windsorbill06

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

MY DW sits after she pulls close enough for the tow bar hookup.  She refuses to be involved.  I do have her sit in vehicle and turn on and off the ignition…..then finally start engine and put in reverse and rev up….repeat for drive.  So, I functionally test neutral before we start the trip.  Likewise she pulls up and then after total disconnect of bar and umbilical, I reach in window and restore it from NEUTRAL.

A real MARRIAGE saving protocol….LOL….

The last couple trips, I've taken my 14.5 year old grandson since my wife had to stay back for work (CPA, tax time!!).  I've let him pull the car up to the tow bar and he and I've practice the check list several times, but I still oversee his steps.   He takes it VERY seriously. I asked him a non-relevant question mid checklist, and he insisted on starting over.   Even leaves his IPhone in coach so he doesn't get distracted, which, I'm told,  is unheard of.  LOL. 

Trust, but Verify.   

I made up a  Honda CRV check list for my wife to reference.  I laminated it and keep it in the car.    She follows it carefully and we've never had an issue--going on 10 years now.

2014 Honda tow checklist.docx

I actually bought 2 from  2 different sources.  originally WWW.buyparts.online   Slow to respond and I thought it was a scam.  Apparently not, but lousy business model. Took 2 weeks for them to drop in mail.   They don't answer phone, don't return calls and very slow at responding to emails. I was ready to dispute the charge with CC company. I wouldn't use them again.

Then I found 1 on ebay, but I went direct to seller in Colorado.  The ebay says 'no returns, no exceptions' and I was a little skeptical.  Once I talked to them, I felt better.     Arkansas Valley Diesel Services, Inc   (719) 336-3241  (actually in Colorado)

I know this is an older thread, but goes along the same lines.

I've been having intermittent cruise control issues for years.  I couldn't turn it on with the smart wheel.  Take it to dealer, it's fine.   Maybe go several months working fine, and out of the blue, stops working.

I finally tracked the problem down to when the steering wheel is exposed to the sun, it heats up.  Cools down, it's fine.  I took the clock spring out and bench tested it.  Resistance was <1 most of the time.   When heated up with a blow dryer, resistance varied, but got up to 2 and sometimes much higher.  Let it cool down and would drop but then I noticed one of the legs stayed up above 3.  Ordered a new one and resistance is .6 at room temp.  Stays below <1 when set in sun.  Everything working as it should now.

They are hard to find.  Veurink has them at nearly $400 with shipping.  I found a couple other places from internet searches.  Cheapest I found was $180 and only $7 shipping, but slow to respond to questions.    Took them 2 weeks to drop it in mail.  I was going to call the credit card company and dispute the charge, but just got an update that it did finally ship.  So I'll have 2 of them.   Correct part number for my coach is 1900043.  I believe Douglas Autotech makes it.

New one came 'pre centered'.   See white clip on picture.  It needs to be pulled out as you re-assemble everything.

Very straight forward swap. 

Here's the new one with the auto centering clip installed.  I couldn't resist and cut the old one open to see how it works.  

I went with the Samsung french door model.  I know some have had issues, but mine has been flawless.    At the time, I had a MSW inverter, and Samsung was one of the few (maybe the only one) that would work with MSW's.   Also the dimensions were very close.  I think it's a couple inches taller, then the Norcold was, but width and depth were virtually the same. 

4 hours ago, Hancoman said:

Decided to go with a residential refrigerator going to be installed first week in May. I am guessing this is the original refrigerator so it lasted 23 years. If anyone is looking for parts let me know.

 

Tom

good decision.  

When I swapped out mine to a residential maybe 5 years ago, I salvaged the fans from the back of the old fridge,  and I think a couple interior plastic trays for other projects.   Our local trash vendor picks up appliances for free, so off it went.

@Bill R PO obviously decided that running 5' of romex to ATS vs 25' to the panel was easier.  Can't blame him, but not best set up.   

@Bill R not related to your water leak, but I'm curious what the box is in the foreground?   Looks like electrical fuses/circuit breakers or disconnect?

Kaper supplied them for my coach.  Here's a link.

https://www.kaperii.com/

If you don't have any luck, post the dimensions of yours.

5 hours ago, rpasetto said:

An '06 with Valid air leveling?  I thought Monaco used HWH up thru '06, then started with Valid in '07.

My 06 windsor also has the Valid system.   It's the only year monaco put it on the Windsor.   It's been flawless.

I had an issue with the steering wheel horn pad (center of smart wheel) not making contact when I pressed on it.  And  just a couple months ago in Quartzsite, another Monaco owner had the same issue.

Take the horn pad off the center of the steering wheel and remove the yellow wire.  Touch that yellow wire on the brackets mounted on the steering wheel column, where the 2 gray wires are connected.  

If the horn does activate, your horn pad is not seated properly in the steering wheel.

18 hours ago, Kenster said:

The original is more square with slightly radiused corners, and the replacement that supersedes the original appears to be slightly rounded on the top. Did you have white paint showing around the top of the newer version? If so, how did you address that?

I took some aluminum (think sheet metal) from Lowes and cut it to size and rounded corners.  Pre-fit it and then cleaned it real well with vinegar, primed and painted it.  It's been about 5 years and held up pretty well.  Can remember if I used Rustoleum "Hammered" paint or possibly just gloss black.  You could alway have it powered coated.  Picture not the best, but it almost looks OEM.

I personally would not replace the 2 awnings with 1 large one.  We often leave our door awning out during inclimate/rainy weather. I won't extend the large awning if there's any chance of moderate winds, often times associated with rain.

