Frank McElroy

A very useful site is Cummins Quickserve. https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html You can setup an account for free, enter your engine serial number and get very specific information on your engine including error codes and troubleshooting/repair procedures.

I also have a Tecma. A few years back one of the grandkids through in a baby wipe and pressed the flush button while my wife was saying NOOO - too late... Anyway, it took about 30 minutes to remove the 4 bolts off the floor, remove the macerator from the toilet base, clean out the baby wipe that was shredded around the macerator blades and reassemble. I didn't need to replace any parts.

OK, you have a hydro-boost system. Yes there is valving inside the boost cylinder. Unfortunately I gave away all my troubleshooting and service manuals to the new owner when I sold my old coach. I did a quick search online and I see a lot of technical information on your hydro-max booster including replacement parts and rebuild kits if your inclined to tackle the project yourself. Otherwise a heavy duty truck shop that does hydroboost brakes should be able to fix the problem. I'm assuming that you already checked the hydraulic fluid level and other that this new noise, the brakes are operating normally with no increased pedal effort to stop.

Many years ago I had a 1989 40' Winnebago tag axle gasser with an engine operated hydraulic boost brake system. The electric pump was the backup system so you would have power brakes if the engine stalled. With the engine off, if you press hard on the brakes with the ignition on, you should hear the electric boost motor. If you are hearing the same electric boost motor running while the engine is on, that means that your engine brake boost pump is not working properly. Possibly a loose belt or low fluid. At least that's how the system operated on my old coach. The system was OK but it was like driving a car without power brakes. This was a major reason why my next coach was a diesel pusher with air brakes.

I use the water miser caps. Battery compartment stays clean with no corrosion. I fill batteries about half way above the plates to the max fill ring. With the battery miser caps, I'll go 6-9 months before needing to add water.

Steve - Good post. Very informative on how you went about troubleshooting and more than likely how you solved the problem. I'll check that ground trans connection next time I'm under the coach doing annual maintenance.

Thanks Walt, I'll add it to the list on the next update.

Take a look at the tank bottom. If a dual tank there will be a bottom drain for the passenger side which is the wet side and another bottom drain for the drivers side which is the dry side. Inside the tank there is an internal check valve connecting the wet to the dry tank. I think I might have part numbers in my file. I'll look.

That tank is likely a dual wet/dry tank like it is on my 2008 Dynasty. There is likely a stamped label on the tank from the manufacturer with a part number.

I'll jump in. When you say that you press the key pad buttons and hear nothing, I take it that you also don't hear the hydraulic pump starting either. The switch pad is sending a signal to the rear multiplex panel and when you press and hold the keypad is the LED light on the rear module lighting next to the slide in or slide out control wire? If it is, then the keypad is working just fine. Your issue is power to the hydraulic pump. Look at the rear modules and there will be a relay for that pump. Is it also lighting when you hold the keypad? If so, and if all other hydraulic slides don't work, it is very likely that the hydraulic pump starter relay strapped to the hydraulic pump is bad. I know I'm jumping in a bit late so correct me if you already covered some of my questions.

Woody, yes, those frame rail covers are accessed from the storage bin ceiling. I'm not sure on your coach whether the fuel tank is just behind the steer axle like mine or mounted mid ship. In my case the first bin behind the fuel tank had lots of gaps where wires and hoses are run. After seeing all the other electronics and fuses hidden up between the frame rails, and wanting to have easy access, I didn't replace the ceiling frame rail covers. The picture I showed looking down where I added a rubber gasket to fill the gap at the bottom of the PS slide was after I unscrewed the interior cabinet floor and another cover screwed to the top of the floor cover. Once you unscrewed and removed the interior covers you will have access to the top cover covering the bottom slide centering rail. This cover is only held in place with black caulk. I used screws to replace this plastic cover. Removing those cabinet floor panels will also give you access to the hidden aquahot blower and the 12 volt ground bar connections.

Take a look at the wiring diagrams for your 2008 Dynasty in the downloads files section. There are wiring schematics for how the fireplace option is wired to the panel and how it was wired in the slideout including a micro switch and relay to prevent it from operating when the slide is in.

Although I have also adjusted TRW gearboxes without removing the drag link, one needs to be careful not to over tighten the shaft adjusting screw in the thinking that gee I still have a slight amount of steering play so I'll just tighten it a bit more. If after making the adjustment you find that while driving the coach it takes more effort to move the steering wheel, you overtightened the shaft adjusting screw. In practice, I stop turning the screw when there is no additional improvement in steering wheel play. Also, it doesn't take much in turning the adjusting screw to change steering wheel play. Yes, its critical that you check to make sure that the gearbox shaft is centered. Being centered will have the least amount of steering wheel play.

There are procedures in the Download Files. Here is a link. There are other files on the TRW gearbox that are even more detailed including the TRW Service manual.

