amphi_sc

I looked at the Roadmaster tire carrier and saw it would not clear on my coach, so I welded up my own. Slip an extension handle into the top, pull the spring loaded locking pin and it pivots to either side for access to the engine bay. The U clamps take the wiggle play out of the receiver joints. I still need to relocate and light my license plate. Pull a couple of hitch pins and it will separate for easy removal.

Just speculation here... What about placing a new 40350 or equivalent upstream from the existing 40250, internally jumping shore input on the 40250 contactor directly to the 40250 output bypassing the internal contactor. Wouldn't the existing logic board in the 40250 be able to display the now always "shore" input on the Aladdin as before? When the new upstream ATS switched to generator the old 40250 would still show it as "shore" but you could read the amps/volts on the Aladdin. Effectively the old 40250 provides the Aladdin interface but NO protection at all as the contractor would be by-passed. Just speculation. BTW my 40250 always reads the voltage on leg 2 as 2-3 volts higher than reality and Southside could not find a way to recalibrate the actual logic board my unit had (which was a different layout/design/revision level from what they thought it should have had.)

General update: Having tried resetting the cpu, killing all power to the CPU closet, toggle salesman switch, disconnected batteries, loosening and retightening all hot wires to the modules, all lugs on the circuit breakers on the closet power bus, unplugging and replugging all edge connectors on the boards in the cpu closet, loosening and retightening all the ground screws I could manage to loosen (some were so tight I couldn't budge them), unplugging keypads ( and where a circuit had multiple keypads to control that set, unplugging the other keypad leaving one keypad to turn that set on ... and then trying the keypads unplugged or replugged it n.tjr alternate test). I then decided to unplug and replug every G4 light. For a couple of days I thought that solved it until last night when I turned on another LR ceiling set while DW headed into the BR and turned the normal ones on there. It was just s random act of us doing our own thing at the moment but that caused the lights to go out in a sequence. I think by board module but don't recall it having timing like a master ON sequence. (Remember I haven't found the right holding of the master off switch to turn them off in a sequence ... master off turns them all off at once, as well as changing the keypad backlighting, whereas all on does turn them on in a sequence.) However today the lights have been behaving properly. So in some ways it is a step forward in that they aren't going off as much, but a step backward in that I can no longer repeat the problem at will When I took all the ceiling light discs out (actually dimmable LED discs that replaced all the old halogens 5,6, or 7 years ago ... I haven't looked through my old credit card statements to find exactly when I bought them) we also cleaned the glass lenses so very likely the LED discs might have been reinstalled in a different ceiling location. However other than the closet + driver/passenger overhead lights, the other circuits have been used the last few days without the definitive repeatable {and frustrating) self turn off problem other than ONCE last night. So maybe the problem is related to a dusty G4 pin connection in the ceiling socket?? Or maybe one of the LED discs that is likely in a different socket now? But then again I experienced the self turn off last night but not tonight ( and didn't find a magic sequence to repeat it now whereas earlier before I unplugged all the LED discs it was very predictable and repeatable). Anyway I'm going to keep monitoring it. I'm also considering running a new 14 ga ground wire from the closet bus bar through the floor to the bus bar on the upper driver's side engine bay, and from there to another new clear frame connection. Also there are 5 old style seldom used filament bulbs I haven't removed the shades to twist those bayonet bases, and I haven't yet taken the bathroom ceiling fixtures off the ceiling to replug the 4 LED strips that replaced the old florescent tubes (but there is no old ballast up there in the ceiling ). I think the problem has to be related to introduced noise from some place. I'll update again in a few days. And if not solved in a couple of weeks will head to Atlanta. Thanks guys.

I owe an update on this. Whereas I''ve only used holding the master off to enable/disable the backlighting of the keypads it will turn All the lights on in what appears to be all lights on one board then all lights on the next board and finally all lights on the third board. However all lights off appear to be simultaneously all off ... i.e. not board by board.

