Steven P

Hey Dick. Welcome on. I remember your post on the FB page.  Lots of great info and members in both places.  A couple of things I'd add to what the others have said.  My dash trans gauge has never worked. But I can see the temp on my Aladdin display (I don't think yours has that).  I never checked the back of my gauge like @throgmartin suggested so that's my next step.  

One place less than 2 hours from you is Talin RV. http://talinrv.com/  Chris Throgmartin is the owner.  They are fantastic and super knowledgeable. Many of us have used his shop, myself included and highly recommend him. 

For the awning, check all wire connections too.  May just be some corroded wires. 

I did a quick search on your MH online and found videos of some for sale. You may find more info on some of those, like where is that slide out switch. 

And I found a brochure on one. See below. 

Good luck and have fun!

Almost forgot.  Sounds like you've got the 18 wheelers figured out, but there's 2 pushes (at least for me) when they pass.  Right when they get to your tail and again as they pass the front window.  I tend to steer into them at those 2 moments to go against that push. 

brochure.pdf

@Dick Robertscongrats!  Sounds like you've got a great start.  W your upcoming permanent road trip,  I'd focus on making it road safe, changing all fluids in engine and genny for a new baseline, fixing that air leak, etc..  other stuff you can work on later. Good chance those batteries are shot so best to test them once fully charged, etc..  I had an air leak I could hear, came from front tank air fittings, but my brake test passed well.  I replaced the fittings and that fixed that.  I have always had a slow leak but that doesn't bother me. 

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

OUTSTANDING.  

I also see the telltale, I THINK, marks of someone that removed the wet bay panel the "red neck way".  Had two friends that had 2009 Camelots.  BOTH installed SeeLevel Gages and sent me (as well as posted here many years ago) the pictures.  Both TOTALLY stripped off all the hardware and pulled out the screws.

The first is a very meticulous individual and likes to take things apart....and he huffed and puffed for an hour or so.  He was working in an enclosed area of a competitive team.  His son was the "HEAD ENGINEER" or "Crew Chief" if it were a NASCAR team.  He is an MIT Grad with a MBA from Pitt.  Not exactly John Redneck from Podunk, USA.  He came over and said.  Dad, how's it going?  NOT WELL....You gotta saber saw?   Son responded...."Yes, can I look at it?  Sure.....yank the ))(*)(* thing out.....LOL"  Son looked at it, studied the situation and where it was binding.  Put his hands on it in two places and bent it like a pretzel and yanked it out.  It DID NOT BREAK.....

NOW....Maybe I should have pointed out that my buddy had added an exterior Microwave vent that he ordered the hood from Tiffen as he liked that design....installed it and had to use a hole saw and then got Sherwin William to custom mix a can of spray to match the exterior and then sprayed it so that it looked factory.  He also gutted the area above his Microwave and bought a chilled wine cooler that would fit in and then had to cut the cabinet and had selected that one since the flange would cover up the saw cut.....and snaked the electric to the Microwave.  So he was not exactly a hammer fabricator.  BUT, his son was a bit bigger and younger and was rested and used brute force....

The other friend just cut his in half after 2 hours of frustration.....and then DID buy a piece of 1" Aluminum strap (think an aluminum yard stick and painted it and used pop rivets and it was a linear mending plate.  He DID spray it white after he drilled the holes in the mending plate and used white coated 1/8" pop rivets.

I LIKE YOUR WHITE GORILLA TAPE....and that would have been my solution with MAYBE a rear mounted mending plate.  

AWESOME LIGHT CONVERSION.  If I lose one of Bedroom lights, I might steal one from the Bay and LED it....

I VOTE FOR THIS!!!!

Thanks Tom!  I'm flattered knowing your expertise in motorhomes.  This was not my original idea, but I like it. A lot easier to get back there if needed and I don't have to remove everything to do it.  I bent the piece one time to get behind it and it was a pain so the cut made the most sense.  The gorilla tape was recommended on this forum. Originally I was gonna have a plate up, but then you still have to remove the screws, etc... so I've been testing the tape.  Held well for about a year I'd say.  

@Bruce S those are bright!  Nice!

Personally, I got tired of the dim lighting and wired 2 LED strips in place.  Now I can see all without a flashlight.  One of my favorite easy mods. 

