bed spray paint giving a little more protection. 

@CorinthWest one thing I don't thinknwas mentioned is that the Marinco battery switch in your pic is a known failure issue. One of mine fell apart internally.  You should replace with the blue seas one in the pic below yours IMO. 

When mine was bad, I go a click from the broken gear wheel.  If you press the button and hear nothing, you should check you power to the switch. Could be a bad connection, ground, fuse, etc anywhere in the circuit.  Alternatively you could supply 12v to the motor to see if it works. 

@WilliamGood move. That's makes sense to me if planning on residential.  Yes, I had some mold where the icemaker leaked and I bleached it all and painted w Kilz. Good luck.  Keep us posted 

If you haven't yet, use this website to search dimensions you think can fit for.fridge options.   https://www.ajmadison.com/

When I did mine, I removed all rust and repainted before putting back. 

I've had 2 separate issues where my house batteries didn't charge.  Most recently was the trombetta failed. Luckily I already had a replacement for it.  First was the IRD failed and also never saw enough voltage to open to send the signal to charge the house batts.  Took a little troubleshooting on that and bypassed the 12V source for higher voltage and all working properly again. 

William, I Googled your furnace installation and found this for clearance:  

Emailing Atwood-Furnace-Series-8900-III-LD-Model-8940-Installation-Manual.pdf

12 hours ago, William said:

 

Hi Steven, 

Nice install crafted very well. I am preparing to embark on my own conversion in a couple of days and like you have furnace underneath norcold I've been looking at several videos for resources all have been helpful. My question did you have to drop furnace? if so, how did you manage to line up exhaust leading to the outside cover plate? My only other question what did you do for your power source? I appreciate your time I realize this was last years project but hopefully you can help. Thank you so much

Kind Regards,

Will

Will, I did not have to lower or move my furnace at all.  I lowered the fridge floor to just above the furnace and that gave me the needed clearance.  For the power, I have 2 outlets.  One that uses the inverter and one that is shore or genny power only.  I chose the inverter so I could keep the fridge on driving or boondocking without using the genny.  One thing to note. I believe 2006 was the year they raised the ceilings a few inches which may give me more clearance than you have, but see above post from jacwjames about lowering the furnace.   Here's the link from my original post:  

I replaced my gear last month and John also told me the gear is the same for the power cord reel.  A guy at the park had the power cord issue and John's gear worked for him too.  Just remember to drill out the rivets on the opposite side for the power cord than the water hose. 

Dan, I don't have a good pic of my setup, but the positives in my coach leave the battery and go straight to the battery switches.  I don't think anything else is wired straight to the batteries. That allowed me to shut off mine at the switches for a couple of months and they would be charged.  Now, though, I leave it plugged in when stored to keep the batteries maintained.  

Thank you.  I have nothing like that I've seen on mine. I'll keep an eye out. 

Our Diplomat came w 2 12V deep cycle batteries for the house.   They did the jib we needed to, but when they bit the dust I put 4 6v Trojans in to have more boondocking ability.  Since this is our first coach, I wanted to see what it would've been like stock. 

@96 EVO I am not sure. @Scotty Hutto do you know?  

1 hour ago, Busnut said:

I never would of though it had anything to do with it. I was talking with pwhittle and he suggested changing it out. An wow it was fixed

Any way I could ask you to post a pic of it on your coach?  My drivers rear bay is 110v only.