Chargerman

Huh? 🤔 Not sure what you are saying?

I really like Griots products. Their buffing compound has microbes that break down as you use them so only one product is needed for buffing out minor scratches and swirls. I the use their ceramic wax and their Speedshine for detailing. Only decent pic I have. That’s the former owner of my coach that came over for a visit this past Summer. I bought it from him 9 years ago

When I have the same issue I found that my flame sensor was bad. It’s been a handful of years but I think mine showed an open circuit when I checked it with an ohm meter. As I mentioned previously, follow the Aquahot troubleshooting guide for your model and it will help keep you from throwing money at parts. Good luck!

Best to go to the Aquahot website and go to the menu to find your model and then download the service manual and follow the directions for your specific issue

Ok thanks

I did post a photo but cannot see it unless I click on the large blank space below my post. Can you guys see it?

Got some time in the shop today and got the burner rebuilt with the new housing,bearings and nozzle. Hopefully the new tank arrives this coming week. Thanks to Mike (zmotorsports) for sharing his rebuild video which gave me some added detail insight to the rebuild process

I broke mine during my first service 9 years ago but came up with a fix to use it. Since I’m going thru the whole unit I figured it’s time to make that right also

I just recently found that my domestic loop inside the tank started leaking. Pressure tested it to confirm. So out came the unit and ordered a new tank and also a new casting for the burner as one of my clamp flanges was also compromised. Since this picture I have disassembled the unit and removed the tank and it’s currently on a skid ready to swap when the carrier delivers the new one. I looked at the exploded drawing of the burner and the replacement of the housing looks pretty straightforward but if anyone has done this job and has any insight of things that need particular attention please let me know. Thank you!

WOW!!!! So sorry to see that but happy that you’re ok. Certainly understand your concern going forward. If you want the safest type A if would be shopping for a bus. The cost will be high for a comparable year and mileage but they are built quite different Thought I’d help you Out with your shopping 😂

Over on IRV2 there is a member that has a thread titled “Mods/Upgrade to our 2003 Dynasty”. He is a very talented guy and he posted the details on replacing all of his airbags. I don’t know what page it is on but it’s certainly worth reading.

Unfortunately, when someone experiences an accident so bad that the house broke away from the chassis they likely won’t be reachable to talk about their experience.

I don’t think there is a gap. Looks like this is a wedge shim at the bottom, just to the right of the bolt. You can see it better in this picture

I think any production built motorhome that is not a commercial bus conversion/ build will basically decintergrate upon experiencing any significant impact.

The “slide locks” on the drivers side flat floor slide are actually not locks. They are there to assure that the top of this slide is pulled in tight when closed. The design of this slide allowed the slide to rock if not fully open or closed. They needed to design it this way to allow it to float down when deploying. If you loose hydraulic pressure on this or any other hydraulic slide it will have the potential of creeping out. The other slides utilize an X brace design which keeps the top and bottom solidly aligned so this mechanism is not required

I don’t know the details of the design other than the fact that they state that it will fit in a 4” tube. I saw them at a camp store the other day but I didn’t open the box

The new Camco Extreme they just came out with will fit in a 4” storage sleeve

I ended up mounting a 5” PVC square fence post cover on top of the side of the storage bay slide for my stinky slinky but I see that Rhino just came out with a new hose that will fit in a 4” tube so I will get a set of those.

Just a clarification…….The factory Navigator taillights will fit with the same modification that has to be done with other aftermarket units. I didn’t like the look of the factory installed “European” ones so I went with the factory red ones

Tom As always you are Johnny on the spot with the details and I thank you for that. I did find the black and have a tube on the way. My window was not foggy, I had to remove it to replace my fridge and I’m not happy with the sealant I used when installing it. My window was foggy at one point and I removed it, cleaned the glass and resealed and assembled it. This is the material I used between the panes: https://www.dkhardware.com/black-3-16-wide-edgetech-super-spacer-66-foot-roll-alum-ss31666bl-vcp-1-product-89317.html They are not “sealed” like home glass units but the size of the drives side unit does make it a little challenging. In my opinion, unless you have good confidence in your mechanical aptitude, I would take it to someone who has real experience in doing this work

Will do. Thanks for the heads up I don’t see Proflex in black?

Thank you Scotty. I do have new butyl tape to use and look for where I can get Proflex Thank you for the info and for the hard work you and others do in maintaining this fantastic forum. It is very much appreciated by all of us.

I need to reset my Drivers side window and am looking for what is the best chalk/sealant to put around the perimeter once installed.

Yes, that is correct, ECM on engine and transmission need to be disconnected per Monaco.

And their work is amazing!