jacwjames

Check your manual, there should be a section on the pressure to charge the AC system. Not sure what the heater core sees for pressure.

Here are the instructions from the manual for a 2013 model year. 1. Turn the ignition to the on position. Do not start the engine. 2. Press and hold the brake pedal. 3. Shift the 4WD switch to 2H. 4. Shift the transmission to position N. 5. Rotate the 4WD switch from 2H to 4L and back to 2H five times within seven seconds. • If completed successfully, the information display shows NEUTRAL TOW LEAVE IN N or NEUTRAL TOW ENABLED LEAVE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL. This indicates that your vehicle is safe to tow with all wheels on the ground. • If you do not see the message in the display, you must perform the procedure again from the beginning. • You may hear an audible noise as the transfer case shifts into its neutral position. This is normal. 6. Leave the transmission in position N and turn the ignition as far as it will go toward the off position (it will not turn fully off when the transmission is in position N. You must leave the key in the ignition while towing. To lock and unlock your vehicle, use the keyless entry keypad or extra set of keys. 7. Release the brake pedal So key stays in ignition with it turned all the way off.

The coach and truck looked so pretty you had to post twice👍

Can you post a picture of the part that is broke?

Ya, my wife's Anatolian Shepard would like the room😅 So you haven't had any major mechanical problems, how many miles on the truck? Thanks

Thanks Mike The truck is already set up for towing so I assume it can be towed which is a big advantage. Price is in line with what I've seen especially with the towing package. Been doing some research, you can find both pro and con comments but overall it seems to have some positive reviews and comments. Asked a mechanic friend and he said overall pretty positive.

Can you post a picture of the part that is split? Since you've posted this I've tried to search to find a replacement. Veurinks pretty much sources parts from REVRVParts.com They also show the part out of stock. https://revrvparts.com/item-detail?itemId=39980&organizationId=9 The important part is the 6.375" Back set, but in the picture it looks like the bolt portion is an add on to get that distance. I have not found a source so you may have to resort to trying and repair yours.

Do you have a manual, there may be a way to recover the fault codes other then the scangauge. Do you have an Alladin display, have you check what is possible using that?

I've been looking for a different toad. I found a 2013 Ford F 150 Platinum Ecoboost all ready set up for towing, looks like it is in really clean condition. New tires and brakes, 86K miles on it. Anyone have any thoughts on this, especially the Ecoboost engine. I heard there are problems with specific year, trying to figure out if this one would be reliable.

I'd suggest checking your voltage at the outlet before you do anything. This could help and/or hurt your cause. I have a Progressive surge protector. While I was building my house and plugged into the temp pole and saw low voltage fault, thought it might be an anomaly. After got the house wiring done and hooked up permanently I noticed the same thing so started checking voltage and sure enough, it was low dropping to ~110 volts and sometimes less. Not good. Sent an email to the utility company and about 2 weeks later got a call from one of their engineers, he said they checked into it and sure enough, the taps at the transformer weren't adjusted correctly so they were supplying low voltage to the whole neighborhood. He thanked me for reporting it. Now our voltage is +120V-123V. So it does make a difference.

On some coaches they mounted the valve behind the white panel in the wet bay, other times they mounted it on the outside. And or they could have used a standard water valve and just put a check valve in the line between the fitting you attach your water hose to and the valve. In my case the valve is mounted on the outside of the white panel, but to be able work on it I removed. They put finger nuts on the water lines behind the panel so I could reach up behind and unscrew the two finger nuts. I then was able to put the valve in a vise to hold it so I could replace the check valve, which on the left side of the valve.

Did you apply a water based stain? Did you have to trim the door at all before you installed. If you have a scrap piece already stained play with it to try and get close to the correct color. What is the wood you have in the coach now>>> Cherry????

Go back and look at Mark's first post with pictures, it shows the BIRD & Lambert maintainer. This is what I was looking at when I made the comments and then comparing to the photos that Todd posted. Mark's second post shows the modes he's done to include the solar charger and the trickle charger.

Thanks for posting Mark. Does your coach start with the chassis battery disconnect OFF? So the big changes are that the Lambert 415 has been disabled by removing the red wire and ground AND bottom stud on the Lambert is just being used to connect the coach wire from the Isolation Solenoid to the BIRD with a white wire that is plugged into coach battery spad on the BIRD (which is open in the original setup). Pretty simple work around to eliminate the Lambert and convert the charging system to the new BIRD style charging. I believe this is the work around that Tom described.

Glad you found the wires and didn't damage them. I was thinking there might be the potential as I have a box covering plumbing and wiring in my bathroom. But you came up with an elegant solution, looks good. From experience it is very hard to match stains, it is more of an art then a science. Have you already put a clear coat on it? If not you might be able to play with a darker stain to get it to match.

My coach has one that is part of the Swann "City Fill" valve. Mine started to fail, allowing the pump to put water back into the fresh water tank, I didn't loose any water but the pump started to cycle on a very rare frequency!! Here is the Swan Quick fill valve https://swanindustries.com/collections/retail-customer/products/copy-of-wsv150st-quick-water-fill You can see the check valve on the left side of the block. Here is the check valve I bought, check around for the best price, I paid ~$14 3 years ago, much higher now. https://jrproducts.net/product/62195/

To get back on the road you might try and improvise. Put in a shark bite type T in one of the other cold water type and plumb the other hose into it. You'd have cap off the leaking circuit on the manabloc some how.

