jacwjames

I had never had the opportunity to me Chris but have read everyone of his posts, the quality and amount of information he passed on is noteworthy. When Chris posted something I read it. So I hope you have many years of retirement and enjoy your ranch, you deserve it.

No doubt but I suspect that there may be similarities on how to adjust the limits for amperage/force. On my front slide I can hold my IN/OUT button in and let the controller do it's thing. The rear bedroom slide has a clutch mechanism, the drive gear starts to jump when you reach the limits.

So I finally got a chance to take the rig out for a shake down drive prior to my wife leaving next week for a ~2 month trip. Wanted to check everything and all seems to be working fine. I decided to try out the TSD card, didn't need much fuel but wanted to make sure it worked. Pretty straight forward as far as using the card and filling the rig. I got the transaction details, I only pumped 15 gallons, advertised price was $3.429, discount price was $3.081 but that didn't include the fees. So the charge was $47.44 after the transactions fee $0.65, there was also a 10% Program Fee against the Discount $5.23 or $0.53. So my final price was $3.16/gallon. The nearest Sam's Club has a posted price of $3.44, so with my 5% rebate on fuel the price would be $3.26. So Open Roads is a little cheaper but the real savings may be convenience of getting on/off the interstate a little easier, easier access and faster filling. Still looking at the Mudflap program also, I have it set up on my phone, have to get it set up on my wife's phone, it would be good to have other options.

I had this in my files, it discussed the slide limiter and how to adjust. Yours may be different but probably similar as to how to adjust the control module. Power-Gear-Slide-Out-Manual-Operation-Guide-82-S0220-01.pdf

X2 on changing fuel filters as the first step and see if that solves the problem. The black pieces may be contamination due to algae. When I had it the stuff was black slimy strings that almost completely clogged my primary filter. But I have heard of harder black chunks. Since then I use both Biobor, which kills the algae, and Startron, which is an enzyme that breaks down the dead algae so it is consumed in the engine. Never had another problem. Not sure what engine you have, if it is the ISC series there is a potential problem with the lift/transfer pump that runs for ~30 seconds to prime the system. The lift pump will start leaking but when it shuts off the CAPS injector pump has the potential to suck air which can eventually cause the injector pump to fail >>> $$$$$ My lift pump started to leak so a long term fix is to bypass and install a different lift pump. I installed a FASS pump in 2021, which has 2 filters on it and cycles ~+85% of the fuel pumped back to tank, so while driving it will continually polish the fuel. A big benefit to provide clean fuel to the engine. I have a fuel pressure gauge installed on the secondary filter so I know how much pressure is at the injector pump, usually 16psi.

Good question, I stand corrected. So I guess I have walked on it wet and never fell off

I haven't tried to go on the roof when it's wet but I've been on it and the Topside paint isn't slippery to walk on.

My smart wheel box is under the dash behind the radio. I take out the small panel with the radio still mounted in it and lay it down across the small drawer in the front center dash console. This gives be access to the smartwheel box but it's a stretch to get to it. I had a wire on mine come loose not too long after I bought it but when I looked at it someone had previously done a crappy repair job. I believe there is a fuse on the smart wheel board. Check the downloads section and there should be a VIP troubleshooting guide

I did mine in 2021. I used a small pressure washer with the circular concrete/patio rotary cleaning head, did a great job on a bulk of the roof, used brush and light pressure washer on tight spots. I washed the coach on the outside but then was able to back it into the garage to paint it. Unfortunately I did not have covered storage and in 2017 moved my rig to the wooded lot as I was building a new house. Parked under trees for several years really took a toll on the roof, but it cleaned up pretty good and the Topside paint went on great and so far has held up. Last picture is + 2 years after painting.

I checked the local Coop and Tractor supply, nothing that big. Batteries Plus carry that size but I ended up buying at AutoZone this last time. Drove the coach to Autozone and they helped me swap it out.

You need to get your eyes on your sensor and make sure it is the same thing. I know my 2002 Windsor has a throttle pedal made by Williams, it is a different sensor. I don't carry many spare parts but I do carry a spare sensor for my throttle pedal.

When I installed my FASS pump I talked to VAN Williams on his install. When Van tells you something you can pretty well take it to the bank. He said he talked to Cummins about a FASS install and they advised against relying on the return line from the OEM lift pump to carry excess fuel back to tank, the back pressure caused by the excess flow could damage the CAPS pump. Alot of people mount the pump near the engine but it relies on the original return line if they don't run an extra line back to tank Van mounted his FASS pump near the engine but ran a separate fuel return line to avoid this. I mounted mine near the fuel tank, it made the electrical and plumbing much easier That way I could use the original fuel (suction) supply line as the pressurized fuel line from the FASS. I had a new suction line made at Napa and attached it to the fuel tank pick up fitting. I then put a T in the return line circuit and return fuel from the FASS there along with the original fuel return line. I did decide to go with the FASS pump because on the fuel polishing. I had algae one time, and one time is enough. Since then I've been using algaecide. But having the ability to continually filter/clean the fuel is worth the extra cost.

I would be in the top left side of video, the air intake is blocking the view. Get the engine SN, create and account on the Cummins Quickserve site https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html register the engine and then do a search for injector pump and see what it says.

