Frank McElroy

When a keypad indicator light turns ON after pressing it, it ONLY means that the keypad was pressed and the Intellitec CPU acknowledged that it was pressed by turning ON the indicator light. It does NOT mean that, in this case, the generator ever started - it was ASSUMED to have started. Press the keypad again and the indicator light should go out.

With the Toyos I didn't notice any smell different then any other new set of tires.

If you have a voltmeter with a clamp amp meter, you could easily measure the current on that wire. That would be an easy way to know how much current is being drawn. Also, I think that wire runs through one of the large connectors on the side of the FRB. Make sure there is no corrosion inside that connector. Corrosion will add resistance and draw more amps. Same for the connection plug on the blower resistor block.

If you are saying that the fan works at certain positions and then in other positions the circuit breaker trips, that sounds like a short. I'd check the fan resistor block to see if it's shorted. To check to see if you have a weak auto-resetable CB, connect the wire from PCB #10 feeding the HVAC controller through a separate 30 amp fuse (in effect bypassing the 30 amp CB). If the fuse blows you know you have a short. If the fuse doesn't blow and the fan works in all positions then you have a weak CB.

If you are saying that you have no input power to PCB #10 feeding the CB that feeds the HVAC, then trace back to check the power cable feeding that PCB. If you have power feeding the PCB but no power feeding the HVAC CB, then the PCB could be defective.

The one thing I noticed in keeping the garage at about 50% humidity year round, nothing rusts. The metal disk brakes are still nice and shiny even though the coach was last driven 6 months ago.

After 9 years mine looked new inside.

Mike, I had pretty much the same experience as you did. Last year I replaced my 9 year old Michelin energy tires with Toyo tires. The Michelins had no side wall cracking. Over the 9 years I put on about 40,000 miles and sold them to a trucker for $100 each. Like you, my coach sits in a garage where I keep the humidity at about 50%. I just couldn't justify the high cost of Michelin tires.

Cummings uses codes based on those generated from their own proprietary Insite software. You will find conversion tables on the internet but are you sure Silverleaf is seeing engine code spn 94 fmi 42? I don't see this as mapping over to a Cummins code based on a quick internet search. Typically fuel delivery pressure codes are associated with a fuel filter plugging, or a flue pressure sensor/electronic signal issue.

A set of wiring diagrams is in our Download files. Here's a link.

Sounds to me like you're not getting power to that board. Are you getting power to the FRB? Batteries good? Breakers in the RRB that feed the FRB good?

Thank you for the background information. The good news is that 2007 model year coaches were some of the best coaches made by Monaco. If you don't already have it, attached is a copy of the owners manual and brochure for your coach. It has a huge amount of important information and well worth your time reading it. On this site in the downloads files you will also find a set of wiring diagrams, technical tips, and the parts list. Welcome to the forum. 2007_Dynasty.pdf 1476904560_brc_pdf.pdf

It's very unlikely that a replacement solenoid caused fluid to be that low. I'd check each of the 7 hydraulic cylinder hose ends and each of the 3 equalization cylinder hose ends connections for leaks. If you find no leaks - great. If you do then you can repair the problem hose. You absolutely either have a leak or a previous owner did a repair of a hose or cylinder and the repair shop didn't do the repair correctly to be sure the fluid tank was filled. When you first got the coach, did you or your service dealer do a fluid level check as part of your maintenance procedure to know that the system was at the proper full level as described in your owners manual?

I use the ring you circled as the max oil level line with the cap screwed all the way into the top of the tank. If you have oil between that ring and the bottom end of the cap you should be just fine. But no higher than that ring you circled. However, losing that much oil means you have a leak. HWH did have issues with the hydraulic hoses and the tank itself cracking. You need to check all the hydraulic hoses going to the cylinders on the 4 slides and the 3 equalization cylinders on the room slide cylinders as well as the hoses to the manifold to find the leak.

