waterskier_1

Tom, I think I've figured out the confusion regarding the 2005 Dynasty Wiring Diagrams (With an Intellitec House Lighting System) 1.0.0 located in the group files. I'm not sure why the Cover Page shows 2005, but if you look at all the drawings that had changed from what you are calling the "early" or "previous" 2005 Dynasty, under the DESCRIPTION box, you will see the comment "RELEASE FOR 2006 MODEL YEAR". These are, in fact, Model Year 2006 Dynasty (and in come cases other models) drawings. They are NOT for model year 2005 Dynasty. I don't know when a "model year" changed for Monaco, but that is really immaterial. Whether the 2006 Dynasty came out in 2005 or 2006 calendar years doesn't make any difference to which set of drawings should be used. I would suggest these drawings be annotated as having an incorrect Title Page and are indeed 2006 Dynasty drawings. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

There is a lot more going on than what I posted. First, the we need to understand that the Inverter/Charger only knows the power that is connected to it. Since we have many other things that are not connected to the Inverter (i.e., Air Conditioners, Water Heaters, AquaHot, Absorption Refrigerators, Block Heaters, etc.) the inverter can't manage those loads. When I wrote the above post, I was speaking only to what the inverter knows. That why I specifically stated "OUTLETS" when describing power loads, and never mentioned A/C loads. The manual states this: Note it says it will "back off the battery charger to reduce ... " It does not shut is down, unless those loads exceed SHORE Max setting. It's not a OFF/ON bi-state device. If we consider an "active" coach (vs one is storage, for example), then we also need to recognize that the SHORE Max setting doesn't see things like A/C's. It doesn't matter that you set the SHORE Max to 20 Amps, and then try to run the A/Cs along with other outlet loads (i.e., the microwave) on the inverter, you'll likely trip the Shore Power breaker if you are connected to 20 Amps. The inverter can only see what runs through it. It can't (and won't) adjust the battery charger when the A/Cs come on. This also doesn't take into account the Intellitec EMS Load Shedding circuitry that some of the coaches have. That works based upon (as far as I know) only sensing 50 Amp input, or not. The "not" could be 30 Amp, 20 Amp or even 15 Amp shore power. The Intellitec EMS only know 50 Amp Shore (or Gen) input or "Not". As you can see, the SHORE Max setting does little if you are operating several other AC loads that the inverter can't "see", such as A/C's. Our coaches require a certain amount of Power Load awareness on our part. I'm not sure why the battery charger would perform any differently when on shore power vs generator, with the same SHORE Max setting, and the same loads on the inverter. The Inverter can not know what the actual shore power capability is, and change based upon changes in the shore power capability. If it could, there would be no need to have a SHORE Max setting - it would know it already. -Rick N.

Corrected my typo. I think we are in agreement.

There appears to be some confusion on the SHORE setting. All this setting does is change how the battery charger operates. The inverter continuously monitors the AC power going to the Loads (what you have plugged into the outlets and turned on) and the AC power going to the battery charger. So, for example, if your batteries are needing to be charged, and you set SHORE to 20 Amps, if nothing else is consuming power (nothing plugged into outlets is turned on) then the inverter circuitry will allow max charging (around 10 - 12 Amps input to the charger to get 90-110 Amp battery current). But as soon as you turn on something pulled into an outlet, the inverter circuitry will automatically subtract that current from the SHORE setting, and the result will be allowed to go to the battery charger. So, in this example, if we start the microwave, which might take 15 Amps, that amount will be subtracted from the 20 Amp SHORE setting, and only 5 Amps will be allocated to the battery charger (around 45 Amps battery charge current). All this is independent of what the actual coach shore power is capable of ( as long as it is over 20 Amps). If the shore power is only 15 Amps, for example, and we try to use the microwave (15 Amp load) and the inverter is set to SHORE 20, then it will attempt to allow 5 Amps to the battery charger. But that will exceed the shore power capability and something will trip (likely the shore power circuit breaker). Now the Charge Rate setting does limit the amount of charge to the batteries, it is not designed to be used when you have a low (i.e., 20 Amp or 15 Amp) shore power connection. Yes, it can be used for that, just like a brake can be used to keep a car from going too fast, but it is better to let off the accelerator pedal. The main purpose of this setting to limit the battery charger, regardless of the shore power availability. One reason you may want to do this is because your batteries can not accept the full battery charger current (for example, you have only a single LiFePO4 battery rated at 100 A-Hrs and a rating of max charge/discharge of 50 Amps). The charger may be able to supply 100 Amps, but that would overload the batteries, and the internal BMS would shut down all charging. Another reason you might use this parameter is if the ambient temps are really high, and the air flow is poor. You don't want the battery charger to overheat and shut down. I personally recommend setting it at no more than 90% - 95% for this reason. You'll not likely notice the difference in charge time, but the charger will run cooler. Note that the Charge Rate setting is completely independent of the shore power. Hope this helps understand the difference between these two parameter and the correct usage of each. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ Yes, if you have turned OFF the battery charger. He is the description from your manual (assuming you have a Magnum Inverter/Charger). -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

