Chargerman

I had a similar issue. My two fans would turn on by themselves at any odd time. I was at M&M Electronics for another issue and I mentioned the fan issue to them. He said the first likely culprit was the fluorescent light/electronic ballasts messing with the Intellitec system. He suggested I get ride of the ballasts and swap out for LED’s. I did just that and installed strips of LEDs in each fixture at a cost of about $2 a fixture. The fans never acted up again

Getting the old one out and the new one in on the forks was cake. Put it inside and two of us could easily tip it on to the forks and visa versa with the new one

Ok. First of all, thanks to everyone for the repairs and input. The old fridge compressor mounts were ok. The issue was that one or more of the internal springs must have failed and the repetitive clunking was getting worse. I did think of cutting up the fridge but since the new fridge was exactly the same dims I still would have an issue. After seeing Marks post I gave it another try but wiggling and turning it and it did come out. Thank God! It’s amazing how close they figured the dons as it is clear that a unit that was an inch deeper or 1/4” wider would not get in there. All went well after that and the new fridge is in place. Just have to connect the water and push it all the way in and secure it and then reassemble the pilots area.

So we finally decided to replace our original Fridgedaire side by side due to the continuous compressor clunking. Pulled drivers window and overhead cabinet and captains chair. Figured the worst part of the disassembly was behind me. Pulled the doors off of the fridge, disconnected and pulled it out only to discover that you cannot get the fridge out. It hits the opposing wall while still being in the cabinet by a good 3”. Now have to disassemble the opposing wall. OMG!!

About 70 miles from me

Sounds like you may have burst a coolant hose. Hopefully it is that simple and they can get you squared away tomorrow. Keep us posted and my offer is still available after that if you’d like.

Where are you currently? I am in NE Connecticut and will fix it for you if you can come to my place. Zero cost except to buy any needed fittings

Here’s a thought. What about sharing wrapping them. They make a “chrome” look material. Check with a local company that does signage/wrapping. The other benefit is they can do them in place.

As other have mentioned there should be access for behind. What’s on the other side of the wall of your shower valve? If it’s a cabinet there should be an removable access panel

Just a suggestion…. I had Dave’s firm do my mirrors a few years ago. I had them do the bases also even I had replaced them not too long before the arms started failing. Those cost in doing the bases is negligible in my opinion since you already have them apart. Guaranteed the bases will start to fail before long so why not take care of it now? BTW. My mirrors still look perfect and Space Coasts customer service was excellent!

Connecticut Motorcar and Coach is a good facility. They are in Plainville,Ct. ctmotorcars.com

I purchased my radiator from radiator supply house. They were quite a bit cheaper than Source. They first sent me the drawing to I could confirm dims then they built and had the new radiator on its way to my in two weeks. The workmanship and customer service were top notch. Though in hindsight I wish I would have tracked down a recorer to discuss it with as that route would have been ALOT less.

Thanks Bill actually need something wider. I tried a section of fuel line but it didn’t hold up long. I just tried turning the existing “tires” inside out to see how long that lasts. I’ve made some calls and it’s clear that the replacement “tires” are no longer available and haven’t been available for 5 years or so. I thing when the current setup fails I will remove the motor and install a spring pulley and actuate the curtain’s manually

Sorry but I didn’t know where to post this so I’ll put it here. Moderator please move it if needed. I have the original front curtain with a motor that drives a cord for opening and closing. The motor itself functions fine but the drive wheel are worn which allows the cord to slip. Sorry I don’t have the manufacturer at hand. Does anyone know of something that works to put on the drive wheels to replace the original “tires”. I’ve tried a small piece of properly sized fuel line but it didn’t last long. Just went out and pulled the motor off. It is made by Somfy. No longer made

Very good.

CSS I know it’s unrelated to the discussion but looking at you pic with the Jeep behind it it looks like the rear of your coach is sitting pretty low. Maybe it wasn’t at ride height? If it was you may want to check your ride height measurements

Do the gauges work properly? Is the only issue the fogged glass? If so you can remove the glass by carefully bending the crimp on the back side of the gauge with a flat blade screwdriver. Work with patience gently prying up the crimp by rotating the screwdriver. Do not try to bend it all the way on the first try. Work your way around bending it a slight bit and increasing each time around.

Current price is approx. $25/qt

It’s ok to get paint on the Dycor but it will crack over time. Not a big deal, just kind of ugly. Try to paint up to it but don’t loose sleep if you get paint on it.

I do exactly the same thing when in or near cities where there are many exits with vehicles constantly entering and exiting. To me the center lane is a safer place for me to be for all involved

I need to replace a solenoid for one of my slides. The solenoids are mounted at the pump. What trick have you guys used to remove them? I know they just unscrew but the issue is that between the hydraulic lines and the closeness of the adjacent solenoid I haven’t thought of a way to remove one. What trick did you use?

Only one driver to blame. The idiot behind the wheel of the motorhome. Yet another reason why all states should require an endorsement for motorhome drivers

I finally got back to looking into this deeper. I did find that I did not have a video signal at the rear monitor. Dug deeper into the dash and found that indeed the plug had come out of the Aladdin module. Basically no friction interference on the plug. Squeezed it a bit with pliers and back on it went. Thanks for the suggestion Garry!

Good to hear that you are here Jim. Please keep us up to date on how you make out with it

Congratulations!! I have an 2006 Exec. I may be biased but I think the front cap is the be looking of any Monaco. Best of luck with yours!