Prior to this post I was convinces that the Lambert 415 had failed and the previous owner improvised a solution. After reading your post and talking to Todd I'm thinking that the changes that were made did exactly as you describe. He now has a full BIRD system with the only caveat is that the generator sense wire has been disconnected.

Tom Todd did do some wire tracing and I talked to him on the phone. I believe he does have a wire running from the ignition to the chassis stud of the solenoid relay so he is getting charging as you describe. The boost relay is a 200 amp continuous duty type https://www.amazon.com/RODGERS-586-902-CONTACTOR-SPST-NO-BRACKET/dp/B00DE3HY4K/ref=sr_1_3?crid=MLIDCRICHWIH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZKCXl5KwbpH1c0a884k2I0zi0PqvQY564KBnJJk5BuDNT_FbaqAJ9XeQnZr1On-8G4lFGI4Te2TUIzAoA8XkmTPe3suldDlg2qtmpiiX_vRTmBqd_No7lTj8W5lkpKdTW4i34wlvUyuoa-8unje3nLv8jfRXAbcebt4pIBgUPtiQLTVRa8HTDhKG9LXd1vCT9PkAollaF0Q8mda0VGhqQFfMqk8hbDR7_sN7q5nWwew.oUdshW_3Qb5WFqbeOZhF5FtSRNBY-dc60xry3Tm4MOA&dib_tag=se&keywords=586-902&qid=1714438829&sprefix=586-902%2Caps%2C305&sr=8-3

I tried to look at mine, I've installed the Bluesea but when I removed the wires I tried to label them. Only thing I see that is a little concerning is the white wire attached to the bottom lug of the Lambert, does it go to the BIRD coach battery tab?? Ya, had a brain fart. Still doesn't make sense why the boost solenoid is on all the time.

The plot thickens. Some one has abandoned the original house/coach charging system. The Lambert 415 maintainer is what originally kept the chassis batteries charged while on shore power and the house batteries charge via alternator while driving. The disconnected the generator sense wire so the BIRD wouldn't prevent charging while generator was running. Can you trace the white wire that is connected to the Lambert 415 and the black wire, where do these go. My guess is that the wiring changes closes the isolation solenoid/relay and connect both battery banks together all the time. That is why you were able to start the rig with the chassis disconnect off. Cart before the horse, not sure if the Lambert went bad or the BIRD. Either way easiest solution to get the charging system working back close to the way it was is to install a Bluesea. I started questioning my Lambert 415, it started to click on/off faster/slower, which had never done before. I installed a Bluesea and abandoned the Lambert, BIRD, and Isolation Solenoid/relay ~3 years ago.

The other issue is that my rig has only a 200 amp continuous duty latching solenoid. This is used as a battery boost function but not to carry the full load of starting. Won't take many times before this fails. The primary purpose of this solenoid is maintaining batteries voltage while driving or on shore power, not to carry lots of amps. Still waiting on info from Todd, he texted me this AM saying he was tied up in the morning.

When I first considered flooring I picked up a bunch of samples from Lowes and showed them to my wife. The firsts ones she discarded were the ones that were heavily textured. She travels with dogs (lots of dogs) and the texturing would hold dirt and water after walking dogs during a rain. The next thing was the joints. Some of the samples had a groove/space at the joint, another place for dirt. So this eliminated a large number of samples Lowes had one style that was smooth with no joint and provided a natural look. I laid this in 2021 and it seems to be holding up pretty good but time will tell. I did not use any type of adhesive, it is a floating floor. I know the recommendation is to allow for ~1/4 expansion joint around the perimeter but I made it tight side to side. This is only a ~8' distance so I feel the expansion is minimal and having a tight fit keeps it positioned. I did allow a space between the tile and the laminate front to back, which was covered by the transition piece.

It depends Cummins had a TSB where they would change out a proportional sender to a low pressure type. I've heard different reasons/theories for this, one of which they were getting lots of complaints of low oil pressure so the opted to go with a switch type sender. So if you sender goes out and you try and find a replacement using the Cummins PN the one that will come up is the switch but it include a different wiring harness and require a reprograming of the ECM If you go this route and monitor your engine it will show 55psi or "0". For me I want to see the correct oil pressure TSB Oil Pressure Switch Installation.pdf

So, I also own a 2002 Windsor so should be pretty close to what Todd has (snowflakes). He states the disconnect was off but was able to start the coach at which point he saw the high voltage on chassis batteries. I'm so confused🤬 With the disconnect off the coach should not have started UNLESS the Isolation Solenoid is closed which would combine both battery banks, that's the only way to get voltage to the starter, otherwise the two systems are separate. I know one time my disconnect failed and I had NOTHING at the dash and the rig would not start, basically the same as turning the disconnect off. Only way to get power to start is to go through the isolation solenoid which closes when you press the boost switch. I've sent Todd a PM to have him check some things. Hopefully he'll report back tomorrow.