Bruce S

I would do whatever you recommend to your coach. We all have to make our own choices and decisions, then live with the consequences. However, what you are recommending is fundamentally incorrect for an RV. Richard, I'm sorry if my statement seems infamatory to you. Not my intent. Bruce, Maybe we are saying the same thing....maybe NOT. The insulation around the Norcold and the Dometic is to prevent the heat from the burner as well as the CO2 potential from getting inside the MH's interior. The issue with the NEWER, Energy Star appliances is that the Feds and the Manufacturers changed the "RULES". USED to be that one could take any residential appliance and put it in an unheated garage or on the back porch or wherever. NOT ANY MORE. There is a much NARROWER tolerance. Tom, Thanks for your response. Maybe I should have been clearer in my statement. The waste heat removed from the fridge interior has to go somewhere. If you seal up the old vents from the outside then you need to provide an alternate route for it which would then be the RV interior. I have seen different model newer coaches where this was not readily apparent. If this heat is released into an RV interior where the AC units are already maxed out due to the weather then I suppose the owners would have a small problem. The fridge installers don't care about that. Not their concern. They probably also don't likely mention that the coils need to be occasionally cleaned, moreso if you travel with pets which many RVers do. If the exterior lower vent is permanently sealed then I would imagine you would have to pull the fridge out in order to clean the unit which not too many people would relish including me. I do understand the reasons for the existing ventilation of an ammonia system and I fully comprehend your point the new AC fridges have cold weather issues and that an all weather unit may not even fit. Regardless, new major AC appliances are not supported for more than 10 years anymore before electronic components are no longer available for purchase (which makes the appliance a piece of scrap metal). Add in that our RV's travel down some bumpy roads and you shorten their lifespan even more. We still use our Norcold unit which I won't be changing until I deem it no longer safe or reliable but I do understand what many other's concerns are in regards to these issues. The current heat removal thread is just another obstacle to consider. Just my two cents worth. Your mileage may vary... 🙂

BUT, on a Res Refer, you MUST close off (insulate) the roof vent and/or the access vent covers. Also any louvers in the frame (not the vent cover) must be sealed also. As a retired stationary engineer I respectfully do not agree with your statement. The heat from the refrigerator compartment must be released to the exterior or the unit will fail quickly and your food spoiled. If you look at a unit in a stick home you will see a 2" gap all around the fridge to allow the compressed refrigerant's heat to dissipate. All refrigerators are merely heat transports, the same as a HVAC unit.

This remote also controls the driver's side awning but you have to select it via the middle button. You will see 4 red LED's below the buttons and each time you depress the center button a different LED will flash, from one to four followed by all lights flashing. Your Girard is likely the first LED. If you select the second LED then the next awning will operate from the up/down buttons. If you have 3 or 4 motorized awnings they will work in a similar fashion until all LED's are flashing then they would all work together. If you press the middle button again you cycle around to the first awning in a continuous loop. The middle button also stops the awning's travel if it is in motion.

Our 03 Sig used to feed the Aladdin display to the in dash Panasonic stereo and both the front and rear TV's. There was a video signal box in the dash which forwarded the display. When our Panasonic display failed I rewired the Aladdin display to the dash Sony backup camera display via an adapter, removing this box. Your mileage may vary...

We had similar problems some years back when we purchased our coach. We had upgraded our earlier 98 Signature coach with a SeeLevel system which for us was better than nothing but still had issues if the wiring was near any other wires which then electrically interfered giving a false signal to the receiver. The original system was obsolete with no parts available which forced us to change and I was considering another SeeLevel unit until I investgated the new problem. Our 03 Sig has the Aladdin sensors which I tried to calibrate but then found the black tank sensor was not only crudded over but also had a hole in it shorting the signal. We ordered new sensors and only replaced the waste tank ones since I determined the fresh water tank sensor was good. We haven't had any further issues in 7 years years now but I do regularly flush the black tank which seems to make a difference. Note: When we purchased our Aladdin sensors, the price (unbeknownst to me) was for a set of 3 and not for a single sensor. I don't know if that is still the same.

If you look at my photo below, the black/white cover is a touch pad that degrades with use. If you look closely at the "off" and "air" buttons you will see holes. There were other issues but once this stick on pad was replaced all our issues melted away. We happened to be at a rally where HWH had a booth. The rep had these pads at the booth since apparently they are wear items. I'm not even sure if he even charged me for the pad. Hope this helps.

This may sound silly but are you sure that the control board itself is defective? In our coach the touch pad had become erratic leading me to wonder the same question. In the end all we needed was a new touch pad insert which was readily available from HWH. We haven't had an issue since then.

Thank you Richard. Much appreciated. Like you, I am very pleased with our toilet so far and I am pretty sure the previous owners didn't have any issues. When we had our problem we were about 2000 miles from home and I was not inclined to change it out on the fly... and we did not always have good internet access for research. At least it failed open and not closed... I will contact Paul should the need arise. 🙂

We too have a Sealand Magnum Opus which we have been pleased with however... we had an issue back in the fall where we had it fail in the open position. We eventually found it merely needed resetting which was found in an online manual. I had thought it needed a new card or flapper but was unpleasantly surprised no parts were available for it as it is an obsolete model (in our case 20yrs old). It is a quality toilet and I don't look forward to eventually replacing it due to the parts issue.

Apparently the joystick itself is readily available. It is a Grayhill 04A-K01 or Alladin GH7454. You can Google it, but not only eBay but Digikey/Mouser/NW RV have these items under the Grayhill number. You must solder the joystick to the board however. Please see any of the links below for details... https://www.ebay.com/itm/225737183143 https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/grayhill-inc/04A-K01/2138042 https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Grayhill/04A-K01?qs=ls7QRyWmRk6VeZ5XNPG2Qg%3D%3D

Any idea on where to get just the arrow button? We had the dash one break off the tabs, probably due to age... Thanks, Bruce

I have had 2 Intellitec boards rebuilt successfully. Turnaround time was about 2 weeks. Before sending any card in for repair I talked to the tech involved and he confirmed my suspicions. In my case there was no alternative as our coach would have become a set piece otherwise. Recommended.

We have had considerable issues with AC appliances in getting parts. Apparently most, if not all manufacturers, are only keeping parts for 10 years. Once your appliance reaches this milestone good luck getting anything electronic for it. You may get hardware for a longer period. We have trashed our GE laundry equipment when this happened in the last 2 years. Equipment that otherwise was still in good working condition. I am not happy. Be advised...

Yes, I tried starting from both locations while watching the status LED's. There was no response. I did finally get the engine to start from the front while sitting in a Walmart parking lot and did not shut it down again until the coach was back home in the garage (we were about 6 hours from home at that time). That was when I removed the card for servicing. Your question had already occurred to me which might have sent me in another direction had the engine started from the rear. Interestingly, we had shut the engine down twice and restarted same in the previous hour for fueling and for going through Canada customs. I was praying it didn't die in either location...lol.

This is what a individual wheel weight scale looks like... The vendor we dealt with had 4 of these scales which were positioned ahead of our wheels and then we drove on top of them. He had to weigh our tag axle separately...