What's the labelling for the circuit breakers? Every other breaker position will be on leg 1 and the other alternating ones on leg 2. So you put your box back together...black wire on the upper terminal of the double 50 amp breaker, black/red on the other terminal. Thus the single breaker position immediately below the black/red wire that has the 2 20 amp breakers on that one single breaker position will be on the leg powered by the black leg. The next lower breaker (hard to read? A 30 amp single??) will be powered by the black/red leg. The bottom 20 amp single powered by the black leg. Now read the labels on the breakers and verify those circuits are indeed powered. It is possible both your AC's are unbalanced on the same leg, but easy enough to verify by the position of those breakers in the panel. Do you follow what I'm saying to verify the loads are indeed being powered by which leg by checking the labels vs position in the box? It could just be a monitoring display "problem". Easy enough to verify the other breakers are indeed powered with volt meter set to appropriate AC range and "red" probe on breaker output terminal and black probe on the box common bus that has all the white neutral wires connected. Do you have a sub panel or are your microwave and outlets powered by and protected by breakers on the inverter? And thus not labeled in the main box?

Looking at his picture I wonder what the Black w/white stripe wire on the bottom lug is feeding? The top lug has no wire attached so that bus lug is not passing power to anything. Is that Black w/white stripe wire feeding a sub breaker box for a 120v washer - dryer combination? Or to a single in inverter? (I.e. where does your inverter/ charger get its power?) On my coach, power likewise comes in thru the double breaker to power the bus bars which in turn powers the other breakers AND the top & bottom lugs which feed 240v to my 240v dryer sub panel which has the breakers feeding the dryer. The inverter/charger has two breakers feeding it power from box via 10 ga wire. And my inverter then powers another adjacent sub panel for the sockets, fridge, TV, microwave, etc... I'm not getting a clear understanding of your particular electrical setup What's the underlying problem you are trying to solve? Is it that your Aladdin display shows a leg as off? When in fact all circuits work fine? Is your transfer switch feeding the Aladdin display? If so it could be one of the monitor wires in the transfer switch is disconnected from the output side of the transfer switch thus the Aladdin doesn't see power on that one leg even though power is indeed on that leg.

It would be worth a try. You busy around the week of Oct 9th? We're headed South East to Pigeon Forge however presently in South Dakota taking our time... Atlanta is close enough after TN. Thanks, Al

On my system holding master off disables or enables the full time backlighting of the key pads. I've had the back lighting disabled and still problems. It is enabled at the moment so I can find the pads at night. Sequence doesn't seem to be predictable as first thought and it happens on three boards. Watch the video with one light circuit each on boards B D and G. These are dimmable boards. Also note that non light functions such as water pump, aqua hot electric or diesel work, aqua hot radiator blower fans (even the three speed kitchen one) 100% with no problems. Slide in/out and window awnings are fine as is generator start / stop. For now I turn on three lights circuits on board B (main ceiling, main living room overhead (over couches and table), and the ceiling rope for a few minutes and then I can go down to just the main ceiling and they stay on. If I only turn on the main ceiling it goes off. Many times main ceiling on plus bathroom ceiling causes bathroom to go off (as seen in the video). I've replugged most light keypads. Interesting in that if I turn main ceiling on and unplug that keypad the ceiling will go off after a while anyway so I think that would eliminate "noise" from that keypad sending a random "off" command. Same with the bathroom ceiling when main living room ceiling is on. The bedroom ceiling lights seldom have a problem but will once in a while turn off. Same with hall lights. Hall lights are on two keypads and I've replugged those also. The main 10 button has the living room - galley - hall lights. I suspected that pad at first but as mentioned earlier lights still turn off with that pad unplugged. The main ceiling ights also can be turned on with a Carling switch in the stairway dash but turning them on there will also experience the self turn off phenomena. I am passing east through Ohio soon but M &.M has no openings to look at it, and even if they did Chris was saying it could run $3,000 plus parts to diagnose. For that price I may put up with turning on multiple light circuits to keep the one I really want on. Downside is that puts an extra load on my batteries when we boondock (as we have been for the last week). Boondocking, generator, or shore power still experiences the self turn off problem. I might try putting a few (one or two would increase current draw) halogen high intensity bulbs back in the ceiling instead of the dimmable LEDs and see what that does. These LEDs had worked fine for previous years. It is strange that when multiple light strings on the same board are turned on they stay on. Single light strings don't unless multiple were on for a while and then downed to the single circuit. So many variables it's hard to keep my notes straight for a pattern. Thanks for brainstorming.

