Frank McElroy

Have you checked to see if the water valve on the hot water hose from the engine to the heater is fully opening? Both hoses connected to the heater should be near the engine temperature with the hose leaving the heater a bit cooler.

Here is more information about what happened. The author Tal, was in his coach at the time when he smelled an electrical fire and luckily for him the first thing he did was to disconnect his batteries. But by then the damage was already done. At the time, the auto air leveling system was trying to operate along with the aux air compressor. My hutch is that multilayered circuit board traces couldn't handle the load and shorted out. When that happened, up to 300 amps of battery power went to the board and never tripped the breakers in the rrb. This all happened when Tal was about 2,000 miles from home. I was able to help him bypass certain sections of the board to give him enough critical components so he could safely drive the coach home. In trying to source a board from a salvage yard it became obvious that a fire starting in the frb destroyed other coaches. So, the decision was made to build a replacement board this time with proper fuse protection. He then hand wired his own board using the same connectors so it was plug and play. A parts list is given in the document. The monaco schematics were perfect. No errors that I recall. To add additional safety, he also fused the 12 volt feed to each connector. This was not done on the original board. Hope this information will help others with a Monaco chassis multiplex coach.

I would hope that for the price they charged, M&M actually rebuilt and upgraded the failed components inside the CCM module. Adding an external 12 to 5 volt supply properly fused in my opinion is a better solution. Unfortunately, the +5v supply that feeds the smartwheel is a weak link in the system. Based on problems I'm seeing with the chassis multiplex system, there are two main issues. One is the weak +5v supply from the CCM module and the other one is a short on the large printed circuit board. If that happens, the board will catch fire. I highly recommend that battery power to this board be properly fused. Monaco did not properly protect this board from receiving up to 300 amps of battery power. Here is a link to the file describing how to rebuild this board should it fail and how to add proper circuit breaker protection.

Van, thank you for the kind words. I'm very pleased with how the download files turned out. Our new site offers a lot of flexibility and features such as categories and sub categories to organize our files. We now have about double the number of files vs what we had in the old Yahoo group and they are organized and searchable. Having screen shots of the front page is also a nice feature of our new site. I try to help on the newer coaches and systems like mine that I know. We are very fortunate to have folks on the group that cover a wide range of model years and it's great that they too share their knowledge to help others. Merry Christmas!

Brett, thank you for posting the solution to this problem. I'm sure it will help others in the future. Also, thank you for the kind words - glad I could help.

Thank you for sending me the 50 page 2006 Knight wiring diagrams. I posted it along with a screen shot of the first page to Downloads in the category Electrical Systems/Wiring Diagrams.

Thanks for the reply. Send an attached file to frank@monacoers.org and I'll post it.

Highwayman - I'd like to add these diagram to the group files. Can you post them there or send me a copy and I'll post them.

Was that muffler bearing in the same box with the blinker oil?

Brett, it's time we took the detailed discussion offline. I sent a reply to your email address.

Brett, all those voltages when keys are pressed are way too low. I think Fred's suggestion that +5 feed voltage going to the keypads is likely running low when a keypad is pressed. You can verify by measuring the voltage on the red wire. It should stay at 5 volts when you press a key. Also the white wire on that same plug should stay at 0 volts when a key is pressed.

Those voltages are measured with J1 still plugged in. This would be between pin 24 to ground and pin 25 to ground as you press an hold each button. By any chance did you record the exact reading you got from the connector at the steering column and did you verify +5 volts and ground as you pressed each button? Years ago I had a similar case that was solved by just reseating that plug connection at the base of the steering wheel.

Fred good to know. The 5 volts comes from the CCM and feeds the steering wheel keypads. A bad supply power or a bad ground will show up as incorrect voltages on those two control wires when keypads are pressed. Brett should know soon. Good to know that M&M was able to fix the problem.

Yes, the test is done by taking voltage reading while holding down each button. Just like you did under the dash. You could try disconnecting the batteries to reboot but I doubt this will fix the problem. Send me an offline email with a table of the voltage readings at the CCM as each smartwheel button is pressed and I help troubleshoot.

Brett, great question. I know M&M in Ohio is trying to help someone I know with a chassis multiplex dash switch issue but they are on a very steep learning curve. They are good with intellitec house lighting multiplex systems but the chassis multiplex system is a different animal entirely. Unlike the intellitec system, unless a shop has the Kongsberg Cadet software you can't read or troubleshoot the CCM system. You also need the Eaton software to troubleshoot, read and program the dash switch master and slave control boards that are under each set of 3 dash switches. Yep, all your dash switches are also on another multiplex system that feeds the CCM module. This gets complicated really fast. Back when this first came out the kongsberg software was free but now they want about $500 for it. Eaton software used to be free also but don't know now if it is still available. I know there is a Monaco service center on the west coast that is good but the location escapes me. In your case, I'd first measure voltages on the pins I mentioned and verify grounds and the wiper fuse under the ccm cover. Right now you know more about the system than most any other repair shop except for the two I know about. You could try calling a shop and ask them if they have the cadet software to troubleshoot kongsberg chassis multiplex systems. If they say what are you talking about, well that's an answer.