This is a desirable coach for people who like to get into smaller state/national campgrounds. It has a great history and if taken care of can last a long time and run for hundereds of thousands of miles. But Maintenance is the key, see if there are records of oil changes and services. Chassis lubrication and inspection is important, some reports of the rear axle supports cracking and failing on the Roadmaster chassis. I found a hairline crack on my passenger side last year and had it welded, some shops add gussets. Check tire DOT date codes, 7 year age is rule of thumb. In 1998 Cummins ISC started using the CAPS injection pump you would have to be concerned about the lift pump failure/leak, which if left unchecked could cause a problem with the CAPS injection pump. So if you have a CAPS injection check the lift pump. It is mounted on passenger side toward the transmission, you can see it through the bedroom engine hatch. There are 3 bolt heads on top that can be tightened as a short term fix if it is leaking. Long term if transfer pump leaks while running `30 seconds prior to starting engine chances are it is pulling air into the fuel system while engine is running. Long term it will cause the CAPS pump to fail. Here's a site with pictures of the CAPS injection pump. Best place to see it is from bedroom engine hatch looking toward pulley end of motor. If you see a wiring harness with 3 connectors you have the CAPS injection pump. My transfer pump started leaking in 2020. I fixed it temporarily by tightening the 3 bolts on top. Long Term I installed a FASS transfer pump and bypassed the lift pump.

Did you change the dryer????

I have a chart in my owners manual that shows pressure based on ambient temp.

Depends on what year, early 2000's models came with the dipstick, not sure what year they quit using/installing them. Mine has a dipstick. Only really used when I was unsure on level. Also good if you can't get the tranny up to full temp to use the touchpad to check. You can do a cold check with dipstick and engine at idle to get a close reading.

FWIW I have 2 dipsticks. One is accessible via the bedroom hatch cover. The other is at the bottom of the transmission, drivers side. Last Oct I had my auxillary cooler leak tranny fluid, I had no idea how much but I knew it was low. So I added one gallon and quickly checked with the dipstick via the bedroom hatch >>>nothing on dipstick with engine at idle. Added another gallon>>> nothing on dipstick. Finally added a 3rd gallon and dipstick showed oil level good. I then took it for a test run ~20 miles down the highway and then checked it via the shift panel>>> OL OK. Got lucky as it doesn't appear any damage. Drove another ~2500 miles and then pulled oil sample and it came back good. So ya, I can see where having a dipstick isn't a bad thing.

I redid 3 windows in 2015, still holding good. Here's a post I did on IRV2 https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dont-wait-too-long-246255.html I had a seal that was attached to the outside of the frame. I was able to remove the window without damaging the seal and just went back with it. I did put a bead of the Geocel caulk around the window after I had it back in place and tight. In 2019 I also pulled the window above the dinette table to bring a residential fridge in, put right back in place and reused seal without a problem.

Mark B's first post is what his looked like before he redid his and was like mine with the Blue generator wire attached, purple relay wire attached and no wire to coach battery. That was the as the original wiring on my 2002. My guess is that the PO of Todd's coach made the changes to copy an new model coach . NOT gonna lie, I know enough about circuit boards & low voltage electrical to be dangerous, so I'll leave it up to your expertise on the "why" Monaco did what they did.

In Tom's original post about the voltage Anomaly Mark B posted pictures he had on file that show the original wiring for the BIRD. It does show the purple wire for the relay connected (2 of the 3 views have it connected, not sure why), the blue wire for the generator sense connected, and no wire connected to the coach battery. I don't have pictures of mine but I had all the same wires and labeled them when I removed the BIRD. So the PO of Todd's coach disconnected the Lambert only using for a wire connector on the bottom stud. He also disconnected the the Generator wire but then added the coach battery wire which came from the isolation solenoid. I know that Monaco made changes while building a model/year, many of the parts diagrams I have show several versions based on SN of the coach, they documented for the parts pages. The wiring schematics may or may not have kept up with the changes. The schematic that I attached does show the BIRD and you can trace the wires pretty good (zoomed in at +600%)

I removed mine and was able to repair by putting the rivet on a sledge hammer and then using another large hammer and flatten the rivet. I also took the little tab that catches the door and bend it up a little, which added some friction to the scissor. Did that ~6 years ago and still working fine.

I installed the TSD08100G which is a 100 gph flow rate but it has an internal pressure regulator to limit pressure to ~16psi. Not sure what the big difference is and whether the additional pressure would be a problem. I'd be concerned with leaks down stream. You could consider putting in a pressure regulator with at return to tank on the excess. I'm sure a work around is possible, just not sure what all is involved. Working with higher pressure fuel might be an issue.

My set up was just like Todd's originally Attached is the parts page showing the BIRD, Lambert, and Isolation Solenoid, same as Todd's Also attached is the electrical schematic. I did replace all of that with the Bluesea as I was questioning whether it was working correctly, didn't try to figure a work around but evidently the previous owner of Todd's coach was smart enough to figure it out and make it work. 1 Electrical Panel Passenger Sider 1.pdf 1 Electrical Panel Passenger Side 2.pdf 2002_Windsor_wiring_diagrams Rear Passenger side electric.pdf

Did the installer have to remove couch to install flooring?? If so you'll have to remove couch to access the screws.