This Lifeline distributor is close to me so I've picked up batteries directly from them, but they do ship nationwide too. https://centexbatteries.com/

VID_20230907_080945_converted.mp4 I'm still having this problem of lights turning off by themselves, on multiple boards as shown in this video. You can see the LED on board B come on when living room overhead turned on but goes almost immediately off. Turning it back on and it stays on until the end of the video when it turns off by itself again. You can also watch other LEDs go off by themselves after those corresponding lights are turned on. However when I turn a lot of them on at once I can get them to stay on. Anymore ideas to try?

My preference is DOT approved compression hardware. FWIW, YMMV

I have the drawer glide sliding Coachstep version and have use 86-95 Taurus / Sable passenger side window motor from AutoZone or O'Reilly. #742-277 lifetime warranty. Doorman #83694 had a 1 year warranty.

I have a friend with Carefree awning that extends fine but will only retract about 6 or 8 inches from anywhere it is stopped. I.e. extend it a foot, it'll come back a little with the retract button before the motor turns off. Extend it all the way, the retract button rolls it up just a little before the motor stops. So I think it isn't a limit switch set for the wrong closed position as it will start to retract from any extended position, just only a few inches and not all the way. We're able to wind it up manually. It doesn't appear to have any unusual friction drag.

Just to be clear, I re-wired and added the Intellitec AESS https://intellitec.com/automatic-energy-selector-switch/ and a double pole switch to be able to load share the AquaHot/ Front A/C

When we have hookups, we are on 30a quite a bit, so I automatically load share the front A/C heat pump with the AquaHot using the same type of Intellitec device as the washer & rear A/C heat pump use to share the circuit. Thus when the front A/C heat pump starts drawing current the AquaHot is disconnected. When the front A/C heat pump cycles off the AquaHot is automatically reconnected after a few seconds delay. When back on 50a or generator I throw the switch the other way and they are wired independently again as per the factory.

As we are talking differences, I'll mention that with my 100-03s I seldom turn on the diesel ... typically only when boondocking for two or more days. The 03s has enough boiler antifreeze that an overnight stop still has enough residual heat from the previous day's engine loop for a couple normal showers the next am. I also can get away with electric only room heating when the temps are upper 40's or above. Many times I lose track of time and forget to turn the diesel on for a cycle once a month just to exercise the unit.

If it used to display on a dash monitor I bet someone "dusted" that monitor and inadvertently switched that monitor's input to a different source. Happens to me when cleaning the dust off my dash gauges & etc. My Kenwood flip up monitor has a touch screen and can get into a funky state when wiped "just right".

On my 07 Patriot Thunder built 9/06, I remove the door over the drivers seat that encloses the electrical panels. Then I can pop off the crown molding over the front cabinets and access the overhead space in the front cap. That is where my drop down TV lift controller is, window awning relay boxes, ignition controlled 120 electric outlet for the TV & TV lift, bat wing ant cables, HDMI, RGB + Audio cables, etc all run over to door side then thru the cabinet over the door to the A/V cabinet over the passenger seat. If I don't remove the cabinet door over the driver's seat I have no clearance to remove the front crown molding. It is held in place with cabinet door/drawer spring catches that you carefully disengage like opening a drawer or door pull. The cables feed from the wide open front cap space through the access hole in the center front of the lift box. I ran extra Ethernet cables and antenna wire for my cell phone boosters in the same area. If you ever blow a fuse on a Girard window awning, remember to look up there. FWIW

Just following up with the response I got from Southwire ( who took over the 40250 line ) about my internal board that doesn't match the layout nor connectors. i.e. there is no J8 to jumper to recalibrate. My follow up query: 'Have you found anything out about how to calibrate the board I have as it is not laid out per your provided schematic?" Southwire response: "I am sorry I have not. The first one I sent was not even in our database I had to drag it out of one of my engineers. I have reported that issue you have, and no one has spoken up with an alternative. I know as soon as you upgrade then your Aladdin system will not work. There is one solution and that is Silverleaf has a drop in that will upgrade your Aladdin system to their system. Their system is compatible with our 40350 and 40450 units." So I wonder where the internal board in my 40250 came from?