Brett, I thought it might be useful to attach the pertinent pdf wiring diagram files. They are all in the downloads but sometimes specific diagrams might be hard to find especially when certain higher end coaches like yours and mine might have well over 100 file pages of schematics. These schematics also show how the steering wheel keypads are connected to the CCM module on a multiplex chassis coach like yours without the smart wheel control box. Let's hope that this is not a failed CCM. That module is obsolete and virtually impossible to find in a salvage yard. The OEM (Kongsberg) will not program a new one either. A few months back I did find one at Visone RV in Kentucky - they know the value of this critical obsolete part and wanted $10,000 for it!!! The CCM is the brains of the chassis multiplex system. If it should ever completely fail about your only option is to try to have it rebuilt assuming its an internal bad relay or use your coach permanently parked in a campground. 38080795_B Wipers.pdf 38090532 Cruise Control.pdf 03215100_A Vehicle Cabin PCB Label.pdf 27000652_B Vehicle Cabin PCB.pdf CCM fuses front and rear.pdf

I would verify the voltages on ccm connector J1 pins 24 and 25 and compare them to the table in the smartwheel manual as you press each smart wheel button. They need to be a near exact match. A loose ground will mess up the lower reading voltages and the wipers are most sensitive to a loose ground while the other are not. Also, have you verified that the wiper fuse under the ccm cover is OK? Keep in mind that the large PCB in the front run bay is problematic. A number have shorted causing a fire. This is documented in the downloads and how to properly fuse the battery feeds to this PCB. So, look very closely to make sure you see no burn marks on this board.

Brett, you have a chassis multiplex system. ALL the controls that are in the smart wheel control box are programmed into your CCM module in the front run bay. So on your coach, you do NOT have a smart wheel controller. The steering wheel keypads work by supplying certain voltages on two wires that run from the keypads through the clock spring to the CCM module. The voltages listed in the smart wheel troubleshooting guide would be the same inputs to your ccm module (connector J1, pins 24 & 25). It is critical that there is a good ground and a clean connector at the base of the steering wheel. It is also critical that you verified that the clock spring in the steering column has continuity with no shorts or dead spots through complete wheel rotation. If you can't find the troubleshooting documentation in the downloads section, let me know.

I don't believe that your Endeavor has a keypad entry access feature - so, the good news is that you don't need to learn about it. My main reason for the post is to alert others who have keypad access systems to either be sure they change both their Access AND Authority codes from the default codes or at a minimum always use the door dead bolt lock to at least help protect against entry into their coach (although bins could still be opened). Yes, anyone can get in by breaking a window but why make it easy by just using default access/authority codes on keypad entry systems.

Thanks Scotty - I added the 120VAC wiring diagram to the existing 2006 Diplomat 12VDC wiring diagram file. That way, both the 12VDC and 120VAC wiring diagrams are under the 2006 Diplomat wiring diagrams.

Woody, Most folks don't realize that there are two sets of keyless codes. One set is called the Access Code that you use to unlock your coach and bins and you can have up to 5 different access codes. The other code is called the Authority code. This code will allow you to change the Access codes even if the coach is locked! So, if you still have the default Authority code, I could set a new Access code and open your bins or even open your coach if your deadbolt lock isn't set. Or I could delete your own Access codes. If this is a new to you coach, I strongly recommend that you delete ALL Access codes, AND change both the default Authority AND set new Access codes on your keypad system to codes that are NOT the default codes. This is all explained in the files document. UM12_22271-02_2012-04_Rev_5.pdf

John, I sent you a private message to call me. You mentioned that you checked a 5 amp fuse and I'm thinking it is the one labeled Batt+ Instrument F-26. I'm wondering if you also checked the Ign+ Instruments, fuel sndr F31 10 Amp fuse.

I attached a clearer pdf file detailing the Medallion connections. Key is to verify on connector G that pin 13 gets battery voltage, pin 11 battery voltage with ignition on, and pin 15 ground. This will power up your gauges. If the LCD screen works but the gauges don't then focus on connector H wiring which is the Medallion databus for all the gauges. A bad ignition switch could very likely not be providing power to connector G pin 11. That is easy to verify and hopefully your tech has already done that. Since I never take my coach to a shop, I'll let others comment on the repair cost. Although it is typical to pay a reasonable diagnostics cost. It becomes a lot more complicated if the tech is trying to fix a system that they don't know. M3 ILB system connectors_pinouts (1).pdf

I took that picture of the rear of the module by opening an access panel on the top of the dash. Those connections are on the rear of the Medallion LCD display module. That pin out connection diagram shows both the front and rear of that module. Hopefully your camelot has a similar access panel on top of your dash like what I have on my Dynasty.

Since you just had your batteries replaced I would first verify that all the battery connecting cables are tight and that you have power to other dash components and that it's just the instrument gauges that don't work. If I recall correctly, you have a Medallion instrument cluster with a rectangular ILB display module that contains a LCD display and warning lights. If that is the case and if nothing works, I'd focus on the 4 pin power connector on this display module. All your electronic dash gauges feed off this module. The pin out diagram and the attached picture of that 4 pin connector should help you troubleshoot if you have this setup.