Steven P

@Bill R yes, my fog lights are active w the low beams and off w the hi beams.  These lights are labeled "for off road use only" however i didnt find DOT # on the OEM foglights.  They definitely help when "offroading" 😉.

@amphi_sc glad you found it and they ate mostly making it right.  I'm curious as to why you had a new rim installed 2 years ago? What was wrong w the previous one?

Another suggestion is to remove the inside cover and filter and turn the fan on and watch the ceiling fabric, liner, etc...I had at least 60% blockage from all that ceiling material.  It wasn't obvious when not running but would suck into the ducts when the fan ran.  I removed the excess and improved air flow a lot. 

@Scotty Hutto is MS still in the 1987 MS highway project?  🤣🤣

You have an inside view camera?  It sounds like either your rear camera is out or has a bad connection.  Find all the connections and unhook and clean them and hook them up.  If you can have someone watch the monitor while you do it that could help if there's a short somewhere.  You should be able to get in the dash and check those connections lifting that access port just in front of the steering wheel.  Safely on a ladder, you can remove the rear camera and check the connection there too. 

I've had these Hella fog lights bookmarked for a while. Finally ordered and installed them.  Note, they are off road use only so I plan to use them whilst off-roading. Much brighter than the OEM fog lights.  I don't have pics from the cockpit but we saw many deer last night.  When I got back on the road, no one flashed me that they were too bright.  So far, I'm happy w the purchase.  I had to lower the original brackets and put a spacer in to make them work and they are upside down, but Hella says that makes no difference. 2nd pic has new on drivers side.  They appear brighter in the pics, but they aren't blinding.  No relays needed, just spliced into existing wires. 

@Bill R yes, but I'm pretty certain the PO put it in.  Right now it's not working due to little use.  Probably gonna just remove it. 

I don't have the answer to that question,  but I tow a 2022 Gladiator w electric steering and do not have a charge line and have not had any issues.  I use a Ready Brute Elite towbar. Also towed a 2018 Wrangler w same steering and no charge line. Just FYI. 

Here's a list of my wiring in my 06 Dip.  Yours may not be the same, but it may help.  I swapped the fridge line to the supply line on the GFCi so if it tripped,  we wouldn't lose our beer....er food. 

Can you post pics of what your bay looks like and what the fuse panels look like?  That may help someone determine if theirs is close before posting.  Have you checked your manual for a diagram?

Just did a quick search and found your manual.  Pg 356

https://www.holidayrambler.com/owners-manuals/

Nice woodwork on that front TV cabinet. No plugs is right!  I'm not sure how my rear TV came as the PO had replaced it, however, I wanted a bigger TV in bedroom and made a hinged door and mounted the new TV on the door and it latches w 2 window latches for a tight close.  Gave me extra storage behind the TV. It's not in our way and tilts down for easier viewing. 

They've covered the back access above.  My front has wood plugs hiding screws.  That opening at the top of yours used to be at the bottom of mine. I had to remove the plugs and remove screws them the cover comes out.  It's possible your front cover could have similar snap in latches like the back panel.  This is the best pic I have and I highlighted (in red) where the plugs are. 

My last slow leaking tire was due to a leaking o ring in a valve extender.  Check those closely if you have them. 

Not sure if this is related to your issue, but your battery disconnect switches are known for failing and possible fires.  Most of us have replaced w Blue Seas disconnects similar to the pic below. When I did, one of mine was ok, but the other fell apart and was burnt inside. 

I found my invoice and it looks like rvcams,com doesn't offer the same camera currently.  A quick search found this:  https://www.atvresearch.com/WDRV-7063C.aspx

That is the model replaced mine with. 

Steven

3 hours ago, myrontruex said:

Good eyes Steven,

Not 100% clear on your batteries. Your previous owner had two 12 volt batteries in place of where four 6 volters previously lived?

That is possible. Living on shoreline a person really does not need a load of heavy batteries to get by with. 

Yes, he had 2 12V flooded batteries wired properly (parallel?) for 12V output.  I never got to talk to him as he had passed away before we bought the coach.  But it seems they used the genny a lot and likely rarely boondocked.  I went back to 4 6V AGM when I changed. 

Yall are way above my head w this post, but I have a question. In the original post, it states 4 12V AGM house batteries.  Is that correct or should it be 4 6V?  Would that make a difference in this situation?  The PO of my coach had 2 12V batteries and when 1 went bad, I had numerous issues until I replaced the batteries (w 4 6V AGM).  However, my Magnum charger still showed charging on the remote panel even w the bad batteries.  I don't think this is relevant since it will charge on genny power, but asking for a friend. 😀

When mine did that, I replaced the headlight switch and they worked afterwards. 

I've had Ryobi tools for some time.  I have used the hand held compressors to top mine off. They have a trigger and I'd set the desired pressure, place wife's hair tie around the trigger and go do other things for a minute and come back.  I blew up 2 of those and then purchased their next better model and have not blown it up, yet. I keep a pancake compressor where I store it and use it first if needed.  

I've had a Viair compressor on my wish list for some time and am glad I haven't bought one after reading above.  Has anyone used the 120V w better results?  

I've replaced my monitor and rear camera using rvcams.com.  give them a call and ask for Tim. Very helpful people!

1 hour ago, saflyer said:

What is confusing is after one fill a few miles down the road there was fuel all over my toad’s right side but that didn’t happen after the first refuel. For that matter the first time I actually overfilled to the point of getting some on the ground. But none on the toad after a long drive. Like I have said there are a lot of confounding points in this issue. My trip to Texas in February should give a lot better data.

I'd bet you may have made a lot more left turns on that trip or left curves causing fuel to move to the passenger side and slosh out easier.  Maybe other trips were straighter or more right curves?  Who knows?

21 hours ago, saflyer said:

Mea culpa time, maybe. After fueling yesterday I moved the coach a few feet to a spot where it tilted a little to the right. Got out to find fuel pouring out of the right hand side. I quickly opened the fueling door to find the tank cap off and hanging from its lanyard. In most cases I fuel on the left side almost always but I guess I fueled on the right side in June which was the last time before the new tires. 
Now this doesn’t necessarily explain all of the mileage loss but it does explain some, possibly. Confounding factors: (1) I found the right side of my toad covered in fuel after one but only one refueling. (2) I would think after the loss of a few gallons fuel would no longer come out the open fill line. I did check for leaks multiple times and found no evidence of any. 
I won’t have a chance to do another mileage test until our next trip in February. Will update then.

Ed      
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken.     
 

That happened to me once before.  I recall noting the fuel mileage loss. The diesel smell after refueling grabbed my attention and made me check the other door.  In my case, I had opened it to add a fuel additive and forgot to cap it.  Lesson learned. 

11 hours ago, Bill R said:

@Steven P You should have a crankcase breather with a drain tube back to the crankcase and blowby tube that runs down and exits by the starter.  @96 EVO is correct that our year 400ISL engines do not have the filters though.  See image below.  Number 6 points to the crankcase breather on top of the engine.

Thanks Bill!  So, to confirm, there's no filter so no preventative maintenance for the breather?  May I ask the source for the diagram you shared?  Thanks!

Steven 

@96 EVO gotcha.  Thanks. 

On 10/11/2023 at 8:05 PM, 96 EVO said:

I replaced my crankcase breather filter at 55,000mi, and it was almost as clean as the new filter I replaced it with. This was on the 400hp ISL.

I have a 400 ISL too.  Where is the crankcase breather? Do you have a part #? Source?  Thank you.