It's reading the voltage of your engine alternator. Yes, it's normal. - Rick N Casa Grande, AZ

Tom, I have a PDF file of the Wiring Diagrams that was sent to me by Dave Pratt. I am traveling right now and don't have the bandwidth to upload the 130 MB file. I'll be home in a few months, and can send it off then. I have the original printed copy of the Wiring Diagrams also. But they are not as complete as I would like. They don't cover the Detroit Diesel interface module, but again Dave Pratt was able to send me a wiring diagram that helped. I don't think Monaco was complete in their distribution of the files. A 2005 Dynasty with the Multiplex system is news to me. I did through (I thought) research and what I found was that they brought out the Multiplex system for only the Sig in 2005, then the Dynasty and Exec got it in 2006. I wonder if the files are mislabeled? And then there is always the question of when a model year begins and ends. If you need the PDF soon, you might have Frank ping Dave for it. I'm pretty sure he's kept all his file on his 2005 Exec even though he sold it. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

Monaco incorporated Multiplex in the 2005 Signature. Then in the 2006 Dynasty & Exec. That is why I have a 2005 Exec. -Rick N

I agree with Richard. But note that you will have to individually bypass both relays. I would also disconnect the purple wire and tape it. This only is the coil or signal wire, but there is no need to waste energy energizing the relays after they are bypassed. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

As others have mentioned, your coach has TWO Battery Cutoff (aka Salesman Switch Relays) as shown in RED on the markup drawing attached. You can check the voltage on the two heavy cables attached to each of the relays to ground. If it varies by more than 0.02 volts, you have bad contacts within the relay. Each relay controls different 12 Volt components of the coach. Another thing to check are the Battery Disconnects shown in BLUE. These are also problematic and the same voltage test described above can be performed on these switches also. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ 2003 Dynasty High Current Print_rn.pdf

FIXED. Thanks for catching this, now a new topic. You really should start a new thread (post) when changing the subject and not what some call "Hi-Jack" another's post. It will also provide greater visibility to other readers who might not be monitoring this old post. That said, the coach is wired such that when you unplug from shore power or gen, one of the outlets no longer is powered. This is done for two reasons. First, the original absorption refrigerator was designed such that when the AC power to it was interrupted, it would automatically (if set) switch to propane and keep the contents cold. The outlet that does have power when on the inverter was put there so the ice maker function would continue when on propane. Second, the power consumed by the refrigerators AC Heater used when on AC power is quite considerable, and would be more than most would want drawing down their batteries, when propane could have been used. Now, you say that when you remove the shore power, your refrigerator beeps, it sounds like (not knowing the brand or model number of the actual refrigerator) that it is warning you that there is no AC because you have not selected "Auto" or similar for the refrigerator to switch automatically to propane. You say the GFCI does not trip, so lets not muddy the water by bringing that up (another reason for starting a new post). I'm not sure I understand you comment about all the outlets loosing power, just like the fridge, when you previously stated that if you moved the plug to where the ice maker is, it works, so clearly that outlet didn't loose power. Monaco generally put the refrigerator (main power - not including the ice maker) on it's own circuit breaker. There are likely other outlets (but not all) that do not get power when on the inverter so will not have power when the shore power is removed. -Rick N. Casa Grande, AZ