Ali

I'm going through a similar issue, but at the other end of the drag link.  My rubber grease boot split and I'm researching options.

But to your question, here's a picture of mine.  Your second picture looks as if the gap is not the same all the way around, but maybe it's the angle of the camera. There's no rubber boot at that gap, at least not on mine, it's up by the zerk fitting.    I'd chock the tires, start the engine, and have someone turn the steering wheel,  just a little, back and forth, while you watch to see if there is any play/slack in that joint.  

15 minutes ago, DBRV.0 said:

I've tried looking at wiring diagrams and cannot figure this out.  I've tried Monacoers searches, but come up empty.  Here is how my 2009 is wired:

The front TV as a double-outlet receptacle.  But that receptacle has 2 Romex wires.  One is switched power and comes from the AV cabinet, as shown.  I cannot figure out what the other Romex is for - it has to be a power feed to somewhere for something.  Part of what is perplexing is that it is switched power.  It is not any of the 3 floor-level outlets in the front seat area.

Anyone with an idea?

- Jeff

I'll throw this out for thought.

A couple years ago, over on IRV2, we figured out on a older windsor that the front TV receptacle was a junction box.  There was a home run from the CB panel to the front TV, and from there,  it fed several outlets in the kitchen slide.  Try doing some testing with that in mind.   

11 minutes ago, CLIFF918 said:

I cut it out with the saws all. Did not have an effect on stability of side wall.

11 minutes ago, CLIFF918 said:

I cut it out with the saws all. Did not have an effect on stability of side wall.

I had mis-read your post.  I thought you left the stud in place.   I'm leaning towards cutting the stud  out as well.  The 3/4" plywood sheer wall makes the wall very stout.  I'll likely add a couple of self tapping screws through the plywood into the stud, just above and below where I cut it out.

4 hours ago, CLIFF918 said:

One of the first things I did in my 2002 Diplomat was vent the Microwave outside!

I ran into the vertical metal stud right in the center of the hole I need to create. I started with a 3" hole saw so I could see what I was getting into and discovered the vertical stud, you can see it in the center of the hole picture. I saw that there were more studs to the left and right of the area I need to cut out so I went ahead and removed the obstruction and installed the vent duct and replaced the microwave back in it's place. That was in 2002 and have had no problems and no smelly coach.

 Cliff

 

I wish my stud was in the center of the 2 holes.  But mine will be blocking about 1/2 of the right side.(total of 25% total blockage).   Definitely not idea. 

37 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

The cutout for the 02 Windsor I had done did not have anything that interfered with the exhaust opening.

I took photos on a chilly morning where the condensation showed exactly where the metal supports were located.

Have you done that?

yes.  I also have taking pictures showing the framing.   I triple measure from the inside.    I have a stud running right down the middle of where the vent would go.  I then dropped the oven down and drilled a pilot hole from inside the cabinet.    Hit the metal stud.

I was expecting just luan covering the metal stud, but I had to drill  through 3/4" plywood that has the wallpaper attached.  Really quite stout.   I assume this plywood continues across the whole wall and the  upper cabinets attach to it.  

You guys that did this project, and ran into a wall stud in middle of the vent, what is the consensus?   Cut it out and don't worry about it?  Or abandon the project and leave things alone?

22 minutes ago, Gweedo said:

Isn't Julian west of Ocotillo?   i'm coming from AZ, which shows the 87 south form Blythe goes through Bawley I think,  

 

Your correct.  Julian is WEST of Ocotillo.  That won't effect you.  78 (not the 87) goes right through Glamis.  Many 45' coaches with stacker trailers, large 5'ver toy boxes,  and everything else you can imagine, have Glamis as their destination.  It's a sand dune mecca for off roaders and some say the largest sand dunes for recreational use in the country.  (not sure about that claim, however)    It's been a couple years since I was last there, but the 78 is  a narrow, 2 lane road, but doable.   All reasonably flat.  

31 minutes ago, Doug and Nicki said:

Push them inward or outward?

The black rubber that holds the light in,  was quite pliable when new.  It could be as hard as a rock and/or very brittle now and need to be cut  enough to release the light from it's grip.  I'd be inclined to work from inside as to minimize chances of scratching the outside of coach. 

21 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Strange!

I always thought they used the last letter for the number of slides, but apparently even that isn't always the case!

Me too.   

Thanks Tom, for sharing that.     Maybe the guy that designed the brochure had dyslexia ?  

Kidding, of course.  But makes me wonder what they were thinking.  

1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:

Ha!

You must remember the long thread we had on this topic several years ago on IRV, and, every time we thought we had figured out that middle letter, someone came along to blow that theory!

Yea I do.   I think it's a mystery that went down with the ship when Monaco closed up.  

5 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Bill, my toilet room is on the passenger side 🙂.

See, that didn't take long to blow out my theory  lol.

Any now that I think about it, maybe Bill R's toilet is same.   

Is your fridge on drivers side?

11 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

I think my PDQ model is Private bath and Quad slides.

Not sure what the 'D' stands for.

Ben, @96 EVO  

here's my take on your PDQ coach.  Someone will prove me wrong, I know.

@Bill R and I have very similar coaches.  Same year, color scheme, and when we compare placement of different electronics, nearly identical.   The only difference I can figure is the center of the coach (kitchen and bathroom) is reversed.   He has the PDQ.    I have a PEQ.   I think the 'D' means the private toilet in on the drivers side.  My 'E' has the toilet on the passenger side.  What the E stands for, IDK.  Maybe "Entrance"?

But monaco wasn't consistent over all models and years. Seems like the only thing they were consistent on was the # of slides and corresponding "D, T, or Q.  (double, triple, or Quad)