Chargerman

I would think that you have the X Brace slide mechanisms. They are painful to adjust. You would have to remove the inside side valance to expose the brace. Open the slide and get some blocking etc along with a jack so that you can lift the front of the slide some. Unbolt the X Brace and lift it so that you can insert a shim under it the thickness that you need to move. I would try 1/2” first. Refasten the brace, remove jack and give it a try. Adjust the shim thickness if needed.

I would think that would work for you. Just be patient and follow the same method.

Pipe Break is an amazing product. Its price has gone crazy but it is so good it’s still worth it in my mind. Have been using it for years. As mentioned if you try it let it soak and reapply occasionally and tap with a hammer to help it along then work the bearing back and forth if you can reach it. Pretty certain you will be successful.

Mine were real bad a few years ago and I lubed the heck out of them with Pipe Break and after sitting a bit soaking in worked them back and forth and they have worked fine since. I give them a sqiurt about once a year. Sure wish they would have used sealed bearings

Thank you Tom. You’re always on the case and myself and everyone really appreciates it. We are traveling as of this morning and the signals have functioned fine. I will dig in when and if it ever occurs again. I will pull down the drawings so I have them at hand. Much appreciated!!!

In my case this is the first time it has happened. I did check my brake lights and they worked fine. I never found a fuse label for the signal lights. I also did shut off the batteries to see if that would have reset the brain but that didn’t work. One funny thing that I have never understood is that my signals always have worked with the key off. Fingers crossed that they cooperate when I go out this morning

Just went in pulled headlight switch. All lights on. High beam also works. Then tried signals again and they work. WTH?

Just getting ready to head out in the morning and just found that signal lights don’t work. Checked from and rear runway for a fuse issue and all are good. Any help with direction would be appreciated. Just went in pulled headlight switch. All lights on. High beam also works. Then tried signals again and they work. WTH?

That is awesome. What was in that cabinet previously? Wish I had a similar cabinet to do that. Great job!

I’m referring to the Monaco placard this has been shown and finding it hard to understand how they would have come up with a higher recommended pressure for the rears. My feeling is that it’s an error and am curious if anyone with a single rear axle coach has ever had to run higher pressures in the rear. We can come up with possible scenarios where a higher pressure would be needed such as hauling a lunar rock collection around the country 😂 but I’m wondering if anyone has had to run higher rear pressures based on scale weights. Feeling pretty sure that the answer is no.

What makes perfect sense?

To your point “with duals you have less loading so less pressure would be needed. I’m not understanding how a coach could be so heavily loaded on the rear duals that more pressure would be need in them than the front. Has anyone here had to use higher pressure in your duals based on scale readings?

Yes, doesn’t make much sense

My 06 doesn’t have cargo door switches since none of the doors open upwards therefore they cannot be hit by a slide.

It’s because your fronts are single and your rears are dual therefore the fronts are each carrying more weight than each rear tire

There you go. A great replacement for the incandescent storage bay lights. 👍

Those things are awesome. Don’t know what I’ll use them for but I have to order them. Might be good in the engine bay or in the front generator bay.

I have flat towed a pickup for 8+ years. I am very peticular with me vehicles and I have never noticed and damage to my vehicles towing them. It is certainly easier dealing with a towed over a trailer and would highly recommend it.

No worries. Load up and go. There’s a rare chance that you would get stopped if you were significantly over but a few feet won’t catch anyone’s attention

I have used Remflex gaskets on my car builds when installing headers for years. They are fantastic and I would recommend them highly. Have never had one fail or leak ever. Be sure to use a center out torque pattern and increase the torque 5lbs at a time.

Great to hear that everything worked out well!

Would be nice to hear an update from you Jack.

I had a similar issue. My two fans would turn on by themselves at any odd time. I was at M&M Electronics for another issue and I mentioned the fan issue to them. He said the first likely culprit was the fluorescent light/electronic ballasts messing with the Intellitec system. He suggested I get ride of the ballasts and swap out for LED’s. I did just that and installed strips of LEDs in each fixture at a cost of about $2 a fixture. The fans never acted up again

Getting the old one out and the new one in on the forks was cake. Put it inside and two of us could easily tip it on to the forks and visa versa with the new one

Ok. First of all, thanks to everyone for the repairs and input. The old fridge compressor mounts were ok. The issue was that one or more of the internal springs must have failed and the repetitive clunking was getting worse. I did think of cutting up the fridge but since the new fridge was exactly the same dims I still would have an issue. After seeing Marks post I gave it another try but wiggling and turning it and it did come out. Thank God! It’s amazing how close they figured the dons as it is clear that a unit that was an inch deeper or 1/4” wider would not get in there. All went well after that and the new fridge is in place. Just have to connect the water and push it all the way in and secure it and then reassemble the pilots area.