I'm not sure you got the answer to your question. That is an old technology controller, being PWM (Pulse Width Modulation). It is rated at 30 Amps and at 12 volts that would be around 360 Watts. So, to answer you question, as long as you stay below 350 watts, it would work, although inefficiently compared to the current MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) technology controllers that are now in use. The drawings for 2003 Dynasty (likely the same as for the Exec) show 12/2 wires from the panel to the "combiner" and then 8 gauge from the combiner to the controller and also out of the controller so it can handle 30 Amps. You could connect any combination of solar panels equal to 350 Watts to the combiner and be within the design spec's of the controller and the Monaco wiring. Note that this controller was like used because it has two outputs: the main one to the house batteries and a second to the chassis batteries. The second, Engine or Chassis is limited to 3 Amps though. I also found in the manual this interesting statement: "The RV-30D is much more than just a Solar Charge Controller. It has a very unique feature that comes into play when you are charging from a 120VAC source. At night, when your RV is plugged into Shore Power or you are running your Generator, the RV-30D allows the “Engine” batteries to be charged while you are charging your “House” batteries with an Inverter/Charger or a Converter!". I don't use this controller, so I can't vouch for the accuracy, of charging engine, chassis batteries while your inverter/charger is charging your house batteries, but I think Monaco had another way to accomplish this. -Rick N. currently in Casa Grande, AZ

I believe this was a problem with some Samsung bottom freezers and they ultimately provided a fix. I'm not sure if there was a formal recall or not. - Rick N Quartzsite, AZ

I would have to research the NEC and any local building code modifications to that. I'm quite confused with the term single phase 240 VAC. I have always considered the 50 Amp 240 that is supplied in the pedestal to be "split phase". If it were "single phase" you would not have 240 between the legs. You would have 120 leg to neutral though. This is similar to what the Onan generators in the 5KW to 8KW range supply. But the 10KW and 12.5KW generators have true "split phase" output yielding 240 leg to leg. This may be a terminology issue, but single phase does not yield 240 leg to let, split phase does have 240 leg to let. As far as the NEC not allowing this, the most common case is 120 Leg to neutral, and 208 leg to leg. Many "240 VAC" devices are rated "208VAC to 240VAC" which clears up the difference. I agree that a 240 VAC only device (load) would not operate correctly on 208VAC. But only some newer, high end (i.e., Prevost) coaches actually use 240VAC for dryers. I'm not aware of any using 240VAC A/C units, but they could be. -Rick N. Quartzsite, AZ

It's likely not your transfer switch - at least not the one between shore power and generator. If it were, you would not have power out to the microwave. You don't state if you have a dual input inverter, but I'm assuming you don't. I would disconnect the "Outlet String" with the GFI receptacle on it from the inverter itself. Then check if the inverter has 120 VAC out on that line. If do have 110 VAC at the inverter terminals, then you isolated the problem to the wiring or the GFI. Note that each manufacturer of inverters specify the GFI's that will work with that inverter. Look up in your manual and confirm you are using one of the recommended brand GFI. Report back the results and we can see what the next steps might be. -Rick N. Quartzsite, AZ

Resurrecting this old thread. Camping with another Monaco owner here in Quartzsite and he is having an issue with hot water pressure at all faucets. Cold water is strong, hot water no so much. Since it's at all faucets, and worked fine the first three weeks of his trip here, I'm thinking it's likely a check valve. I looked at the back of his water heater, which can be accessed from his rear closet. I only see the bypass valve and brass fittings. I don't see anything that looks like a check valve. Can someone describe in detail, or better, provide pictures of where this check valve is located? -Rick N Quartzsite, AZ

To bring this full circle, since I was the one who likely started the confusion and resulting discussion, I checked my Aquahot Installation Manual. I have an upgraded Aquahot 600D. This unit has two 2000 Watt Electric Elements. This is what the Aquahot manual states "Connecting the 120 Volt-AC Power: 1. Run two 12-2 ROMEX wires, with grounds, from two over -current protected (20Amp circuit breaker required) 120 Volt-AC power supplies, through the Aqua-Hot’s cable clamp fitting and to the appropriate terminal block" This is also what I have. So, Aquahot is okay with running their Part Number ELX-G12-07L 120 VAC/2000 Watt electric element on 12-2 Romex. Note that this is the only 120 VAC item in the Aquahot, the rest of the Aquahot runs on 12 VDC. FIY, this element from Aquahot sells for $43.20 (https://secure.aquahot.com/ProductInfo/ELX-G12-07L.aspx). Sorry for the confusion. -Rick N.

