miacasa_2000

To you guys with the magne shades do you have any concerns with wind. Where I winter I can't leave without everything protected , Awnings in, chairs, tables, Etc. all put away. Winds whip up wild and crazy at anytime. I have been considering one myself and believe I would prefer outside vs inside type. And what about thievery ? Roy 2003 Dynasty

Mike Mine started acting up similar to yours I found the coupler connecting the data wire from the thermostat to the unit had corroded inside. Probably causing the unit to keep getting mixed signals. I cleaned the jack ends and got new couplers and it behaves like normal now. Roy

Long distance testing on the cheap. Take a old 3 prong cord off of something you were going to throw out anyway ( my case a drill) and put alligator clips on the wires. Then grab your extension cord and your good to go. As example you can be in the cockpit with your meters and test components no matter where they are. Thru the years I've added other connectors to my kit. male and female spades , male and female round pins all with wire leads. Roy 2003 Dynasty

Put a 1/2 gallon of kids bubbles in a small 1 gallon garden sprayer. You don't have to get real close, the fan spray covers really well. Saves your hands from all the pumping using a spray bottle. Roy 2003 Dynasty

Anyone know where to find the low air audible alarm mine is working intermediately but the dash idiot light works at the right pressures all the time. I thought it was behind the dash, took top access cover of and looked thru the spaghetti for a square or round speaker type box and found none. Hoping it just came loose. I have a 2003 dynasty If anyone can help I'd like to know where it is, what it looks like and when they start to go do they go like that and last but not least do they share the same switch with the idiot light? Roy

Not sure of your coach I have 4. 2 on each tank (front , rear) I replaced mine a few months ago got them from advance auto for $15 each. Too cheep to rebuild I also replaced my fittings with swivel type so if these cheaper one fail prematurely I don't have to keep pulling, cutting, etc. the air lines. That being said they are well made and used in the trucking industry. ( World American pressure valve WAKN31000 ). My suggestion is to air your coach all they way up and and secure it by a safe method don't go under with out that . Then get about a 1/2 gallon of kids bubbles and put it in a garden sprayer and spray the heck out of every thing. As fast as your dropping you might find more then a ppv.

Rob I'm aware there are no solenoids on the ride height valve and I think the key here is you said your bags wouldn't inflate at all. When I follow the path the ride height valve gets it's air from the tank and as it calls for air by way of the lever it lets air pass thru to the bags it has no electric to it. but to get to the bags it goes first to the manifold where there are solenoids to open and let that air pass to the bags when they get the travel signal. That way when they are not energized and they close you then can raise or lower to any point you chose by the other solenoid valves on the manifold with out the ride height valve trying to override the level system. But that being said I will examine my ride height valves what made me think it's not them is the front like you has only one valve teed to both sides and my ps raises fine. And yes I always block up the coach anytime I go under whether working on air or something else.

Thank you but as I stated I know my ride height is 9" This coach rides like a dream no porposing no sway or drift. Rob you didn't say why you replaced your ride height valves did you have the same condition with a side being low. In the front I only have one that's teed together for left and right sides now perhaps my valve on the left rear has failed and pulls the front out of wack with it. And did yours let the bags inflate a couple of inches and then stop like mine do?

OK now that I'm done with leaks ,compressor and proper operation of my HWH air level now to part 2. When I air up especially from all the way down my drivers side lags way behind my passenger side when the system stops adding air and the travel light is lit the drivers side is anywhere from 1-1/2" to 2" below passenger side I've measured this and the the bag height many times. The bags on the passenger side 9" heavy to 9-1/2" the drivers side will be in the front 7-1/2" to 7-3/4" the rear will be 8-1/8" to 8-3/8" I know all the bags are supposed to be 9" between the plates. This just started over this winter and when I left Fl. I put the system back to manual level got the height right turned system off travel light on and it stayed that way all the way back home. Now I imagine I have 1 or 2 travel solenoids not working either bad or not energized and what is puzzling is a whole side not just a corner and the bags get air just not enough. Thanks to your repair manual it seems there are fuses on all these solenoids besides the ones in the control box. Is that what is in this bag thought I'd ask before I tore into it. And am I on the right track and is there other things I should be looking for?

Rich when you dump all the air out are there stops inside the air bag so they don't get to crushed I've always thought that could harm the bags. And I have almost always set mine manually as well for the same reason but it would still lower down. So do you let all the air out before you level or is yours just that leak proof

1st of all thank you all for your help. Turns out my compressor worked all along. You see when I bought the coach it was 6 yrs old and my first one. Whenever I would use one of the raise buttons I always herd noise I thought was the valves. Now I heard this if the tanks had 130 psi or 10 turns out the the pressure switch had failed in the closed position so the compressor would always run no matter what psi I had. So now it's all back together and when the tanks are up and the raise is pushed I just hear a small air sound as I see the coach rise What a difference. Now please tell me if I'm correct on this. Parked on level lot coach aired up auto level on over time lets say driver side sags a little faster then the passenger side and when the system wakes up and it's out of the parameter it will let air out of the ps. till level. days later same thing till eventually the coach has set all the way down it will never add air because it's level and there it will stay. And of course if you were on a unlevel lot it would still lower all the way down and then when that didn't work any more it would run the compressor as it raised the low side. It will never keep the original height all it knows how to do is keep it level nor will it fill the tanks they would only get some air while the low side is being raised to the height required. If all this is good I will move onto another part of my air problem in another post.

pressure protection valve

I was actually reading that when you posted

Richard Thank you for the repair manual mine is the 600 series but close enough. It has answered some questions and gave me a few more things to check. Yes my compressor works as I stated when I supplied 12v to the wire all the way back at the control box. My box is in the ceiling of the large cargo bay next to the level sensor. I couldn't figure why I couldn't find a fuse to this now I know there isn't one. It was your article on how you replaced yours that got me thinking about this in the fist place I thought I was going to find a bad compressor but that is not the case. Rich another thank you you made me think about the download part of this forum and there it was the 600 series repair manual. I feel so dumb I will look thru there first from now on. If I remember

Thank you for the contact info on Paul. I will wait until I have the compressor back in and park it on the unlevel ground and make sure I still have a compressor issue.