At the coldest temp my coach has seen this winter, I had a small amt of coolant under the Radiator (it had not been running).  I've kept an eye on it and none since, but it has not sat outside in the 20s again.  I'm hoping mine was just not used to the cold and had some "shrinkage" somewhere. 😅

@Bruce S I believe the OPs chassis batteries are not the issue.  House batteries are dead and genny won't run. 

One question is, where is it located.  Maybe a nearby member could spare some time if able to look with you?

I agree.  I wouldn't want to buy without knowing what works and what doesn't.  No place to plug in nearby?  Is there a park you can offer to pay for 1 night and hook up, even stay in if desired?  Without further knowledge of what works and what doesn't,  if you really want it, I'd come off the price a lot.  Be prepared for new house batteries no matter what as they sound shot to me. Is there a battery boost button by the drivers seat?  W the engine running, you can press and hold for a minute and try the genny and repeat til it cranks, assuming it works.  Also, I may be wrong, but the wiring from the coach to the chassis batteries looks wrong to me...but that one may be different.  A lot of unknowns here.  Maybe you pay for a RV shop to go through it.  I did that, saved me $15k. 

@jbb5716. Great!   They are helpful people for sure. 

Steven

For the outside door, I followed others advice and used 1" foam board and garage weatherstripping.  I added a handle w fender washers.  I used eternabond tape over the vent holes. 

@Barry W here ya go. And the link to my post about it 

Mine will do this at times.  I've noticed it's more common when I first run the genny so the Magnum is in bulk charging at this time. Also, in cold weather my house batteries charge at a higher rate.  I have an Amp L Start connected and feel that is why what the house batteries are doing is relevant. 

Lol'd all the way through that one!  Loved the people posting F

As I mentioned before, check w Tim at rvcams.com.  He knows his stuff and that's where I got my replacement monitor from.  

I only have 1 Aladdin monitor so I'm not sure how this applies to you, but I was able to troubleshoot using a small TV w RCA inputs on the back.  That proved my Weldex monitor was bad. 

Tim at rvcams.com is very knowledgeable and easy to talk to on the phone w help troubleshooting these too.  You may try reaching out to him. 

Steven

I've had the same issue w my rear furnace since I bought the coach.  We have very little cold weather usage so I haven't pursued it very far.  I did find the sail switch to be failing 2 years ago and fixed that.  After that it would light and blow luke warm air which was better than none.  Last winter I couldn't get it to stay lit.  It would ignite and give warm exhaust 3 times then the flashing lights indicate ignition lockout fault.  That's as far as I've gotten.  @Coach J if you look at the furnace from the outside, there is an led light that flashes giving a code.  See what you get there. 

Thank you for your service!!

My plastic liner was removable.  After prepping and painting all the metal, I didn't like the rust stains on my liner and wanted a cleaner look so I sprayed mine.  Mine is coated in Ace hardware spray on bedliner. 

I went with Trojan t105 AGM a couple years ago.  I wanted AGM bc I still work a lot and wanted as little maintenance and as much peace of mind  as possible.  I have really liked them.  You will need to adjust your inverter settings. Also, I don't boondock a lot. 

Just a thought if you like having a remote in the bedroom.  Many new receivers have remotes.  Mine will work from the bedroom as long as there's a clear line of sight.  Depending on your use, your phone will do a lot thru Bluetooth. 

Jim,

I'm sorry but I cannot open the pdf.  Can you post a picture of the remote in the coach? And the radio?

I went w the Dometic Penguins that were similar to the originals. I called PPL motor homes when they had a sale and gave them my existing model numbers and they helped me. 

Got an email announcing $100 off sale on Soft start rvs.  I had one of these before and loved the fact I could run an AC on 20A in storage without running my generator.  I put 2 new heat pumps in and forgot to salvage it. Oops. 

https://www.softstartrv.com/christmas/

@rdetter5009 in college I had a truck w a Viper alarm.  If you pushed on the truck enough, like a hard whack or shove, or even a loud truck going by w glass packs, it would set off the alarm.  Sounds like you have an alarm system to me and the motion sensor is working.  I believe you could adjust the sensitivity but you need to find the brain.  I guess there's no siren? Or horn honk?  I believe there was a "warning" first like you describe if the insult was not enough to make the alarm sound.  https://www.viper.com/

 @Scotty Huttoand I both have 2006 Diplomats which are the first year w a higher ceiling I believe.  We have a furnace below our fridges and had room by lowering the platform.  The furnace specs require minimum clearance above them for us. I studied my clearance before I purchased my fridge.  Use the Ajmadison.com website.  You can do this.