I dropped a different style glass lense in my Beaver and shattered into a gazillion pieces, but found MHSRV in Alvarado Tx had some exact old stock. Call their parts dept and maybe get lucky? MHSRV.com

Paul, This is probably one of my next steps in trying to isolate the problem. I am a little hesitant as for the next few weeks we are moving daily or have a full schedule on non moving days. There appears to be three identical modules B, D, and F. At the moment the functions on the other boards are working as designed and the way the modules are neatly & compactly packed into the wiring closet, it looks like a fair amount of work/time to remove 3 or 4 modules to be able to swap the suspect module and making careful notes on fuses to swap too. At the moment I don't feel I can risk the time especially since something else maybe introduced. The other modules control things like heat & bedroom lights & generator etc ... at least the way they are labeled. While I was able to break loose all the power connections and re-tightened (they were really tight to begin with ) there were two screws on the cabinet's ground bus bar I could not break ... to tight ... square head driver fits well but would probably have to put a ratchet or impact driver on those two ground screws to break them free to "clean the grounds". In the upper left of the engine bay is another ground bus bar but unable to break any of those screws loose to "clean" the grounds. I may try a simple simple new temporary ground wire from the cabinet to the house battery ground. Turning on more load to increase current draw may give a hint as to a bad ground that overcomes some resistance someplace with the higher load. But I am a little time constrained at the moment and I can temporarily live with "too many lights on" to "keep the lights on" in the front areas. The house battery cut off appears to kill all power to the closet. Removing solar was just part of the steps of insuring battery connections were cleaned even though they visually looked clean.

Hi Bruce. Many years ago I switched all the Halogens out for all LEDs. Florescent tubes in the bath gone too replaced with LED strips. So my overall current load is much less...better for boondocking too. BTW, if I turn on 4 light circuits in the front (ceiling, PS overhead, Living room overhead, and galley) then they stay on. If I just turn on the ceiling or living room (or both of them) they will go out. And they will go out in the relative time order they were turned on. i.e if 2 light circuits turned on 5 seconds apart they will turn off 5 seconds apart. For some reason, the 4 light circuits will make the lights on module B stay on. So in my case, the more LED current load the better.

Are you replacing an A/C only unit or a heat pump? The reversing valve on the heat pumps changed default states while a straight A/C unit has no reversing valve to deal with. Only electrify compressor & fan motors via relays. FWIW, YMMV

I'm starting to think it is this module (B) that is flakey. No number I can easily read as the factory put a nice large "B" stuck over important manufacturing labeling. This module controls the lights we use most of the time. At the moment it appears that if I turn on light circuits on 4 of that module outputs they will stay on. And when I leave them on "long enough" (haven't figured out that magic time yet) then I can turn down to one light circuit. When the lights have been off for a while, and I try just one or two of the light circuits they turn off after some varying xx seconds. Maybe something on the board heats up and then allows the output to stay on. Cold solder joint? Since they will stay on if "warmed up long enough", I don't think it is an offboard power supply problem. At the moment, the BR lights on another module are NOT acting up. Being on the road moving every 2-3 days for the next 4 months could be tough to catch up to a new board. I think a call to M & M is probably needed for a new module. Is 419-965-2662 the correct or outdated number?

No Florescent lights any more, no Halogens. All switched to LEDs several years ago, guessing maybe 2015 or possibly 2016. In any case, been all LED for several years with no more Florescent ballasts in the coach. No electrical work performed since last known "no lights problem" in Feb, other than new chassis batteries. When disconnected from shore, Carbon pile load test on the house batteries show drop to 12.2 under the immediate load then bounce back to 12.6. All four Lifeline 4DL's tested individually and consistent between the 4 Lifelines. With 12v power off, I have loosened and re-tightened all circuit breakers feeding power to all intellitec modules in the closet, and the power connection on the module itself. Boy, those nuts were tight! Also unplugged and re-plugged each boards edge connector and also the inline harness connectors at the top of the wiring closet. Living room lights still automagically turn themselves off.