Chargerman

Considering how many Aquahots are out there and how few the problems are in proportion I think it’s a stretch to call them a P.O.S. In 8 years I have had one problem. The electric eye failed. An easy fix. I just followed the manufacturer’s details troubleshooting guide. Not knocking the Rixen unit at all but what’s to say it’s better?

Kevin, THANK YOU!!!!! I certainly know of them but I had not thought to check them for the gauge. They have it!!! Can’t believe it. I had given up hope of finding one. So awesome! Made my day!

Congrats. I wish Faria would support their gauges the same way. I’ve checked a few salvage yards for a replacement gauge. So far no luck.

On mine these is a wood trim piece right above the fridge. I removed that and the metal plate that as behind it and my fridge rolled out with a little bit of side to side wiggling

X2 on the Seelevel system. Works great. Very accurate.

As Ivan mentioned, there are portable crumpets that will work for your issue. It’s just a matter of tracking down someone who has one. Not sure about this one but there may be a two piece fitting that works via assembly compression. See if there’s a Parker Store/supply house near your location. They will likely be able to help you.

So I got back down to the coach. Started by getting on the roof to check the fuse that Al mentioned. These are new Penguin II units. There is not a fuse at the controller in these units. I checked the 110voltage while I was there and all was good. I then went inside and lowered the ceiling valance and removed the filter and there it was 😳. Clearly when I zip tied all of the wires together the plug for the thermostat wasn’t happy. Pulled a little slack and plugged it in. All is well. Whew. We all need a simple win now and then

Same builder. Bliksem, Your coach was likely a custom order as they were only building to order at that time as I understand it.

Thanks. I will check that fuse tomorrow. Didn’t make it down to continue my search today

I had forgotten about the small fuse panel in the wardrobe closet where the Intellitec modules are located. The is a 2amp fuse labels “A/C controller”. Fuse is good. Rear A/C and thermostat function properly. Swapped out the rear thermostat for the front one. Front thermostat works on rear unit. Going to look at the A/C connections in the ceiling at the new unit tomorrow. Thinking maybe a wire or the phone cable plug may have disconnected when I was securing the wire bundle.

I installed a new A/C and a CCC2 thermostat a short time ago. Ran fine after installing. Coach has been in storage and I went down to do a few things. Thermostat has no power. Is there a fuse for it somewhere. Checked front and rear bays. Nothing there

As Dave mentioned, how did the fuel get in the crankcase, has that issue been resolved? If unknown I wouldn’t drive it any distance before rectifying. Severe damage can result.

We will be attending the show for the first time.

Good to know. Thanks

When I first bought our Coach the dash A/C didn’t work. The guy that I first brought it to to charge it quickly determined it was a bad compressor. He also said there was a lot of crap in the lines and thought I would need a new condenser also. He said to remove the dryer and the lower line off of the condenser. Then get a few cans of brake cleaner spray a bunch in a line and blow it through with compressed air. I did that a bunch of times to both line until clean. Then installed a new dryer and compressor and brought the Coach back to him to charge the system. That was seven years ago and it still blows cold air today.

Frank was quick to reply. Here is his reply. I did confirm that my gauges are Faria. Going to call them in the morning to see if they can repair mine. I couldn’t find anyone else that repairs Faria gauges. If they won’t look at it I’ll start searching for one at at used RV parts seller This gauge cluster is all multiplexed together. Inside one of the gauges, typically the module with idiot lights will contain the computer that sorts out the J1939 engine/trans databus info and then sends it digitally to all the dash cluster gauges. Since you have 2 out of the 4 gauges within that module not working, it is extremely likely to be a problem with just that module. It would be very unlikely for it to be the computer module but it is possible. One thing you could do is to call around to salvage yards to see if they have one. The other option is via Google, find a repair shop. Here is a link that might work. https://fariabeede.com/2-pages/home.php You mentioned having Ferris gauges. Are you sure they aren't Faria Beede gauges? Have you looked at the rear of the gauges? It likely has just one plug with wires that daisy chain one gauge module to the next. Frank

Thank you bringing my inquiry into this thread. I didn’t see the module pictured behind my dash. I inquired with Frank regarding any suggested direction. I will post his thoughts when I hear from him. Thank you Richard for suggesting to contact Frank.

Moderator EDIT There have been many topics dedicated to dash gauge issues. Did a search of Gauge in Topics. This one is the most helpful and almost mirrors the new topic just posted. Very comprehensive on steps and items to followup on and check out. This new topic has been merged with the original one, ORIGINAL POST 2006 Executive. Just recently my engine and trans temp gauges stopped moving. These two gauges are within a single gauge that has 4 separate functions. The other two within that gauge work fine. Aladdin still reads accurate readings for both Engine and trans temps. I removed and replaced the connections on the gauge. Any advice on next steps?

The real issue is the chrome process that Velvac uses is poor and purchasing replacement ones will end with the same result. Space Coast uses a superior process that will far outlast what Velvac does and they stand behind their work without question.

A picture would help. If they are chrome then I would contact Space Coast Plating in Fl. I sent mine to them a couple years ago and the y swapped them out for a set that they had reworked and kept in stock. They’re workmanship and quality it top shelf. At the time it cost me about $600 for both arms and both bases.

There usually is a proximity switch located somewhere underneath the step near the inside that senses when the steps are in. Easiest to find with the steps out. Sometimes the switch or the pickup fall off

The absolute last place I would take it would be a Camping World Service Center. Their knowledge, while also limited is around travel trailers and lower end gas motor homes. They will be guessing on everything regarding your rig.

I just replaced my A/C units with Penguin 2 units. I went with the Dometic CCC2 thermostats to replace the original 5 button. Plug and play and all original functionality is retained

The new Ccc2 thermostat arrived Saturday so today I replaced the front A/C unit. The swap went well without any unexpected challenges. I swapped out the thermostat and was pleasantly surprised that it was as easy as just transferring the phone jack style cord over to the new thermostat. When I started it up and realized that it did not display “Furnace” I found that I had to go back up and flip the furnace dip switch on both new units. After that the furnace was present and both new units ran fine under all of the modes. Check that one off the never ending list.

I had a very good experience with Radiator Supply House. The price is steep but about $1000 cheaper than what their competitor quoted me. Always be sure you ask what material the radiator is made of that someone is quoting you and be sure to stay away from aluminum even though the price may seem like a deal.