Woody - Based on your description, I would check a few areas. Up under the dash where the wood plywood meets the front cover accessible when the generator is open. This gap was large enough for me to fit in my hand. I filled it with black spray foam. Open the access cover under the drivers window and do the same for the wiring coming up through the floor from the FRB. The other areas to check are where wires and piping enter the first and last storage bins. Pull off the frame rail cover up front and look at the exterior of the last bin ahead of the drive axle. I needed to add foam to plug the gaps. Black foam used for landscape waterfall rocks sold in big box stores (HD and Lowes) will match the same black foam used by Monaco. The other gap a found was under the front PS slide. It is to keep the slide in position while moving in and out. I got tired of stuffing fiberglass insulation in there every time I moved out the slide to stop the air leaks. (Same for under the PS rear slide.) I attached a few pictures because pictures are worth a thousand words. On the slide seal, the slide gasket I'm holding down will seal the lower gap in the picture after I added the rubber gasket in front of the slide centering mechanism. BTW, all these air leaks were found when we were living in our coach during freezing weather - The things we do for our children. I would say that sealing these leaks made a HUGE difference in both heating and cooling our coach.

Well there is no simple answer. It all depends on the ECM code and for me to give you an answer, I need the code number. Some codes will stay active until you complete a successful drive cycle and then it will clear. Others will clear as soon as the component is replaced. But, if you replaced the component and you still have a stop engine red code do not drive the coach. Even if its a yellow check engine code, you need to know the code number in order to decide if it's OK to drive the coach without it derating. I wish that I could be more helpful.

If you have full throttle response then drive the coach. If you don't have the software to clear the code, it should clear by driving the coach. But it may take multiple drive cycles to clear an old code. But if you still have a red stop engine light, something else is going on. What codes are being shown by the ECM?

When you say you had your " 'ring and pinion' (?) freeze/lock up and when it broke loose it made an awful jerk and thump" what do you mean. Were the rear brakes rusted to the drums and they broke loose or do you mean you actually had a failed rear end or a broken u-joint? If it was the latter and the drive shaft was loose then I would first look for damaged wiring hit by the drive shaft.

Go to Browse - select Downloads - select Categories - Parts List is on top. Here is a link. https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/16-parts-list/

An important clue is you said that hydraulic fluid leaks out when you operate any slide out. This likely means that the hydraulic line going from the pump manifold to the rear slide synchronizing cylinder is bad. That line likely connects to the side of the manifold where it tees into a synchronization line from another slide. Whenever a slide is commanded to retract or extend, the hydraulic lines going to the other slide synchronizing cylinders would be pressurized so it makes sense that the hydraulic line going to the rear synchronization cylinder is bad. You would need find a hydraulic fitting cap with the proper threads to cap off the end of the tee. http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr701010.html

For each slide there is an extend and return line. They can be capped at the manifold pump. If you release the retract solenoid for the front slide, a few strong bodies should be needed to push in this slide. Don't push on the slide flange Once the slide is in be sure to close the release solenoid valve.

Tom - Have you looked at the fresh air intake door flap on the exterior side of your dash HVAC box. It would be interesting to find out if you see any of those black flakes being sucked into the system. Yes, when we were using our coach in freezing temperatures, it was really easy to find all the air leaks from under the dash and the control panel under the drivers side window where wiring enters through the floor. When its freezing outside and your coach is heated, just turn on the vent fans. It's really easy to find air leaks that way and boy did I have air leaks! If I recall correctly, it took a couple of cans of black spray foam to seal the air leaks. Largest leak was the dash plywood up near the front cap. This was an easy fix with the generator door open and through the side access panel below the drivers side window. Sealing these air leaks made a huge difference when traveling in very hot or very cold weather.

Tag axle coaches can be safely towed. However on tag axle coaches and coaches with air leveling systems it's critical that the leveling system be turned on and set to travel mode while being towed. If the system is turned off (or your battery goes dead), the air suspension will default to level mode and you run the risk of twisting the chassis and cracking the windshield. The air supplied from the wrecker to release the parking brakes will also supply air for the suspension. It would be good to review the towing procedure options in your coach owners manual.

Steve - When looking up Cummins fault codes you need to use the Cummins fault code number. 223 is not a Cummins Number - it is a PID/SID number. A 223-3 code maps over to either Cummins number 293 or 297. So, using the other file for troubleshooting cummins fault codes, 297 pops up on page 65. It is for the OEM Pressure Sensor Circuit. But I would first use the Cummins Insite software to determine the exact Cummins fault code directly and then if you verified its actually fault code 297, follow the Cummins Troubleshooting procedure page 265 to resolve the issue.

For future reference, I posts one of the better list of PID/SID FMI fault codes and how they map over to OEM fault codes. Covers, Cat, Cummins, DD and our ABS systems.