Ok, what I am understanding is the roof air conditioners both power on. This means that you are getting power through the transfer switch to the power panel. Forget troubleshooting the the ATS. Next, as Tom points out, the power goes through a 30-Amp breaker in the main poker panel. Ten to the inverter. Since you have power when the inverter is on, the 12-volt side is working. Most inverters nave a 30-Amp input breaker and one of two 20-Amp output breakers. Have you checker the 30-Amp input breaker? How the power is routed from the inverter is of no consequence, since it is working properly when in inverter mode. If i understand what you have said.correctly, the problem is between the power panel and the inverter, to include the inverter itself. Confirm you have 110VAC to the input to the inverter. - Rick N

First, before you get off on a tangent, do you have any AC inside the coach? Do the A/Cs power on, for example. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? I doubt that this issue has anything to do with the transfer switch. -Rick N Palm Desert till Sunday

Increasing the breaker size from 20 to 30 amp will require increasing all the wires attached (downstream) to the breaker from AWG12 to AWG10. Many don't realize that the job of the circuit breaker is not to protect the load, but the wires connected to the load. Proper design starts with determining the size of the load. After the load size is defined, then the wire size required to carry the load is determined. Then the circuit breaker is sized to protect the wire. Now before Tom jumps in and states that there are no "design" requirements for 110 VAC wiring in RVs, I acknowledge that. I am only describing proper electric circuit design in general. If one chooses to make an informed decision to not follow accepted design principals, that is up to them. I'm only attempting to help those who may not be aware of those accepted design principals. -Rick N

Or the lamp is burnt out

I believe this is correct for that part number. That alternator is not DUVAC and does not have provisions for an ALT-FAIL circuit. I'm traveling this morning, but I'll see I'd I have drawings to see if you need the ALT-FAIL circuit, which would connect to one of the 3 small studs on the back. - Rick N

Tom, Seems you are being a bit picky here. First, I clearly stated that "This is a general statement, and not directed at your specific inverter". I also stated "GFCI's" which encompasses GFCI Outlets (receptacles) and GFCI Breakers. The comment was not to address which the OP had, but why the inverter had to supply a ground when inverting. I do mostly agree on what you posted after the second paragraph, but that was not pertinent to the OP question on whether inverters supply their own ground or not. I tried to stick to the point in question without true, but impertinent details. I do have all those diagrams, but they only show the AC Inputs & Outputs, and the 12 VDC battery connections, and a ground connected to the inverter. They do not show the internal wiring of the inverter, which I think is what the OP was asking. You can not tell how the inverter reacts to the grounding when switching from AC IN (shore or gen) and Inverting mode. Again my response was in general as to how Inverters work, not how his specific inverter is wired inside, nor how the coach is wired to the inverter. If I interpreted the question wrong, I apologize. -Rick N. Apache Jct., AZ

Yes. Most do. To meet code, there can only be one place that neutral & ground are bonded together, and that is at the entrance. So, when on shore power the neutral form the shore power connection back to the entrance must be maintained (no grounding in the inverter). But when operating as an inverter, it now becomes the "source" and the neutral is grounded within the inverter. This is a general statement, and not directed at your specific inverter, but I'd be surprised if it didn't function the same. If it didn't, GFCI's wouldn't work when on the inverting mode. - Rick N

I'll just throw something out there. I don't have a multiplex system so don't know if it applies, but I suspect that more than just the Park Brake has to be set to enable the slide switches. Mine has to have all the bay doors reporting closed. It has to have the engine off. I'm not sure what, if anything else has to be satisfied before the system is enabled. Might not be applicable. -Rick N.

