miacasa_2000

I had almost the same thing every time something was done I'd get 200 to 1000 miles and would happen again a lot of money chasing this problem around. So anyway Monaco added a Raycor-Parker fuel filter (primary) in line first then to the Fleetguard (secondary) supplied by Cummins. I spoke to a old Monaco tech about it he said they had lots of trouble with the Parker filter and to bypass it and see if the problem persisted. So of course 1000 miles from home and in the rain I was removing the brass elbow out of the housing and found the inlet side packed full of rust, this raised my curiosity and started to pick it out to look into the housing and as I was doing this a piece of solder fell down. Yes a 1/4" piece of flat solder some how was in my tank and found it's way all the way to the filter. When work was done and the pressure released it would fall down and lay flat then when ever it decided to flip up and block my inlet it would. I cleaned it all out and never had a problem again (Aug 2016) .That said I know that was a freaky problem but there might be something to the parker filter failure the Monaco guy told me about. I made my bypass out of brass from Lowes 5 or 6" 3/8" nipple ,2 couplings ,and a bushing. For some reason one side is different size from the other but the brass elbows out of the housing are standard pipe thread. Using those fittings is easier the trying to make a bypass of the flared hose ends. Just food for thought

Dennis Crazy you just posted this as I also just did mine 2 weeks ago I used scrap sign material I got from local sign shop. 4 years ago I did the radio one because I was changing out the radio. Anyway the sign material is 1/4" thick a moldable hard rubber sandwiched between 2 aluminum sheets. All standard wood working tools sabre saw, router etc. are all you need. The stuff is super strong enough to hold the larger radio all by itself and like you said the E brake is now solid.

I have a 2003 Dynasty I have both valves on the front tank leaking at the seams. don't want to mess with taking them apart to fix gas gasket I feel safer with new ones and only want to do this once. Question 1. Has anyone done this are there any pitfalls I should be aware of and did you also replace the fittings or reuse your originals? I guess that's actually 3 questions. On my research of the valves seams the original opens at 65psi and closes at either 45 or 55 psi. The new direct replacement from Haldex opens at 70 and closes at 65 psi. I'm of the opinion that that doesn't matter much new one just keeps more air in the tanks for the brakes should there be a catastrophic failure in suspension/accessory system. Question 2. Do you agree. Also some are now plastic bodies vs metal they say for corrosion but I wonder about plastic getting brittle and cracking anyway. Question 3 Any thoughts or are yours plastic? FYI original is Wabco N15759DC crossed to Haldex KN31000 which is now 90555396 I couldn't find a new Wabco# I did find some brands I never heard of. Thanks in advance Roy

Yes that is the regulator on the tee. The blue pex is just a extension of the relief port so if it ever blew open from to much pressure the water would be outside on the ground. just drilled a tight hole and let it extend about an inch like Monaco did on the other drains etc. Got all the parts at lowes did this about 7 or 8 yrs ago.

I had the same situation on my 2003 dynasty . Mine was up behind the panel that just looked like to much trouble to remove and I didn't want to cut a access panel unless I had to. So I came up with this a tee with a pressure regulator so I don't need the portable one any more and there is no flow restriction. and then a 1/4 turn ball valve I close when using the water pump. While at it you can see I brought the hose connection with a quick connect over to line straight up with the access hole Monaco had installed so much easier.

I use the Centramatics on the steers and the duals and drop a bag of beads in the tags. From my experience I do both, no matter what manufacturer you can get a out of round tire and no amount of balance will compensate for that. ( hence my experience ) The balance machine detects these flaws and they can be measured anything above accepted tolerance a good shop will send back and not install it. Now you'll ask well why both. For me I believe they are the reason my ride stays perfect since they balance the hub as well and adapt as we wear things out especially since we don't rotate our tires. (at least I don't ). Of course when your not rolling keep them covered. Roy

Steve reading all you have done I believe it's your tv not because it's out of date (HDMI is HDMI) and all devices that use HDMI work no mater what year there made. Our TVs in our MH take a lot of abuse (shake and rattle) more than likely your circuit board or a solder point has failed. You could open it up and look for something obvious and easy to fix between the HDMI and the board but at 13 yrs I'd upgrade your tv. Roy 2003 Dynasty