Okay that explains why when parked on level lots for extended stays 2 months or more it just settles down till it bottoms out and the tanks empty out and since I don't go under without being supported on my level pad a home it wouldn't call for use when I had it on and let the air out of the tanks. I have a unlevel area I can park it on to check if the compressor will the come on after it settles down to the point it must raise to level. Meanwhile though I took the compressor out to clean and check everything and found my pressure switch was stuck closed it let continuity pass thru all the way up to 175 psi (max on my garage compressor ) so I ordered a new one and got to wondering if at one point in time with the compressor always running if that could have caused a issue with the controller. The blow off valve trips open at 162 psi so I feel that's Ok couldn't find a spec on that.

Sorry Chuck I thought it would be clear since I was asking about the 12v wire from the HWH that I was talking about the small HWH compressor I apologize. And yes I have chased most of my leaks down most were from the ppv's now I still have a small one or two somewhere I can get 3 to 4 weeks dropping slowly and staying almost level. But that is not my issue I'm concerned with at this step it's the HWH compressor. Roy

My air level works as it should I believe. I'm a 2nd owner and only know what I know from the manuals. Hit the air button once and I can manual level. hit it twice and it does it automatically. That being said after a few weeks it has sagged and works its way out of level whether its left on manual or auto. From what I read I believe it wakes up to check level every 30 min. but only if left on auto when you key off, on manual it never wakes up. So to relevel I must start the coach up to air up and start all over again. I always thought I had a bad air compressor. Upon investigation I've found the compressor works fine and will air both my tanks up fine. My issue is the 12v wire from the HWH control box seams to never energize. I have unplugged it there and supplied 12v and the compressor works. I have checked all the fuses in the control box and also in the front command center. So here goes: Is this supposed to be energized the whole time the air level is on so the tanks never get to low so when it wakes up it can adjust if needed? That's how I think it should work. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot this ? Or has fixed this problem before. Also I don't know if mine ever wakes up How can you tell and or troubleshoot that ? Roy 03 Dynasty

Thank you Ivan You gave me food for thought. Right now I'm chasing down issues with onboard (air level) compressor but next I will look into at least the door window. I've been in construction my entire life and work on cars and engines also since a boy something about doing it yourself and the satisfaction you get still makes me want to tackle projects like these.

Ivan Would you be interested with sharing more detailed instructions on how you did it and what you used for polishing ? How you keep moisture out ? Make the black outer seal ? In 2013 I replaced like you my driver side and my door glass. I called Atwood they had all the specs on file and I had them just send the glass. So I have experience in taking the windows out and separating from frame etc. My new door glass started to fog in a year and drivers slide window shortly after that. They are almost to the point that made me want to do it the first time but after such a short life of clear glass I've been reluctant but would attempt it myself. Only drawback I see is if the glass won't polish out I might be stuck putting the fogged one back in.

I also installed the extra light on my dash for toad brakes . What I did was make my own connection cord using the 7 pin replacement cord sold for travel trailers so I have only one cord (wire) to hook up and have my 12v charge wire and aux brake light along with all the usual . I also use and am a fan of RVI brake systems. Roy 03 Dynasty

Jim on mine I also have trim hiding the gap from the ceiling to the doors it's screwed to the ceiling and is easy to remove . The height adjustments is made by the nuts on the threaded hanger rod . To remove the door from the carriage slide the lock plate (usually plastic ) around it pivots out of the way to release the rod from the door plate. The stop on mine is just a lag bolt up in the track. You can see the almost flush mounting screws for the track the the carriage can clear then the bigger lag bolts that the carriage can't. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty Sorry Jim I had your original on my computer and just got around to respond should have checked for updates before I spoke. As far as your new found problem after you remove the doors and get the track in your hands you might be able to see better what's going on . One thing comes to mind and that's enlarging the hole to go up 2 or 3 sizes in the mounting screws and add some glue to the threads. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

Karl Spemco is another great company for switches , lights, etc. they carry many brands. https://spemco.com/ Roy 2003 Dynasty

Had same issues with mine replaced it with KE 1701BHC by Essex also got mine from A1 Electric ( they sell genuine Essex). My coach being a 2003 had the smaller unit but enlarging the hole is a easy task. Best of all if yours is a Essex then it's just plug and play. In 2015 it cost $180.00 Well worth it. https://www.keyless.com/ke-1700/

If tackling this yourself do yourself a favor and pick up a cheap air impact chisel gun. Harbor freight has a kit for $13 . I have used a cheap one for years (automotive work) then last year I did my house hall bath with hammer ,wonder bar etc. and it was horrible . Right now I'm doing my master bath and dreaded taking out the old tile tried the air chisel and couldn't believe I didn't think of it earlier did in 1/2 hr what took all day before. Also doesn't shock the floor as much as blows from the hammer.