I have had Dish Network for over 22-years. I would not, at this time, trade it for streaming, simply because the only internet service provider that would begin to work as many places as my Dish is Starlink, and that costs about $60/month more than my Dish, which is more than the basic, since I use it at home also. It costs me $0.00/mo more to use my Dish in my coach. All I have to do is take my Bedroom Hopper (Receiver) out and plug it in the coach. Then, when I travel outside my "locals" area, I call Dish and tell them where I am. In 15-minutes, I am up and running there, with all the Network & Local channels, in addition to the "cable" channels. Now, remember, this is "free" in my coach because I subscribe (around $100/mo for two Hoppers, Med Channel plan, including 9+ DVR recorders). I'm guessing it would be around $80/mo or slightly less for a basic Dish account for the coach only. You could still purchase a Dish antenna for your house and take the Dish receiver in there, if you wanted. Compare that to around $150/mo for Starlink, plus you need to have a streaming plan. I don't know what they cost, but I've seen some for around $5.00/month, but that is for just a few channels, less if you don't speak spanish. So I think most have several streaming services. I've not looked into this because I don't need it. And I currently don't have unlimited data which would be a must if you watch much HD TV. The low price plans don't have DVR (the ability to record the program to view later) either, but you can purchase hardware, or possibly Cloud storage for some recordings. I've gotten so I almost never watch "Live TV". I record everything, if for no other reason than I can skip commercials so a 1-hour show only takes 40 minutes to view. I've had Dish Antennas on different motorhomes for over 20 years. Long before HD was available. I had a simple crank up, manual air, one satellite antenna, which I upgraded to an "in motion" antenna (the round domes of the past). When HD came out, Dish had an upgrade kit for the 'in-motion" antenna, but Direct TV put their HD on a different microwave band which made it impossible to get with an "in-motion" antenna. All the in-motion antennas could only lock onto one satellite at a time. Back then, Dish had three different satellites, and I think Direct TV did also. The wasn't a problem for most of us. At that time, few had DVR-enabled Receivers (Dish strictly prohibited use in a mobile environment because it would damage their hard drive), so that wasn't a real concern. But soon people wanted to watch different shows, on different satellites, at the same time (husband one TV and wife or kids another). The only way that is possible is with a mult-feedhorn antenna. Many of us used home antennas, mount on a tripod and manually aimed. But Winegard, and others, found a market for these and the Trav'ler was born. There were versions for both Dish Satellites and Direct TV Satellites. I'm not real familiar with the Direct TV Trav'ler, but it was (and I think still is) convertible to Dish Network, but the Dish Network Trav'ler is not convertible to Direct TV. Don't know why. Over the years, both Dish and Direct TV have changed satellites, and the "coding" to identify the satellite that the automatic aiming controller need has changed, sometimes significantly. I know I updated software in my "in-motion" antenna several time, one to include hardware too, to make it HD ready. This is usually done by downloading a file, putting it on a USB Thumb drive, and then putting that USB drive in the controller and initiating an upgrade. But there have also been some hardware changes that yield some antenna versions incompatible. Sometimes this is done to force a purchase of a newer antenna. The only real way to tell if your Trav'ler is software updatable is to call Winegard, as Tom recommended. Sometimes Winegard requires you to return the whole antenna and control box for the upgrade. I did this only once, when I was on my way to the maintenance session in Goshen, I stopped at the factory in Iowa. I sold the coach with that antenna, and put an RF Mogul Eagle3 on my current coach. I think the performance is the same, but RF Mogul allows you to send the bad part in for a replacement, which Winegard prohibits. They don't sell repair parts, you have to remove the antenna from the roof and send the whole thing in, in most cases. In summary, if you currently have Dish Network, I believe the answer is clear. If you don't, you need to weigh the costs/benefits of streaming including internet access, unlimited data, along with streaming plans. While streaming can be accomplished with a cell phone, it isn't ideal. and it only works where you have cell access. Dish just requires a clear view of the southern sky (in most of the USA). -Rick N.