Steven P

My monitor was bad when I bought my coach. It did numerous wonky things including what you're describing.  I purchased a new monitor from Tim at rvcams.com and all is well.  Mounted w command strips over the existing hole as it is larger.  But, an easy troubleshoot is to stick a small tv on your dash and run RCA cables from the Aladdin to the TV instead of the dash monitor and see if it works. 

I have a Kenwood stereo I installed.  I added a RCA splitter from the rear camera feed and sent 1 leg to the Aladdin and the other to the Kenwood camera input.  I usually keep my TOaD on the Kenwood and RV vitals on the Aladdin. I do not have the ability to see side cameras on the Kenwood, but wasn't going for that personally. 

@Paul A., is it you that have added a fridge, freezer?

Just to add to this discussion.  Ya gotta take into account if your generator has been running or not and factor that in. My Aladdin Jr says I get about 7.8mpg and I've found that to be the case when I've driven a while w no genny running.  But in south AL, it's hot, so it's rare I'm not running my genny.  In other words, fuel in gal at the pump divided by miles driven is not accurate when the genny is running.  But yes, the genny doesn't use tons of fuel, so it can still be close.  

Update:  yesterday I found my rear 2 air dump solenoids in the rear bay w the hydraulic reservoir.  Both seem to be working equally just going by feel and sound.  I did lightly brush all 3 of them to make sure they are clean.  I guess next step is tracing the passenger side air hose to look for kinks or anything.  

Basically, you get a patch of similar material that is larger than the tear and clean the torn seal well and apply that patch kind of like patching a tire.  3m makes some strong rubber bonding glue you can use. I had to use 2 different seals bc my top one needed a longer wiper blade than the sides.  I bonded the corners together 2 or 3 years ago and still holding strong.  Loom back at page 1 in this thread for more details 

@FishAR you can mend the torn seal to buy some time.  I used 2" 3m nonskid tape for my seals and it works pretty good.  Contact Steele Rubber and AP Products and look at what yours compares to and ask for samples.  

On 10/18/2022 at 8:33 AM, jacwjames said:

If you have a helper you might try airing your system up and then have the helper hit the air dump switch and monitor the valves.  You can compare the amount of air coming out of each one. 

Absolutely.  I didn't have one the other day so I wedged the switch up and found the one.  It'd definitely be easier w a helper.  Thanks. 

On 10/16/2022 at 6:18 PM, jacwjames said:

You can try cleaning, one of the exhaust ports may have contamination in it.  Worth a try.

Thanks.  I'll check the rear ones.  Maybe I have a clog there. 

When I dump my air to lower the coach for storage or at a new spot, mine dumps all air from driver's side before the passenger side will dump and settle flat, creating a hard lean to driver's side until the passenger'sside catches up. @Scotty Hutto has the same coach and his dumps equally.  I'm trying to figure out why the difference. I found one air release solenoid in the generator bay on the driver's side that seems to do the dumping. (I have not checked the rear yet).  I looked and cannot find another similar looking solenoid for passenger side.  I have a pic of the one I found.  What am I missing?  Thanks, Steven 

7 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

That's a great comment.  Wow - your friend must have over achieved in the chlorination of his system - sometimes more is not better and the unintended consequences can lead to a very bad performance review.  As the saying goes, dilution is the solution.  So rinse rinse rinse all that chlorine out when the job is done.

I should have mentioned he drives a Tiffin. 😜😜

If you can, put a small TV on the dash and use the video RCA cable that goes to the Aladdin and run it to the TV.  If it works,  your screen is out.  That's how I determined mine was bad.  I agree,  Tim at rvcams.com is great.  Call and ask for Tim and tell him I mentioned him to you. 

I wasn't aware of the fix so I took mine to a local glass shop and they replaced it w new.  It took them 3 times...first had a sticker bw panes, 2nd had a big thumbprint in wasn't happy with.  3rd time was a charm and been great since.  Cost about $130 4 yrs ago. 

Just remember to thoroughly rinse all bleach out before your wife washes her hair.  Luckily my friend's marriage is still going strong after that. 😆

I'll share me experience here.  I was having trouble w my GFCI tripping and it is in the master bath.  I have a residential fridge.  I first replaced w a GFCI from HOme Depot and it still happened.  Then I replaced w a different one, Eaton I think and much better.  However, I didn't like the fact my fridge was on the GFCI.  So I traced all outlets and made a diagram.  I had the fridge and maybe 3 others on one circuit. So I moved that to the hot side of the GFCI and if my GFCi trips, I don't lose power to that circuit (or my fridge).

@Guardian74 i highly recommend Chris and his team.  Great people and great work.  We did a combo family Disney trip there.  Left the coach w them for the week while we had a family Disney vacation. They are only about 1.5 hours from Disney.  But many people stay in their coach on-site at Chris's shop. 

12 hours ago, ph1386 said:

Can anyone tell me if I need to hyperextended my slide to replace slide seal?

I believe I had mine almost fully extended maybe about 4 or so inches short of being fully out.  I had a double bulb wiper blade.

I should also mention Steele Rubber has good videos on their website.  I don't know why it's making me repost the whole thing again. 

1 hour ago, ph1386 said:

Can anyone tell me if I need to hyperextended my slide to replace slide seal?

I believe I had mine almost fully extended maybe about 4 or so inches short of being fully out.  I had a double bulb wiper blade. 

@Ray Davis Chris knows his stuff so I'm sure that 3M is a great product. However, when I mended 2 different size wiper blades together I used Loctite 495 per his tech, Dustin's recommendation.  That was almost 2.5 years ago and still holding strong. 

@throgmartin. At least you admitted I'm right!   That's step 1!   Let me know when you're ready for step 2!  BTW, when I neuter you, it's not reversible!  🤣🤣

If you haven't fixed it yet, is it just torn in 1 place and the rest is there (can't tell in pic) then you could try mending it w a 3M adhesive and a patch of a similar material.  Won't last as long as new, but may can buy you some time. 

I don't have that problem, but I'd start with swapping out the switches or testing the switches.  If they aren't the issue, then there's a wiring issue or relay (as you said) or the slide motor itself.  Frustrating for sure, I bet.  Good luck. 

@nvrtoofast that could be the camera itself,  a wire along the way, or a connection.  Check w Tim Lazaroe at rvcams.com. He can be a huge help.  If able, you may can wiggle your wires in the dash and see if it comes back.  Works w mine.  I replaced my camera and have a much better pic and was just a couple hundred dollars and well worth it.  

Steven

I agree w @Scotty Hutto in that my 06 Dip w Aladdin Jr does not have a reset switch.   That pic is of the keyless entry by Trimark. What's the Aladdin doing?

On 9/1/2022 at 6:53 AM, throgmartin said:

Kind of reminds me of an old Amish farmer in Elkhart who had a barn filled with new Monaco factory parts. He bought them all at auction. People would show up looking for a part and he would hand them a lantern and escort them into the barn to find the part they wanted.

Makes me think of a joke...An rv owner and an Amish guy walk into a barn....

But I can't figure out anymore of it.  Lol