Yes, you want to check the oil level when all the slide hydraulic cylinders are retracted. That means, the flat floor wall slide and the generator slide need to be retracted. But, HWH is correct - the X-Slide mechanisms MUST be extended in order to have the slide hydraulic cylinders retracted. So on my coach, according to HWH, two PS slides need to be extended and two slides (flat floor and generator) retracted. In reality the volume of oil in the larger diameter equalization cylinder pushing the piston shaft to retract the slide cylinders is likely pretty close to the volume in the slide cylinders used to extend them. The hydraulic fluid on the slide cylinder shaft side is the same hydraulic fluid on equalization cylinder shaft side and it doesn't go to the tank. So, it looks like Monaco made it simple by saying to have all slides retracted but the oil level can be no higher than 1/2" to the top of the tank. I never had an oil overflow problem. Yes, if you have hydraulic leveling jacks, you check oil level when they are retracted. HWH Operators Manual ml31726.pdf

I have nearly the same situation as you do but it is the top rear that doesn't seal as well as the top towards the front of the coach when the slide is fully extended. On my slide, most of the weight is towards the front where the sofa is located. The rear end of that slide only has the table and chairs. What I did discover is that if I stood on the rear portion of the slide and it was enough added weight to tilt out the slide corner just a bit to seal the top of the slide to the wall and it stays sealed. The extra weight was enough to tweak this drop-down slide enough to seal it. But, one thing I did notice is that when Monaco mounted the inside top seal on the slide the distance between this top seal is off a bit with the rear top corner being about 1/4" farther away from the wall. Duh - no wonder why it didn't easily seal. It's always been on my to-do list to relocate that seal but it never reached the top of my priority list.

My engine hatch assembly must be different than yours. On mine I removed the bottom bolt on each side. That allowed the door to tilt enough to attach the gas strut without compressing it.

I recall about a year after taking delivery that I had a strut go bad. Monaco shipped me two new ones. At the time what I did was to remove part of the hinge assembly so that the strut could be attached fully extended and then I used ratchet straps to pull the door into position to replace the part I removed. Now, that was about 16 years ago so I don't exactly recall the part of the hinge assembly I removed but it worked without needing to compress the strut.

Lift the hinged second step - there should be a plastic bin to unscrew

Even though you are plugged in have you checked your chassis battery voltage. I believe your hydraulic pump is working off your chassis batteries and if your Big Boy is not working properly, your chassis batteries could be low.

Here are a few files that can help if you don't already have them. Check to be sure you have power coming out of the 30 amp circuit breaker on the FRB PCB#10.2007 Monaco Signature Wiring Diagrams (4).pdf2007 Monaco Signature Wiring Diagrams (4).pdf

If the keypad indicator light lights up indicating that the lights should be lit, then there is nothing wrong with the keypads. The problem is with the output module in the closet or the wiring to the lights. Look at the labels and find the one labeled for the keypad your pressing and see if the associated green indicator led lights up. If it does, that's telling you that the module is sending the output voltage to the light. If the indicator led lights and the fuse is good, then you likely have a wiring issue to the lights or, possibly a loose ground connection for the light circuits - is this on a slide out?

John, Thanks for the writeup - I included it in our files.

Not sure how the 2013 Diplomat electrical system is setup but if the voltage is fluctuating between 13.6 and 13.1, and the engine is cold, this is likely due to the engine intake grid heaters cycling on and off. I've noticed this on startup for a few minutes on my ISL engine.

The biggest concern on a chassis multiplex coach is that when you bring it to a shop for any service or repairs, the shop does not either plug it into shore power or shut OFF the battery disconnect switches if the coach is going to sit awaiting repairs. If a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coaches sits for days on the lot with the battery switches turned ON, you run the risk of the house batteries slowing going dead and damaging the multiplex dash switch modules. These Eaton E-30 dash modules can't be powered at less than 4 VDC for more than 5 minutes according to the Eaton spec sheet. I just recently repaired 3 damaged dash switch modules on a coach that sat at a repair shop and the batteries went dead.